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Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

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They claim 1568 strands...I thought I read somewhere where that is fine?
 
IMO that's not the way you want to run the alt charging feed.. Too many things in the way before it gets to the battery to do the charging. The way it's setup there i think would cause issues with good voltage for charge and running as well
 
Where is the alternator in your diagram?
 
I got it.. put the battery, alternator, trans, block, head and other accessories in the trunk all together, ultimate weight reloaciton with battery included

sorry i'm being a smart ass, can't sleep
 
This is what I wanted to do.






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Ah, I see. Totally missed that part. Are you wanting to keep the car NHRA legal or no?
 
I got it.. put the battery, alternator, trans, block, head and other accessories in the trunk all together, ultimate weight reloaciton with battery included

sorry i'm being a smart ass, can't sleep

Just wondering if you have ever seen how a BMW is set up. Exactly how I have my diagram. One single wire from the battery in the back brought upfront to a distribution box and from there to every where it is needed. If its good enough for a BMW that costed prob 3x more then any talon did new then I think it is definitely good enough for some Japanese made stuff. IMO! Either way thought I thought that the alt wire goes straight into the fuse box and then from there to the battery, giving everything else power before the battery will get it.

Ah, I see. Totally missed that part. Are you wanting to keep the car NHRA legal or no?

No the car will never go to the track. SADLY
 
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Then your diagram looks just fine, but I would run a 0 gauge instead of 2 gauge to the starter, just a little bit less resistance.
 
2 guage works fine, it cranks really strong. I tried to atleast double the factory wire which was like 6 or 8 guage for the starter. I probably will go over to 0 guage now that im going from 90 amps to 200, but as long as you use quality wire and terminals/connectors (preferably solder on) with good heat shrink tubing,2 guage is fine, especially if your running under 100 amps. I actually just had a 4 guage wire from the factory alternator to the factory 100 amp in the fuse box which works great with an oem alternator or lower amp saturn alternator. Almost everything I bought pretty much came from these two places, except breakers and batt box. great products and prices knukonceptz.com http://delcity.net I found them from turbosax2's thread, I listed a link to his thread previously in this thread. as far as nhra, this is a street car, I have a 91 tsi for the track but if i wanted to make it legal all I would do is ad a switch on the rear bumper before the rear breaker and hook a line to a painless 250 amp relay on the alt wire and it would be legal. if you guys want to see pics of the set up let me know, it works great. Im just not sure what breakers to run 200 amp or 250 amp with the new alternator.

Just wondering if you have ever seen how a BMW is set up. Exactly how I have my diagram. One single wire from the battery in the back brought upfront to a distribution box and from there to every where it is needed. If its good enough for a BMW that costed prob 3x more then any talon did new then I think it is definitely good enough for some Japanese made stuff. IMO! Either way thought I thought that the alt wire goes straight into the fuse box and then from there to the battery, giving everything else power before the battery will get it.



No the car will never go to the track. SADLY


I rewired my friends fuel pump in his m3 and all i had to do was tap into the wire coming from the battery in the back to the front, it litterally looks like an oem version of the way I wired my car, but bmws also have many more welds throughout the unibody and are extremely better grounded than 2g's and even 1g's for that matter. My girl has a benz cls 550 and the battery is in the trunk too. the germans might be on to something
 
there are only a few ways to relocate a battery correctly. there's no reason why people should add how they did their hack job. instead they should make a tech article on how to do it the right way.

if i wasn't deployed i would do the in depth article explaining every step why you should do it a certain way and so forth.
 
2 guage works fine, it cranks really strong. I tried to atleast double the factory wire which was like 6 or 8 guage for the starter. I probably will go over to 0 guage now that im going from 90 amps to 200, but as long as you use quality wire and terminals/connectors (preferably solder on) with good heat shrink tubing,2 guage is fine, especially if your running under 100 amps. I actually just had a 4 guage wire from the factory alternator to the factory 100 amp in the fuse box which works great with an oem alternator or lower amp saturn alternator. Almost everything I bought pretty much came from these two places, except breakers and batt box. great products and prices knukonceptz.com Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies I found them from turbosax2's thread, I listed a link to his thread previously in this thread. as far as nhra, this is a street car, I have a 91 tsi for the track but if i wanted to make it legal all I would do is ad a switch on the rear bumper before the rear breaker and hook a line to a painless 250 amp relay on the alt wire and it would be legal. if you guys want to see pics of the set up let me know, it works great. Im just not sure what breakers to run 200 amp or 250 amp with the new alternator.




