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Stoptech BIG brake kit!!!!

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Yeah, me either. :) I tend to test unscientifically, focusing on end result and not "why." Because my mods are just for my specific setup, I don't have to be able to explain or justify them. As long as they work, I'm good. Maybe Todd or someone similar will notice this thread and can enlighten us.

BTW, your brakes look awesome. The two piece rotor is amazing, very :cool: If you get a chance, could you weight it? Maybe weigh it all, that would be cool data to have. I planned to weigh the evo setup, then promptly forgot. I'll throw it on a scale when it gets pulled next.
 
I don't have Stoptechs, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Fundamentally, I agree with what you're saying about weight transfer, it's simply a matter of physics, but these stoptechs are designed to work with a stock suspension car. The weight transfer under braking (requiring less rear braking force) is reduced as the suspension is modified to reduce fore and aft movement. As this happens, the rear brakes become more involved. How much so? I don't know.

That's all well and good, but the modifications we do typically are not changing the actual weight transfer, just the rate at which it transfers. The only way to change the actual weight transfer via suspension, is to change the geometry (ex: changing the wheelbase) So therefore the weight transferred is still the same.

I do know I'd rather use all four tires (as much as possible) to slow the car as fast as possible. I'd like to maximize the braking assistance from the rear brakes as much as possible without crossing the line of course. :enters corner backwards... :|

It's just my personal theory about my own car, but I believe installing the evo brake setup, which shifts bias rearwards will improve this balance. Unfortunately, I have yet to test this out.

Thoughts?
What I'm saying is that you can achieve that "balance" with the stock rears. because they are needed less *overall* you can use a bias valve to get the proper ratio of front to rear.


Adding "on the last hot lap" in there would make it more accurate.
That is a bit more true, however a proper functioning brake setup should work the same "warmed up" as on the last lap. If they brakes are constantly increasing in temp (every lap) then you need to modify this system to have them level out.
 
That's all well and good, but the modifications we do typically are not changing the actual weight transfer, just the rate at which it transfers. The only way to change the actual weight transfer via suspension, is to change the geometry (ex: changing the wheelbase) So therefore the weight transferred is still the same.

What I'm saying is that you can achieve that "balance" with the stock rears. because they are needed less *overall* you can use a bias valve to get the proper ratio of front to rear.


That is a bit more true, however a proper functioning brake setup should work the same "warmed up" as on the last lap. If they brakes are constantly increasing in temp (every lap) then you need to modify this system to have them level out.


Very interesting and usefull info.

I will weight the brake set up tonight, No I have not installed them yet.
It got too cold and I got kind of busy for the last month.
 
That's all well and good, but the modifications we do typically are not changing the actual weight transfer, just the rate at which it transfers. The only way to change the actual weight transfer via suspension, is to change the geometry (ex: changing the wheelbase) So therefore the weight transferred is still the same.

What I'm saying is that you can achieve that "balance" with the stock rears. because they are needed less *overall* you can use a bias valve to get the proper ratio of front to rear.


That is a bit more true, however a proper functioning brake setup should work the same "warmed up" as on the last lap. If they brakes are constantly increasing in temp (every lap) then you need to modify this system to have them level out.

I don't believe that to be completely accurate - the two primary factors affecting weight transfer are wheelbase/track (braking/accel vs cornering) and CG height, therefore lowering the car does affect weight transfer, and it does so by reducing it.
 
I can kind of see how lowered CG will effect the total weight transfer, but it would be fairly minimal. Obviously I haven't done the math on this type of thing recently, but I would assume, even if you lowered the car significantly (which is bad for other reasons, especially on a 1g) that the change would be fairly slight, and could be compensated with by pad choice and a bias valve.


But I hadn't really thought of that when making my previous argument and it is a valid point.
 
I just got around of weighting the brake kit(finally), The Stoptech BBK weights 22lbs per side.

I dont know how much does the stock ones weight.

-MSR
 
Nice! Thank you for providing the data. :thumb: The rotors are 1.25 correct?

I'm doing a bit of work on the car, I'll plan on weighing the evo setup for additional reference point.

I sold off my stockers a long time ago, the weight is probably around here somewhere..
 
So finally I got around installing my brakes, I will have feed back on how they actually work on the track later down the road for now they just look nice.
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So finally I got around installing my brakes, I will have feed back on how they actually work on the track later down the road for now they just look nice.
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Back to life!
So do you have the Evo brakes on the rear as well and how does the stoptech with the Evo brakes feel as far as brake bias?

I right now have the Baer eradisport 3 piece rotor brake setu with Evo brakes in the rear. Car brakes feel excellent not to mention I also upgraded the MC and Brake booster.

I have a BBK Stoptech setup waiting to go on but it is hard to decide since the bears perform well.
 
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