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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
ok the pictures are going to be posted in order...so when you see Picture 1...that is picture one and 2 is next one uploaded...here ya go...did it tonightHave a general idea of where you are going to place the unit…..I am putting it on my steering column on top of my turbo timerFirst off you need to find a place to pull all your hoses and connectors through. I found that he steering column boot works well. PICTURE 1You need to tee the boost pressure host for the unit fromt the fuel pressure solenoid which is here ( PICTURE2 So it looks like this PICTURE3 Then run the hose through the firewall to the back of the unit and don’t forget the filter included. This is how I put my boost controller on the dash…. Picture 4On the solenoid, the com side is plugged into a t from the waste gate (teed into the hose that runs from the waste gate to the housing..) the black one Then the ON side goes to the vacuum hose from the intake to the BOV, the silver one in the pic. Make sure you take the plastic fittings out of all the holes…there is a third for an external waste gate. dont forget the rubber mounting things…you have to have them. PICTURE 5Run the wire from the unit to the solenoid and connect them. Then connect the wire to the back of the unit.All that is left is the power and ground wire… tapt he power wire into a power source that is on when the car is…I am using the power wire for the turbo timer…you can use anything that turns off when the car does For the ground…just ground it,Then just set it up guys…..its that easy…took about 2 hours…..but I ended up running the harness backwards and stupid mistakes like that….just take your time and have fun!! final product...night pic i know but hey picture 6
Here is the simple install of a MAFT for blow-thru use. When using DSMlink the white and purple wire are not used. So cut them shorter and tape the ends off (I tucked the 2 wires under the MAFT when I mounted it to the firewall).All you need to do is plug the connector from the translator into the stock MAS plug, make sure the pink wire from the translator lines up with the red wire on the stock MAS plug.The other plug goes to the actual GM MAS.Pull your stock MAS plug from the stock location back to where it comes out of the main engine harness. Then point it towards the firewall. I am going to attach pics to show where to mount the MAFT and how to run the wires so they are all tucked away nicely.
To start an unmodified 5-speed 2nd generation (95-99) Eclipse, the clutch pedal must first be fully depressed. This is accomplished through the use of a “Clutch Pedal Position Switch” which lets the ECU know when this has happened. The pedal is depressed, the switch goes from a closed to an open position, and the car is able to start.This is but a small safety feature to ensure the engine is NOT started while in gear. However, most turbocharged Eclipses undoubtedly have a turbo timer installed. This means that most are in neutral when turned off and thus still in neutral when started again.This mod is going to re-wire this safety feature to a toggle switch that will add an extra security measure to your car against theft. We will disconnect the wire harness from the Clutch Pedal Position Switch, splice a couple of wires into the harness, and then run them to a toggle switch that is mounted in a discrete place of your choosing.After complete:-The engine will not start unless the switch is toggled first. -Not having the pedal depressed while starting will keep pressure off the thrust bearings when they’re not fully lubricated in an attempt to avoid Crank Walk.
All right, many have asked this, and I've done it on my last 3 cars, two of which were dsms, a 95 2gnt, and a 99 gsx. So here ya go...Pick up (2) 20' lengths of 4-ga cable from your local stereo shop. The better the cable you get, the higher strand count and better conductivity. Color is your choice; I used stinger and lightning audio (silver and blue respectively). Also pick up a 4 or 8 pack of 4 ga ring terminals from your local stereo shop. The crimp on kind... be sure you have the tools to properly crimp these suckers on. Pick up either a circuit breaker or an ANL style fuse holder with the biggest fuse they have. I used a 200amp in my last car. It’s your choice, but pick up some new battery terminals as well. Some nice gold plated ones with the ability to really clamp down on some 4 ga. And finally, pick up either a 2 or 4 fuse distribution block. Not all stores have a 2 fuse, so the 4 will work fine.As far as drilling holes through the firewall... it's been 3 years since I did an install in a 1g, so another one of you guys will have to help him on this part.Run both the 4 ga leads along the side of the car, (or underneath if you know what you're doing) to the back of the vehicle.On a 2g-turbo car, run these down the passenger side, and drill your holes low on the firewall. I can take pics of mine. Be very careful on this part because you have a large group of wires going through the firewall there, and you have brake lines on the other side of the firewall as well. Check, double check, and then have someone else check again for you. Once you have the cables ran through, use some 3M strip caulk to seal around the hole so the cables don't rub against the newly drilled hole.On a 2gnt, I ran the 12v on the driver's side. You can drill through right where the clutch cable runs through. It’s never pretty, but it works. On the passenger side, you can drill through pretty easily if I remember correctly. This is where I ran the ground cable.Obviously double-check your cables running from the battery to the front of the car. Make sure there's no kinks or places where the cable's sheathing could be rubbed down and arc. Don’t hook the cables up to the battery until everything is all done.Under the hood (we're assuming you've drilled, and have 3-6'+ of 4 ga wire under the hood now), take the ground cable, and run that directly to where the factor ground mounts to the starter. (You can trace the factory ground to make it easier) you can remove that factory ground. Make sure you crimp that ring terminal on there solid. Now, you probably have 2-5'+ of grounding cable left...you should. Now, make another grounding cable to run from the starter, to the firewall. I'm not sure what the 1g has, but the 2g has an exposed ground cable that was around 6" long and bolted to the battery terminal. Again, make sure those ring terminals are tight. Now, depending on how much cable you have left, you may need to buy more. By now, you know how to handle this stuff, and you're sufficient with crimping on the ends. Find every