The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

PVC port on 4G63 Block

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Metal Health

10+ Year Contributor
59
3
Sep 9, 2012
Detroit, Michigan
Ok heres whats happening, I have two 1/2 O.D. barbs welded on top of valve cover. One going to a check valve to catch can to intake, the other to catch can to intake turbo pipe. Much like stock, only bigger lines.

Problem is PCV side is sucking tons of oil into catch can in matter of minutes. like a straw in a soft drink. The baffling is still in the valve cover untouched. my vacuum is around 15 hg at idle.

Ive thought of a solution, tell me what you think.

Drill/tap a hole for 1/2" 90* barb on top of balance shaft hump on the front of the 4G63 motor. Just south of the water pipe.

1. it will help keep oil out of the lines/catch can/intake.
2. vapors drawn out at lower end of motor allowing oil to freely fall from head, back to pan without a vacuum upstream.
3. this is the highest an driest part of the block to perform this mod.

I would like to keep a closed pcv system. (no breathers)

Has anyone done this?
 
1. Its been done.
2. You have other problems if you have that much blow by for it to be 'drinking' up your oil.
3. If you do it, you would need to take the motor out and build a proper baffle or it will do the same as before.
 
Theres also a port thats already tapped on the rear BS location that will effectively vent CC pressure. Just run the line vertically and you should have no problems with oil getting in the catch can. Do you have a check valve in line between the pcv and the IM? I bet you dont. Something is way off for you to have that much CC pressure and be blowing that much oil out. I bet the pressure is so high its not letting the oil drian back out of the head like it should. Not fast enough at least. This is ONLY happening during boost right? It would be really weird if it was filling up under vac conditions/off boost.
 
My only guess is high volume vacuum source located in a heavy oiled environment.

At this point the baffling in the VC is inadequate?

Yes theres a check valve. when no lines are connected to the VC and its idles, no oil comes out what so ever. Only air like a good running engine would produce.

Engine doesnt burn oil.
Car hasnt been driven, only has idled.
 
Seems like there's way to much oil in the head. Have you thought of a Kiggly HLA?
 
+1 on the Kiggly HLA because it will help lower the amount of oil in the cylinder head. Also in my setup, I put a check valve to keep the can from being pressurized at WOT. This check valve is placed at the end of the line that comes from the intake manifold to the catch can.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL][/IMG]
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I filled the block with a constant 5 psi from compressor so I could drill/tap the block without dropping shavings in of course. I also used assembly lube for taping instead of oil for the fact that assembly lube just grabs and holds all debris. Threw a 90* 1/4npt then 1/2 barb to 1/4 npt. Had lots of thread to grab, anywhere else would of been trouble.

Now this is the highest point of the block to pick from, also wont have to worry about geforce pushing oil up on the front side vs back side. I have yet to start the engine, having the intake welded for mitsu 4 bar.

Ill keep you posted on the results.

The Kiggy HLA is still on list of things to do, even with a ported OPRV, oil pressure can still be high. Not to mention revised lifters also adding more unneeded oil. A 15 psi oil restriction is not a bad idea.
 
Last edited:
Looks good. Is your front BS still in, in but but with the belt cut, or is it eliminated altogether?
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Catch can will be located behind drivers headlight. Return line is alumium bent like a "Z" but with 90*s and its gonna go from the can to check valve to intake and travel under the timing belt motor mount. Ill post completed pics when done.

BS's are long gone Brotha
 
Are you building a baffle also? It doesnt matter how high in the motor the fitting is. The crank is going to sling oil everywhere and with the amount of blowby you were getting you're going to be getting quite a bit of oil in the line.

Think about it. Your baffled vc is pulling a lot a oil and you think an unbaffled block vent is going not pick up any oil.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



I did inspect another block I had laying around before doing this procedure. Now this is all speculation at this point, I noticed in that pocket of the Balance shaft didnt look like it was coated with oil like the rest of the walls in the block. They almost looked dry. Not only that I went between the webbing as arrows show. Its hard to see in the pic.

Where did blowby come from?
 
I think he means blow by, as in, how the hell you have that much CC pressure to begin with. It would make sense. Have you done a leakdown test to see how well the rings are seated? If its not a ton of blow by then maybe its the turbo seal somehow pressurizing the CC. IDK but you should be good with that setup you have now. If not you have something really blocking oil from returning back down.
\

Talonalex: I asked the same question. OP: why DID you do that instead of use the already available hole in the back? Easy to access or something
 
I have something similar to that on my catch setup, instead of drilling into the block, I just used the balance shaft inspection plug on the back of the block.. STM sells the fitting for cheap. Any reason you didn't go that route?
 
Good pics thanks for sharing, I have been waiting for a thread like this. I like the idea of venting from the block as it is closest to the source of blowby. Not to say you're not going to get blowby up in the head, but it's the idea that you're getting as close as possible. Oh and of course it will look MUCH cleaner without huge fittings in the VC. Annnnnd you're not limited to fitting size anymore!

Downside of course is the proper baffling. So I am interested in what your catch can has in store for you after testing.
 
Only a couple of us were wondering why not the rear bs location. Like he said, i wasnt trying to be a dick or anything, im genuinely curious. I have though about this as an alternative for awhile, just never the front location.
 
Trying to introduce something new, but im done. Thanks guys for the ones that supported.

You need to grow some thicker skin.

Nobody said anything negative to you. This mod is nothing new. Many people have it done including myself. We are just trying to tell you you have other issues if you have that much blow by. Also as others pointed out there is an balance shaft inspection hole in the back of the bock that does not require any drilling or risks of getting metal shavings in your block. Plus the lack of a baffle which takes only a few minutes to make if you have a welder.
 
You know what man, brains = power. We'll see whos fast next season.

What? This isn't new or novel. Some cursory searching would've shown you that.

Plenty of folks have done what you are doing. Several of them have since found more ways to achieve the same effect, some of which are easier and manage to perform just as well.

"Brains" is acknowledging the above.

Many are going fast with inadequate, poorly designed and in some cases non-existant PCV setups.
 
What is interesting to me is that you are going with a PCV system that Ford used on the old pinto engine back in 1974 and was used till the mid 90's. That has a 5/8 block port that an external baffle can to the PVC valve to the intake.

Also the Miata guys do a similar mod on the Mazda 1.8BP

I will agree you will need some sort of baffle for that mod you have done, It may be fine at idle, but when the RPMs increase, the roping effect the oil has on the crank will still throw oil in the area you drilled and tapped.
 
Bogus: may be you can answer for me. Why did he choose to tap a spot on the front BS vs the already tapped hole on the rear? Is there a size difference cause i thought the rear hole was pretty damn big.
 
What is interesting to me is that you are going with a PCV system that Ford used on the old pinto engine back in 1974 and was used till the mid 90's. That has a 5/8 block port that an external baffle can to the PVC valve to the intake.

Also the Miata guys do a similar mod on the Mazda 1.8BP

I will agree you will need some sort of baffle for that mod you have done, It may be fine at idle, but when the RPMs increase, the roping effect the oil has on the crank will still throw oil in the area you drilled and tapped.

Many a Honda block is vented this way too. Just not from the factory, as far as I remember. But many have a port that is well above the oil line and is then used to plumb a catch can.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top