Mobil 1 syn 10w-30 good for temps under 20f? Oil pressure gauge question

[talontsiboy24]

My motor is a rebuilt 6bolt with around 32k miles on it..Do u think mobil 1 syn 10w-30 should be fine yr round i was thinkin to go thicker in summer time I wanted to bump it up to 15w-50 mobil 1 syn in summer time at least since i do get on it.

Im running a big 16g with moderate mods for now and the motor is pretty much stock but boost is 22-24psi and the car does see wot here and there and lookin at mobil 1 syn 10w-30 material data safety sheet i dont see anything about zinc or even the word zinc in it isnt that bad? what do u guys think?

As for now though its winter time so i wanna put the best in it for good startups but really good protection as i do like to boost in winter to.

 

[Black95TSIawd]

IF you're car is stock, stick to stock recommendations. If you're car is not stock and makes more horsepower than stock, you should consider a better oil. Certain weights and certain oils are only good for stock level combustion temps and pressures which in turn affects the tolerances on every other moving part in your motor. Its common knowledge that oils with high zinc and phosporous contents offer better protection in a performance aspect. So, if you have a high performance motor, please take care of it.

EDIT:: and if you're buying oil so that you won't have to change it for 10k miles, then you're already off to a bad start.

 

[joat09]

I been hearing nothing but good things about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic do u get any tick with it or burn off? Seems like its more for diesel though..

Here is the full details about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic what do u guys think better then mobil 1? http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

Appearance : Amber. Liquid at room temperature.
Odour : Slight hydrocarbon.
pH : Not applicable.
Initial Boiling Point and
Boiling Range
: > 280 °C / 536 °F estimated value(s)
Pour point : Typical -20 °C / -4 °F
Flash point : > 230 °C / 446 °F (COC)
Upper / lower Flammability
or Explosion limits
: Typical 1 - 10 %(V)
Auto-ignition temperature : > 320 °C / 608 °F
Vapour pressure : < 0.5 Pa at 20 °C / 68 °F (estimated value(s))
Specific gravity : Typical 0.89
Density : Typical 0.895 kg/m3
Water solubility : Negligible.
n-octanol/water partition
coefficient (log Pow)
: > 6 (based on information on similar products)
Kinematic viscosity : > 40 cSt at 40 °C / 104 °F
Vapour density (air=1) : > 1 (estimated value(s))

Yes, rotella is better, i said that in a post a long time ago.

 

[jrohner]

This is the same group on engineers that built the 2g 7-bolt. They also had emissions, and fuel economy issues to consider when they decided on 10w-30. Also, oil temps can get way higher than coolant temps in a turbo car. When you mod the car, and push it, 300* oil becomes a reality.

My racecar (asphalt circle track) would get well over 300&#176; oil temps even with a big oil cooler. I ran RotellaT 5w40 with no issues (with JB HD oil additive). The lowest RPM I ever got to under green flag was about 5 grand.

Running hard, you can only keep your oil so cool. At some point you just need oil that can handle (and is right for) the temperature.

 

[DSM1G90]

Okey, gonna step in here as a newbie on this one: Since I'm just a stock DSM owner and use Mobil1 10w30, I see these two brands that I never heard of: Rotella and Brad Penn-and users like these two brands very well.

.. what makes these oil brands so special since they carry the same weight as with some other more common named oils out there?

thx-DSM

 

[talontsiboy24]

My racecar (asphalt circle track) would get well over 300&#176; oil temps even with a big oil cooler. I ran RotellaT 5w40 with no issues (with JB HD oil additive). The lowest RPM I ever got to under green flag was about 5 grand.

Running hard, you can only keep your oil so cool. At some point you just need oil that can handle (and is right for) the temperature.

Yea but wouldnt that 5w show leaks more then a 10w would? be nice if rotella was 10w-40. I think 5w is to light for summer time even though u got the 40 in there and do u guys who use rotella see high rpms and wot in summer time with it? How about lifter tick at startup or anything strange? Do u guys see it better then mobil 1?

 

[1990AWD]

IIRC the first number is the viscosity when cold, and the second is the viscosity when warm. hence 5W30 is better for winter than 10W30 even though they share the same characteristics when hot.