factory ground under the hood, and replace it with your own. Ya know those grounding kits that sell for $89 bucks... you're now making your own for a fraction of the cost.Now for the 12v cable, once you have it through the firewall, you need to find a place to mount your 2 or 4 fuse distribution block. You’ll run the main lead into this block, and then run the lead from the starter, into one of the side ports of it, not through a fused end. If you can, replace that cable to the starter with your own 4 ga one with nice ends. But if you can't, that's okay. Now you've got probably 4 white wires and another black or red one that need to be hooked up. I just paired up the white ones and put 2 in each of the fused leads. I had 2 left after that, and used one for the fuel pump, and the last one was open. Just make sure you have them all hooked up somewhere on the fused side of that block. As far as fuse sizes. I just used 60's and never had a problem.Now check all your connections... then check em again...Now back at the battery, ground it directly to the battery, for the 12v side, use a circuit breaker or a big ANL style fuse holder with like a 200amp fuse, and mount that fuse as close to the 12v battery terminal as possible... I've seen what can happen when people don't do this part properly...Make sure the battery is secure. Either make your own battery box, or buy one, just be sure it's secure and the battery cannot move around. I would highly suggest using a dry-cell battery for the project. Like an optima red top. Putting a lead-acid battery in the back means it must be in a sealed enclosure, and that enclosure must be vented to the exterior of the vehicle. Not a super-hard task, but just get a dry-cell and don't think about it. Regardless it's still a good idea to seal up that battery compartment and vent it to the outside.Now for those of you with big stereos that think, hey now my amp's only like 2 feet from the battery, super... wrong... you now have more fun ahead of you. You can mount the amp back there and have it >2' from the battery, but you also have to run 12v, and ground leads directly from the battery to the radio in the front of the car... unless of course you like the sound of bees coming through your stereo in unison with your rpm needle. Running direct wires to your headunit will alleviate that wonderful thing we call ground loop noise. Also, be sure the radio isn't grounded or touching anything metal where it's mounted, or guess what, now your radio has become the path of least resistance for several of the little gadgets and gizmos under your dash...let there be noise! Like I said, a whole lot more fun for ya...If I missed or overlooked anything, please PM me and I'll address your ?s individually or add to this post. I’m on my 5th bag of M&M’s this morning…For those of you who want to argue that 4 ga is too small, I did it... with a yellowtop (not the greatest starting battery in case you didn't know) in 10 below, and it remote started every time. I don't know what a better test would be...
HKS Type 1 U.S Spec Turbo Timer InstallTo install this turbo timer you must splice into the main ignition harness. It's best to buy a wiring harness for the timer because it will make installation easier along with removal. I bought my harness for $15 from Slow Boy Racing. The timer must also be wired up to the parking brake switch since the parking brake has to be set for the timer to function. The HKS Type 1 also utilizes functions like speed and rpm display along with 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, 0-60mph, and 60ft estimates. To do this the timer needs a speed and RPM signal which can be retrieved by splicing into the ECU. After all that you ground it and hook everything up and you're good to go. I did this install on a 1990 Plymouth Laser and I'm not responsible if you blow you car or yourself up in the process ;-)1. Start but removing the negative terminal from the battery.2. Remove the lower dash covering below the steering wheel. 4 screws hold this on, 2 of which are hidden behind plastic tabs which can be popped off with a flat blade screw driver. Also remove the hood release latch. There are two screws holding it on then you can pop the cable off the latch. This will give you more room to work with the dash piece out of the car.3. Remove the two black air ducts. There is one screw per air duct on the left side and then they just slide right out.4. Locate the ignition harness which is above where the air ducts would have been. You may have to pull down the wires some to get to it. Disconnect it and connect your HKS wiring harness to it.5. Now you must splice into the parking brake sensor wire. Start by removing your shift knob by unscrewing it. Then pull out the ash tray and remove the screw below it. Remove the trim piece between the shifter and the radio (where the center console goes from horizontal to vertical). The two outer screws need to be removed. Now slowly lift the console out while doing so disconnect the two wires from the cigarette lighter and remove the lights from the cigarette light and the ash tray (the entire light socket will come out with a 90 degree twist).6. Locate the parking brake sensor wire. It's green with a red strip and next to the parking brake (duh!). Splice into this wire by shaving off 1-2cm of insulation with an xacto knife. Strip the end of the gray wire provided with the HKS Timer and wrap it around the exposed wire. Solder the connection and then cover it with electrical tape.7. The HKS Turbo Timer also utilizes functions which need an RPM and speed signal from the car so you must splice into the RPM and speed signal wires at the ECU. Start by popping of the beezel around the radio. Then remove the 4 screws at each corner of the radio. Now remove the radio by lifting it straight up while holding it flat and then pull towards you. As you're pulling it out disconnect anything connected to it holding it in the car. I had to disconnect three wiring harnesses, the antenna, and another cable connection. The radio will then pull out of the car.8. Pull off the carpeting on the sides of the lower center console. On the driver's side there are two plastic circle tabs. Pop them off with a screw driver and remove the two screws holding the carpet in place. Remove the carpet. Do the same on the passenger side except there are three screws and the carpet will not be completely removed, but it will allow you to peel it back for enough room to work. The ECU is positioned in a vertical manner and two bolts on the driver side hold it in position and one bolt on the passenger side. Remove the three bolts which are 10mm. Now work the ECU out of it's location and disconnect the three wiring harnesses. You can take the ECU out by sliding it out the passenger side where you peeled back the carpet. On the drivers side you can pull the three harnesses through to give you room to work on splicing wires.9. Now it's time to splice into the speed and rpm signal wires. Consult the PIN location provided in the instructions of the turbo timer to determine the correct wires to splice into or look at the diagram below (credit for the ECU diagram goes to Tom Stangl, I added the wiring in of course).. For the RPM Signal wire it was 4 pins from the right on the bottom row. This ended up being a black wire on the harness. Splice the brown wire included with the timer into the black wire. Then count 7 pins from the right and this is the speed signal wire which is yellow with a white stripe and also on the bottom row. Splice the blue wire into this. Solder everything and cover with electrical tape.