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Fp68hta 10.62@125

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FP sells a few o2 housing options for their FP30 housings:

2.5" with gate dump
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP Custom 2.5" SS O2 Housing for FP30 Turbo

3" with gate dump or recirculated
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP Custom 3" SS O2 Housing for FP30 Turbo

New cast one, not listed separately on their site, only shown with their package
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 3176HTA Turbo Package Sale



Well see the thing is that I am on the fp68hta turbo. It is the stock style 7cm2 housing and it is using an evo3 with just a billet wheel. I need an o2 housing that fits the vband tial on that. I was just showing a pic of my other turbo that I have never installed to show which tial gate I have. I already have a downpipe and dump tube for my FP3575 but I am not using that turbo and maybe never will. I was just showing which gate I want to install on my 68HTA.

This is the one I need right?

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts



This is what is on there now. NOT the 3575. Except I cut the dump tube off the o2 housing, welded a piece of sheetmetal over it and then cut a small hole in it.
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Here is a shot of the log from link for those who dont have it and want to see boost, timing, ect at 7k in 3rd gear.

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54lbs/min on the 68hta?? that is insane...great little sucker
 
54lbs/min on the 68hta?? that is insane...great little sucker

Take that with a grain of salt, he's running speed density, so Lb/Min is just a calculated value that gets all fudged up due to "how" you tune the car.

What is impressive is 33psi of boost pressure at 7000rpm! I can't wait to see the comparison once a set of upgraded cams go in this motor instead of the stock automatic tiny cams. That will be a great back/back comparison that should show if the boost drops significantly due to increased top end flow.
 
Well see the thing is that I am on the fp68hta turbo. It is the stock style 7cm2 housing and it is using an evo3 with just a billet wheel. I need an o2 housing that fits the vband tial on that. I was just showing a pic of my other turbo that I have never installed to show which tial gate I have. I already have a downpipe and dump tube for my FP3575 but I am not using that turbo and maybe never will. I was just showing which gate I want to install on my 68HTA.

This is the one I need right?

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts



This is what is on there now. NOT the 3575. Except I cut the dump tube off the o2 housing, welded a piece of sheetmetal over it and then cut a small hole in it.

Sorry about that, completely misread your post and thought you were asking what o2 housing options you had for the 3575. I'd stick with the o2 housing you already have and just weld the gate flange onto the dumptube hole, why spend money on basically the same thing again?

The only thing I don't like about most of the tubular 2.5" o2 housings for DSM style turbine housings like yours is the steep cut on the main entry. It's got to KILL flow out of the turbine. I used to have a really nice FP tubular o2 housing that had alot more radius to it, wish they still made it but I think the one they sell now is just an ebay type that they re-sell.
 
No kidding!OMG That is very impressive indeed. What a kick ass turbo!:hellyeah:

My gut tells me if he put a set of 272* HKS cams in the motor he would see 2mph more at the traps, see significant top end power gain, and see the boost pressure drop off to 26-27psi at 7000rpm.
 
Take that with a grain of salt, he's running speed density, so Lb/Min is just a calculated value that gets all fudged up due to "how" you tune the car.

What is impressive is 33psi of boost pressure at 7000rpm! I can't wait to see the comparison once a set of upgraded cams go in this motor instead of the stock automatic tiny cams. That will be a great back/back comparison that should show if the boost drops significantly due to increased top end flow.

Yea I wouldnt count on the 54lbs/min but with the speed density I do have boost est and my map sensor pretty much even, so I think it should be pretty close to accurate lbs/min in most of the log although i dont believe the 54 lb/min peak.

I believe on stock cams it will hold even more. I was holding 43 but in the high rpm there was too much back pressure in the little 7cm2 housing and I was getting exhaust gas reversion and running pig rich and stalling.

But if I got my external on and kept upping the boost I think I could hold more.

English racings boost gauge is pegged over 30 in his video (like mine is at my 33psi) and he is on 272s. So with stock cams I think I could hold more than 33.

Where do you get vband flanges? I could weld my own no problem if I can find a mild steel one. I have a basic mig welder.

video @ 40 sec

http://www.youtube.com/user/lucasenglish#p/u/27/ciV-WUlEKAs

Here is a log at 43.9 psi @5600 when I was at test and tune the day before with the completely closed wastegate passage. The highest airflow was 57.7 (relative to my 54 @ 33 psi) SO I dont think it would have ran better that high andit wasnt even making it through the gear without being pig rich. But I think I might be abe to push maybe like 35 psi and maybe gain a little. I dunno.

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That car is just badass man and its gives me a ton of motivation! What size of slicks are those? And how is the clearance running stock struts?

