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1g Clutch PEDAL Adjustment???

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tsi1991awd

10+ Year Contributor
1,366
6
Sep 28, 2008
Puyallup, Washington
Is there a pedal adjustment that can be made aside from the master cylinder rod? I adjusted the rod a month ago and noticed tonight that it engages almost immediately after I let off the floor.

I did what was said according to the video...where you turn the rod, check to see if the slave pushes in and if it does you turn the rod more. Then when the slave can't be pushed freely, you back it out just until the slave can be pushed in freely then tighten the nut. I'll try and check adjustment again, but I don't know....maybe my clutch is shot
 
I bet the clutch is shot also.

If you did it by the video then thats the only answer.
 
Check to verify that your clutch pedal arm is moving when you move the pedal. it could be beginning to go bad.
 
Is there a pedal adjustment that can be made aside from the master cylinder rod? I adjusted the rod a month ago and noticed tonight that it engages almost immediately after I let off the floor.

....maybe my clutch is shot
Try bleeding the clutch.

It's unusual that a worn clutch would gain freeplay, allowing the clutch to grab right off the floor....normally a worn clutch won't engage until near the top of the pedal travel, robbing freeplay and eventually resulting in slippage.
 
What is a normal engagement point....how far off the floor? Because this is probably 1/4 or 1/2" off the floor before it engages.

And eddogg, yes that's the video.
 
I dont think you want it to engage right off the floor! I would say about 3/4-1" of freeplay when you push it down would be about right?
Dont overlook the worn clutch pedal as i stated. Go under the dash and push with your hand and verify the arm is pushing the master when you push the pedal. Its common in 1gs.
 
Do you have a properly shimed pivot ball?
 
I recently replaced a buddys slave because he to was having problems with engagement. We tried to bleed and bleed to no avail. After replacing the slave cylinder and proper adjustment the 2600 act worked with no problems! Good luck and keep us posted!
 
I had to shim the pivot ball and replace the clutch pedal/bushings to get my clutch to work properly.
 
I went out and adjusted the clutch a little bit ago. The problem now is it will start to engage about a quarter of the way but then when it fully engages it feels like a 6 puck. it grabs and the front end shakes a bit. all other gears are fine. its just the initial first gear engagement. the slave throws out all the way and all

So, got it figured out. Went to work, things were so-so....the pedal had been a bit loose all day....not as tight as it usually is. Well, after work I went out to the car and the pedal felt a bit looser than usual and it engages IMMEDIATELY after I let off the floor!!! This reminds me EXACTLY of my friends 240 when the slave cylinder went out. There is full engagement by about 1/4 of the way up and disengagement is pretty much at the floor as well. It's hard to put it into different gears.

Does this sound like a slave cylinder problem? Would it just happen all of a sudden like this???
 
Ok. Go to your clutch pedal, press it down and let it back up to rest at its normal position. Then, use your hand to pull up on the pedal. If you can pull the pedal up more, most times about an inch of play, It's most likely a linkage problem. Let me know what you find out.
 
I am not going to be able to check everything out again until Monday so the car is just going to sit until then. But one thing that made me think it is the slave cylinder was because when I pushed on the slave (when checking the adjustment) when it came back out, it came back slowly but then all of a sudden the metal "nipple" on the end just popped out further. It's kind of hard to explain but....there wasn't a fluid motion all the way out, it just came out then after the boot stopped I thought it was done and then the nipple part popped out on its own. I pressed it in again and after it stopped moving, I could pull it a little and the nipple popped again. I don't know if this is normal for it to do or what.

When the clutch is pushed, it throws out like it should and all so....

*Edit: I also want to mention that when pushing the clutch in, there is a slight vibration feel that was never there. This happens when the car is on or off. I can't explain the feeling all that well, but it feels like if you took a rod and pulled it out of rubber...how it may feel "jittery" as you pulled it out...not a fluid motion. Except it feels that way when you push the clutch in.
 
I also want to mention that when pushing the clutch in, there is a slight vibration feel that was never there. This happens when the car is on or off. I can't explain the feeling all that well, but it feels like if you took a rod and pulled it out of rubber...how it may feel "jittery" as you pulled it out...not a fluid motion. Except it feels that way when you push the clutch in.
What you're describing is a symptom of a master cylinder with an ovaled bore.

Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid doesn't have lubricity- when the seals wear or the bore ovals and the piston is able to contact the wall of the master cylinder, it will feel as though it's "binding" just as you're describing.

You can replace both parts (master cylinder and slave cylinder) at once for less than $80 and you won't have to worry about a hydraulic-related clutch failure for quite a while. It's the only way to go.
 
What you're describing is a symptom of a master cylinder with an ovaled bore.

Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid doesn't have lubricity- when the seals wear or the bore ovals and the piston is able to contact the wall of the master cylinder, it will feel as though it's "binding" just as you're describing.

You can replace both parts (master cylinder and slave cylinder) at once for less than $80 and you won't have to worry about a hydraulic-related clutch failure for quite a while. It's the only way to go.

Is this something that can occur suddenly like this? Would a master and slave from Napa be OK to use? I need to have this fixed Monday and they can have the parts there tomorrow.
 
Where were you thinking you can get the master and slave for 80 bucks? What website or store?
 
I will try my luck with the master and slave frim Napa. they can have the parts whereas the dealer cant have them for a week. Hopefully i dont have any problems.
 
Where were you thinking you can get the master and slave for 80 bucks? What website or store?
RockAuto has a slave cylinder for $24.79 and a master cylinder for about the same.

They don't sell Chinese garbage on that site- everything is name-brand...Dorman, Bendix, Rhino Pac; all of those brands are actually OEM suppliers these days. If you buy a new car tomorrow, chances are the hydraulic clutch components will be made by one of those three manufacturers.
 
I just had my wife order the parts at Napa. i dont have the time to wait for the parts to be shipped to me. also ive read some bad things on here about Dorman harmonic balancers....dont know what that says about the hydraulic components, if anything
 
I just had my wife order the parts at Napa. i dont have the time to wait for the parts to be shipped to me. also ive read some bad things on here about Dorman harmonic balancers....dont know what that says about the hydraulic components, if anything

You took my words from me. I don't trust Dorman. Heard to much negative feedback about there products, at least for our cars.

This may come as a shock to you, but NAPA doesn't build their own parts. Whatever clutch hydraulics you recieve from them will be built by one of these manufacturers in a NAPA box:

- Bendix
- Dorman
- Raybestos
- Rhino Pac (normally made in Japan or Canada of Chinese components)
- Wagner
 
I would also like to say that Dorman parts are made in China...so saying theyre not "chinese garbage" is kind of false.

This may come as a shock to you, but NAPA doesn't build their own parts. Whatever clutch hydraulics you recieve from them will be built by one of these manufacturers in a NAPA box:

- Bendix
- Dorman
- Raybestos
- Rhino Pac (normally made in Japan or Canada of Chinese components)
- Wagner

I didnt see this post. I know Napa doesnt make their own parts....just saying that ive read a few bad things about Dorman. But i guess even if you get an OEM one you might be in the same boat.

This is going to sound dumb but bare with me. When i put the new master cylinder in, do i need to turn the adjustment rod in or anything or just connect the bracket to the pedal? The reason i ask is because later when i do the clutch adjustments wouldnt it be difficult if the rod wasnt adjusted in some way beforehand? Also, one last thing.....should the pedal be all the way up when connecting the bracket to the pedal?
 
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