 

[rich3389]

Yea but wouldnt that 5w show leaks more then a 10w would? be nice if rotella was 10w-40. I think 5w is to light for summer time even though u got the 40 in there and do u guys who use rotella see high rpms and wot in summer time with it? How about lifter tick at startup or anything strange? Do u guys see it better then mobil 1?

You should really do some reading up on how to read oil viscosity works...in 10w-30, it does not mean its a 10 weight, its means it protects as well as a 10 weight at 32 degrees but when hot protects as well as a 30 weight.
and a 5W-40 is actually thicker than a 10w-30.
Its also not all about the oil weight, its about the additives and its base stocks.

 

[talontsiboy24]

You should really do some reading up on how to read oil viscosity works...in 10w-30, it does not mean its a 10 weight, its means it protects as well as a 10 weight at 32 degrees but when hot protects as well as a 30 weight.
and a 5W-40 is actually thicker than a 10w-30.
Its also not all about the oil weight, its about the additives and its base stocks.

Oh i know that just saying that 5w will probably start leaking out places i dont wanna see ...but the 40 is better heat protection then 30.

 

[DSM1G90]

?.....leaks......? All this time you're worrying about leaks if running a certain weight of oil?

Brother! you definitely haven't been around the world of the automobile, for oil will find a way to leak out of anywhere no matter what under any type of condition and in liquid or vapor form.

..and this goes for any vehicle, both gas and diesel - from vehicles using a required 0w/20, up to a vehicle that has a customized motor using racing oil.

It's a part of life when you own a vehicle with a piston driven, internal combustion motor under the hood.

 

[knochgoon24]

I been hearing nothing but good things about shell 5w-40 rotella t6 synthetic do u get any tick with it or burn off? Seems like its more for diesel though..

I still get a little noise from the valvetrain, but I think the revised lifters helped more than the oil.

I also don't have any burn off issues either. My engine is actually healthy.

I was burning some oil before, but my compression numbers were good. So instead of just pouring in some snake oil or heavier oil, I actually FIXED the problem. New valve stem seals and I was good. If I get an oil leak, I REPLACE the leaking gasket.

I run the correct oil for the lubrication my car needs. I don't try to use my oil to stop leaks, or quite noisy lifters, or do other stuff it really isn't supposed to do. My engine has over 100,000 miles on it in my car. It was a used engine before it went in my car. The tolerances have probably grown a little looser in the bottom end. Plus I'm pushing a small16g pretty hard in my car. I need a slightly heavier weight oil.

The reason I chose to run the Rotella stuff is because of the higher zinc content. I plan to do an oil analysis on it after my next oil change just to see how it's holding up in my car.

 

[talontsiboy24]

?.....leaks......? All this time you're worrying about leaks if running a certain weight of oil?

Brother! you definitely haven't been around the world of the automobile, for oil will find a way to leak out of anywhere no matter what under any type of condition and in liquid or vapor form.

..and this goes for any vehicle, both gas and diesel - from vehicles using a required 0w/20, up to a vehicle that has a customized motor using racing oil.

It's a part of life when you own a vehicle with a piston driven, internal combustion motor under the hood.

Uhm no people have used thicker oil and saw no leaks then they go down below 10w and find oil leaking out of things is what i mean!

I still get a little noise from the valvetrain, but I think the revised lifters helped more than the oil.

I also don't have any burn off issues either. My engine is actually healthy.

I was burning some oil before, but my compression numbers were good. So instead of just pouring in some snake oil or heavier oil, I actually FIXED the problem. New valve stem seals and I was good. If I get an oil leak, I REPLACE the leaking gasket.

I run the correct oil for the lubrication my car needs. I don't try to use my oil to stop leaks, or quite noisy lifters, or do other stuff it really isn't supposed to do. My engine has over 100,000 miles on it in my car. It was a used engine before it went in my car. The tolerances have probably grown a little looser in the bottom end. Plus I'm pushing a small16g pretty hard in my car. I need a slightly heavier weight oil.

The reason I chose to run the Rotella stuff is because of the higher zinc content. I plan to do an oil analysis on it after my next oil change just to see how it's holding up in my car.

Yea i would like to hear about the analysis.