*If you have a 2g use the ECU diagram included the the instructions or cunsult the ECU Pin List at Vfaq.com10. Now it's just a matter of running the wires to where you're mounting the timer. You must also ground the timer. The ground is the last wire left over and can be grounded anyone on the vehicle's body. Try to find a non painted surface, if needed sand some paint off. I grounded the timer at the lower ECU bracket bolt on the driver's side. Then put all the panels back on in reverse order. Also connect the parking brake, rpm signal, and speed signal wires to the Turbo Timer by matching up the colors and firmly pressing them together. Hook up the battery and check to see that everything work.Jason_99ozGS-Jan, 2004
Fuel pump rewire kit available at DSMotorsport.1) First thing I did was, disconnecting the battery. 2) Then, position the new relay were you want it. I placed it at the bottom of the fuel tank cover plate, under the back seat. I secured it to one of the bolts. 3) Run the new power feed line (red cable) from the engine bay to the location of the new relay. Underneath the battery plate, there are cables going into the car. I went through the rubber booth. The wire will come from behind the carpet, under the glove compartment. Then I ran it under the bottom door trim all the way to the back. 4) Connect the new power feed line to the positive battery connection. 5) Cut the new power line, after making sure the right length. 6) Pinch a yellow connector to the end of the new power line and hook it up to # 87 of the relay. 7) Underneath the car near the gas tank, I looked for a ground connection. I used a bolt that was holding a rail (use some sandpaper to clean off some paint for a better ground connection). I ran the cable through the booth that is connected to the cover plate. You have to pinch one of the circle connectors to the end of the wire, were you going to connect it to the frame. 8) Pinch a yellow connector to the other end of the new ground cable and hook it up to # 86 of the relay. 9) Unscrew the white rail that holds all the cables and cut some tape away. 10) There is a black and blue wire, this is the on you need to cut. Make sure it is the black and blue wire, because there is also a black wire. 11) You have to connect a piece of wire to the end of the black and blue wire that goes to the fuel pump, pinching a red or blue connecting sleeve. On the other side of the new piece of wire pinch a blue connector. And hook it up to # 30 of the relay. 12) Connect a piece of wire to the end of the black and blue wire that comes from the old fuel pump relay, pinching a red or blue connecting sleeve. On the other side of the new piece of wire pinch a blue connector. And hook it up to # 85 of the relay. 13) Use zipties / lock strips to secure the cables to the white rail. And fasten the rail back in place. 14) You can use the black cable sleeve to cover the cables going to the relay and tight them with zipties / lock strips. If picture is not shown, please go to my gallery. Thank you.
We all know an EGT gauge is necessary when you start changing boost levels and fuel trims. It's one of the cheapest forms of insurance we've got. This little gauge allows us to measure the temperature of the exhaust gases leaving the engine via the exhaust manifold.Installation is pretty straight forward. You need to tap the exhaust manifold, screw in the probe, run the wiring inside the car, and wire up your gauge. I took some pics of the process below:Here's a shot of the exhaust manifold before we got started. We removed the heat shield and got marked our number 1 runner.
Looking around at various articles and posts, I see everyone pretty much has the wiring of relays and solenoids down.But nearly everyone of them has a very important part of an inductive load type circuit missing...the flyback protection diode.Even most companies seem to forget about these when mechanical switches are used(and they help a lot with reliabilty).When you energized a coil(such as the ones in relays or solenoids) current through the coil creates potential energy.When this current is switch off, this potential energy has to goes somewhere.When a mechanical (toggle or pushbutton type) or a pressure switch(such as a Hobbs) is used ,a pretty nasty arc is created across the switch contacts, which can degrade the contacts leading to failure,intermitent operation, or at least a reduced life span of the switch.Electromagnetic Radiation(EMR) is also created and can (though not likely) lead to interference of other electronics, radios, nearby sensor wires, etc.When the relays or solenoids are switched by a module of some kind, the flyback spike can fry parts inside very quickely.The cure is a flyback protection diode.This diode will recirculate the current back through the coil and not through the circuit.They are easily obtained and very cheap(a few pennies a piece).This diode can be any common diode such as generic 1N4001 - 1N4004 rectifiers(made by several different companies and can be found at radio shack).Most companies that manufacture various control modules usually have protection installed, you should still always put external diodes on relays or solenoids.Exeptions do exist but you are not likely to encounter them.Installing is simple.. diodes have two leads and there is a silver or white band closest to one of them.This lead should get connected to the positive side of the relay or solenoid coil and the side with no band gets connected to the negative side.Make the connection as close to the coil as possible.This simple little part will make your circuit more reliable, plain and simple.Switches will last longer and be problem free.Hobbs switches aren't too cheap, and very annoying when they go bad.Mechanical switches are cheap, but still no less annoying when they go bad.
