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2G 2g SPC Upper A-Arm replacements discontinued

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Well, I've had my arms on now for 1.5 years and I just received some bad news. The car is getting aligned as I type this and I got a call saying there is a lot of play in the upper balljoints. I wasn't sure what to believe as they're supposedly going to outlast my car.:rolleyes:
I went down to investigate and sure enough there was LOTS of play in the passenger side and a growing problem on the driver's side. Lucky for me I had the spares in tow and handed them over so I could feel safe when driving...which brings me to my next gripe. They were going to charge me 1hr labor for each ball joint! I tried to explain that it is literally a 5-10min job and seeing as I did the original installation myself, I would know. They weren't too keen taking my word for it but we decided that 1hr for both sides was more reasonable but I still wasn't that pleased. But I am paying for the luxury of not taking the car home, doing the work and bringing it back so I guess it sounds more fair as I type this.

To sum it up! Mine failed EARLY. Check your balljoints and install them yourself before you get an alignment!
 
Sucks to hear....

As well, I spoke with the guys at SPC in person at the PRI show in December, and I discussed the availability of replacement upper control arm ball joints for the billet arms. They were completely suprised when I asked them about it, and were adamant in saying that they had them in stock and were baffled as to why or how they could be out of stock of a product that is commonly used.

Personally, I am very skeptical about it after this thread, but the company seems to believe that they are still being produced and in stock.

Either way, I am going to need another set sooner or later....
 
From what I was told they dont make the arms anymore, but they will continue to offer replacement ball joints. I had one go out also, but it was cause the boot popped off from the crappy spring clip holding it on.

Now I have them held on by safety wire double wrapped and twisted tight. Its not going anywhere now so hopefully theyll last longer than 2.5 years this time.
 
Since the 720361 are no longer available, is there a different balla joint I can use with my spc arms?
 
I directed you to the thread, but you didn't read it.

Just call SPC and explain.

Thank you for directing me to this thread. I have read this thread. I was subscribed to this thread before you directed me to it. I called spc, I am local to spc. I talked to a guy at spc. He told me they no longer offer any parts for the arms I have.

So once again my question is, does anyone know of a differnt ball joint I can use with my spc arms?
 
Sorry to come off that way.
Unfortunately there are currently no other suitable replacements. I've explored other options with their tech department.

These arms can be pretty expensive paperweights, eh?
 
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Some one need to pin down what exactly is special about the ball joints for the dsm arms. Is it the spacers, pin taper, overall length, upper stud size etc. SPC has a ton of very similar units out there. I'm sure with some real digging there is an alternative to junking the arms. Sure it may mean custom building spacers or change the taper of the ball joint interface but that's not that hard.

Kevin
 
The way the slot is cut and how it attaches to the arm. I will call spc back to confirm
 
Some one need to pin down what exactly is special about the ball joints for the dsm arms. Is it the spacers, pin taper, overall length, upper stud size etc. SPC has a ton of very similar units out there. I'm sure with some real digging there is an alternative to junking the arms. Sure it may mean custom building spacers or change the taper of the ball joint interface but that's not that hard.

Kevin

I agree, I had a rep look into it. He called back in 2 days to say he hadn;t found a good match that could be woprked with. I'd have liked to be able to sift through the inventory myself.

He did mention that Honda/Acura style balljoints come remarkably similar. If it weren't for all these
"stock" photos floating around it might be a little easier to do this from a keyboard.

SPC may have taken their drawings of the arms down, I'll see if I can find them.
 
Just talked to Jeff at spc. They have 7 ball joints for our cars left. I bought the last set of anchor bolts tho. Jeff said their are no other ball joints that will fit the aluminum arms without a bit of modification. But I just bought a set of the correct ones. Get them while their hot!
 
Interesting, while I've had no trouble when I call, it seems it really does depend on who you talk to.

The 370z/g37 arms, 72130, appear to use a balljoint that looks suitable. Would of course have to see one in person though.

The spindle nut area does look a little strange. Also, if hardware is an issue we can always transfer the caster plates etc over to the new ball joint. Assuming all it needed was a "quick fix".
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

G35/350z equipment:
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This one gives a far better angle on the ball joint:
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Just talked to Jeff at spc. They have 7 ball joints for our cars left. I bought the last set of anchor bolts tho. Jeff said their are no other ball joints that will fit the aluminum arms without a bit of modification. But I just bought a set of the correct ones. Get them while their hot!

Keep your old eyelet bolts. You could easily have a set of poly bushing made to go in them and they would work better too.
 
Pieeyedpiper. Sorry for being a little biatch. I was frustrated, I called spc last week. Explained my situation with needing new ball joints and anchor bushing. Guy told me they discontinued them. So I took his word serious. But today when I called them again I got a differnt answer. I actually spoke with two differnt people at spc. Both of them told me that any other spc ball joint will not work with the aluminum arms without modification.
 
