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Holset Turbos, PART 7

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Justin, how come the surface of the chra and turbine housing looks so good in this picture? What did you do to it? What kind of coating? How long will it be not rusty looking after you start driving it?
Media-blasting while the turbo is completely apart, thorough cleaning of both housings, then a recoat with cast blast.


The high-temp stuff is supposedly good to 1200*f, and has remained visible on the turbine housing even after a full season of racing on local customers' and friends' cars.
 
Hopefully this will be the right spot. Two things here:

1. Justin rebuild my turbo and it's amazing so for anyone that needs it, do it :thumb:
2. This is how my setup will look and to help with more pictures :coy:

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I coated the manifold and turbine housing in VHT ceramic paint and the compressor cover was just done in dupli-color (wondering how long it will actually hold up LOL). The CHRA was coated by Justin but matched up VERY well to the other pieces.
 
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How many CHRA-to-turbine housing bolts are you guys able to bolt up?

I was only able to bolt up 4 of the 6 because the feed and drain flanges were getting in the way but now im thinking that i could've clocked the housing while installing them and I could've installed all 6...
 
That's exactly what you need to do John. It'll mainly be at the oil flanges where you will need to turn the CHRA to allow you to get the final bolts in. I do have all 6 installed.
 
I haven't had any problem with clearance for all six bolts so far, and my CHRA has water cooling provisions, meaning I have even less room to work with. ;) You do have to play with clocking it back and forth a bit, and slim wrenches help.
 
CRAP! Now I have to unbolt the damn turbo and play with the clocking...
 
Looks nice!
Oh, and Justin didn't coat the CHRA. My guess is you're referring to the exhaust housing.

I only sent him the Center Housing Rotating Assembly (CHRA), wheels exposed... :p

But on a side note, I will consider your offer Brian as I doubt car paint will last under the hood :)


Ed, it's not the fact the wrenches don't fit, it's that the bolt holes are directly under the oil fittings not allowing removal/installation of the bolt under the fitting without clocking the CHRA to allow the removal/installation. You obviously have a different setup than the HX40 I posted, would you be able to get any pictures of your setup?
 
So i'm still waiting for the right turbo to get here, maybe today or tomorrow i hope, but my bolt on BEP .55 housing came in. Ordered it from Amy at Bullseye Performance and she shipped out exactly what i ordered. $270 shipped and got to Maryland at my house in less than three days.

I called up Tim's Turbos first and they said they'd have some in at the end of the week. Called them the next week and still none in. BTW, the one phone number i got a hold of him the first time and then i got the answering machine the next 10 times so i found another phone number for them on their site and they answered that one the first time. When i called back to check to see if they came in the next week, he said no. He said it looks like Bullseye has them in stock though, you just want to call them? I said yeah, and 3 days later it's at my house. Here it is, HX35 bolt on .55 housing set up with no WG flapper to run tial off the o2 housing. :rocks:
 

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You could still use that housing. :thumb:

Take it to a machine shop and have them drill it open for you. Don't even bother trying it yourself. The amount of time you would invest and the money alone on bits, etc. would cover your machine shop fee.

If you don't have a shop around you, Tim, at Tims turbos would open it up for you. You'd have to ship it to him for the work to be done.

Well I got a local machine shop to do this for me. He did a damn good job too. Probably spent more time talking to him about nonsense then he actually did working on my housing.
 
I was cruising around the internet after stumbling upon a H2A on eBay. I'd never hear of it before, so I did some searching. Here's what I found about it.

From: Saabiklubi foorum - Kuidas teha korralikku väljalaskekollet / How to build decent exhaust manifold -

I see vigge posted in the thread. He has some stuff about Holsets in his Saabs somewhere on this site.

compressor inducer - 50 mm
compressor exducer - 82 mm
TRIM - 37

turbine inducer - 75 mm
turbine exducer - 64 mm
(11 blades, hard to measure)
Turbine housing is a 16 cm2 one. (or is it 18, hard to read)

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He's putting it in some sort of Saab.

The one on eBay is going for super cheap, but it's also not in the greatest shape. Holset H2A Turbo : eBay Motors (item 290428740369 end time May-02-10 00:34:09 PDT)

I figured I'd put the info on here for the next person who searches.
 
Here are pictures of my return line set up and my internal wastegate. Any questions let me know. I jsut started the car this morning, and so far no leaks (knock on wood)
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I made the internal wastegate piece (in green) out of 3/8 steel brake line. I curved it into an "S" shape and then flattened the one side to drill a hole into it for the wastegate flapper. Ill let you know how it holds up
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Just took the car for a test drive, and the turbo is pretty laggy. And with my boost controller turned all the way out, its boosting 25 psi! Thats more then I want to run on pump gas. Any ideas? Thanks
 
First of all make sure that return line isn't kinking. What kind of hose is that?

If your boost controller has no effect on boost control, something is wrong. Your wastegate might not be opening correctly.
 
There are no kinks in the return line, its a straight shot. I got the hose from Autozone, its a molded heater hose. 3/4 inch. I hit the wastegate acutator with some compressed air and it seems to be opening ok, but I did that before i mounted it on the turbo. Ill check that. Thanks. Any other ideas?
 
There are no kinks in the return line, its a straight shot. I got the hose from Autozone, its a molded heater hose. 3/4 inch. I hit the wastegate acutator with some compressed air and it seems to be opening ok, but I did that before i mounted it on the turbo. Ill check that. Thanks. Any other ideas?

Be careful using heater hose, it will eventually get spongy and break down from the oil I dought it was designed for oil to run through it
 
I see your point on the heater hose issue.
 
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Just took the car for a test drive, and the turbo is pretty laggy. And with my boost controller turned all the way out, its boosting 25 psi! Thats more then I want to run on pump gas. Any ideas? Thanks

Double check that the WGA holds a slight bit of pull, so you know the flapper is held sealed shut.

Did you port the wastegate opening at all? My 1G with the BEP bolton, external off the o2 housing creeps past 25psi.
 
Currently working on a billet 8-blade HX40 setup for my buddy Dean to use on his RX7. He recently destroyed the turbine wheel on the GT4088 that was on the car, and while he liked the performance of the 4088 he opted for something with a little quicker spool in exchange for a little peak airflow that he wasn't really using anyway (on running 18psi on the 4088). The car traps almost 130 with the 4088 in place; his E.T.'s aren't as impressive, however, due to the lag.

It will be a 8-blade billet HX40 in the T4 divided 17cm housing, flapper welded shut. I'm quite excited to see how this turbo will hold up on his car!

Here are a couple underhood pics of the car with the 4088 in place; the cheap XS Power intercooler will be upgraded to a true front mount soon as it's placement (behind the radiator) does nothing to cool the intake charge:
 

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I made the internal wastegate piece (in green) out of 3/8 steel brake line. I curved it into an "S" shape and then flattened the one side to drill a hole into it for the wastegate flapper. Ill let you know how it holds up

Just took the car for a test drive, and the turbo is pretty laggy. And with my boost controller turned all the way out, its boosting 25 psi! Thats more then I want to run on pump gas. Any ideas? Thanks

Are you using the Holset actuator? If so, its probably got too much spring. IIRC, the lowest Holset actuator is on the WH1C at 17psi. Make sure its putting pressure on the flap when its suppose to be closed too.
 
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