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pimpin81

15+ Year Contributor
524
0
Dec 14, 2007
bellingham, Washington
I need to get my car tuned, and I'm paranoid with anything that has to do with my car.This is the 4th motor Ive put in it in less then 10k, just bad luck I guess, I decided to go all out this time instead of getting crappy jdm engines. so i went 6bolt with a 50 trim, its been rebuilt and Ive put alot of extra effort into it this time . I need someone who knows how to tune properly as I live too far to bring my car to a shop with a good rep.


I can pay you for your gas and your expertise and above all I can learn from the experience unless you want to do it out of the kindness of your heart.. Any fellow DSMER's wanna take me up on that offer.

I'm no idiot but I dont want to take the risk. Let me know ASAP !
 
Do yourself and your car a HUGE favor and take it to the dyno @ PINA in Kent. I haven't calculated the exact distance, but it doesn't look like it's much farther than I go each time I want to hit the dyno (unless it's a rare fwd that I can do locally).
I have done enough remote tuning to do what you need done, but it's a huge pain in the butt for us both. Lastly, tuning a car in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear on the street puts you and everybody else on the road in a very real, very unnecessary risk. If you can't afford the dyno trip, I'm sure you can't afford to nor would want to pay for a car wreck or a life lost. Just take it to the dyno and spend $350 for a professional tune. You'll be happy you did.

Yep, 107 miles to Kent from your place. That's nothing. I go 138 and I don't find it a huge inconvenience.
 
Well i wanted to go there, but i wanted a street tune to get me there. I dont know if driving 107 miles on no tune would be a good idea.

I here exactually what your saying about the risks involved with street tuning. Im not looking for the perfect tune, just one safe enough to get me to Pina. :aha:
 
okay. I guess Might be a dumb question but how do i know if i have the stock timing map programed or not ? im assuming if i havnt messed with it at all i will have ..... Also im still willing to pay someone if they want to give me a street tune, id like to start driving it asap. But if it has to wait until i get it to Pina then i guess it has to wait..


So I've never had a car dyno'd before, Do they actually turn wrenches if they find a problem or whats the whole process and what will they do and what wont they do? Any info from someone who has delt with Pina before would be help full.
 
I need to get my car tuned, and I'm paranoid with anything that has to do with my car.This is the 4th motor Ive put in it in less then 10k, just bad luck I guess, I decided to go all out this time instead of getting crappy jdm engines. so i went 6bolt with a 50 trim, its been rebuilt and Ive put alot of extra effort into it this time . I need someone who knows how to tune properly as I live too far to bring my car to a shop with a good rep.


I can pay you for your gas and your expertise and above all I can learn from the experience unless you want to do it out of the kindness of your heart.. Any fellow DSMER's wanna take me up on that offer.

I'm no idiot but I dont want to take the risk. Let me know ASAP !

Hey, if you want it done right. Pony up the cash and take it to English racing, they are over by vancouver. The drive would be worth the peace of mind. I have built race cars for going on a decade. And they are the ONLY people I trust to touch my car. (I didn't have a tig welder when i needed downpipe fab work done so I took MY car to them for a 3 inch Vband downpipe) It's like 300 bucks but you won't have to worry about some monkey screwing it up. Aaron is sharp and either him or the owner will do it. Not some forum so called "Expert". They tune 1000hp evo's and shit and they know what they are doing with tuning.

EnglishRacing.net

safe tune is relative for the trip. You could have a safe tune, but if the AFR's are to rich or to lean you can load up the plugs and be stuck somewhere. I have had to rescue friends that had 10:1 "safe" afr's in cruise because the jackasses loaded up the plugs. Do boost leak check, base timing check etc before you think about going farther. Have fresh plug wires, plugs etc when your tuning.. and make sure you gap the plugs properly. I have seen way to many people NOT gap plugs and wonder why their car runs like balls.

For getting to your safe cruise map, dial in your injectors dead time for idle, and the fuel comp for getting your Fuel trims within +/-5 %. With your WOT pull check between 5000-5500 to see if your logged AFR is close to what the ecu is thinking the AFR is as a check to see where your at for dial in.

Send me your map for link and I will give it a once over. I assume no responsibility but I can give it a peek
 
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Hey, if you want it done right. Pony up the cash and take it to English racing, they are over by vancouver. The drive would be worth the peace of mind. I have built race cars for going on a decade. And they are the ONLY people I trust to touch my car. (I didn't have a tig welder when i needed downpipe fab work done so I took MY car to them for a 3 inch Vband downpipe) It's like 300 bucks but you won't have to worry about some monkey screwing it up. Aaron is sharp and either him or the owner will do it. Not some forum so called "Expert". They tune 1000hp evo's and shit and they know what they are doing with tuning.