Good stuff . . . So anyone brave enough to snag one of those 350Z balljoints and do a comparison?

If any of you are interested in a set of arms and extra anchor bolts, hit me up. I'm done with mine.
 
What's the story with the anchor bolts? I didn't realize they'd ever need replacement. Mine are still shiny and new looking.

And indeed they may be! But I had the 'luck' (?) of my bushings (black rubber part) separating from the anchor itself. Not sure if that would negatively affect anything, but that's what happened to me . . .

Would've been nice to see if Energy Suspension has a bushing that would fit in there :)
 
And indeed they may be! But I had the 'luck' (?) of my bushings (black rubber part) separating from the anchor itself. Not sure if that would negatively affect anything, but that's what happened to me . . .

Would've been nice to see if Energy Suspension has a bushing that would fit in there :)
How did they separate? I was under the impression that they were already separate. I did, however, make the mistake of not lubing up the bushings pre-install. They squeak over speed bumps but that's it.

Can anyone with spare anchor bolts take some dimensions?
I have strange inner tire wear with an alignment of -1.7* camber and 0.0* toe. I run high tire pressure but his might be why it's only on one tire.
 
How did they separate? I was under the impression that they were already separate. I did, however, make the mistake of not lubing up the bushings pre-install. They squeak over speed bumps but that's it.

Can anyone with spare anchor bolts take some dimensions?
I have strange inner tire wear with an alignment of -1.7* camber and 0.0* toe. I run high tire pressure but his might be why it's only on one tire.

No, the rubber definitely is not separated from the anchor new . . . if it was, the installation instructions would not specify attaching the anchors to the arms at a 90* angle. After the rubber separates, the anchors pretty much spin freely around the rubber, so achieving that 90* angle would be impossible. But like I mentioned, I'm not *sure* this is a terrible thing, because there is that same effect with replacement poly bushings (the spinning)

My guess is they separated due to the a-arm contacting the fender well . . . no idea what kind of forces were generated when that would happen.

And what kind of measurements are you thinking you need?
 
Take your old anchor bolts and get the dimension you need for poly bushing then give prothan and enery suspension a call and see if they have a bushing that fits are comes close. Have the bushing turred down to fit would not cost that much at all. You could also talk to Adam(black_gst) about producing replacement bushings. I think it would be a great upgrade for the arms. Not sure why they didn't make them that way to begin with.

Kevin
 
I don't have a problem with that but it's significantly more work for me to dismantle my arms than it is for a member with spare parts laying around to get the dimensions of the bushing.

No, the rubber definitely is not separated from the anchor new . . . if it was, the installation instructions would not specify attaching the anchors to the arms at a 90* angle. After the rubber separates, the anchors pretty much spin freely around the rubber, so achieving that 90* angle would be impossible. But like I mentioned, I'm not *sure* this is a terrible thing, because there is that same effect with replacement poly bushings (the spinning)

My guess is they separated due to the a-arm contacting the fender well . . . no idea what kind of forces were generated when that would happen.

The bushings may well be bonded to the center pin but I was under the impression that we had red poly inserts already in there from SPC. The instructions called for removal and greasing of the bushings and then to tighten up hose pins/bolts when the arm is at 90* or the vehicle's rideheight. Sounds like they want them to spin?
 
I don't have a problem with that but it's significantly more work for me to dismantle my arms than it is for a member with spare parts laying around to get the dimensions of the bushing.



The bushings may well be bonded to the center pin but I was under the impression that we had red poly inserts already in there from SPC. The instructions called for removal and greasing of the bushings and then to tighten up hose pins/bolts when the arm is at 90* or the vehicle's rideheight. Sounds like they want them to spin?

They should not rotate. They are bonded like the OEM units and rely on the rubber to twist and distort. I'm 99% sure they didn't use poly. At least not in he units I had. You know I might actually have a drawing of the anchor bolts some where. Let me look.

Edit: Here is is http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/320763-spherical-bearings-2g.html
Kevin
 
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Thanks for the drawing, that's perfect. I'm still trying to remember what I saw back in 2008 or whatever when I installed these. I may investigate replacement bushings prior to dissassembly and just replace whatever I find in there since it's my daily driver.

I figured the distortion of the rubber was dependent on how tight you snugged up those bolts that go through them - not that I'm arguing, I'll defer to the goblin gladly, but if the bushings were bonded to the inside of the anchor bolts then how would SPC expect them to be removed for lube? I'm probably just being thick. Can we all agree, at least, that the bushing was red? :D

Also, who all lubed theirs prior to installation? Any bushing noise? Long-life? Shortened life? Excessive dirt build up?
 
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