I rewired my friends fuel pump in his m3 and all i had to do was tap into the wire coming from the battery in the back to the front, it litterally looks like an oem version of the way I wired my car, but bmws also have many more welds throughout the unibody and are extremely better grounded than 2g's and even 1g's for that matter. My girl has a benz cls 550 and the battery is in the trunk too. the germans might be on to something

I would love to see some pics. Also I dont know which ring connectors to get (the size) I think it was like 5/16 for the circuit breaker and also the screw for the alt fuse in the fusebox. I also cant find the right amp circuit breaker, alt is 160amp only ones I find are 150 and 200 nothing in between, on summit and other audio places.
 
I'll put some pics up and the part numbers when I get home, takes to long on iPhone. I'm having lots of fun pulling my boat and jetski's out of the water to winterize and heat wrap so it won't be til later or in the morning.

the breakers are 5/16 stud and they work in fuse box also but you'll see in the pic you have to trim the one down to get it to fit, you need 3/8 for the alternator terminal. and yeah xscorpion, stinger and the no name brands go from 100, 125, 135, 150, 200, 250, 300 amp from my experience. I ran a 150 amp xscorpion for my factory alternator, im going up to 250 amp for the saturn 200 amp alternator. I made a plate to mount to since I don't keep anything in the cargo area, so I can see the voltage/amperage on the dist block and I can also reach the breaker from the drivers seat. I took a pic of my delcity invoice so you can see the part numbers and what I ordered.

there are only a few ways to relocate a battery correctly. there's no reason why people should add how they did their hack job. instead they should make a tech article on how to do it the right way.

if i wasn't deployed i would do the in depth article explaining every step why you should do it a certain way and so forth.

That was by far the most helpful post in this thread, the hack job with all high quality, high amperage hardware ran about 600$ and has over 14+ volts anywhere you touch a meter to with very low ground resistance. if you want to help great, if not put your 2 cents back in the gumball machine. The I'm right and everyone else doesn't know anything attitude is exactly what people don't want on here. plus if your so busy, why would you take the time to post a post saying you don't have time to post? This isn't a place to show off, well maybe alil bit but really to share information within the community. Members on here helped me and others through my relocation, turbosax2 went above and beyond with his tech article and jafromobile went as far as to make a video, read back you'll see the links you missed. thats why I'm trying to help.
 

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I'll put some pics up and the part numbers when I get home, takes to long on iPhone. I'm having lots of fun pulling my boat and jetski's out of the water to winterize and heat wrap so it won't be til later or in the morning.

the breakers are 5/16 stud and they work in fuse box also but you'll see in the pic you have to trim the one down to get it to fit, you need 3/8 for the alternator terminal. and yeah xscorpion, stinger and the no name brands go from 100, 125, 135, 150, 200, 250, 300 amp from my experience. I ran a 150 amp xscorpion for my factory alternator, im going up to 250 amp for the saturn 200 amp alternator. I made a plate to mount to since I don't keep anything in the cargo area, so I can see the voltage/amperage on the dist block and I can also reach the breaker from the drivers seat. I took a pic of my delcity invoice so you can see the part numbers and what I ordered.



That was by far the most helpful post in this thread, the hack job with all high quality, high amperage hardware ran about 600$ and has over 14+ volts anywhere you touch a meter to with very low ground resistance. if you want to help great, if not put your 2 cents back in the gumball machine. The I'm right and everyone else doesn't know anything attitude is exactly what people don't want on here. plus if your so busy, why would you take the time to post a post saying you don't have time to post? This isn't a place to show off, well maybe alil bit but really to share information within the community. Members on here helped me and others through my relocation, turbosax2 went above and beyond with his tech article and jafromobile went as far as to make a video, read back you'll see the links you missed. thats why I'm trying to help.


Thats pretty sweet. Also love the junction box with the volt meter on it. Deff have to get some of those instead. Also did you remember what size the bolt on the fuse panel was(5/16)? If I remember correctly on the 1g there is one fuse for the Alt fuse, on one side is the wire from the alt and then the other side is to the batt. Would running 2 say 4gauge wires to either side of the bolt from a junction box in the front work?
 
The knukonceptz stuff is tits. really high quallity. I think maybe 1/4 inch would work (not sure if they make them that small for 4 guage terminals) but I used 5/16 with out a problem. I switched the alternator 100amp fuse with the 60amp fuse to give me room. The alt wire is on the back side of the fuse panel, the 2 4 gauge wires coming from that distribution block go to the inside terminals in the fuse box, charging the battery and powering the car, the third output from the block goes to the starter. take a look at the diagram and then look at the pic. if you don't see it I'll label it for you.
 