EnglishRacing.net

safe tune is relative for the trip. You could have a safe tune, but if the AFR's are to rich or to lean you can load up the plugs and be stuck somewhere. I have had to rescue friends that had 10:1 "safe" afr's in cruise because the jackasses loaded up the plugs. Do boost leak check, base timing check etc before you think about going farther. Have fresh plug wires, plugs etc when your tuning.. and make sure you gap the plugs properly. I have seen way to many people NOT gap plugs and wonder why their car runs like balls.

For getting to your safe cruise map, dial in your injectors dead time for idle, and the fuel comp for getting your Fuel trims within +/-5 %. With your WOT pull check between 5000-5500 to see if your logged AFR is close to what the ecu is thinking the AFR is as a check to see where your at for dial in.

Send me your map for link and I will give it a once over. I assume no responsibility but I can give it a peek


Well i told the Andre at Pina that i want a safe reliable daily driver that halls ass, im not looking for crazy numbers here. Mabey thats where your friends went wrong .......? I talked to him for a while and he sounds like a straight up guy who's relly busy and knows what hes talking about when i comes to DSM's i tested his knowlage base a little and he passed .

Vancover is just way too far for me to trailer the car, i wouldnt mind having a second tune done later just to make sure its right, but for now my only option is Pina Motorsports. I dont have fat pockets so my options are limited. Ill shoot you my last logg so you can see the mess im dealing with . Car doesnt idle normally eathier.

Hey, if you want it done right. Pony up the cash and take it to English racing, they are over by vancouver. The drive would be worth the peace of mind. I have built race cars for going on a decade. And they are the ONLY people I trust to touch my car. (I didn't have a tig welder when i needed downpipe fab work done so I took MY car to them for a 3 inch Vband downpipe) It's like 300 bucks but you won't have to worry about some monkey screwing it up. Aaron is sharp and either him or the owner will do it. Not some forum so called "Expert". They tune 1000hp evo's and shit and they know what they are doing with tuning.

EnglishRacing.net

safe tune is relative for the trip. You could have a safe tune, but if the AFR's are to rich or to lean you can load up the plugs and be stuck somewhere. I have had to rescue friends that had 10:1 "safe" afr's in cruise because the jackasses loaded up the plugs. Do boost leak check, base timing check etc before you think about going farther. Have fresh plug wires, plugs etc when your tuning.. and make sure you gap the plugs properly. I have seen way to many people NOT gap plugs and wonder why their car runs like balls.

For getting to your safe cruise map, dial in your injectors dead time for idle, and the fuel comp for getting your Fuel trims within +/-5 %. With your WOT pull check between 5000-5500 to see if your logged AFR is close to what the ecu is thinking the AFR is as a check to see where your at for dial in.

Send me your map for link and I will give it a once over. I assume no responsibility but I can give it a peek


Well i told the Andre at Pina that i want a safe reliable daily driver that halls ass, im not looking for crazy numbers here. Mabey thats where your friends went wrong .......? I talked to him for a while and he sounds like a straight up guy who's relly busy and knows what hes talking about when i comes to DSM's i tested his knowlage base a little and he passed .

Vancover is just way too far for me to trailer the car, i wouldnt mind having a second tune done later just to make sure its right, but for now my only option is Pina Motorsports. I dont have fat pockets so my options are limited. Ill shoot you my last logg so you can see the mess im dealing with .

Car doesnt idle normally eathier. He said he can trouble shoot that no problem which is a big plus since im at a loss, at least know whats wrong there will allow me to be able to fix it .

Edit: your inbox was full so hopefully youll come back to this and see it

Heres the damage LOL
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=120065&d=1299728584
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ok, So it looks like you have a high idle surge. So you need to fix that before you get all happy on tuning. It's one of several things. The ISC motor could have an open pole, Boost leaks like a mother####er(fuel injector insulators, throttle body seals, bov leaking, intercooler pipes leaking, and intercooler core perforated). If you have a multi meter and i think 7mm nut driver you can test the ISC yourself (might need a helper to cycle the ignition on and off for the operation test of the ISC). You could save yourself some cash just doing that yourself and it will get you closer to the car running right. If your reasonably handy with a wrench and can follow instructions the Vfaq.com has instructions with pictures of most of that crap.

Also some things you want to log are Combined ft, ISC position, Maf raw, maf, bat volts etc so we can get a better idea of what problems you have.

