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637whp and 499wtq on the stock 1g 6 bolt motor

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What's surprising to me is how the Mitsubishi metal head gasket has been holding up. So I guess I could go this route over a felpro metal gasket then. Nice. I think Buscher and a lot of guys use the Mitsubishi metal gasket on their EVO's.
I am hoping that 1 jay fuel pump with the 2150's will be enuff. I want to rev to 9k and all my fuel lines are upgraded from tank to fuel rail in my
2g.
 
I like how all these people who have never even touched a dyno are experts on how to properly and accurately dyno a car.

If you have any experience with high hp cars on the dyno, I mean cars that make real power, not these 300-400whp turds, you'll know that on a DSM 4th gear pulls on the dyno repeatedly = exploding 4th gear. I saw it happen dozens of times 10 years ago, before people knew as much about how weak 4th gear was in comparison to 3rd.

Most cars unless they make a lot of power 3rd is fine. 4th gear takes forever to rev out on slower cars and puts un-needed beating on a not fully tuned yet vehicle. The dyno will still read "accurately" because the gearing is factored into the calculation, whether it's 1:1 or not, doesn't matter. If it's a dynojet it'll calculate the proper gearing and calc horsepower accordingly. If you're on a mustang, dd, land and sea, etc, then you input it either through RPM sync or directly, depending on the software and how you want to run it. SAE, STD, etc, is all a wash. It's accuracy changes from car to car, NA vs turbo, etc. I've personally tested back to back on days when there were large weather changes cars with zero changes, to see the accuracy of the corrections. STD was actually usually most accurate for turbo cars where SAE was closer to accurate for NA cars. But it still varied and none was really what I'd call close (perks of having a dyno at your disposal on a daily basis - get to test theories like this)

Also you guys trying to bicker about what gearing is in the different gears are doing it wrong - you have to factor in final drive, etc, not just gearbox ratio

These threads always crack me up because you got the 1 guy that's actually used a dyno doing his thing while 99 clueless people tell him how he should be doing it because some equally clueless guy on the internet told them it was that way. But what do I know anyways, I've only dynoed a couple thousand cars...

Good Job OStar I can't believe you all haven't put a better intake manifold on that thing yet (first post says stock??? haha)
 
Okay, let's make a rule for this thread. Unless you personally make more power on all the stock parts like this guy has, don't be telling/suggesting to him what he should be doing. Lol.

If I have to read one more thread though about the whole dyno thing, I'm gonna shoot myself. I'd much rather know more about the car. Afr's, timing, etc. But of course he's on meth so it wouldn't apply to me because I don't have access to the stuff anywhere near me. What i'd like to see is a high horsepower car like this on pump gas. Which is basically what i'd be having to do.
 
Haha +1 on the last few comments. Ostar, nice job man! Making us DSM'ers proud of our stock blocks! HighPsiTsiGuy, way to stick it to 'em, people need to sit down, shut up, and take notes from the people with proven knowledge and experience with these cars. If you are running around in your stock ESI telling people on the internet that Cometic is the only way to go for true high horsepower cars then Shut up. Shawn brown used the MLS headgaskets on every motor he every put on the laser and very rarely ever blew a HG. You dont need $160 dollar HG's to make true power in these cars, you just need to know what your doing.
 
Fernando, thanks for the link to the website. Hopefully you got my message yesterday about my awesome bank issues. Give me a call when you get a chance.
 
What's surprising to me is how the Mitsubishi metal head gasket has been holding up. So I guess I could go this route over a felpro metal gasket then. Nice. I think Buscher and a lot of guys use the Mitsubishi metal gasket on their EVO's.
I am hoping that 1 jay fuel pump with the 2150's will be enuff. I want to rev to 9k and all my fuel lines are upgraded from tank to fuel rail in my
2g.

