No 3rd or 4th gear

[1fast97gsx]

All the other gears work fine. 3rd and 4th slide in ( shifter is VERY easy to move into those gears ) but when I let the clutch out it feels like I'm in neutral. Does this mean a broken shift fork or rail? What are the chances of nothing else having gotten damaged too badly? I have both extra forks and rails at home so I'm hoping to just swap them out. May this be possible?

 

[1fast97gsx]

Oh just to add ... this happened while I was in wot in 3rd gear at about 6000 rpm. I felt a hard jerk and the car flew up and bounced off the rev limiter. After that no 3rd or 4th.

 

[Awdboost]

Sound like it's time to pull the trans. That sucks Sorry to hear about it. Sound like you blew up your Hub and slider. This happen to Sleeper142. But it happened after a hard shift into 3rd. He could shift into first, second, fifth and reverse.. But not third and forth.

 

[Raph]

Oh well.. this just happened to me 20 mins ago..

Was doing some testing and well.. i just lost 3rd and fourth.. i thought it was a problem in the linkage.. ,then i popped the hood.. the cables are still on there,the cotterpins too..

the car drives in 1st,2nd,5th and reverse. shifter movers through the gates easy,no grinding noises or anything like that.. just 3rd n 4th are gone.


discuss


edit.. i have rails and forks off a fwd Hyundai Santa-fe at home.. the tranny looked very simular and its a 2.4.. so i kept them when we swapped a Santa fes tranny..

 

[1stGenRocks]

If you can still use all the other gears and dont have any grinding or noise you may be lucky and just have a broken fork/rail since they do share one. But more likely then not you have bigger problems

 

[Raph]

If you can still use all the other gears and dont have any grinding or noise you may be lucky and just have a broken fork/rail since they do share one. But more likely then not you have bigger problems

Well, i rechecked all the linkage( i dreamt about it being a missing cotter pin last night) ..its all good.. so now,i can start the car, put it in 3rd or 4th.. without depressing the clutch.. no noise what so ever ..just emptiness

So i drove it around the block and into the garage(1st..2nd--5th ).. ill be pulling the trans on the weekend. Oh well.. at least it pulled like crazy all night before i boke the damned thing

anyone have a gst tranny lying around? i doubt tre can use my tranny, i have slightly shorter 3rd and 4th gears ..everything else is the same. but maybe i could do witha longer gear set. its just that shipping is going to own me..500 bucks to ship a trans from the us to europe :-(

 

[C3L1CA]

Oh just to add ... this happened while I was in wot in 3rd gear at about 6000 rpm. I felt a hard jerk and the car flew up and bounced off the rev limiter. After that no 3rd or 4th.

I had the exact same thing happen to me last night. Just starting making boost in 3rd and felt like I blew an intercooler pipe but I no longer had 3rd or 4th gear.

Any body have this same problem and figure out what the damage was, or what all needed fixing?

 

[twicks69]

Likely a snapped shift fork, but it could also be a shattered 3/4 slider. Either way, look forward to replacing the 3/4 shift fork, 3/4 hub and slider, 3rd and 4th synchros and potentially a shift rail with rail end.

The 2G AWD hub/slider assembly is pretty weak as it runs a much thinner slider due to the larger synchros versus the 1G AWD. If you wanted to upgrade to a Early 92 (Heavy Duty) 3/4 assembly which is much beefier, the downside is smaller diameter synchros. To do this, you would need to purchase an Early 92 3rd gear, 4th gear, 3/4 hub and slider, 3/4 springs, 3/4 keys, 3/4 shift rail, 3/4 shift fork, and other misc. parts for the rebuild.

I would reccomend having a fresh rebuild on the rest of the transmission as well, as it should be fully cleaned out, and disassembled so that there isn't any carnage found somewhere else in the trans.

Expect to be spending around $1000-1500 for a stage 1 or stage 2 transmission in this circumstance.

Good luck!

 

[C3L1CA]

Thanks for all the information!

Do you think a stage 1 would last very long at my power level? I know its not close to what you make but its still apparently enough to break things I was hoping for another 50awhp so so come spring to get me to the 500hp range on a dyno dynamics.