I got this off of www.2gnt.com , so full credit goes to them....:rolleyes:Introduction I am writing this Help file, to try and help all you people out there with SAFCs (Super Air Flow Converter from A’PEXi). I know how hard and frustrating it is trying to get help on something, and I hope that this answers most of your questions. This is all based on my experience, and what I have learned from others. If you have some comments to make, or some information tips to add, please feel free to submit them.Quick Background Information The SAFC is a computer that modifies the MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) signal to the PCM (a.k.a. ECU) of the car. This is really useful because it can "lie" to the car’s PCM about how much air it is getting. Accordingly the PCM will give more or less fuel to the engine, thus helping you tune. Added use of the SAFC comes from the fact that you can play with the settings throughout the RPM range with different throttle positions.Note: The SAFC does not officially support our Engine. Our MAP sensor is NOT listed in the manual. However, this isn’t terribly crucial to the way the AFC works. All that the SAFC does is VARY a signal (in our case, a voltage). So, don’t worry, the SAFC works perfectly fine, and what follows are some setup suggestions that have worked for me.Gauges & Sensors Before I start to talk about how to tune your SAFC, you have to know to whether your car is in tune or not! To do that there are a few things to note...The best way to know if a car is running lean or rich is to use a wideband 02 sensor (Oxygen Sensor). But these cost way too much (in the region of $800 and up!). The next best thing to do is read the signal off your existing 02 sensor.Basically, the voltage read from the Stock 02 sensor can be translated into three categories: Lean (too little fuel), Correct (Just Nice), and Rich (excess fuel). Unfortunately, the differences between the three categories are sometimes slightly blurred and it is hard to tell. For that reason you should always tune a little on the rich side.To make your life easier, I highly recommend a digital A/F Gauge (the Air/Fuel Gauge displays the 02 Sensor Voltage). By digital, I mean with a numerical readout. Any gauge that just has blinking lights is extremely confusing, and pretty much useless. The gauge I would recommend is the Jumptronix. By getting this gauge, you are also supporting a fellow DSMer.Along with your A/F Gauge, you need an EGT gauge (Exhaust Gas Temperature). The EGT gauge is used as a backup/check tool for the A/F Gauge. You basically tune the car using the A/F Gauge and you keep an eye on the EGT Gauge making sure that the temperature is within safe limits.Here are some guidelines for reading your gauges: For reading the 02 Sensor voltage (remember all readings are taken at Full Throttle). From OV - 0.88V (lean), 0.92V (just nice on pump gas) and 0.96V - Up (rich). Note: When you are at partial throttle (or when the car is idling), the 02 sensor voltages will cycle from and display anything from 0.2V and 1.0V. So don’t panic, it’s normal!If the temperature probe for the EGT Gauge is placed on the exhaust manifold, the temperature should NEVER exceed 1650°F (I would recommend using 1600°F as a max just to be safe). If your car is Turbocharged, and your probe is placed on the Downpipe (after the turbo), use 1400°F as your max safe temp (1450°F is cutting it dangerous).OK, now that all that is clear, let’s get on to using the SAFC.Setting Up the SAFC Correctly Once you have installed the SAFC, there are a just few things that you should set up before you can start tuning.First turn the key in the ignition all the way to the end, without actually cranking the engine. Basically you wan the SAFC to turn on with the engine off, so that you can set the initial SAFC settings without accidentally screwing up the engine.Tuning I will not give you any preset settings. This is for many reasons. All cars set up differently, and EVERY car has unique settings that you have set (no two cars are 100% identical, even if purely stock). Also, I am sure that someone lazy would just skip to this step, stick in some numbers, and do something stupid to their engine. Even though I am not liable, I still care....Lo-Throttle Tuning This is probably the hardest tuning to do, because the 02 Sensor Voltage is cycling while you are trying to set your settings.First start off by going to the Settings Menu and by choosing Lo-Thrtl. There you will see a graph. The left & right arrows, let you select the RPM setting at which you want to tune at, and the up & down arrows let you change the percentage, in 1% increments.Start off at 1000rpm. This is the most important setting for people with raised fuel pressures, or bigger injectors, because it basically helps you set your idle. What you want to do is make your car idle smoothly. 99.9% of the time most cars idle RICH (i.e. too much fuel). First you take note of the cycling voltage. You will notice that the voltage keeps flashing a maximum value. This is the value that you should keep paying attention to. If the value is ABOVE 0.92V, you have to start leaning down the fuel. On the SAFC press the down arrow and do it slowly so that you do it in 1% increments. You want to keep on leaning the fuel until the maximum voltage that shows up is around 0.88V-0.92V. Once you have that set up, let it idle for 30 seconds and make sure that it is still cycling with a correct max value. Sometimes the PCM tries to compensate for the SAFC changes. If the value has changed a little, then just simply lean it down or richen it up as necessary.Now you can keep doing this tuning routine for other RPMs by slowly stepping on the gas pedal to rev and hold the engine at 2000rpm. This is actually quite hard and requires some practice. After you tune 2000rpm, tune 3000rpm. At this point you have a pretty good idea of the graph you are setting up, and in my experience, for every next rpm increment just go down 1% from the previous rpm setting.Example: 1000rpm -16%, 2000rpm -15%, 3000rpm -14% etc...HOWEVER, when you reach 6000 & 7000 rpm drop 2% from the previous valuesExample: 4000rpm -13%, 4500rpm -12%, 5000rpm -11%, 6000rpm -9%, 7000rpm -7%This is a good technique to use as a starting point for tuning.What you have to do next is take a nice little drive on a long empty road, with a passenger. You need the passenger, because you will run off the road otherwise! You can really get carried away staring at the cool blinky-lights!OK so, now you get to about 2000rpm in third gear and make sure that the SAFC is displaying rpm and throttle position (you have to make sure that your TPS value is less than what you set the Lo_Thrtl — about 3 5%).Now, just drive keeping the TPS below you Lo-Thrtl setting and checking your rpm and 02 sensor voltages. Remember if the value is below 0.92V at a certain rpm, just richen it a little (up arrow, to increase fuel) and if it is above 0.92V lean it up a little.Remember, sometimes, it takes more than a 1% change on the SAFC to make the O2 sensor voltage change.I am assuming that you