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Fp68hta 10.62@125

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FWIW I ended up building my cage from scratch. Used mild steel to NHRA spec 1 5/8 o.d. x .118. This was in an 86 rx-7 but I believe the dimensions and cage would be very similar.

Used a cardboard template for the "hoop" . Then took that to the chassis shop and had them bend it. THe rest was straight stock. All materials and bending labor were around $300. If your handy with a mig/tig and have the time it makes for a good winter project. If not the kits are the way to go IMO.

mild steel is heavier the moly and the dimensions are not similar. word to the wise if you are going to put a cage in a car that you will be going in and out of it is best to have one BUILT for your car so that YOU ,your SEAT, will fit perfect. moly is also alot easier to work with
 
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Sorry if I missed it, is this car running on gasoline?

Edit: went to Larry's profile, and it says he's on Ethanol. Larry, what are your 1150's IDC's looking like on your setup with this turbo right now?
 
mild steel is heavier the moly and the dimensions are not similar. word to the wise if you are going to put a cage in a car that you will be going in and out of it is best to have one BUILT for your car so that YOU ,your SEAT, will fit perfect.

I'm not suggesting that the dimensions would be interchangeable, but I believe the weight would be similar.
 
Sorry if I missed it, is this car running on gasoline?

Edit: went to Larry's profile, and it says he's on Ethanol. Larry, what are your 1150's IDC's looking like on your setup with this turbo right now?

Pump e85, 1150s are at 78% or so. Look at post 27. It says 81%
 
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The only reason a chromoly cage is lighter is due to the wall thickness. I believe you need 1-5/8" .083 wall for chromoly and 1-5/8" .134 wall mild steel. The are both types of steel and have similar weight per given volume. You can go with a thinner wall for chromoly due to it's greater strength.
 
FWIW I ended up building my cage from scratch. Used mild steel to NHRA spec 1 5/8 o.d. x .118. This was in an 86 rx-7 but I believe the dimensions and cage would be very similar.

Used a cardboard template for the “hoop” . Then took that to the chassis shop and had them bend it. THe rest was straight stock. All materials and bending labor were around $300. If your handy with a mig/tig and have the time it makes for a good winter project. If not the kits are the way to go IMO.




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little off topic but how do you like those seats?
 
little off topic but how do you like those seats?

They are very uncomfortable mounted rigidly as I have them. Any more than 30 minutes gets pretty uncomfortable. Replacing the driver side with a decent seat is on my "to do" list.
 
They are very uncomfortable mounted rigidly as I have them. Any more than 30 minutes gets pretty uncomfortable. Replacing the driver side with a decent seat is on my "to do" list.

hmmm....trying to find a decent seat that's light and still be able to use a harness easily. They didn't look very comfortable. I've got about an hour drive to the track so i'm wandering if i could just deal with it if they're light enough.ROFL Might start a thread to see what people use/like. Thanks man
 
I love my corbeau forza. I have done many trips with it. Its light, cheap and still comfy and movable. And still able to do the 5 point.
 
I read how the FP3575 turned out...
What is the setup that you will be running the next time you take the HTA68 out ?
 
Ya man the fp3575 turned out to be 12.8@130 with 2.7 60ft. It was awesome from a roll in first if I started at 5500 rpm is first. It was hauling from 30 to 130 like I have never felt before at 36 psi. But I couldnt spool above 4psi and it was a dog out of the whole SO back to 68hta for drag racing until nitrous.


So I just built an entire new engine for the 3575 because I didnt think the stock engine would like it.

I have 9:1 Wiseco HD, .220 wirst pins, manley turbo tough i beam rods, l19 head studs and arp main studs, I now have a stage 3 buschur head (ported, polished, ss oring, manley valves .5mm over), I have kelford 272 cams, fic 2150s, and all new oil pump, water pump, all pulleys, tensiorers, timing belt, ect ,ect.

So I am not on the stock engine anymore with the 68hta.

I am going to norwalk tomorrow to see if I can improve on the 10.61 time with the bone stock long block.

We will see the max of this turbo on my built 2.0l setup now. Everyone said I should add cams, so here it is. Cams, and new compression ratio, ect. I am still on a stock IM though.

To be honest I built this for the 3575 and high rpms of that. The 68hta is running out of steam in the high rpms and is already backing up a ton of back pressure and exhaust gas reversion at 33 psi. SO I fully believe this better flowing engine will yeild no better than stock results. There just isnt anywhere for the exhaust to go. It is chocking the engine with the small hotside.

I hope to gain a little or I will be pretty pissed that I was doing it all on the stock engine and why did I waste the money, but like I said I feel it wasnt a waste since I plan to run the 3575 all out on this engine. But the fact that I am back on the 68hta, I feel it was unnecessary to have a built engine or cams with this tiny turbo. But we will see if I do better or not. I hope I do.
 
The only update is that I still have the small 68hta 16g on the car and I am enjoying the great street ability. I havnt got money yet for a smim or direct port nitrous but very soon i will.

I have been going to norwalk every wednesday and doing bracket racing. I put the 2 step at 4500 and I run a 10.85-10.9 everytime. 4500 is low enough to keep me stil at the line and I can get great reaction times. I have got many 2 and 3rd places this year. I keep getting beat by a 19sec POS station wagon!!!!

I have also been killing bikes on the street on my street tires and a 4200rpm 2 step. I beat all kinds of new 600s, one 750, a turbo 600 and a 98 900cc. All from a dig. From a roll a 600cc 2007 r6, is almost dead even but a tad behind. But an awd auto car with 16g isnt made for high speed pulls from a roll.


And HELL YA I am going to be at the shootout running in DST!
 
Really wish I could've sold you the SMIM/TB man. Hope you get it all together and nitrous for that big turbo as well!

Plans changed and I will not be at the Shootout now. Money and new job demands took over my life.
 
Are you keeping the stock engine and 68hta for the shootout? Then switching to the built one for next year?

I have been running the built engine and new converter setup for months. I just had to put the 68hta back on the built engine. I had the larger turbo on but couldnt spool it without nitrous.

I never made a pass as fast as the stock engine/stock converter on the new engine and high stall converter.
Its been hot outside, I am only launching at 4500 on 2step due to needing to get good RTs, and I have new cams and a looser converter which I think are hurting it a tad.

My setup at the shootout is built engine (9:1 wiseco hd, manley turbo tuff rods, l19 head studs, arp main studs, bse, no oil squirters, ), stage 3 head (ported, polished, ss oring, composite gasket, 272 kelfords, kiggly springs, manley .5mm over valves), a sinjister speed 10in max stall converter, FP 68hta, 2150cc injectors, ebay fmic, ect).

I estimate I will run high 10.8s all day with great RTs if it is 85-90 degrees outside and if I launch at only 4500 on the 2 step.
 
Sorry I should have paid more attention..

I actually thought you were a different guy with the same color talon, running stock auto cams on a stock engine, with the 68hta..
 
Sorry I should have paid more attention..

I actually thought you were a different guy with the same color talon, running stock auto cams on a stock engine, with the 68hta..


I am that guy!! Not trying to be a dick but if you read a little deeper and not scan you would see what I did and what I changed since then. Its all in this thread.

If you read the thread it says that I switched setups a few months ago but the turbo was too large so on my built setup, I threw the 68hta back on.

It is all in the above posts.

I ran the 10.61 and 10.62 with stock auto cams, stock longblock with L19s, stock converter ect.

The post above yours says " I have not ran better with the built setup than I did with the stock".
 
Ya I usually go through the whole thread but this time I just felt like jumping in..If I would have read the whole thread I probably would have noticed..And probably would have ran into a couple of my own posts..
 
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