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Aem WB and ECMlink?

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pur97tsifwd

15+ Year Contributor
331
2
Jan 31, 2006
Nevada, Missouri
Ok I would like to install my ECMlink on fall break in my car but the Aem wideband I have gauge type is confusing me on hooking it up to the ecu. I know I have to solder the white into the front o2 and change the screw on the back to p4 setting and run the narrowband o2 simulator. My question is do i need to hook up the blue wire to another sensor input or will the white wire log the a/f on dsmlink. Also I have the sensor in the downpipe should I move it to the o2 housing I heard this is bad on the sensor but you get a better reading for the simulator.

People that have AEM widebands and ECMlink running the simulator in v3 could you answer my questions and how you hook it up and what is best.
 
Before you start jumping head first in doing a WB install and logging it in dsmlink you need to install dsmlink FIRST and get your idle/cruise fuel trims tuned properly. Things just don't "line up" and start working perfectly after dsmlinks installed, even with a 100% stock car things need adjusted. Use these demo videos and ask questions, then do the below so you can setup you wideband.

I suggest you install the WB sensor in the front o2 location and plug the bung thats in your downpipe, if you've got one. By installing it in the front o2 spot for simulation the WB sensor will react faster to changes being made to the AFR by the ECU, the further down the exhaust the slower the reaction and the more PITA its going to be to get it to run right. Its still possible to do because dsmlink has the tools to tune it properly, its just going to take a bit more to get everything to operate like it should.

Below is a diagram I made for you really fast if you still decide to use the front o2 sensor wire like you originally posted. Pin 4 (WHT) wire is where you'll tap into so you can log AND simulate your front o2 sensor using dsmlink. Whether you decide to simulate the front o2 or use a different ECU input the blue wire won't be used so just tape it off and zip tie it out of the way.

Heres your 1g ECU pinout --> 1g ECU pinout
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After its installed your a few clicks in dsmlink away from having a logging and operation WB o2 sensor. Before you start the car you'll want to just turn the key to the "ON" position and connect your laptop to dsmlink, then follow the steps below...

Setting Up o2 Simulation
  1. Go to your "live settings" menu
  2. Open your NBo2 Sim tab
  3. Enable your o2 simulation but checking the box
  4. Set your WB switch point to 2.34 (this might need some tweaking but should get you close)
Logging WB
  1. Open your ECU Inputs tab
  2. Under the Pin Assignments for Datalogging (PC-side) menu click "Factory None" across from front o2 which will bring up a drop down menu.
  3. Select your WB, theres a few AEM WB gauges to choose from so unless you get lucky you'll probably have to go back and change this.
  4. Click the Save Pin Assignments button below.
  5. Click the Captured Values button and add the WB to captured values.
  6. Under the Pin Assignments for ECMLink Functions (ECU-side) menu click the "Undefined" drop down menu next to Wideband.
  7. Select front o2.

Easy enough? After you do the above start the car and let it warm up to operating temp. while its capturing a datalog. Then attach the log to a post in this thread and we'll see what changes your going to have to make.

:dsm:
 
^These types of posts are what deserves to click on the poster's "tag this post as helpful"

God job on the explanation.

I still would like my pics of the evo mud flaps that you installed on your 2g, that I asked about in your thread a while ago. LOL
 
^These types of posts are what deserves to click on the poster's "tag this post as helpful"

God job on the explanation.

I still would like my pics of the evo mud flaps that you installed on your 2g, that I asked about in your thread a while ago. LOL
Thanks, I'm glad someone appreciates these long as hell write-ups I do occasionally.
About the mudflap pictures and write-up I've been putting it off because I still like claiming I'm the only 2g with RallyArmor flaps. :thumb:

:dsm:
 
Thanks, I'm glad someone appreciates these long as hell write-ups I do occasionally.
About the mudflap pictures and write-up I've been putting it off because I still like claiming I'm the only 2g with RallyArmor flaps. :thumb:

:dsm:

Not for long, mine have been in my porch for about a month now. One way or another (meaning pics or no pics) they will be installed on my 2gb very soon. I'll post a video on YouTube on how to do it. :hellyeah:

I kinda do what you do but in video form. Check out my YouTube page under jjrock5. I have "a few" DSM vids for the DSM community. :)
 
I was under the assumption that having the WB sensor that close caused it to prematurly fail, even the AEM mauual states:

"Mount the O2 sensor in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. If you anticipate high EGT's (over 800C), run a turbocharger, run at high RPM for extended periods of time or plan on running leaded race fuel then you must mount the sensor at least 36 inches or more downstream of the exhaust port as all of these can cause the sensor to overheat."

Exhaust temp limit= 1030C
800C=1472F
1030C=1886F
 
Its good you follow the AEM WB manual but DSM'rs have run and will continue to run their WB sensors in the front o2 spot with no problems. I know I'm basically the only one posting up in this thread but I want to say 75% of the DSM's on the dsmlink forums run it there with absolutely no issues.

:dsm:
 
Well I went and did some more digging and found a post by Kiggly(and others) where he suggests and states that how he runs it with no issues(1st o2 port) and has had no problems. I haven't had any issues with mine and have been running it for yrs. 36in. downstream, but my manifold and downpipe are wraped to keep the heat in, maybe that helps.

But thanks for doing the complete writeup.
 
I thought the buffer was only for the egr on a 1g or on a 2g the baro for installing a sensor input.
Your both correct. The buffer was designed for the 1g EGR and the 2g Baro inputs that both share a pull up/pull down resistor configuration. For instance if you log a WB on the 1g EGR input it might cycle just fine but when going WOT the sensor will only read as rich as 12.5:1, for obvious reasons you'd NEED the buffer circuit to fix this.