Also any recommendations on a transmission or company to go with?

 

[twicks69]

Thanks for all the information!

Do you think a stage 1 would last very long at my power level? I know its not close to what you make but its still apparently enough to break things I was hoping for another 50awhp so so come spring to get me to the 500hp range on a dyno dynamics.

Also any recommendations on a transmission or company to go with?

Personally, I always feel that it is better to build your transmission than to rebuild your transmission.

In this circumstance, I would strongly reccomend going with a transmission rebuilder that will be using either a late 91-early 92 3/4 gearset, or an Evo 3 3/4 gearset. The 2G 1st and 2nd gears are just fine, along with the 5th gear. I would also strongly reccomend going with a GOOD center differential -- NOT one that reuses your stock cross shaft, which they machine down to accept 4 spider gears, as this is the major failing point in a center differential in the first place. You want to have a 4-spider center diff that uses a NEW cross shaft -- preferably the Beyond Redline Performance (Beyond Redline :: Performance Center) Chromoly cross shaft which is hardened and has much better oiling grooves in it, causing it to last for a LONG time and prevents galling of the shaft and the gears. This center diff cross shaft has also been the ONLY cross shaft that I haven't broken over the years, and I still run it in my Eclipse with great success! The shop sells the cross shaft by itself, or they can machine the center diff for you, OR they can do the transmission rebuild. As well, the Speed Design 4-spider center differential uses their own machined cross shaft which is much stronger than the stock cross shaft that has been machined. TRE Transmissions has the ability to use the Speed Design one as they keep it in stock.

The other rebuilders including Shep, Jacks, etc. usually reuse your stock center differential cross shaft and machine it to accept 4 spider gears. Just be careful with this route, as it still can be a failure point, even though the center diff will be stronger with 4 gears vs. 2 spider gears.

I would also suggest a Quaife front differential, or a RipGrip (TRE Trans) in the front differential.

If I was going to let someone rebuild my transmission, I would go to any of the three big guys out there -- Shepherd Transmissions (Sheptrans.com), TRE Transmissions (WELCOME TO TRE## WE SPECIALIZE IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION REPAIR), or to Jacks Transmissions (www.jackstransmissions.com). They all sell a decent product which will likely last. Just a forewarning -- ANY REBUILT RACE OR STOCK TRANSMISSION CAN STILL BREAK -- so keep that in mind.

I would suggest a Shep Stage 3 transmission, a TRE Trans Stage 2.5 or 3 transmission, or a Jacks Premium transmission. I would opt for a 4-spider center differential, and Cryotreatment of the input shaft, intermediate shaft, center differential case, and the 3rd/4th gearset and hub/slider.

All three vendors have a decent product. Thankfully, I rebuild my own transmissions now , as I have spent way too much in the past on these vendors (TRE and Shep) over the years.

Good luck with the transmission!

 

[1rv]

My 99 GST had the same issue @ 96k Miles, on the highway going about 80 mph fourth gear popped out. Then 3rd./4th. gear were gone. Powertrain is stock.

Funny thing is that it happened right after I swapped the front brakes to 2-Pot calipers, I kind of wonder why?

Car is in Germany, so shipping transmission back and forth wouldn't seem very cost effective. Does anyone sell FWD-Transmissions that will last?

 

[twicks69]

This is likely a shift rail being broken, or you exploded the 3rd/4th slider that engages the 3rd and 4th gears. Only way to see what is going on is to disassemble the transmission.

And no, unfortunately, there really are not stronger FWD DSM transmissions that are direct bolt-in. Nor would a conversion be cost effective for a simple part replacement needed.

 

[1rv]

This is likely a shift rail being broken, or you exploded the 3rd/4th slider that engages the 3rd and 4th gears. Only way to see what is going on is to disassemble the transmission.

And no, unfortunately, there really are not stronger FWD DSM transmissions that are direct bolt-in. Nor would a conversion be cost effective for a simple part replacement needed.

Thanks Tim - in the meanwhile transmission has been disassembled: 3rd/4th. slider was broken. Slider parts were replaced, everything cleaned and the car is running fine again. Still would need a replacement FWD transmission, any hints would be appreciated.