 

[Gs Dewd]

I will say this on oil. I actually do have some older cars in the garage. They have flat tappet, so they need high amount's of zinc (zddp) in the oil. With reading this it seems some believe we should be running it in our dsm's also. Well I went to several stores looking for oil that was high in zinc. I was looking for a steady supplier for it since I do tend to use it quiet often. As long as the oil has a "rating" of SL or older/lower it will have the high amount of zinc. Guess what I found? Just go to Walmart, Kmart. hell even Dollar General, and look for the cheapest looking bottle on the shelf. You know the poor people oil. Guess what it's rated sl. Perfect. I personally been using this "cheap" oil for several years in my old cars with no adverse effects. I have broken in motors with this stuff with no additives and it has done great. Flat tappet cams need the extra protection the zinc offers and this cheap oil does just fine. And if it works for these motors ( some I have built for customers are in the 500 hp range) it will certainly work fine for our cars. If your car is a track only beast and lives most of it's life in the high rpm end then maybe a different oil is for you. All the rest of us will never see a difference in our mostly low rpm street driven cars. This is just my opinion. I have never seen abnormal wear in a engine due to "bob" using a cheaper brand of oil.

 

[DSM1G90]

Usually, that cheap stuff is the re-refined oils, oils that didn't pass QC on the final pass and sometimes a non-detergent variety.

But can see the point in using it as a break-in oil since it's gonna come out pretty quick from the oil pan anywhos.

Racing motors love being flat tappet driven anyway-really gets the valve lift and duration high.

 

[Indian]

I have been using 20w50 for winter and summer. I wonder if I should switch to 10w30 since its normally around 30 degrees here in the winter.

 

[DSM1G90]

I wonder if I should switch to 10w30 since its normally around 30 degrees here in the winter.

... I would ....

... if you took your car to an area where it got any colder than 30 degrees with that "molasses" in the crankcase, it ain't gonna turn over .. period.

Trust me, I've been there and done that along with others that comes from a warm section of the union and go to where it really gets cold in the winter and they oil actually seeps past the oil filter gasket due to the oil has turned to syrup thickness.

 

[Indian]

Since its too thick for the cold,would it be scarring bearings at startup?

 

[talontsiboy24]

What about Valvoline Racing Synthetic vr1 is it better then mobil 1 synthetic u think? Mobil 1 10w-30 syn has a flash point of 230 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic 10w-30 has a flash point of 390? So i would think valvoline is better?

 

[yoshi_tony]

i was using 5w-30 on a new rebuild(check my mod list) and had knock on cold start up after 2k miles went drifting on the dirt and bamm small knocking so now im switching to 10w-30 after chinging my bearings

here on winter in gets no colder than 50 degrees

 

[yoshi_tony]

......

 

[dented_coffee]

It gets below zero here by the great lakes 50* is summer compaired to how cold it can get here .

I have been using some Mobil 1 products and after seeing and hearing some of the stuff I will never use it to even start a bon-fire .

BUT*
I have been running castrol syntec 5 w30 and a K&N gold oil filter in all of our cars and some have some very high miles on them.

OUR VEHICLES THAT ARE AND HAVE BEEN RUNNING CASTROL FROM DATE OF PURCHASE:
2000 chevrolet s-10 ZR2 142,347 miles < SOLD
2006 chrysler town and country 160,XXX miles
2005 dodge caravan 230,XXX miles
2002 kia optima se v-6 130,XXX miles
1994 eagle talon tsi awd unknow miles bought it with a rebuilt engine
1990 eclipse gst 135,XXX miles < PARTED OUT AFTER RESTORATION AND REBUILD
1993 eclipse gst over 280k origional miles < SOLD AND NEW OWNER USES SAME OIL AND STILL RUNNING SRONG

I have had very good luck I guess with running anything 5w or 10w. :KNOCK ON WOOD:

We daily commute with our cars. If your going to school, grocery shopping, going to the mall, ect.... then you should be just fine with. If your running higher hp levels then your engine sees more heat than normal then you should run the race oil of your choice.

If your driving any fully built car on the streets then your asking for your own trouble. The oil label even says not for street use. So If your car is built then its tecnically not a street car anymore now is it. So you would be running a race oil thats not made for street use and its prolonged stress needs. Everyone know that the more mods to a car shortens the life of it.

TO EVERY MAN HIS OWN!

 

[DSM1G90]

..got a friend who has a 1996 Chev Cavalier with 5 speed.

He bought it new and it now has close to 300k on it. He just use regular dino oils, but does the 3 to 4K oil change (5w/30) frequency very religiously.