In the AEM UEGO's case you don't NEED the buffer circuit because the gauge will log from full rich (10:1) to full lean (17:1). In most cases though the logged value your seeing on link won't match the displayed value on the gauge. Thats why there are so many different versions of the gauge offered in dsmlinks ECU inputs selections.
If none of the AEM WB gauges match the logged to the displayed then you can select "LinearWB" from the gauge selection and use your own values to get it to log accurately. Again, once you get everything setup and logging we'll get you setup so everythings good to go.

:dsm:
 
(gofer) Nice write up on the 1g install. I assume (although I'm not sure, hence why I'm asking) that I could just install my AEM wideband o2 in the front location (I have a 97 tsi) and wire it into dsmlink (v3 lite in my case) to use for o2 sim and logging? I've searched a little, but don't really understand the CORRECT way to do this (in a 2g). Sorry to the OP if this is considered high jacking...

Anyway could someone (gofer perhaps) point me in the right direction? (looking for something simular to the 1g install here (only for a 2g of course)
 
(gofer) Nice write up on the 1g install. I assume (although I'm not sure, hence why I'm asking) that I could just install my AEM wideband o2 in the front location (I have a 97 tsi) and wire it into dsmlink (v3 lite in my case) to use for o2 sim and logging? I've searched a little, but don't really understand the CORRECT way to do this (in a 2g). Sorry to the OP if this is considered high jacking...

Anyway could someone (gofer perhaps) point me in the right direction? (looking for something simular to the 1g install here (only for a 2g of course)
Sorry, I guess the thread didn't notify for whatever reason after you posted so I wasn't able to get in here sooner to help. The above info in my first post still applies running it on a 2g (95-99) the only thing that changes is what wire to tap into the ECU, below is the the 2g UEGO wiring and 2g ECU pin out info.

2g ECU pin out

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:dsm:
 
I would just like to say thanx to gofer and jrock, gofer provides some of the best and descriptive replies I have ever read on on any forum, he has helped alot of people including myself out many times, jrock probably has the most descriptive and informative dsm videos on YouTube, he shows parts and explains what he is doing in great detail and makes alot of mods easier for newbies to understand, so on behalf of the dsm community I say thanx and applaud you for your dedication to helping out fellow dsmers and helping prove what makes owning and modding a dsm is all about...kudos-Gary
 
i would just like to say thanx to gofer and jrock, gofer provides some of the best and descriptive replies i have ever read on on any forum, he has helped alot of people including myself out many times, jrock probably has the most descriptive and informative dsm videos on youtube, he shows parts and explains what he is doing in great detail and makes alot of mods easier for newbies to understand, so on behalf of the dsm community i say thanx and applaud you for your dedication to helping out fellow dsmers and helping prove what makes owning and modding a dsm is all about...kudos-gary


+1!!
 
I want to see how this works out for you guys using the ugeo through link. I've done it on a few cars as well as my own and the ugeo always was off from what link was showing. This is due to the voltage that the ugeo puts out. I even tried it through LINWB which always you to change the voltage reading and was still off. But gofers diagram is correct. Also if you use a different WB like a lc-1 you can log it through the egr pin15 on a 1G with out a buffer.

aemwb [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
I would just like to say thanx to gofer and jrock, gofer provides some of the best and descriptive replies I have ever read on on any forum, he has helped alot of people including myself out many times, jrock probably has the most descriptive and informative dsm videos on YouTube, he shows parts and explains what he is doing in great detail and makes alot of mods easier for newbies to understand, so on behalf of the dsm community I say thanx and applaud you for your dedication to helping out fellow dsmers and helping prove what makes owning and modding a dsm is all about...kudos-Gary

Thanks, bro. :hellyeah:
 
No problem jrock, I used your fuel pump and fpr videos and it made it a breeze to install. I'm a subscriber to your vids too
 
So I've tried starting a new thread but just can't figure it out. I just purchased this car about a month ago, and I'm trying to dial in base tune. TPS is at .63, idle switch working properly and throttle cable also adjusted properly. Fixed all boost leaks, checked timing, new plugs gapped .028, I haven't purchased a FPR yet so I'm guessing fuel pressure is 37psi (stock FPR isn't leaking). FP solenoid was removed and it's pretty much stock except for rewired 250 Walbro and RC 550s. It has link V2 with AEM UEGO WB in the rear wired to pin 4 on ECU. Think this is an older gauge bc I don't see p4 behind it. My AirflowperRev is .25/.26 but my combineFT in closedloop drops to -20% so I've tried adjusting deadtime but that didn't change anything. My question is, Is this the correct set up or should I move the AEMWB to the front? Is this the reason why I can't dial in combinedFT? I do plan on upgrading to V3 but just don't have $250 to shell out right now. Replacing all seals, gaskets, fuel filter, pump screen filter ($20 WTF), regular maintenance items so things add up quick. Not to mention getting all the missing interior pieces. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!
 
Last edited:
Pretty sure it was calculated to 18.2 or 18.4%. I ordered V3 upgrade today so ECU is coming out tomorrow. I'm new to ECMlink and have been researching the BLEEP out of it for a month now. Had a 2g GSX w SAFC and paid turbotrix to tune it but that sold about 13 years ago. How do I upload a log? I know where the logs are in link, but have no clue how to get it out of there to my desk Thanks gofer!
 
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