To be honest with you I was using the oem mitsu composite till about 3 months ago and it saw 37 psi and when I took it out it had no signs of letting go. I went ahead and switched over when I installed the new springs and valves to the mitsu metal which to my experience is all you need. The composite was holding up but I didnt want to continue pushing it. I would put the mitsu oem metal Ceedawg. :thumb:

Also the 2150's and one jay pump was good till about 620whp but I was only revving to 7700 rpm at that point. With the higher revs I think I would have ran out of pump if trying to rev to 9k on the single pump. It will depend on your setup but with mine that is what I was able to push out of it.

Fernando, thanks for the link to the website. Hopefully you got my message yesterday about my awesome bank issues. Give me a call when you get a chance.


No worries! :thumb:
 
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what are your thoughts on oem vs felpro?

if you ran 37 on a OEM composite, then a felpro composite should be fine under 30. right?


If you dont mind me asking, what torque did you use for the studs back when you were on the composite?

Thanks
 
Also the 2150's and one jay pump was good till about 620whp but I was only revving to 7700 rpm at that point. With the higher revs I think I would have ran out of injector if trying to rev to 9k on the single pump. It will depend on your setup but with mine that is what I was able to push out of it.
Now I tried going back thru the posts to see what kinda fuel you were using. Was it E85 or Q16 and did you log your AFR's? I'd love to see them .:thumb:

Whatever fuel your using and the whp your making at 7700rpm's is impressive enuff!

Chkd your profile I see you are using E85 thanks:thumb:
 
what are your thoughts on oem vs felpro?

if you ran 37 on a OEM composite, then a felpro composite should be fine under 30. right?


If you dont mind me asking, what torque did you use for the studs back when you were on the composite?

Thanks

yes it should be. With a safe tune and a well put together setup you should be fine.:thumb:
 
since i saw your thread about what you can do with de stock block i decide to push my new set up to the limit to see if i can reach 600awhp.with a stock 6 bolt in good shape and a t4 6265 precision
now at 30psi but wanna try 35-38psi also have water/meth.

i am from montreal i come on this thread some time sorry for my anglish i normaly speak french LOL
 
I like how all these people who have never even touched a dyno are experts on how to properly and accurately dyno a car.

If you have any experience with high hp cars on the dyno, I mean cars that make real power, not these 300-400whp turds, you'll know that on a DSM 4th gear pulls on the dyno repeatedly = exploding 4th gear. I saw it happen dozens of times 10 years ago, before people knew as much about how weak 4th gear was in comparison to 3rd.

Most cars unless they make a lot of power 3rd is fine. 4th gear takes forever to rev out on slower cars and puts un-needed beating on a not fully tuned yet vehicle. The dyno will still read "accurately" because the gearing is factored into the calculation, whether it's 1:1 or not, doesn't matter. If it's a dynojet it'll calculate the proper gearing and calc horsepower accordingly. If you're on a mustang, dd, land and sea, etc, then you input it either through RPM sync or directly, depending on the software and how you want to run it. SAE, STD, etc, is all a wash. It's accuracy changes from car to car, NA vs turbo, etc. I've personally tested back to back on days when there were large weather changes cars with zero changes, to see the accuracy of the corrections. STD was actually usually most accurate for turbo cars where SAE was closer to accurate for NA cars. But it still varied and none was really what I'd call close (perks of having a dyno at your disposal on a daily basis - get to test theories like this)

Also you guys trying to bicker about what gearing is in the different gears are doing it wrong - you have to factor in final drive, etc, not just gearbox ratio

These threads always crack me up because you got the 1 guy that's actually used a dyno doing his thing while 99 clueless people tell him how he should be doing it because some equally clueless guy on the internet told them it was that way. But what do I know anyways, I've only dynoed a couple thousand cars...

Good Job OStar I can't believe you all haven't put a better intake manifold on that thing yet (first post says stock??? haha)

Thanks !! Yeah I just have this thing about breaking the stock block record using the stock intake manifold (if I ever run 9's) but I have a shiny JMF Drag sitting on the sidelines ;)

since i saw your thread about what you can do with de stock block i decide to push my new set up to the limit to see if i can reach 600awhp.with a stock 6 bolt in good shape and a t4 6265 precision
now at 30psi but wanna try 35-38psi also have water/meth.

i am from montreal i come on this thread some time sorry for my anglish i normaly speak french LOL

I started this car just for fun and started pushing the limits on it and man I am super excited about how well it has performed. I am sure you can reach that goal you have in mind. Just do your research and you should be fine.


