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Transmission (driverside) Axle seal Leak!

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streetillEagle

10+ Year Contributor
110
0
Dec 6, 2008
Sacramento, California
94 Eagle Talon 6bolt AWD transmission axle seal leak. I've searched the forums about this problem and see that it is common to have this seal leak. I know how to change it, BUT upon inspecting the rubber seal I do not see anything wrong with it. The spring is not broken, and there are no tears in the rubber what so ever.
I've read that I must make sure the shaft is fully inserted into the tranny. "I don't understand how you can't have it inserted fully if you can get the two bolts that go on the mount (on the shaft) that connect to the motor?" If the shaft weren't connected right..the shaft mount wouldn't align with the threads on the motor. Thanks in advance Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
MD719710 -- here is the part number for the driver-side axle seal. Are you sure it is leaking from this seal? You are sure it is not leaking from the output shaft seal or from the transmission case due to damage, or an engine rear main seal?

Usually I see the output shaft seals leaking on 1G transmissions, but it is not uncommon for axle seal leakage -- especially on 15 year-old transmissions.
 
It definitely wasn't that shaft seal (thank God) it was the axle seal you circled green. Easy fix just a chore to get to being AWD. Being that it is a 15yr old car it only has 80k on it.:D
I ordered the seal through JNZ. I installed it Friday got it all tightened up and ready to run. Got the key turned to Acc. and let the Wally prime.. then (sniff Sniff) "fuel leak" out of my braided line:ohdamn: I hate gas. So I just went and bought all new AN fittings and new braided line to relocate the AFPR.
 
if it were the output shaft, what all would you have to do to replace it, sounds like a PITA

Easiest way?? Pull the transmission.

Hard way?? Pull the transfer case, and exhaust. Then remove the 5th gear cover on the transmission case after you drain the transmission. Then you would remove the viscous coupler snapring, viscous coupler, and viscous coupler detent ball. Then you pull the output shaft out from the transfer case side. Then you would need to use a slide hammer with a hook attachment to pull the seal. Then you would need to use a rubber mallet and seal driver (or socket with extension) to install the new output shaft seal, then reinstall the output shaft, then the detent ball, then the viscous coupler, then the viscous coupler snapring, then reinstall the reverse synchro if it fell off, then reinstall the 5th gear cover with fresh RTV sealant, then refill the transmission.

If the transmission is on the ground, it takes the same steps as above, but it is much easier to work with to remove the output shaft and its seal.
 
that's insane. I would have taken the transmission off and been shipping it in to go from stage 1 rebuild to stage 3. Since it was only the $5.00 seal I'm happy I was able to fix it so fast. So get this (new problem) I get the fuel leak all worked out shinny new An fittings and braided hose. I go to drive it. It runs great, then when I get off the freeway it starts dying when I press the clutch. I looked at everything mechanical and nothing:confused:. I've always been able to start my car without pressing the clutch. It starts and idles fine but as soon as I press the clutch it dies. So I disconnected the negative of the batt. reconnected it. Started the car up. "No more problem!" What electrical problem would cause this to happen? "I apologize in advance if this should have been posted under another topic."
 
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