ISC position should be around 30 at idle iirc. But the idle surge is caused by either the isc motor not working or to much airflow at idle. Does this happen all the time? or just when cold? (edit: noticed water temp went over 200 and it was still doing it)

btw cleaned inbox.

if your looking for power it wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild your throttle body or get a 1g throttle body and swap it after you rebuild it. If your not in a big rush since I have spring break this week/ next week I can get hot on rebuilding one for you. Probably just charge you for parts and the throttle body core (say 50 bucks for the core is what I would get if i sold it to throttlebodies.com) or if your hard up for cash / don't feel comfortable doing it ship me the throttle shaft seals/ fiav gasket etc and I will rebuild a spare that came out of my 2g (52mm is stock for 2g, 60mm is stock for 1g and is considered an upgrade in a 2g) Only thing you have to do is yank the 2g intake and port match it to the 1g throttle body.. great throttle response / max flow trick. Hell if you pay shipping I will port match the spare 2g intake I SHOULD have and you just send me yours back so i still have a spare. (feeling generous with my time at the moment) fyi the throttle shaft seals I just got are like 12 bucks, add throttle body gaskets and your looking at about 25 bucks for a leak free rebuild. If your ghetto you can use RTV but you risk long term air leaks a bit, not major but its possible. Your af/rev looks like its not to far off. Hell try screwing the BISS(base idle set screw) all the way in and do another log and see what happens.

Unless I missed something it looks like stock fuel tables, I can't say if your injector settings are correct but I would say that if your running like pte 680's then the fuel settings are close? The timing table doesn't look too agressive, but I question it in the mid range. I would need to see a wot log to tell where your at. Suggest getting boost sensor wired in to log, maybe wideband logged also. Then you almost don't need a dyno. *I do a lot of tuning on the track and finish tune on dyno*
 
Well i went a re-torqued all my intake manifold bolts what a PITA that was !! BTW i have 6bolt swap and im running the whole 6bolt long block and intake manifold and throttle bodie, everything has a new gasket .


Everything has been re-torqued since the engine has been warmed up due to heat expansion. the intercooler and piping is in unknown condition and i dont have a boost leak tester also no autoparts stores around here carry one let along know what one is .

The injectors are also a unkown but are 680's ive tryed deatime at 275 and 300 doesnt seem to make a difference as far as idle goes.

I think DSM link is giving false information on the coolant tempature, because the fans would be on constantly if the coolant was that hot also the gauge on the dash reads normal operating temp.

I bench tested the ISC every coil had 28 ohms approx, it was on my 2g i swaped it out because i knew for sure that it was good.

Ive tryed adjusting the Biss screw several times all it does is change the speed in which the engine osolates, slow osolation all the way in to fast osolation all the way out .

I do here the engine missing but without 850 rpms its almost impossible to set base timing. i was gonna use my 91 tsi put it in diagnositic mode and see where the timing is at 1600 rpms and copy that on my 2g.

I cant find maf raw to log it .

Idle holds seady until it warms up then it starts osolating . usually.

bov or intercooler piping is the only thing i could think of that could be leaking as the intercooler and piping is not brand new and it unknown condition, but even with that i should get the idle down below 1000 rmps no matter what i try to adjust the idle wont go below 1500.
 
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Well if you cant figure it out lets us know. I have dealt with Idle stuff on DSM for years and do pretty well at getting them smooth. Sometimes people spend to much time with the keyboard then really finding the problem.
 
She's fixed and ready to be tuned LOL. Timing was off a smig thats why it was chuggin , and i fixed the idle, i was running a coolant by-pass on the TB so i just needed to close the FIAV :ohdamn:, now she purrs like a kitten.

Still need a tune tho this time she's relly ready.
 
yeah you did, I'm glad it wasn't too. Just my stupid ass :p, ill pick you up on my way back from the dyno and take you for a ride . Sold my stock exhaust today to a guy in Cali, The money is gonna pay for my innovate wideband 02:thumb:


Thanks Lucas, your reputation precedes you btw, if i could drive it there safely i would. I barley convinced my uncle to go as far as Kent and he didn't sound too thrilled.
 
Boost leak testers are so you can pressurize your intake track and listen for air leaks/ spray joints with soap water so you can see bubbles. This is key, they can be made from home depot plumbing bits and a 1/4 male air compressor fitting. Make sure the air pressure going to your intake is regulated, air compressors are regulated to 90-120 psig which will kill most intercoolers etc. Check the Vfaq for how to make a blt tool.

more later
 
I would highly recommend you taking it to Luke and Aaron at English vs. going to anyone else. They are the best at DSM's I have seen with tuning. I wont be going anywhere else for mine. Just my 0.02. GL!!
 
If i could drive it there I would, but since i have to reli on someone to trailer it i have to go where there willing to go. And no one is willing to help me with a street tune...............:pray:

Besides look where i live !!
 
I Can help you with your tune now that you sorted out you other issues, Just send me a Pm... .
 
I can help you with a tune. I may be able to come to you this sunday and get you squared away. I have tuned my own car to 577hp. Yea English is a pretty good shop but it is so much more valuable to learn yourself. I can spend the day with you sunday and you should be pretty squared away on knowing how to tweak things. Give me a text: five 6 one 436 two eight eight 0
 
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