Ostar, you know your doing something right when you have so many haters on your ass.:thumb:

It really sucks that it has to be that way but it is what it is :toobad:
 
Thanks !! Yeah I just have this thing about breaking the stock block record using the stock intake manifold (if I ever run 9's) but I have a shiny JMF Drag sitting on the sidelines ;)
Dude push that damn mani to the max,I wanna see if you can get into the 9's with it!!!!!:thumb: Don't give in yet!!:hellyeah:

Also I'm wondering if the old HKS 272 setup could have possibly got you there. Guess it does not matter now.;)
 
Dude push that damn mani to the max,I wanna see if you can get into the 9's with it!!!!!:thumb: Don't give in yet!!:hellyeah:

Also I'm wondering if the old HKS 272 setup could have possibly got you there. Guess it does not matter now.;)


Don't worry im gonna try my hardest to get into the 9's before the shootout and take the car out there.

The 272's got me to the 10.29 and they are a proven cam to get into the 9's but the Fp's made my powerband stay up after 8k rpm which is what I was after. I need to go to the track and see where we are now.
 
except stage 3 shep trans, do you still have a stock ,tranfert case,axles,driveshaft,rear end ?

thanks to take time to reply i apreciate it !! your car is nice good work.
 
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Cool project. Shows what time well spent can achieve with a DSM.

Its a shame so many cluttered this thread all up. Really shows

A. People can't read the original posters post
B. People can read half of the original post, then add in their own, " they thought they read" info
C. Clearly should be setting down their own wrench set and back away from their own DSM.
 
except stage 3 shep trans, do you still have a stock ,tranfert case,axles,driveshaft,rear end ?

thanks to take time to reply i apreciate it !! your car is nice good work.

other than the 4 bolt rear end everything on the car is stock
 
Ok, duty cycle is currently at 70.29% @ 37 psi.
Me, as the tuner, decide in what gear i'm tuning a car, and that depends on a lot of factors, mainly gear ratio, power levels, etc. If people were familiar with how a dyno (which is just a tool to optimize performance) works, would understand this.
Timing, well, the only thing i can tell you is every car wont use the same timing values, many factors dictate this, that's why you need to do some "tuning", find mbt, and decide what margin of error you can set, which i believe is the main reason why this motor is still in good condition.
As far as engine compression, i'm pretty sure it's 7.8:1, last time the head was pulled they look like it and the motor behaves like it.
Hopefully the fuel system issues will be resolved soon and we can do some track testing which in my opinion is more important. However.....the car does run like it's got the power, scary thing for a stock block.
 
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Thats some pretty good high number but i bet they would be higher in 4 pull but pretty good man keep it up bro let us know what you planing to keep those number or go up with the stock engine.
 
Impressive my buddy is a honda nut and this article convinced him to put a forsale sign on it and buy a dsm!

the op is a honda nut as well and i convinced him to get a dsm and look at it now LOL good job on bringing new people to the dsm world hehe
 
To be honest with you I was using the oem mitsu composite till about 3 months ago and it saw 37 psi and when I took it out it had no signs of letting go. I went ahead and switched over when I installed the new springs and valves to the mitsu metal which to my experience is all you need. The composite was holding up but I didnt want to continue pushing it. I would put the mitsu oem metal Ceedawg. :thumb:

Also the 2150's and one jay pump was good till about 620whp but I was only revving to 7700 rpm at that point. With the higher revs I think I would have ran out of pump if trying to rev to 9k on the single pump. It will depend on your setup but with mine that is what I was able to push out of it.




No worries! :thumb:


Did you have the head and block resurfaced when you went to mitsu metal gaskets? To a mirror finish like it requires.
 
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