The knukonceptz stuff is tits. really high quallity. I think maybe 1/4 inch would work (not sure if they make them that small for 4 guage terminals) but I used 5/16 with out a problem. I switched the alternator 100amp fuse with the 60amp fuse to give me room. The alt wire is on the back side of the fuse panel, the 2 4 gauge wires coming from that distribution block go to the inside terminals in the fuse box, charging the battery and powering the car, the third output from the block goes to the starter. take a look at the diagram and then look at the pic. if you don't see it I'll label it for you.

Yea I see it, I am prob gonna steal your whole setup only leaving out the rear distribution box. I will use my battery's side terminal to power the fuel pump. And I don't have an amp or anything like that. I think that's the best way without a kill switch, which would not be hard at all to add at a later time.
 
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yeah if your not worried about an amp thats fine. run the fuel pump off the breaker terminal though not off the battery, with a 30 amp fuse close to the pump. the breaker works both ways so if your battery goes crazy it won't smoke the wire up to the fuse for the pump.
 
Wow this thread has only brought more questions than answers.

This may seem OVERLY simplified, but my car for the moment is street driven. I'm just trying to get it on the road at this point. With that said, why won't this work?
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The three small wires are the 3 wires that are currently connected to the battery terminal. if I needed to extend or modify them they would be 4 ga. The power distribution block uses 0 ga inputs and 4 ga outputs. The big wires is 2 ga wire. I didn't think it would take much more thank that.
 
Wow this thread has only brought more questions than answers.

This may seem OVERLY simplified, but my car for the moment is street driven. I'm just trying to get it on the road at this point. With that said, why won't this work?
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The three small wires are the 3 wires that are currently connected to the battery terminal. if I needed to extend or modify them they would be 4 ga. The power distribution block uses 0 ga inputs and 4 ga outputs. The big wires is 2 ga wire. I didn't think it would take much more thank that.

It will work, however, I'd strongly recommend adding 3 in-line fuses between the distribution block & the 3 wires... Without them, you will not have any fail-safe if one of those 3 circuits has any problems. You can either use a fused distribution block, or in- line fuses off of the distribution block that you have pictured, as long as they end up with the same size of fuse rating that matches each of the 3 from the oem battery terminal/fuse block.

Also, be sure to upgrade the alternator wire to at least 4awg... It is possible to reuse the oem. 80 alternator fuse in the oem fuse block with some small ring terminals. At that point, you can just eliminate the white oem 10awg pair from the run.
 
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Here is my 1g diagram that I made up after hours of trying to figure out why the 2g guys run new wires to the distro block, you can keep the stock wiring from the 3MAIN fusable link box and just ring terminal the input side of the 3MAIN fusible link box and run it to the distro block, as this is why I was confused, as 2g guys don't have this main fusable block like 1g guys do, they only have the big one in the engine bay (for the charging/starting harness anyways).

This diagram is as accurate as I could think of, I based it off of Gofers' diagram as well. Hopefully this will avoid any confusion anyone had, I don't know why I was so confused about it but I was. So this is how it has to be.
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I'd run as big of wire as you can to the 3 MAIN fusible link box though, I am going to see if I can fit 1/0.

If you are trying to make it NHRA legal you HAVE to run the alternator wiring like this, as stated those 4 post killswitches with alternator protection do not apply for our application, the guy at pegasus tried to sell me it, and got in an argument with me (Pegasus is local to me) about how my alternator is going to die if I don't spend the extra 30$ with the protection, yeah right. Our alternators are grounded to the engine as our wiring differs from americanized wiring, which is why I believe we do not need to protect it with the 4 post killswitch. If you do not run a new wire to the killswitch from the alternator and leave the wiring as is the alternator will still give the fuse box power and make the engine continue to run even though there is no battery power from the battery anymore as the wiring is going from the alternator to the fuse box and then to the battery as opposed to being stock and having the wiring go from the alternator to the battery and then the fuse box.

Hope this makes sense, as I sometimes have trouble explaining things like this properly.
Thanks guys!

:dsm: Scott
 
Why is everyone stuck on Optima batteries? There are dry cell batteries that have 2x the cranking power that can be mounted an orientation.

There are some great info in this thread about the wiring needed for a rear mounted battery setup. I will be putting this to use when I move mine.
 
Optima quality has went downhill since they are made in Mexico, reps from Johnson controls have said so, however they do have a 5 year warranty, which no other company can beat, mine from 2006 still has 60% battery life on it, so I like it.

Will I buy one now? Probably not. I was just using the picture as an example!

And there will always be a bigger battery out there with more CCA, anything over 800 is overkill, no matter what, unless it's for a plow truck.

PS, optimas are dry cells, and can be mounted any orientation.
 
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