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seafoam works! [merged]

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cranky

Probationary Member
12
2
Nov 15, 2003
OhioUS
I have been using seafoam in heavy equipment engines for years and I have seen it make dramatic differences in performance and idle quality. I recently had a problem with low power from my 91 talon. It felt like the computer was removing timing. Normally what I do is find a secluded spot because you will smoke down your whole neighborhood. Start the engine and let it get up to opperating temp. I remove a vacum hose and put it in the can and rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and suck the can dry. Shut off the engine and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then start it back up and run it down the road, and run it hard. This will remove a substantial amount of carbon build up from the combustion chambers. :thumb:
 
I have pictures of what seafoam can do for your car. Give me a few minutes and I'll get them suckers up.

Before Seafoam and a bit of hard scrubbing while it was off.

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After seafoam:

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If this doesn't make you a believer, nothing will. Luckily these heads are sooooo easy to do that this only took me about 4 hours total.
 
i used it in my gas tank twice. it runs a lot better and i can feel the once lost horsepower again.
 
But is it really worth doing? Will it really make that much of a difference?

Seafoam is like the long lost and forgoten routine engine maintenance we should all come to know as something that should be saught after the same way we become picky about oil changes. All in all, YES it's really worth it and that's why you're reading this topic. I'm telling you from hands on experiance that it WORKS and YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE!

- DOHCTA
 
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yesterday I noticed a light ping noise coming from the intake side on my head. I bought a can of Seafoam engine treatment today, went through all the motions of using it according to the products directions of use and guess what...no more lifter tick. I gues I caught it before any major problem/s occured.

If you havn't Seafoamed your engine in the past couple of years. DO IT and DO IT NOW!

Here's how I did it on my 6 bolt swapped 2g.

1. 1/3rd of the *100% petroleum* into my intake manifold via the largest vaccum line that connects from the back of the manifold to the brake booster. (this takes two people as one needs to connect a funnel and SLOWLY pour the seafoam into the line while the other person keeps the rpm's above 2500 using the gas pedal *duh* DON'T TOUCH YOUR BRAKE PEDAL).

2. 1/3rd into the crankcase.

3. 1/3rd into the gas tank.

4. Let the car sit for roughly 20 minutes.

5. Then started it up and kept a steady idle of 3000 rpm. The white smoke wasn't nearly as bad as most videos that you would see on youtube, but it solved my lifter tick 100%. I did this for roughly 5 minutes and the smoke cleared. Then went for a long drive for approximately an hour.

Note: I started with less than 2 gallons of fuel in my tank and drove it until the light came on. And remember to always ALWAYS use a funnel when working with any fluids for your precious gem. And remember to change your oil shortly after using Seafoam as it may contaminate it.


Seafoam is my hero!

I don't think it's a good idea to be driving around with seafoam in your oil or once you've sucked it through your intake. You are just supposed to idle and let everything burn off. Read the vfaqs for MCCC http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
 
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I changed the oil when I got back from my drive. On the bottle of Seafoam, it mentions that when adding it to both your fuel tank and crankcase, it helps to remove moisture. I totally agree with you that leaving it in the crankcase for more than a day, may not be so good. But like I stated in the start of my post, lifter tick was present..and is no longer. Job well done Seafoam! IMO. Man I feel like I work for these guys or something LOL.
 
Im going to run a can through my car right now. Half a can into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and half threw the BOV vac line. I cant change the oil until morning though so it will have to sit. I guess I will pour it into the cylinders first...wait 15 min then start the vac process.

It takes a little bit to get the car started when doing this. I almost killed the battery LOL.
 
Im going to run a can through my car right now. Half a can into the cylinders through the spark plug holes and half threw the BOV vac line. I cant change the oil until morning though so it will have to sit. I guess I will pour it into the cylinders first...wait 15 min then start the vac process.

It takes a little bit to get the car started when doing this. I almost killed the battery LOL.

Results? :hmm:
 

It started right up after I let it sit for 15min the second time (after sucking it threw bov hose). I ran it down th road hard for about 10 min leaving a trail of smoke the whole time. Ill change the oil and plugs in the morning and see how it goes from there :).
Thanks for the instructions guys.
 
Anyone who has a carb'd motorcycle knows about seafoam. It will clean up gummed up carbs better than just about anything. I use seafoam in my gas if I know I won't be driving for a while (in the winter). Good stuff.
 
