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important question about valve spring pressure in my build

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codeofdastreets

10+ Year Contributor
504
2
Sep 25, 2008
dunedin, Florida
Im in the process of building a track 1g and I have stumped along with a possibly problem with valve spring seat pressure. Im running a gsc s3 cam with supertech duel springs and retaniors, gsc recommonded that I run 115-120 lbs of seat pressure beacause of rpm limit and boost im expecting to run.( 9200 rpm and 40psi of boost)..My machanie shop has shimmed the springs to the reccommend pressure and measured to make sure she springs dont bind which everything came out good..Now the part that im worried about, I was told by another dsm'er that spring pressure seat so high will cause my oem stock oil pump to fail and that I would need to get it modified :confused:...I spoke to english racing and gsc both saying I have nothing to worry about and that spring pressure has nothing to do with the oil pump.. I'd like to get some other thoughts on this..
 
Yes... English and GSC is correct.
Valve Spring pressure has no relation to the oil pump.
Valve springs do NOT recive any oil pressure, but get splash oil to help cool them.

Now, due to the higher spring pressures, that will load the timing belt more. So a top quality timing belt is in order.


Now the only way I can think of that the valve springs could cause the the oil pump to fail, is by setting the timing belt to tight w/ a BSE using a stubby shaft in the oil pump, causing the dirve gear to #### in the oil pump.
To keep this from happening, install the "Cut down" oil pump balance shaft that still uses the bearing.

Like this one.
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Pic orginaly posted by prostreetdsmx1
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Last edited by a moderator:
Yes... English and GSC is correct.
Valve Spring pressure has no relation to the oil pump.
Valve springs do NOT recive any oil pressure, but get splash oil to help cool them.

Now, due to the higher spring pressures, that will load the timing belt more. So a top quality timing belt is in order.


Now the only way I can think of that the valve springs could cause the the oil pump to fail, is by setting the timing belt to tight w/ a BSE using a stubby shaft in the oil pump, causing the dirve gear to #### in the oil pump.
To keep this from happening, install the "Cut down" oil pump balance shaft that still uses the bearing.

This is what I figured, would a oem belt be defenity out of the question, and if so what would be the best choice to go with?

Also I have a stubby shaft installed, motors in and car is almost finished, truefully trying to adviod taking the motor appart but I im a idiot because my machine shop reccomend this shaft and I never heared of it so I just went on with installing the stubby shaft :ohdamn:, but I heard if I get rid of the oem hydrolic tensioner and installed the ble tensioner and tighting it correctly that this will reduce my chances from the oil pump failing from to much stress, dont know if this is true so figured i'd post it up..
 
I read a intresting thread on timing belts in the past few weeks. But I forgot to book mark it.

One of the OE belts was Kevlar reinforced, Evo VII or IX. But you need to research this.

It may be worth the hassle of dropping the oil pan and pulling the front case to install the shaft.

On a 4g you can never play it too safe with the timing belt.
 
I read a intresting thread on timing belts in the past few weeks. But I forgot to book mark it.

One of the OE belts was Kevlar reinforced, Evo VII or IX. But you need to research this.

It may be worth the hassle of dropping the oil pan and pulling the front case to install the shaft.

On a 4g you can never play it too safe with the timing belt.

yeah I will defenity take this into consideration and read more about those timing belts
 
Jimmy is spot on, that is the thread I was thinking of.
 
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