have read (or at least skimmed) through the SAFC manual. You should know things like where to find the Settings or the Display menus.In the Settings Menu, go to Th-Point. This is where you tell the SAFC which settings it should use. I recommend Lo 35%, and Hi 50% throttle. This is based on my driving habits; you should drive around a little and see at what throttle percentage you consider "low throttle".Back again in the Settings Menu, select NePoint. This is where you set the RPM increments for which you would like to later tune the SAFC. The points that I recommend are 1000rpm, 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 4000rpm, 45000rpm, 5000rpm, 6000rpm, 7000rpm. I like the 4500rpm setting because you need that extra point for tuning at 4500rpm, as the 4000-5000rpm range is quite crucial especially at high throttle.In the etc. menu, go to Sensor Type and select Pressure. Start off with In 06 & Out 06. For some unknown reason (maybe because the SAFC was NOT made for our car??) the setting In 07 & Out 07 works better in some cars.. It doesn’t depend on the year of the car...Now, Go back one screen and enter the Car Select menu and choose 4 Cyl and the Thr arrow pointing UP.This basically covers the crucial settings. The can play with the rest of the settings like VFD Bright later (Vacuum Fluorescent Display Brightness, basically the brightness of the screen!).Now turn on the car and make sure it idles! It will probably take two tries to turn it on the first time. This is because when you installed the SAFC, the car battery was unplugged and the ECU had lost all power. You did disconnect the battery..right?Of course if the car doesn’t start, then make sure that the battery is hooked up :-) Lost of people forget this because they are so excited after the install...Hi-Throttle Tuning Hopefully by now, you have a good idea of how the tuning works, and you are comfortable playing around with the SAFC.First, start off by filling in the values for 1000rpm and 2000rpm. These should be set at the same values you used for Lo-Thrtl. When you are flooring the gas pedal, these rpms fly by so fast that it really doesn’t matter. As a baseline for the 3000rpm setting, use the value for Lo-Thrtl at about 3% richer.Example: LO-THRTL: 1000rpm -16%, 2000rpm -15%, 3000rpm -14% HI-THRTL: 1000rpm -16%, 2000rpm -15%, 3000rpm -11%For the 4000 - 7000rpm start off with the SAFC at values at 0%.Well, you know the routine by now: floor the car in 3rd or 4th gear, watch the 02 sensor voltages and make tuning adjustments. Remember don’t make huge drastic changes in once step. Do it reasonably gradually. Also don’t ever forget to keep your eye on the EGT gauge. Lookout for excessively hot EGTs (see above for the values, depending on your setup).Some things to note: The settings at 6000 & 7000rpm are usually pretty similar to each other. At these rpm settings, I would usually recommend running slightly rich like at about 0.94V. This is to be on the safe side in order to try and prevent knock which usually can occur at these high rpms.Some other things to note for both Lo-Thrtl & Hi-Thrtl. After you have tuned the SAFC to run nicely in the first four gears, remember to check the settings in fifth gear. Due to the gear ratio of the fifth gear, sometimes the settings at higher rpms are too lean/too hot (EGT). The only way that we have found to get around this is to re-tune the car, on the fly, to run richer when you are going to be traveling at high speeds. In any case, you should always keep an eye out for your EGTs. This is your warning that something is running lean.Blue Wire Mod What is it? Well, after you have installed your SAFC, you will notice that some wires from the harness are unused. That is because they are there for applications of the SAFC in other cars.One of the unused wires is blue, and the idea here, is to hook it up to the 02 Sensor. If you do that, and you go to the etc. menu and select the Sensor Check option, under #2 you will see your 02 Sensor voltage.Now this may sound very nice and convenient, because it means that you don’t need a Digital AIF Gauge. However, personally, I highly recommend against it. Here are a few reasons why:- It’s a pain navigating between the Hi-Throttle and Lo-Throttle settings and the Sensor Check menu, especially while driving, when you need to be able to make quick adjustments and see the results very fast, so that you can continue adjusting the tuning graphs.- People have reported getting wrong 02 Sensor readings when using the blue wire mod. It is suspected that the SAFC puts too much extra load on the 02 Sensor reading and so the reading is somewhat affected. This is especially true if you have hooked up more than one gauge to the 02 Sensor.- The blue wire is actually meant for a second Air Flow Meter on some Nissans. Some people suspect that the SAFC sometimes tries to send a signal back through the wire. Now if it’s connected to the PCM (ECU).. . .you can guess the rest.
Air/Fuel gauge Connection1. Remove the driver's side access panel from the center console. There is one Phillips screw and one push-in plastic screw that holds the access panel on.2. There are four plastic connectors plugged into the ECU, directing a myriad of wires going to and returning from the control sensors and relays. Connector 1 has 26 terminals, connector 2 has 16 terminals, connector 3 has 12 terminals, and connector 4 has 22 terminals. The terminal numbers are shown below. (Look at the ECU with your head under the steering column, with your left ear pointing to the floor. The connectors are from left to right, connectors 1, 2, 3, and 4.)2G Turbo DSM ECU Terminal NumbersConnector 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26Connector 2 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46Connector 3 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62Connector 4 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 924. The hot wire to power up the A/F gage should be teed onto the ECU power supply wire at terminal number 25. The ground wire for the A/F gage should be teed onto the ECU ground wire at terminal number 92. The air-fuel signal wire for the A/F gage should be teed onto the front O2 sensor return signal wire at terminal number 76.5. Replace the access panel on the center console. You're done! Happy boosting!