Just be careful when sucking it into the engine. I have used seafaom for the last 6 years in my Sentra. I noticed that the performance was getting crappier and mpg dropped about 75 miles again. I always use about a half a can in the engine via brake boost line. Well last night it stated raining as soon as I got the line in the can. It sucked it up way to quick. I turned the car off after it idled for about 10sec after sucking in the half. Then engine kept running with a horrid sound, and was spinning backwards! Knocking horribly too (timing chain). So I quickly grab the vac line and put my thumb over it like you would a diesel, nogo. Built up pressure and blew my thumb off the hose and sprayed myself and DSM with seafoam. Then the white 'seafoam' cloud started coming from the intake and vac hose...

It sounds like a long time, but this all was about 20 sec. Scared the shit out of me. I though I blew the engine to hell.

Well after it sitting for about 5 min, I started it. Ran fine. No issues. Great mileage and performance again.

The whole point of this essay was to make sure you don't suck the can into your engine in 10-15 sec flat...
 
Even though it says you can put it in oil... DO NOT EVER PUT IT IN YOUR OIL EVER, NOT EVEN IF YOU CHANGE THE OIL AFTER.

The problem is even if you change the oil, it's in your bearings... it stays there... you'll end up tearing them to heck..

It's ok to clean the intake while running, with no compression leaks, or damaged rings etc..don't let it sit anywhere... it'll melt plastic...and corrode soft / yellow metals. another reason it should never touch the inside of any motor.
 
Even though it says you can put it in oil... DO NOT EVER PUT IT IN YOUR OIL EVER, NOT EVEN IF YOU CHANGE THE OIL AFTER.

The problem is even if you change the oil, it's in your bearings... it stays there... you'll end up tearing them to heck..

It's ok to clean the intake while running, with no compression leaks, or damaged rings etc..don't let it sit anywhere... it'll melt plastic...and corrode soft / yellow metals. another reason it should never touch the inside of any motor.

You know the cap is plastic on the can right? Also, I use an existing rubber line for over 6 years with no issues...

So nothing to worry about as long as you follow the proven directions...
 
I used a Can a few months back. 1/2 in my oil and 1/2 in my gas tank and it got rid of my rough idle problem, plus a slight increase in gas mileage
 
Even though it says you can put it in oil... DO NOT EVER PUT IT IN YOUR OIL EVER, NOT EVEN IF YOU CHANGE THE OIL AFTER.

The problem is even if you change the oil, it's in your bearings... it stays there... you'll end up tearing them to heck..

It's ok to clean the intake while running, with no compression leaks, or damaged rings etc..don't let it sit anywhere... it'll melt plastic...and corrode soft / yellow metals. another reason it should never touch the inside of any motor.

I've used seafoam in MANY MANY engines with it never eating the bearings. What can happen is it thins the oil out and gets the crud broken down and then people keep running that oil.

When adding it to your oil, do not run it for very long. The thinner oil is not well liked so just do yourself a favor and change it soon after adding it.

If you've used good quality oil for a long time and you keep it changed, then there is no need to use this in the oil.
 
I think I may actually use this stuff at 180,000 miles. I have around 205-215 compression across all 4 cylinders and I'm getting occasional random misfires. I'm thinking it might be the carbon buildup.
 
I wonder if someone put seafoam in your car without your knowledge you would notice a difference? I used to help my old neighbor put seafoam in his focus we would pour it in the intake let it run for 10 seconds then shut it off for 15 minutes. When we would drive down the street it would dump out a thick cloud of white smoke and my buddy would always say its carbon coming out. If it was burning carbon wouldn't it be black?
 
I've used Seafoam in many cars. Ford's, Toyota's, DSM's, etc. I've alwyas been pleased with the results. But the Seafoam does make oil thinner so I wouldn't recommend driving for long periods of time or with heavy loads.

And there is a threat of hydrolock. Especially with NA engines. Seafoam is a liquid, liquids cannot be compressed, end of story. I call BS on the old comment of "Spraying a hose in the intake without damage" or that you would have to "put the intake hose in a bucket of water" to get hydrolock. Follow the directions on the can and you won't need to worry about hydrolock.
 
This stuff is awesome. I use it once a year on all my vehicles.
 
I did this on a VR-4 I once had through the vacuum line, and watching it smoke was half the fun. I never thought of sucking it right out of the can though, rather than trying to funnel it in slowly, which was a bit of a biyotch. I'm due for an oil change and I'm half tempted to try it on the new eclipse.
 
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