No motor repair work has ever been done - all original... and still holds to 3k per quart usage.

Heard of a guy who had a '91 Eclipse GS 4G63NT. He lives in an area where it gets real cold in winter and hot in summers .. still has it and it has well over 400k on it. He also kept up with his motor maintenance (belts, rollers and tensioner) along with dino oil change frequency....still running strong ...

Thus, it even shows that regular dino oil changes, motors can last a life time ... and these two owners didn't worry on what oils to use for they knew which grade to use and stuck with it.

Motors are more tough that you think. Automakers knew what they were doing when designing motors for their vehicles.

-DSM

 

[JusMX141]

Thus, it even shows that regular dino oil changes, motors can last a life time ... and these two owners didn't worry on what oils to use for they knew which grade to use and stuck with it.

Not always the case. These engines were just designed well and had proper crankcase ventilation.

My mother's Lexus ES300 engine just locked up last week with 88,000 miles on it. I'm a maintenance freak, and ever since she bought the car at 17,000 I've used nothing but 10W30 Castrol GTX until recently when I learned that the 1MZ FE is prone to developing heavy sludge in the valve covers when using conventional motor oils because of the PCV routing. Toyota had designed the engine to meet Japan's emission standards....when the engine was released to the states, they had to redesign the PCV system to meet our emission testing. By doing so, they increased the temperature inside the valve cover to over 250*f, and dino oil begins to burn and sludge. The sludge clogs the PCV system and accelerates engine wear by blocking oil returns and supply holes.

The rear cam on my mother's engine seized into the head because it wasn't getting oil....all while the engine never made a tick, knock, or had any metal in the oil. As a result, the cam gear broke and now the engine is obviously in need of repair. I hate thinking that had I used synthetic oil this entire time, all of this may have been prevented.

Here's the inside of a heavily-sludged 1MZ FE that was poorly-serviced:

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[DSM1G90]

Dang, another design flaw by Toyota.

Somebody over across the sea didn't think too good on US requirements for top end design.

I remember, in 1972, that Toyota on their 18RC motors had a horrible cooling design for the heads and would burn up valves in less than 20K miles...

 

[JusMX141]

Dang, another design flaw by Toyota.

Sort-of....but the Japanese cars aren't seeing these issues, only the U.S.-based cars. I don't know who is to blame- the Japanese for having designed a shitty PCV system, or the U.S. for requiring such strict emissions laws that this sort of thing had to happen to an otherwise perfectly-running engine.

One good thing is the 1MZ-FE is not an interference engine, so I can get away with just replacing the heads and not have to worry about anything being bent in the bottom end should I decide to repair the engine that is in the car.


The whole "strict emissions on diesels" thing is driving me up a wall, too. Diesel emissions don't have 1/10th of the hydrocarbons that gasoline emissions do, so what's all the fuss about? Do we need $10,000+ catalytic converters, soot canisters, and D.E.F. injection systems for engines that are otherwise clean-burning?

I just see the example shown above with oil sludge being an issue with diesels using conventional oils in a few years as well. We took a diesel engine which ran for millions of miles with the crankcase vented to atmosphere, and installed enough EGR and exhaust restriction to MURDER the fuel mileage, and increased the engine temps in order to assure a "clean burn".

Example- a 1990 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 Dually which belongs to my uncle gets roughly 18mpg towing a huge camper trailer on the highway. A 2010 F350 4x4 Dually 6.7 Powerstroke that my dad occasionally drives for work gets around 8-9mpg while towing a 20' flatbed trailer hauling empty racks which hold pipe fittings for Dominion Peoples on the highway as well. Am I missing something here? A truck made 20 years ago with no emissions gets twice the mileage than a truck built today with emissions components bolted everywhere? So the trucks on the road today use twice as much fuel....but do it cleanly. Now there's something to be proud of.

 

[DSM1G90]

or the U.S. for requiring such strict emissions laws .. Do we need $10,000+ catalytic converters, soot canisters, and D.E.F. injection systems for engines that are otherwise clean-burning? .... So the trucks on the road today use twice as much fuel....but do it cleanly. Now there's something to be proud of.

Kinda points to that "Big Brothers" are the ones to point our finger to... After getting that head replace, gonna find ways to make the PCV system breathe better, or prob stick with synth oils?