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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
Sometimes modifications come with unintended consequences, or, at the very least, cause more work to be done for a correctly functioning car.Along with the LED taillight center section mod, we decided to tint the reverse lights a little darker, to draw less attention to them. The look was right.Well, as all of us know, the reverse lights aren't all that bright to start with, so it was basically like having no lighting help back there at all after the tinting. And DSMs don't have the best rear visibility to start with, especially the Spyders.Just install brighter bulbs, right? Turns out that some LED bulbs have an elongated shape that makes them not fit into a standard housing, preventing the lens from being reattached.We found Diode Dynamics #1156XP80 offered the brightest, whitest light, and fit comfortably into the backup light housing.Not that many members need help replacing the backup bulbs, we did take photos of the process to show how quick and easy these fit.Before Picture:Remove the lens screw. It doesn't have to come all the way out to free the housing.Pull to remove the housing and twist (counterclockwise) the socket assembly to expos the bulb.Old bulb:New bulb. Virtually the same size.Reinstall the backup light housing and screw the lens cover on snuggly, and you are finished.Put on your sunglasses and test!Final result. We can actually SEE the illumination of things behind now while backing up.
To be clear, I’m not an electrician. Just a weekend warrior. So my blower motor stopped working and this is how I went about diagnosing it and I’m not 100% sure if it’s the correct way. Remove the glove box and you’ll see the blower motor connector in red.The yellow is your relay that’s secured by a screw you cant see that holds a c clamp around the relay.I used a test light to check for power at the blower connector with the key on and blower on. Wasn’t getting power so for now I can rule out the motor. When switching the fan speed you should here the relay click. I tested power there and it only came on on one wire when switching from speed 3-4 only. Idk if that’s normal. So I removed the resistor. It’s a pain to remove the two screws. Wear mechanical glove bc the metal around the glove is extremely sharp.I used a long needle nose in one hand from the bottom and used the other the pull the connector off. It’s held in with two 9/32 screws. 1/4 inch short socket works best.Off to the parts store.Hope so his helps someone!
My radio kept cutting in and out. I didn’t see any write ups about this. Noticed it was fuse contact related. Wiggles the fuse and radio would cut in and out. To tackle this, you’ll need to be on your back under the steering wheel and be patient.Previous owner must have had the fuse in and out a billion times.Begin by disconnecting all the connectors on the front side of the block.The yellow connector on the top is a pain to remove with the block secure so remove it when you remove the block. Also when reinstalling, connect that same connector before you secure the block.Now that everything is off the front except for the yellow connector, time to remove the block. Remove the. 10mm bolt at the bottom and slide it off the bolt. Now it’s only secured by a tab on top that slides onto an aluminum tab.Time to disconnect all the connectors on the backside and the block is free to remove completely.Now to take the block apart. Take a picture of the front so you know where everything goes.Remove all the fuses and relays. Insert small flat head screw drivers and wedge them by the tabs.Take another small flat head and gently remove the cover.Be gentle when preying them apart. I did bent a couple of tabs. Pry the black cover from the white. You might get overwhelmed at this point but the metal peices can only go on a certain way.Fix what you have to. I could have honestly just shoved foil in there like I did from the begin but I wanted to see if there was another other way to fix it.Anyhoo. Below is how to reassemble.Place all the metal peices onto the white side.Secure them so they’re flush and not touching one another or else you might start a fire. Then mate the two and again be gentle. Can’t stress that enough. It’s all about lining them up. If you’re having trouble, you probably have a bent tab.This peice goes on last.Now the cover for the back side. Again straight pins and be gentle. It should slide in without force.Now just install back in the car in reverse order. Backside connectors and starting from the top. Before securing the tab on top, make sure to install the yellow connector on the front side.Hope this helps someone.
