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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
In this thread Ill show you how to install a vac pump. The reason you would do this is to help launches when your brakes cant hold you back. While sitting at the line with boost, there is no vacuum going to the booster. This is mainly for people with a auto trans.You will need wire, wire strippers, crimpers, relay, hose, check valve, and the pump. You need find where you want to mount your pump. This is the pump I got.You need to remove the hose at the brake booster. You need to put a T in this line. On the remaining two ports, one goes to the booster and the other is going to the pump. In the line going to the pump is where you need a check valve put in place. Remember the pump is providing vacuum.Next you need to cut...
The 2g's have alot of problems with the horn buttons not working. I took a few pictures and figured I'd put put something in print to go with it.First and foremost ALWAYS check your fuses first. Check both the fuse block located just above the left foot area inside the car and check the power distribution center (fuse block under hood) for blown fuses.I prefer to check most electrical problems at opposite ends first and then work my way towards the middle of the circuit. The horn under the left front head light (on 99RS models at least) and the switches at the steering wheel are the ends of the system. It's easier to get to the horn switches themselves rather than the horn.So the first thing you'll want to do is...
Part 2 of the pictures for wiring a Dynakek ARC-2 box to a 1990 DSM using the 1990 stock connectors for plug and play status!For the beginning of this thread go here ----> https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/arc2-box-plug-and-play-in-a-1990-dsm-part1.524945/Here are the rest of my pictures from the install.
Since there are a few members that would like to know how a simple relay functions, I drew up this rough drawing to show just how a simple relay operates. I hope it helps out those that are "electrically challenged". Marty
Original information found here: http://www.angelfire.com/fl5/import/germantail.htmlOne of the steps found there was not needed, and some of the instructions were a little confusing so I modified it a bit while everything is still fresh in my mind.Parts needed: 2 8-ohm, 20-watt resistors from Radio Shack(Part #: 271-120) Some spare wire, you may want to pick up a roll of speaker wire at Radio Shack Wire cutters and strippers 10mm deep socket Flathead and Philipshead screwdriversNow, on to the fun:The amber-cornered European/Japanese taillights will work with the American version of the 2G Eclipse as long as you make some modifications to the wiring. Hopefully you have access to instructions on removing your...
I'm going to show you how to hard-wire your SD kit and Flex Fuel sensors instead of using an adapter harness for those either redoing their engine harness or you simply don't have the funds for the adapter harness.There was very little information on MAF wiring that I could find but maybe I wasn't using the right keywords.. Regardless, here's credit to this thread for having what I needed: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-maft-wiring-diagram-very-simple.442096/ After reviewing that thread, I then traced all the MAF wires across my harness to confirm where they went. There is a diagram that includes the ECU pin #'s a few pictures down if you're making a new harness. My car is a 98 GSX- your wire colors may vary but the positions of...
INTRODUCTION I notice there are not that many install guides for installing the Apexi Super AFC, usually its because the links are so old you can't find them. So I decided to write one up with pictures and good diagrams. I'm doing this write up for the 2G turbo's, I am not sure if the 1G or any others car is the same. I do know for sure that that the 2GNT install is totally different as the ECU is in the engine bay and it uses a MAP sensor. I also did this with the first SAFC, for the AFC, SAFCII, or SAFC NEO I am not sure if it is exactly the same. Another note is that this install guide will cover basic installation/wiring and setup. For tuning info you'd best look at the many other guides on tuners.INSTALL TIME This took me...
Wiring an Dynatek ARC-2 box to a 1990 DSMI have had a few members ask about how to wire in the ARC-2 box to our bastard 1990 year DSM's so I tried to take a lot of pictures and put together an article that can help and DOES work, including your tach.Wiring colors to use an ARC-2 box in a 1990, using 4 pin plugs to match the 1990 harness for plug and play operation. The 4 pin connectors can be bought at Sheridan Engineering’s connector section. You may be able to source the plugs elsewhere but that is where I got all of mine. If you do this and the box ever gives you trouble, you can just unplug the box and plug back into the coils to get you to your destination.When doing this conversion, you will be changing the stock ARC-2 3 pin...