I'm new to writing tech articles, so I'll give this one my best shot. Mods: I'm not sure if this goes in the body mods forum, move it if you'd like). Onto the good stuff...Things you'll need:- Two 2'x4' boards of 3/4" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). You can use 5/8" too, but you might as well use the thicker density. Plus, the dimensions for this box come out perfect for the JL sub I was putting in.- Cheap carpet from home depot. I bought a 4'x6' sheet for $6. I only covered the top portion of the box, but I had enough left over to cover it all.- Elmers wood glue.- Silicone sealant (in the caulking bottle) as well as a caulking gun.- Staple Gun with staples.- Drill with 1 small bit and phillips head.- A jig-saw or saws-all. Doing this without powertools would be tedious.- 1.5" Drywall screws (you'll probably need about 30).- 3M Spray Adhesive- Whatever speaker grille you want, I got the really solid Kicker one (in case I needed to put stuff on top of the sub).- One of those speaker connectors from Radio Shack. You really only need this if you plan on taking it in and out, you can hard wire the sub to the amp if you'd like.Notes:You're probably asking why all this work for only one 10" sub? Well, I had 2 JL 10w3s in a JL Powerwedge box, and the thing was DAMN heavy. I'm no weight freak, but when I drove the car without the sub box in it... it made a hell of a difference. Plus the box had ripped out the securements for the original carpet, so when I'd take a corner, the sucker would slide around. I didn't like that all too much. Also, 2 10's was a bit overkill for all that indie rock/hip-hop I listen too :)How to build it:1) Essentially, you're building two boxes and joining them together. I did this because when I took out the spare tire, I wanted to leaving the mounting equipment there in case I wanted the sell the car, or whatever. So the smaller box will fit in the forward lower gap between the main brace and the front of the well. Then the larger one will slot in perfectly above it.2) Cut out the wood like it is shown in the drawing. Note: The sides for the bottom box should be 3.25" all the way around, NOT 3.5".3) Assemble the bottom box by using glue first. Let the glue dry, then secure the peices together with the drywall screws. Then caulk the inside joints with silicone (be generous, might as well do a good job now to avoid shitty sound later).4) Do the same to the top box by gluing, screwing, and then siliconing.5) When the top box has set, you should be able to fit it in snug (take out the spare tire and the jack...). You should put two small pieces of 3/4" wood together (your MDF is 3/4"... how about that?!?) on top of the main brace for the spare tire, and the box will sit snug on that.6) If it fits snug, pat yourself on the back. Only 4 more hours to go :)7) Figure out where the small box should line up below the bigger box. You dont want it touching any sides of the well.8) With some crafty measurements and excellent geometry skills, cut out an insert in the bottom of the big box to join the small box to it. Glue it together, then screw and silicone, etc. You want this sucker airtight.9) You might need to sand down the edges of where the opening of the small box meets the big one, to fit the magnet of the speaker. It all depends on which sub you used. I had to shave probably 1/8" off each side (top and bottom).10) I don't really have any measurements for the top panel, I just cut it to fit where I wanted it to go with the jigsaw.11) Match up the big box to the top panel. The pictures below will give you some idea on how this pig is supposed to look.12) Cut out the diameter for the sub in the top panel (it must be right over the smaller box, so the magnet will fit in it.13) Roll the carpet out, then spray the top surface of the box with the spray adhesive. Then lay the carpet on top of it, and using a ruler or something, rub out the top so its nice and smooth (no bubbles or creases please!).14) Shave off the excess carpet, leave about 2-3" on the sides so you can fold it under the top and staple it to the bottom for the clean look.15) Cut out the hole for the speaker connector at the bottom of the box (or wherever). The package will have the exact measurements you need to cut it perfect. Push the connector unit in halfway, then silicon right under the sides before you push it down. Then screw it in and connect it to the speaker.16) Hook up that sub and drop it in. Screw it in and put the grill on.Connect that sucker to your amp and DON'T turn it on yet! This sounds sucky, but you can't bump it or else the silicone wont have enough time to dry. Just test it to see if it works and your getting some thump and then let it sit overnight.Here is your (my) result!Enjoy and feel free to ask me any questions.
The rear oxygen sensor on the exhaust for the 2Gs may look intimidating to remove/install, but in reality i actually quite easy. Take a look at this step-by-step guide.1.) jack up the car and get a huge wrench that will fit the oxygen sensor. PREP yourself. 2.) Remove the oxygen sensor. This may take A LOT of effort, but believe me, it comes off. Just sit there and apply a lot of force, pulsating help. 3.) You'll see the o2 wire runs up through the underbody and a little plastic thing will be there protecting it. Yank the plastic part off so that you should now see a hole underneath your car. 4.) Open your driver-side door. Roll the seat all the way back. Remove the driver-side SIDE CONSOLE plastic piece so that you can remove part of the carpet. 5.) Fold the carpet back. There a few (i think 4) plastic screws holding the carpet in place. Remove these and fold the carpet back. Now feel along side of the console area and ou should seee the o2 sensor wire. There is tape holding the wire down. Find that tape and REMOVE IT. 6.) Now jiggle the wire a bit to make sure what you're grabbing is the actual o2 sensor wire. 7.) Go back underneath your car, and yank the wire towards you. The o2 sensor connector should come out through the little hole. Unplug the connector. 8.) Bolt in your new oxygen sensor, mate your new o2 sensor connector, push the wiring back inside underneath the carpet, and then put everything else back into place.** Removing the carpet to get to the wire may seem a very intimidating, but it's actually very easy. Take your time, have patience, and save yourself some $. =)Best,Dan
This test will help with a no start condition. There are several sensors that are responsible for supplying a complete circuit to allow battery voltage to make it to the coil pack. These sensors and electrical components are, but not limited to, Vehicle speed sensor, Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, ASD Relay, PCM/ECU, and several other components.This is a portion of a test from the Chrysler Diagnostic Powertrain manual. It is not complete because some tests require the use of the mopar hand held diagnostic computer. I have added some steps where the condition created by the dealer computer can be recreated with it.Checking the coil: Disconnect plug wires one and four from the coil pack. Measure the resistance across the two points where the wires attatch. The resistance should be betwee 10.9 and 14.7 K Ohms. If it is not, replace the coil pack.Disconnect plug wires 2 and 3 and check them as well. If the resistance is out of that range, replace the coil pack.If the resistance is within spec on both 1&4, and 2&3 test the resistance of the spark plug wires. The wires should each read below 15 K Ohms, if they do not, replace your spark plug wires.Remove the spark plugs and Inspect them. If they are need replacing, do so.This step may require a helper.Disconnect the coil connector. While trying to start the car, measure the voltage at the middle pin of the harness. It is the ASD Relay output (Automatic Shutdown Relay). The voltage should be above 10 volts. If the voltage is not above 10 volts then there is an open circuit or high resistance in the ASD Relay circuit. If the voltage is above 10 volts, the coil could be bad.There are more tests that may be required to properly diagnose a no start condition. Doug