First is to make sure you have slack because the engine likes to move in all sorts of directions and wires expand and contract with temperature. Then I like to strip the wires about a half inch from the ends. Don’t twist them up yet! Get your other end and push the frayed ends into each other then twist them together! Oh and before this step put shrink tube on the wire. Or you can use electrical tape but it’s ugly and will unravel over time. After twisting them together, use your soldering iron to heat the wire ends up and add solder! Now cover with shrink tube and shrink it with heat. Now you have a proper good looking connection.
I have fought with DSM alternators for years and I'm sick of the $120+ cost of replacing a weak 65amp stock unit. There are rewound units that put out 105 and 135amps but at a cost of $175-$250 I say no thank you. If you have a few basic tools a a little bit of time here is your answer.Tools needed:basic hand tools: wrenchs and sockets small grinder or dremel soldering ironParts needed:Saturn Alternator from a 93-99 Saturn 1.9L dohc ( 1996 Saturn SC2 dohc )I did the mock-up on a spare motor and have also done this on my car. It took about 30 minutes using a dremel.The benefit is a more powerful and CHEAPER alternator.Saturn, meet Mitsubishi:The alternator needs to be clearanced to allow it to rotate to be tensioned.Grindingmore grindingGrind "A" to match "B"GrindingYou retain the stock bracket and tensioner. Flip the tensioner to clear the fan blades. You will also need a longer bolt with a nut and lock washer to attach the tensioner to the alternator since the saturn unit is not threaded like the stock DSM alt.Wiring is pretty straight forward, the large yellow wire goes to the F(black) wire on the saturn connector and the small black wire goes to the L(black w/ white stripe) on the saturn connector.
We've all seen good and bad attempts to light the center taillight sections on 2Gs. Although they look good when finished, most of us don't have the time or skills to hand-build led boards.Here's how we lit the center section of our 2G Spyder for $75.Disclaimer: This documents how we upgraded our taillight. You are responsible for your own modifications, and any results that happen. You will have to remove some interior body panels to access the center section attachment bolts, and to access the wiring harness. We did not use voltage regulators in this application, which can protect the leds from over or under voltage. You may wish to include those if you do this mod.Disassembling the center section is covered in other threads in this forum. We used the traditional oven heating technique to soften the lens-to-housing glue.The toughest challenge was to get the silver "paint" off of the inside of the center section lens. Turns out the difficulty was because Mitsu used a lacquer paint that "melts" into the red lens. Great for longevity, but not for removing. We experimented with different techniques and chemicals, but the only thing that worked, without damaging the red lens, was careful sandblasting. As you can see in the picture below, the blasting was strong enough to removed the silver layer, but not flatten the "bumps" on the lens. This is important so that the look of the lens matches the other taillights when done. We paid our local favorite powdercoating shop $30 to blast this.Next, we cleaned and painted the inside of the center section housing with chrome paint, so that it would reflect the indirect lighting of the leds to provide a light bar look.We researched and found the perfect length, adhesive, weather-rated led strips, in warm white. The design was to have one strip on the top of the housing, and one strip on the bottom of the housing, that came on with the parking lights.We added second strips, both top and bottom, to come on when the brake lights activated. This way, the brightness of the center section will increase in brightness at night, just like the outer taillights do.The part number of the adhesive led strips is WFLS-WW30-WHT from superbightleds.com. $10 each times four (4).Here is the picture of the painted housing, with the four strips of leds installed, two in the top and two on the bottom. NOTE: It looks like all four led strips are on the bottom of the housing in this shot, but that is the reflection of two strips off the chrome housing:Now for the wiring. The wire needs to pass through the housing, so we drilled a hole in the corner of the housing and a matching larger one in the sheetmetal behind the housing, in order to get the wires next to the wiring harness. It is important you line up the holes exactly since the housing bolts up tight to the body sheetmetal and will pinch and cut the wires if it is not directly in line. Drilling a slightly larger hole in the body metal allows you to shift the center section around for best alignment, when remounting.Wiring Connections:Running Lights: One set of wire leads from each, the top and the bottom of the housing, connects to the parking lights in the harness, behind the left taillight.Brake Lights: To make sure the second set of leds only came on with the brake lights, and not one of the turn signals, we wired one set of wire leads from each, the top and the bottom of the housing, to the factory center high-mounted brake light. In our case, since this is a Spyder, the factory brake light is in the trunk lid, directly over the center section, but coupes still use the same connection into the harness.Here is a photo of a quick wiring test using the parking lights only:After testing your wiring, finish bolting the center section to the car, reattach all interior panels, and clip the center lens into the lighted center section.Below are pictures of the finished working project.Running lights:Brake lights:We hope this has helped give some of you that want to light your center taillight section, a method to do this, without spending too much time or money.