After doing much research, I wasn’t able to find much information on wiring 300m coils in parallel, all the DIYs are in series (wasted spark). I’m not going to go into details on why you would wire it in parallel vs series, but here is how it’s done.Wire all the lower pins of the coils together to the single pin side of the blue divider on the triangle plug. (#1 on the diagram) Wire the top pin of coils 1&4 together to #3 on the triangle plug. Wire the top pin of coils 2&3 together to #2 on the triangle plug.Due to the many different combinations (1g/2g, 6 bolt/7 bolt, ecu year, 1g cas in 2g, etc) If you complete this wiring harness and your car will not start, simply switch wires 2&3 on the triangle plug (this will reverse...
Sometimes modifications come with unintended consequences, or, at the very least, cause more work to be done for a correctly functioning car.Along with the LED taillight center section mod, we decided to tint the reverse lights a little darker, to draw less attention to them. The look was right.Well, as all of us know, the reverse lights aren't all that bright to start with, so it was basically like having no lighting help back there at all after the tinting. And DSMs don't have the best rear visibility to start with, especially the Spyders.Just install brighter bulbs, right? Turns out that some LED bulbs have an elongated shape that makes them not fit into a standard housing, preventing the lens from being reattached.We...
To be clear, I’m not an electrician. Just a weekend warrior. So my blower motor stopped working and this is how I went about diagnosing it and I’m not 100% sure if it’s the correct way. Remove the glove box and you’ll see the blower motor connector in red.The yellow is your relay that’s secured by a screw you cant see that holds a c clamp around the relay.I used a test light to check for power at the blower connector with the key on and blower on. Wasn’t getting power so for now I can rule out the motor. When switching the fan speed you should here the relay click. I tested power there and it only came on on one wire when switching from speed 3-4 only. Idk if that’s normal. So I removed the resistor. It’s a pain to remove...
My radio kept cutting in and out. I didn’t see any write ups about this. Noticed it was fuse contact related. Wiggles the fuse and radio would cut in and out. To tackle this, you’ll need to be on your back under the steering wheel and be patient.Previous owner must have had the fuse in and out a billion times.Begin by disconnecting all the connectors on the front side of the block.The yellow connector on the top is a pain to remove with the block secure so remove it when you remove the block. Also when reinstalling, connect that same connector before you secure the block.Now that everything is off the front except for the yellow connector, time to remove the block. Remove the. 10mm bolt at the bottom and slide it off the...
First is to make sure you have slack because the engine likes to move in all sorts of directions and wires expand and contract with temperature. Then I like to strip the wires about a half inch from the ends. Don’t twist them up yet! Get your other end and push the frayed ends into each other then twist them together! Oh and before this step put shrink tube on the wire. Or you can use electrical tape but it’s ugly and will unravel over time. After twisting them together, use your soldering iron to heat the wire ends up and add solder! Now cover with shrink tube and shrink it with heat. Now you have a proper good looking connection.
I have fought with DSM alternators for years and I'm sick of the $120+ cost of replacing a weak 65amp stock unit. There are rewound units that put out 105 and 135amps but at a cost of $175-$250 I say no thank you. If you have a few basic tools a a little bit of time here is your answer.Tools needed:basic hand tools: wrenchs and sockets small grinder or dremel soldering ironParts needed:Saturn Alternator from a 93-99 Saturn 1.9L dohc ( 1996 Saturn SC2 dohc )I did the mock-up on a spare motor and have also done this on my car. It took about 30 minutes using a dremel.The benefit is a more powerful and CHEAPER alternator.Saturn, meet Mitsubishi:The alternator needs to be clearanced to allow it to rotate...
We've all seen good and bad attempts to light the center taillight sections on 2Gs. Although they look good when finished, most of us don't have the time or skills to hand-build led boards.Here's how we lit the center section of our 2G Spyder for $75.Disclaimer: This documents how we upgraded our taillight. You are responsible for your own modifications, and any results that happen. You will have to remove some interior body panels to access the center section attachment bolts, and to access the wiring harness. We did not use voltage regulators in this application, which can protect the leds from over or under voltage. You may wish to include those if you do this mod.Disassembling the center section is covered in other...
So I recently had my nearly new 17 month old oem 75 amp alternator go funny on me and it was time for this GALANT swap so I ordered a unit from the UK only to find out that the UK Galant is different then the US Galant!Im doing this because I could not find a part number to work with to help me search and it WILL save time in the future for others! so this should help people when they need to do this swap!this here is a UK Galant alternator matched down to the correct year and from the same engine 4g63 vr4 but this is 100 amps and I even tried the 90 amp 2.4 unit aswell but that was the same style aswell,this is the link Mitsubishi Galant VI | 100 Amp ALTERNATOR | 2.0 16V (A1939) - The Starter Motor & Alternator Company...