This is a test to determine why the starter motor will not engage. This type of condition is called a no crank condition. It is different from a no start condition in that the starter motor does not engage the flywheel/torque convertor/flexplate at all. A no start condition means the starter engages and the crankshaft spins but the engine will not fire up and run.Does the starter make any noise when you attempt to start the vehicle? Also try and have someone else start the car and you hold/touch the starter to see if it is engaging. If you don't feel anything you may have either a bad ground or incomplete circuit from the battery to the starter. If the starter clicks then you may have a bad starter, starter solenoid or siezed engine.Is the car a manual or automatic?If the car is automatic, try moving the shifter mechanism back and forth from park to any other gear. If the vehicle then cranks, the shifter linkage may need adjusting or the PRNDL switch may need replacing. This is inside the transmission on the 41TE (2gnt a/t) and requires removal of the valve body.There should be a ground wire at the bottom bolt of the starter. Make sure that's attatched properly.The ASD Relay is responsible for allowing the starter motor to engage when commanded. If the car is auto, it's the middle relay on the firewall next to the battery. If it's a manual, it's the one closest to the driver's side of the car.There's four wires in it. There's three in a row on what will be known as the left side and two on the right with a larger gap in the middle. The locking tab will be on the left. Pin A is black with a red tracer, is the top left one, and is the ignition switch output circuit. Pin B is the top right one, is black with a yellow tracer, and is the starter relay output circuit. Pin C is Black with a red tracer, is bottom right, and is Fused B(+). Pin D is Black with a yellow tracer, is bottom right, and is pnp switch sense.The single wire that plugs in to the bottom side of the starter is the starter relay output circuit. You should have continuity from the single wire connector on the starter to Pin B at the relay. If you don't, there's an open circuit between the starter and the starter relay.Disconnect the ASD relay. With a multimeter in Voltmeter mode check the Fused B(+) pin. There should be battery voltage( 11.6v or more) present. If there is not, the circuit is incomplete from the battery to this pin in the relay connector. Check your fuses in the PDC (Power distribution center next to the battery) as well as the ones in the Junction Block (next to your left foot as you drive). If voltage is present continue.This next step may require a helper. With the relay still disconnected, measure the voltage at the ignition switch output circuit while turning the key in to the crank position. The circuit should have battery voltage present (10.0 volts or more). If there is not, then there is a circuit open from the ignition switch to the ASD relay. If voltage is present, continue.Make sure the transmission is in park or neutral for this next step. Breifly jump a wire from the starter relay output circuit (Pin b) and fused B(+) circuit (Pin C). If the starter motor engaged replace the starter motor relay. If the starter motor did not engage, did it click when the wire was jumped?Yes: reinstall starter relay, check battery cables for high resistance. Also attempt to turn the engine over 360 degrees manually. If the engine spins freely, replace the starter motor. If it does not: the engine may be locked up or something is binding the flywheel/torque converter/flexplate.No: disconnect the starter realy output wire from the starter solenoid. Measure the resistance from the starter relay output wire at the starter to the ASD relay. Is the resistance below 5 ohms?Yes: reinstall starter relay, check battery cables for high resistance. Also attempt to turn the engine over 360 degrees manually. If the engine spins freely, replace the starter motor. If it does not: the engine may be locked up or something is binding the flywheel/torque converter/flexplate.No: repair the circuit from the starter to the ASD relay for an open or high resistance condition.Let me know what you find. Doug
This isn't DSM specific, but as DSMs are getting older, these problems are becoming more common.Difficulty Level(1-10, 1=easy): 5Required tools:test light multimeter (optional)1. Be sure the ignition lock is in the "OFF" position, all lights are off, and all doors are closed. Be sure that nothing is plugged into the lighter, drawing power.2. Remove the negative battery terminal (if your car has an underhood light, disconnect it).3a. Place the test light between the battery and the cable. The light should not illuminate. If it does, you have a draw somewhere. To test your connection, leave the test light hooked up, and open a door. The light should get very bright, this is normal. Or the meter should show a large amp draw.3b. Place your multimeter on the lowest amp setting. Place the test leads on the battery and the cable (it doesn't matter which one goes where). 30-40 mA is an acceptable draw (to power the ECU memory, radio memeory, etc.). Any more than that is unacceptable, and will kill the battery after a short period of time.4. If you do have a draw, leave the test light or meter hooked up. Go to the fuse box. You'll have to remove the courtesy light fuse, or else the open door will keep the test light illuminated/meter showing a draw. If you remove the courtesy fuse, and the light goes out, the draw was in that circuit, so check all courtesy lights, door switches, etc. If it stays on, the draw is still present, so start pulling and replacing fuses one by one. When the test light goes out, you've found the circuit that has the draw. You'll need to check all the parts/wires on that circuit for a broken wire or shorted component. Usually, it turns out to be something simple and you'll find it right away. If not, you'll need to consult a manual to see the wiring diagrams and be able to trace all the wires to check them for a short.If you are still unable to find the short after consulting a diagram, there are short finding tools available. You can also make your own (I'll post instructions for making and using the tool later).If it turns out that you don't have short, and you're battery is still dieing often, the battery can be no good, or you're alternator could be bad. To check the battery, you need to put a load on it. This can be done at most Pep Boys, Auto Zones, etc.To check the alternator, hook up your mulitmeter (on the DC voltage setting) to the positive and negative battery terminals. With the car running, you should be seeing at least 13 volts (which is very low). 14 volts is good. Turn on the headlights and wipers, the voltage should still stay above 13, if not, replace the alternator.