Not enough space in your favorite car's engine bay? Do you really not like that eye-sore of a battery next to your 4g63? Not wanting to add hundreds of dollars in breakers and inline fuses?Well utilizing the stock fused components you still can toss your battery in the trunk or behind the passenger seat.What you'll need:-25 dollar 4 terminal distribution busbar with plastic cover (TSIAWD666 uses one also) ~readily available on ebay-2 Gauge wire for extending the positive post connection (7 to 8 feet to reach behind seat, roughly double it to place the battery in the trunk) ~[2 dollars a foot] I went to Advance Auto for all the wires-4 Gauge wire to ground the negative (2 gauge works as well but not necessary) ~[Most likely clearance item so pretty cheap] Advance Auto-Terminal with 2 gauge wire (30" is the longest you can buy from a parts store) ~Advance Auto-Have a sharp knife or some kind of tool to remove shielding for 2 gauge wire-I used a torch (walmart adaptor with propane tank) to solder ring terminals on the large gauge wireNOTE if you want to be NHRA legal add a kill switch into the positive wire to the outside of the rear bumper, and a sealed battery box.First undo the positive connections to the stock battery terminal. Take these terminals and mount them into the new 4 terminal busbar, including any aftermarket power wires you had as well. The alternator wires from the fuse box you will need to widen their ring terminals or replace them (I opted to make the stock ones work, and I stacked them on the same lug in the bus bar)Remove the passenger seat and rear seats, and pull the carpet up to the hinge of the door. Run the power wire through the big wire loom's path (behind the glovebox on the firewall). It is shielded by a large plastic guard, so very little risk of cutting your wire and grounding it out, but I put some rubber around it anyway. Pull that wire into the bay and place the ring lug into the bus bar.Run the power wire under the carpet, I ran it through the stock amp cutout also and then back under the carpet so I can add a killswitch or circuit breaker for a little safety net that sits under the passenger seat.The wire then needs to go under the back seats and under the trunk carpet lining and connected to the battery. Pop clips hold the carpet, and levers to take out the rear seats.The ground wire connects to the negative battery post and is bolted to the upper rear seat’s mounting bolt.You can place the battery wherever you please in the trunk, mine is in front of the spare tire mount, with padding around it to prevent movement (and the trunk floor sits on top of it). A battery box is recommended, but not necessary if you aren’t trying to be NHRA legal. Just secure it so it doesn’t fly when you get on the throttle.