Ok not reinventing the wheel guys I know this topic has been covered but I'm a guy that likes pics with how-to threads. And I couldn't find a lot on this certain subject so here it is..some of the steps I had to copy and paste when it came to pics because I just forgot to take a picture while doing the swap..My Saturn alternator swap was done on my 1990 eagle talon. I decided to do this swap after going through 3 reman alternators from autozone that were suppose to be good even tested good but were bad! I also did it because the Saturn alternator was cheaper then an oem replacement and last longer under extreme heat and puts out more Amps then the OEM unit.1.you will have to do a lil grinding on the alternator itself and on the...
This is a write up on how to wire in a AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor in a 2g and log it using dsmlink V3. Since V3 is installed on your car its possible to remove your MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor and in its place wire in a MAP sensor to log actual boost.If your still running the 2g intake manifold you'll also need to get the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter, which will let you mount the MAP sensor in place of the MDP. It can be purchased here --> RRE 2g MDP/MAP sensor adapter and to order it you need to call them, their online ordering system sucks but they do answer their phones.Heres what the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter looks like installed on a 2g intake manifold with a AEM MAP sensor mounted to it.With that being...
Have been doing some wiring tonight and being red-green colorblind it's tough since both color wires look to be same color. Then realized that getting a red color light would make red wires stand out while green color light would make green wires obvious. In practice that worked really well and a piece of RGB LED strip worked nicely to get different color lighting. Hopefully this little trick will help anyone else out there who can not see colors 'properly'.To add to the though: with an LED strip controller it is possible to tweak light's color until desired color wires stand out the most. This works really nice when a diagram says what color it is since light can be set so that is really easy to find that exact color wire in the...
Okay here is my understanding, and what worked for me.The gear selector is still connected to the neutral saftey switch (grey thing on left) Their is no modification needed for that.From the NSS, i will solder the diodes directly to the new wires going directly to the solenoids in the transmission in the order the picture shows. In doing so i will add 2 wires in the cab for a switch to activate 4th gear, which will only work if the selector is already in 3rd.also my 2g wire colors are different, from the NSS on the 1g the colors i have are.1.big red. blue stripe -not needed 2.big black. white stripe - not needed 3.yellow. red stripe -goes to solenoids 4.yellow - goes to solenoids 5.yellow. black stripe - goes...
Since this topic has come up a few times lately I am submitting my wiring diagram for properly wiring your fans to a toggle switch. See the diagram and you should be cooling good in no time!
Vehicle : 1987 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-RLED CONVERSION PART 1 "FROM SUPER BRIGHT LEDS"Reg bulbs194 = 270 MA x3 1156 = 2.10 Amps x6 1157 = 2.10 Amps x6 27mm Festoon 0.100 MA x326.31 Total Bulb AmpsL.E.D's194 = 160 MA x3 1156 15 SMD = 350 MA x2 1156 26 SMD = 470 MA x2 1156 3x2 = 260 MA x2 1157 26 SMD = 250 MA x6 27mm Festoon .055 MA x34.30 AmpsTHE REMOVED BULBS "BIG AMP DROP"BULBS ON THE LEFT VS LED'S ON THE RIGHT "PARKING LIGHTS"TWO BULBS AND FOUR LEDSALL BRAKE LED'sBOTH DOORS AND DOME GOT THEM TOOFRONT PARKING LIGHTS ARE EXTREMELY BRIGHTFRONT PARKING LIGHTS ONLY, NO FOGS!!!!!!!Invoice from Led Conversion Part 1Youtube video of my car after the install cause alot of people on a SQ...
Ok I figured this out while working on the wiring harness for my 1g turbo engine swap. There doesn't seem to be any information on this reroute at all, in the forums or articles, I am writing this tech article to describe it.The 1g factory routing of the engine harness makes no sense whatsoever. All the wires enter the engine bay on the passenger side, behind the battery. The bulk of the harness goes along the firewall to the driver's side, wraps around the intake manifold, follows the fuel rail, and ends at the thermostat... Back on the passenger side. This is what the factory route looks like:There are several threads on here about wire tucks. Hiding the wire harness behind the fuel rail so that the engine bay looks cleaner...
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