24.5x8x15 MT ET DRAGS on 15x8 rims. I have 4.5 in backspacing on the rims. They clear the struts perfect. I think 5.5 backspacing would work great but may (i doubt it tho) require a tiny spacer to clear the fronts.

S and W racecars has mild steel or chromoly cages/roll bars. If you go with a mild steel cage, make sure you go with DOM tubing and not EWS tubing. Page Title Race Car Dragster Chassis, Roll bars, Cages, Suspensions, Parts

Are these kits pretty good? The chromoly one says 500 which is not too bad. I just found out I have access to a welder and welding machine to weld heli arc tig and he is pretty experienced. It would save money but I dont know about a pre made kit. As far as DOM, are all there chromoly kits DOM?
 
24.5x8x15 MT ET DRAGS on 15x8 rims. I have 4.5 in backspacing on the rims. They clear the struts perfect. I think 5.5 backspacing would work great but may (i doubt it tho) require a tiny spacer to clear the fronts

im a little lost on the offset you have listed here... :confused: do you know what the - offset is in mm.??
 
I don't have any first hand experience with the cages but have heard that they're not too bad. I believe all the chromoly cages are DOM (Drawn over mandrel). The DOM tubing is basically seamless. The welded welded seams on EWS tubing can split in a wreck. As far as I know, EWS doesn't pass tech.

4.5in backspacing on an 8" wheel should be about a +12mm offset give or take a few mm.
 
24.5x8x15 MT ET DRAGS on 15x8 rims. I have 4.5 in backspacing on the rims. They clear the struts perfect. I think 5.5 backspacing would work great but may (i doubt it tho) require a tiny spacer to clear the fronts.



Are these kits pretty good? The chromoly one says 500 which is not too bad. I just found out I have access to a welder and welding machine to weld heli arc tig and he is pretty experienced. It would save money but I dont know about a pre made kit. As far as DOM, are all there chromoly kits DOM?
go with a chromoly cage and the kits fit like balls....i know first hand
 
SO the kits are shit? I assumed so. I have someone I am going to have do it custom for 1500 soon.
The backspacing is the measure from hub surface to inside edge of rim. It is so much easier to measure than offset and backspacing is what really matters. All the racing rims like at jegs and summit are all measured in backspacing. You can use a calculator online if you Really want to convert it to offset in mm. But if you measure in inches how much room you have from hub to hitting suspension, that seems easy to me to be able to find the correct backspacing.

Here it is for ya cody.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/att...-back-spacing-rims-cant-find-offset_chart.jpg
 
SO the kits are shit? I assumed so. I have someone I am going to have do it custom for 1500 soon.
The backspacing is the measure from hub surface to inside edge of rim. It is so much easier to measure than offset and backspacing is what really matters. All the racing rims like at jegs and summit are all measured in backspacing. You can use a calculator online if you Really want to convert it to offset in mm. But if you measure in inches how much room you have from hub to hitting suspension, that seems easy to me to be able to find the correct backspacing.

Here it is for ya cody.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/att...-back-spacing-rims-cant-find-offset_chart.jpg
$1500 for just a cage ?? that is alittle high.

cage - painted - seat bracket on cage - harness bracket on cage - swing outs - goes for $1100.00 to $1300.00
 
Show us your dump hole! :D But seriously, what diameter hole are you using. I'd like to make interchangeable cover I can swap out for different boost levels. Neat idea BTW.... Sweet ride! :hellyeah:
 
Ill try to get a pic but I used a small cutting wheel to grind a hole so it is not a circle, therefore hard to get a diameter. I will get pics tomorrow. I am going back to the track, norwalk that is.
 
Ill try to get a pic but I used a small cutting wheel to grind a hole so it is not a circle, therefore hard to get a diameter. I will get pics tomorrow. I am going back to the track, norwalk that is.
What is your timing at? And is your car 2600lbs with you in it? with my e316g I actually lost 3mph going from 24psi to 28+psi. I just used 3 additional heavy springs on my actuator and unplugged source line to the WG. I was guessing this was due to excessive duration cam and tons of back pressure/reversion. Maybe I have other issues. Congrats though thats great MPH!
 
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I have a s&w cage in my car. This kit came prebent and notched. you only have to do a couple cuts and notch it on two bars depending on how you want it. I highly recommend this kit.
 
FWIW I ended up building my cage from scratch. Used mild steel to NHRA spec 1 5/8 o.d. x .118. This was in an 86 rx-7 but I believe the dimensions and cage would be very similar.

Used a cardboard template for the "hoop" . Then took that to the chassis shop and had them bend it. THe rest was straight stock. All materials and bending labor were around $300. If your handy with a mig/tig and have the time it makes for a good winter project. If not the kits are the way to go IMO.

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