So I recently had my nearly new 17 month old oem 75 amp alternator go funny on me and it was time for this GALANT swap so I ordered a unit from the UK only to find out that the UK Galant is different then the US Galant!Im doing this because I could not find a part number to work with to help me search and it WILL save time in the future for others! so this should help people when they need to do this swap!this here is a UK Galant alternator matched down to the correct year and from the same engine 4g63 vr4 but this is 100 amps and I even tried the 90 amp 2.4 unit aswell but that was the same style aswell,this is the link Mitsubishi Galant VI | 100 Amp ALTERNATOR | 2.0 16V (A1939) - The Starter Motor & Alternator Company Ltdthis unit did not work due to a few reasonslink to the pics are in here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/454082-100amp-galant-alternator.htmlas you can see from them the 4 pin location and power and even the upper arm is all wrong but thats not the big problem as it still would work like that that main ISSUE is the twin arms at the bottom are to close together!so over a course of a few hours over 2 days I find a part number from a site called maniacelectricmotors ALTERNATOR FOR 1996-1998 GALANT 2.4L - 2.4L '98-'96 ALL - ALTERNATOR 13585 this is the correct unit for this swap!in the UK I found this in only 1 place/company and they only had 1 in stock and that was from Wood Auto Supplies Ltd :: ALT31219it went on real easy and works great and I cannot be happier with this small but very worth while upgrade.so just to recap the part numbers you need to cross reference when buying an alternator from a galant are A2T82791, A2T82791ZC, MD310997, A2T82792, A2T82792ZC, MD327535on a side note the company maniac electric motors also do upgraded units (higher amps) aswell if anyone wants more power from there alternator High Output 150 Amp Alternator 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L W/Turbo & Many More... - HIGH OUTPUT MITSUBISHI ALTERNATORS
Ok not reinventing the wheel guys I know this topic has been covered but I'm a guy that likes pics with how-to threads. And I couldn't find a lot on this certain subject so here it is..some of the steps I had to copy and paste when it came to pics because I just forgot to take a picture while doing the swap..My Saturn alternator swap was done on my 1990 eagle talon. I decided to do this swap after going through 3 reman alternators from autozone that were suppose to be good even tested good but were bad! I also did it because the Saturn alternator was cheaper then an oem replacement and last longer under extreme heat and puts out more Amps then the OEM unit.1.you will have to do a lil grinding on the alternator itself and on the block were the alternator mounts. i did this with a grinding wheel took 5min Next your gonna grind on the block make the shape of A look like B 2. I cut the stock alternator bracket down and drilled a hole in it to mount the alternator to. Obviously before drilling this hole pointed out you wanna keep in mind you need to keep the correct amount of tension on the alternator belt. 3. When wiring the Saturn pigtale up which has 3 wires black,brown and red I did not use the red wire I simply bent the wire up and shrink wrapped it cause I thought it looked cleaner so you can't see it in the pic. The black wire on the Saturn pigtail goes to the yellow wire on the factory alternator harness. The brown wire NEEDS to go to a 12 volt sorce that is turned off and on by the ignition. If you wire the brown wire on the pigtail to the black and white wire on the factory alternator harness the alternator will stay on reguardless if the key is off or on and will drain your battery. YES. In the pic I have the brown wire hooked to a black and white wire but it is a switched 12volt source! The thicker yellowish looking wire that bolted to the stud on the back of the stock alternator also bolts on the stud on the back of the Saturn alternator and now you should have a functioning charging system
This is a write up on how to wire in a AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor in a 2g and log it using dsmlink V3. Since V3 is installed on your car its possible to remove your MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor and in its place wire in a MAP sensor to log actual boost.If your still running the 2g intake manifold you'll also need to get the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter, which will let you mount the MAP sensor in place of the MDP. It can be purchased here --> RRE 2g MDP/MAP sensor adapter and to order it you need to call them, their online ordering system sucks but they do answer their phones.Heres what the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter looks like installed on a 2g intake manifold with a AEM MAP sensor mounted to it.With that being said I'm currently running an Evo III intake manifold so mounting & vacuum source locations could be different depending on your setup. The good news is that no matter what IM your running wiring in the AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor will be the same. First things first, your going to need to run to the store and grab a few things if you don't already have them. Parts: - (1) AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor - (3) 18ga. to 22ga. butt connectors (they're the red ones) - (1) roll of black electrical tape - (1) set of wire cutter, stripper, & crimper pliers - (1) 3/4" rubber insulated clamp - (1) can of NOS energy drink - (1) RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter (IF YOU'RE RUNNING A 2g INTAKE MANIFOLD)Wiring & Install: Unplug your MDP connector, or dig it out from the wiring harness going to your fuel injectors and TPS (heres a link to its exact location --> MDP sensor). Once you pull it out cut back the insulation around the (3) wires going to it, using caution not to cut the wires themselves.Cut the (3) wires right at the back of the connector, you won't be using it again and your going to want all the length you can get so you can mount it where you want. After you cut the wires pull out your electrical pliers and strip the insulation off, exposing the wire inside. (Use the 18ga. insulator cutter on your pliers)Grab the supplied harness that came with your AEM MAP sensor and pull the insulation off the ends of the wires, they are pre-cut if you buy it new so using the pliers isn't necessary.Attach the butt connectors to the AEM MAP sensor harness and crimp them tight around the exposed wires so there are no loose connections.Once your 100% certain the butt connectors are tight on the MAP sensor harness connect them to the exposed wires on the MDP sensor harness. The MDP harness has a green & black wire, green & yellow wire, & a solid black wire. The AEM MAP harness has a red, green, and black wire.**WIRE THEM TOGETHER LIKE THIS**- MDP green/yellow wire to MAP red wire. - MDP green/black wire to MAP green wire. - MDP black wire to MAP black wire.Then after checking that the butt connectors are secured onto the wires use the original MDP wire insulation and cover as much of the butt connectors as possible. Then, using the black electrical tape, wrap the cut insulation and butt connectors up to keep them from being exposed to the elements.To keep your MAP sensor logging accurately you need to secure it to a place it won't move around, I chose the top of my intake manifold but the firewall works too if your emissions have been removed. Just don't go crazy, you want the vacuum/boost line going to it as short as possible so it see's the boost as soon as it hits the IM.I pulled my now MAP sensor harness under the IM and then around the back of it, on the firewall side.Then using the 1" rubber clamp I secured the MAP sensor TIGHT to the top of my Evo III IM. I'm also running a catch can off the valve cover so I had an open boost source off the IM where the PCV valve was sourced to. I ran a vacuum line from the IM to the AEM MAP sensor and made sure all the connections were good and tight before I close the hood and moved onto getting everything setup in dsmlink.Logging your AEM 3.5 MAP sensor in dsmlink V3: I'm going to assume you already know how to connect to dsmlink with your laptop and pull up the Live Settings menu. Once you open up the Live Settings menu click the ECU Inputs tab, you should then see something like this on your screen.Since you wired in the AEM MAP sensor in the MDP sensors location, your going to click the Factory/none text next to the MDP and it will bring up a drop down menu to select from. We just wired in an AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor so select that from the drop down menu, it will look like this on your screen.Once thats selected you need to do (2) things... 1. Select the Save Pin Assignments button 2. Click the Lock Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor box under the ECU Input Locks for Factory Code sub menu.Once everything is setup like it should be your ECU Inputs tab should look like this.Now all you need to do is start a datalog (F12) and then open your displayed values menu (F9) and find AEM3.5Bar in the displayable values and double-click it, bringing it over in the displayed values.If you made it this far your G2G and you did everything correctly! If you notice that with your car off your AEM35Bar will still log -.2 in/Hg when it should be at 0. Honestly -.2 in/Hg is pretty damn accurate but if it bothers you just double click the AEM3.5Bar in the log and pull up its preferences. You'll see in the MAP sensor preferences window there's a spot to input your altitude. I'm at sea level and to get it to read 0 I had to bring it to 400 ft.Happy Boosting and if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
Have been doing some wiring tonight and being red-green colorblind it's tough since both color wires look to be same color. Then realized that getting a red color light would make red wires stand out while green color light would make green wires obvious. In practice that worked really well and a piece of RGB LED strip worked nicely to get different color lighting. Hopefully this little trick will help anyone else out there who can not see colors 'properly'.To add to the though: with an LED strip controller it is possible to tweak light's color until desired color wires stand out the most. This works really nice when a diagram says what color it is since light can be set so that is really easy to find that exact color wire in the loom. It's also helpful when tracing a wire in a loom.
