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Help on camber kit decision

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miguelmcv

Supporting Member
2,717
255
May 3, 2009
Fresno, California
I have being rearing a lot about camber, toe and caster.

But, My question is.

The Adjustable Camber Kit will be enough to bring my car to spec?.

The reason why I am asking is, The guy who did my alignment told me that, even with the adjustable will bring the car to factory spec.

Here are the results of the alignment (Bolt numbers are not on Specs).

Front left Front right.
-1.3 Camber -2.1

-0.01 Toe 0.03



Rear Left Rear right.

-1.6 Camber -2.5

0-12 Toe 0.81



My car is low from the front only, the back has stock shocks and springs.

Now, I believe that, there are more then one kit, Here is a thread that mention 2 sets (on post #5),, they are taking about (+1.5* to +3*) and (-1.5* to +1.5*).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/366679-front-camber-needed.html

Which set should I get to fix my problem (front), Or do any of them will work?.


On the rear, Only the left side is on spec. But I will do both as well, Well, that's if the adjustable cumbers be enough to bring it back to stock...

I don't race or anything like that, This is my DD, so I just want to keep my tires as long as they can live, which I just bought them yesterday.

Please any Information will be appreciated.
 
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First off, toe is what kills tires - not camber. The shop should have been able to get your rear toe much closer to 0 than they did. The front looks good toe wise.

Secondly, that's a very large difference side to side. Are all suspension components in good shape?

As for what camber kit, just look at your numbers. You obviously want to have less negative camber, which means the kit you buy will need to be able to give you more positive camber. It will all depend on which kit you want as to what camber numbers you plan on running. According to the spec sheet from one of my alignments, front spec is -0.8 to 0.2. You'll just have to do the math and figure out which kit will get you where you want.
 
On the front left, I almost sure that any kit will fix that, which is only -1.3, But the right one is -2.1, so I don't know how much is that.

I really don't know a lot about alignment.

The Kit (+1.5* to +3*) means it adds +3?.

If it does, Then It might work, Because I need around -2.0 to bring down right?.

If I get -1.5 to +1.5, It means that I can bring -2.1 to -0.6?.

This thing is what I don't understand:confused:

Can you shine my day.

I forgot to mention that, I checked all the components and found that, the rear right left toe was kind of bad (ball joint).

Could the ball joint be causing all that amount of bad alignment?.

In front, I didn't see anything bad (all components are new).
 
To get both sides down to the spec I posted of -0.8, either kit would work.

-2.1 + 1.5 (which would max out the +/- 1.5 kit) = -0.6
-2.1 + 1.5 (which is the minimum of the +1.5 to +3 kit) = -0.6

The +1.5 to +3 kit would probably not be my choice as I don't see a need to go any closer to 0 than -0.6. I would say you can shoot for -1 on both front to keep camber conservative.


A bad ball joint could possibly be the cause of that much rear toe. I would definitely get it replaced and realigned, as you want toe as close to 0 as possible. That much toe in the rear will start eating the tires pretty quickly. Not sure how the alignment place was able to give you the car back with those specs as that's way out.
 
OK, so you are saying my best choice is -1.5 to +1.5 kit right?.,
If it is then I will go that route, which I don't know exactly how you guys do the math to figure it out.

Concerning the rear arm, I will replace it for sure.

Thanks for the help.
 
Yes, that is my suggestion.

Here's the math, so hopefully this will make it clearer.

While using the +/- 1.5 kit, this will allow you to add (+1.5) and subtract (-1.5) that amount of camber. By adding camber, you are making it more positive, which makes the wheel more vertical. By subtracting camber, you are making it more negative, which makes the top of the wheel lean in more.

So if you have -1 camber and you use the above kit, you can go from one extreme of -2.5 to another extreme of +0.5.

Starting camber = -1
One extreme (subtracting camber) = -1.5
Total adjusted camber = -2.5

Then you can apply the same math when going to the positive extreme. Let me know if this doesn't help and I'll try and think of another way to word it.
 
Yes, that is my suggestion.

Here's the math, so hopefully this will make it clearer.

While using the +/- 1.5 kit, this will allow you to add (+1.5) and subtract (-1.5) that amount of camber. By adding camber, you are making it more positive, which makes the wheel more vertical. By subtracting camber, you are making it more negative, which makes the top of the wheel lean in more.

So if you have -1 camber and you use the above kit, you can go from one extreme of -2.5 to another extreme of +0.5.

Starting camber = -1
One extreme (subtracting camber) = -1.5
Total adjusted camber = -2.5

Then you can apply the same math when going to the positive extreme. Let me know if this doesn't help and I'll try and think of another way to word it.


OK, I do understand the +/- 1.5 kit, allows to add (+1.5 and subtract (-1.5),
and going from -1 to +0.5.

But this would work perfect for the left front, But for the right front, is way more then -1.5,,,, It is -2.1, the way I understood how you did the math, It shouldn't -2.1 Camber will go only to -0.6? (-2.1 - +1.5 = -0.6).

Ho, I think I got it, from -0.6 to 0.4 are the specs.

So adding this kit will give me exactly the -0.6.:hmm:

I think I got it.
 
If you maxed out the +/- 1.5 kit using all the positive camber, you would end up at -0.6 for the front right corner. You're not shooting for 0 camber, which may be what's confusing you. I would suggest shooting for -1 camber in the front, or a little more on the negative side (possibly -1.5). This will make the car handle a bit better, but won't cause any excessive tire wear. However, the shop may not want to take your suggested settings, so you may be stuck going to what the specs are, which you'd be ok as you pointed out by the math.

The alignment sheet I have from a shop shows the specs for front camber at -0.8 to +0.2 - see the sheet below.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I saw that sheet when I search for my answer (camber adjustment), But I didn't know how to read it.

How ever, You were right when said that, I was confused thinking to bring down to 0.

Now I have all cleared out.

I search like 1 hour and read a lot, But I mean a lot, and to tell you the truth, I didn't learn what I have learned in this thread.

Some times reading with out knowing what you read takes you to no where.

Thank you for the patience and to spark my head.

I just reread your post and when you say -1 or -1.5 in front for a better handling, It means that my front left is almost there right (-1.3)?. So the one that needs to bring down is the right side, But just a little right? (-2.1).

Now, What you recommend for the back (This is my DD).
 
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