Keep in mind that this does not apply directly to DSMs but to modern cars in general. I figured since I haven't contributed much at all to this site I'd type this up for anyone about to do this theirselves.First of all, a bad alternator will show up during load tests as low voltage & a current output problem. even when the regulater is bypassed & full voltage is applied to the alternator field, charging voltage & current will not be up to specifications.Alternator removalBefore unbolting the alternator, disconnect the battery to prevent damage to parts if wires are shorted. Most alternators are attached to the front of the engine with two or three bolts. Loosen the bolts & remove the belt. Then remove the alternator. When removing the wires from the back of the alternator, note their location & wether special insulating washers are used. If you make a mistake in reattaching wires to the alternator, system damage can occur. Depending on vehicle design, the alternator may come out from the top or bottom of the engine compartment. If it must be removed from the bottom, you may need to remove a splash shield to gain access to the alternator mounting brackets & bolts.Alternator disassemblyTo dissassemble an alternator, first scribe marks on the outside of the housing. This will aid you in reassembly. When clamping the alternator in a vise, be carefull not to damage the housing or bend the fan. Use the directions in a shop manuel to disassemble the alternator. An Allen wrench may be needed to hold the shaft. Use a puller, if needed, to remove the pulley. Remove the alternator through-bolts. Tap the drive end frame with a plastic or brass mallet. Slide the end frame from the rotor shaft. As you remove the remaining alternator parts, watch how everything fits together.tech tipDepending on the type of repair, you may not need to completely disassemble the alternator. For examble, when replacing worn alternator bearings, you do not have to remove the diodes, built-in regulater, or other unrelated parts.Keep all your parts organized & clean. If you get grease on the brushes , replace them. Grease or oil will ruin the brushes.CAUTION!Do not soak the rotor, stator, diode pack, regulater or other electrical components in solvent. Solvent could ruin these components.Alternator rotor serviceA bad alternator rotor can have a bent shaft, scored slip rings, open windings, or shorted windings. Make sure the rotor is in good condition before assembling the alternator. There are several tests designed to check an alternator rotor. A rotor winding short-to-ground test measures resistance between the rotor shaft & the windings. The ohmmeter should read infinite resistance to show no short to ground A rotor winding open circuit test measures the resistance bwtween the two slip rings. The meter should read low resistance(2-4 ohms). This would indicate that the windings are not broken. A rotor current test checks the windings for internal shorts. Connect a 12-bolt battery & an ammeter to the slip rings. Measure the current & compare it to specifications. Typical rotor current should be 3-6 amps. Replace the aternator rotor if it fails any of these three tests.Alternator stator serviceA bad alternator stator can have shorted or open windings. Inspect the stator windings for signs of burning. An open winding is usually detected using an ohmmeter. To test a stator for open or grpunded windings, connect an ohmmeter to the stator leads. They should produce a low reading. If the reading is high(infinite),the windings are broken & the stator is defective.Alternator diode serviceBad alternator diodes reduce alternator output current & voltage, & may also cause voltage ripple that can upset computer system operation. Faulty diodes are a frequent cause for aternator failure. It is important to check the condition of the diodes when rebuilding an alternator. There are various methods used to test alternator diodes: ohmmeter, testy light, diode tester, and a scope test. The ohmmeter is the most common testing tool used when the alternator is disassembled. When using an ohmmeter or a test light, the diodes must be unsoldered and isolated from each other. Some special diode testers, however, will check the condition of the diodes with all the diodes still connected to each other.ohmmeter test of diodesTo use an ohmmeter to test the diodes, connect the meter to each diode in one direction and then the other. The meter should read high resistance in one direction and low resistance in the other . This will show you that the diode is functioning as an "electrical check valve". The test should be performed on each diode. A bad diode can either be shorted or opened. An open diode will have a high resistance in both directions. A shorted diode will have a low resistance in both directions. In either case, the diode must be replaced. If diodes were unsoldered for testing, they must be resoldered during installation. After pressing in the new diode or obtaining a new diode pack, use a soldering gun and rosin-core solder to attach the diodes leads. Heat the wires quickly to avoid overheating the diodes. Excess heat can ruin a diode.Alternator bearing serviceWorn alternator bearings or dry alternator bearings produce a rumbling or grinding noise during operation. They can become loose enough to upset alternator output by allowing too much rotor shaft movement. When rebuilding an alternator, it is common practice to replace the bearings. The front alternator bearing, also called the drive end bearing, is usually held in place with a cover plate and small screws. To replace the bearing, remove the screws and plate and lift out the old bearing. The rear alternator bearing, also referred to as the diode end bearing or slip ring end bearing, is normally pressed into the rear end housing. It may be pressed or carefully driven out of the alternator housing for replacement. If the bearings are relatively new and you do not replace them, make sure you put a moderate amount of grease into the rear bearing. the front bearing is usually sealed and cannot be greased. To check the action of the front bearing, rotate it with your finger while feeling for roughness or dryness. Replace the bearing if there is any sign of failure.Alternator brush serviceWorn brushes can affect the output voltage and current of an alternator. As the brushes wear, spring tension and brush pressure on the slip rings will be reduced. Inspect the brushes and measure their lenth. When the brushes are worned beyond specifications or soaked with oil or grease, replace them. Many technicians simply replace the brushes whenever the alternator is disassembled.Alternator assemblyAfter you have inspected and tested the components of an alternator, your ready for reassembly. Alternator construction varies; refer to a service manuel describing a DSM. In general, assemble the alternator in the reverse order of disassembly.The following is a typical alternator assembly. Keep in mind this is a general article & it may not apply to your DSM.1. Install of the components in the rear end frame: electronic regulater, diode pack, rear bearing, terminals, and nuts. 2. If the brushes are not mounted on the outside rear of the end frame, you may need to use a piece of stiff wire or a small Allen wrench to install the brushes. Push the brush spring and brush into place. Then, slide your wire or Allen wrench into a hole in the rear end frame. Slide the wire the rest of the way through the hole. The wire of Allen wrench will hold the brushes out of the way as you slide the rotor into the housing. 3. Fit the front end frame into poisition and check the alignment pins or marks. Install and tighten the through-bolts. 4. Pull out the piece of wire or Allen wrench. You should hear the brushes click into place on the slip rings. 5. Install any spacer, the fan, front pulley, lock washer, and nut. Torque the pulley nut to specifications. Then, spin the rotor shaft and pulley to check for free movement. The rotor should spin freely without making unusual noises.Test alternator output on a bench tester if you got one. In not, test the charging system output after alternator installation. Alternator installationWith the battery still disconnected, fit the alternator onto the front of the engine. If needed, install the wires on the back of the alternator first. Hand start the bolts and screw them without tighting. Check the condition of the alternator belt. Replace it if needed. Slip the belt over the engine and alternator pulley. Make sure the belt is aligned properly on each pulley. Adjust belt tension and tighten the bolts. Reconnect the battery.So there ya go. Teh basics of alternator service. You still awake? :confused: Anyways, sorry if this doesn't belong here or anything. Oh, & if Im incorrect on anything, please hit me up with a pm & I'll correct it.;)
This article will cover the isntalling of the power meter. I won't get into the features just the install.The install is very simple. You need a power,ground,and you must tap into the vehicle speed sensor wire(after the governer if you have one). On a 2g this wire#86 on the ECU.Here are the pin-outs for the 1G and 2G's:http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-1G.html http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-2G.htmlIt's just that simple.Another questions I get PM'd alot about is the drivetrain loss setting. I used 0 as it is shown in the manual for all turbo cars.A copy of the instruction manual can be found here: http://www.rs-competition.ru/blitz/pdf/Blitz_Powemeter_i-D_manual.pdf
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