For questions about rewire, or just a guide to the rewire, these videos should help you. Gst or gsx owners both can get info from this as well. Hope these help some people out and thanks for watching. This is just the first segment i embedded. The other segments are titled the same so check em out and good luck with the rewire. Any questions or comments just post em on youtube and ill reply back.
Okay here is my understanding, and what worked for me.The gear selector is still connected to the neutral saftey switch (grey thing on left) Their is no modification needed for that.From the NSS, i will solder the diodes directly to the new wires going directly to the solenoids in the transmission in the order the picture shows. In doing so i will add 2 wires in the cab for a switch to activate 4th gear, which will only work if the selector is already in 3rd.also my 2g wire colors are different, from the NSS on the 1g the colors i have are.1.big red. blue stripe -not needed 2.big black. white stripe - not needed 3.yellow. red stripe -goes to solenoids 4.yellow - goes to solenoids 5.yellow. black stripe - goes to solenoids 6.white. black stripe - not needed 7.red. blue stripe - not needed 8.blue. red stripe - 12v power wire needed 9.black. yellow stripe - not needed 10.black - ground needed 11.black. red stripe - starter trigger wire neededI have 2 extra plugs I' made mine out of just in case something went wrong.here is the Nss plug andd the above mentioned wire colors, the clip on plugs are facing upward. I noticed on the solenoid plug, the grey actually plugs into the orange and the orange plugs into the yellow for some odd reason, Make sure you swap these around and don't get confused.Any questions please ask as I am very willing to go into more detail wherever you made need any help. After all we are here to help each other, not tell each other to search.
Eclipse to Talon Tail Light Wiring ConversionFor the longest time, I've wanted to convert my Eclipse's tail light wiring to function like the Talon's where the brake and blinker lights are completely separate from each other. If you do this with a hard top Eclipse, it could be as simple as swapping a section of the harness, and the blinker relay. However, for the Spyder, that isn't possible (without major splicing of the two different harnesses). This setup can still be done, as many members on this forum have done it, but I haven't seen any write-ups. With help from 97eclipseNT, I have completed the wiring modification, and the tail lights operate the way I want them to. I give him credit for the info I'm providing, but I'm just the one who decided to put the info together for everyone else.Tools needed: Cross-tip screwdriver Flat-tip screwdriver Wire cutters Wire strippers Wire crimpers (if using wire connectors) Soldering iron (if not using connectors; preferred) LighterParts needed: Electrical tape Solder media (if soldering; preferred) Wire connectors (if not soldering) Heat shrink Wire Zip ties (optional)Step 1: Accessing the flasher relay & cutting the wire. Use your cross-tip screwdriver to remove the center console, and then your stereo. Also remove your rear seat cushion at this point. The flasher relay is located up above and to the right of your stereo's mounting location. It's the flat black box with the 10-pin connector plugged into the bottom.Disconnect the harness from the relay. On the connector plug, locate the SOLID GREEN wire. There are NO stripes on it, but there may be the little silver rings, that's fine, it's still considered solid green. This is the ONLY wire on this plug that connects to the brake switch that is plugged into the brake pedal. Cut the wire. It doesn't matter where you cut it, but getting a soldering iron in this area can be tricky.Step 2: Extending the wire. I cut the wire closer to the plug so I'd have more wire, and therefore could have a little more room to solder the wires. Before starting all this, I rummaged through my stock pile of hacked DSM wire harnesses and pulled out a section of matching solid green wire. You don't have to color match, but it's easier if you do, so you can retrace the wires later if needed. Plus I have OCD, so not color matching wasn't an option. Make sure you have enough to reach all the way to the tail lights. I think I used somewhere between 6 and 10 feet. Now, you can solder your extension wire onto the brake signal wire you cut from the flasher relay. Or you can use wire connectors, but soldering is the best way to go. Unfortunately, this was the only location I got to solder because my iron ran out of fuel, and I didn't feel like running an extension cord for my plug-in iron. I'll redo the others later though. Once you've secured the extension wire to the signal wire, route it through the various components under the center console, and run it under the carpet between the console and rear seat cushion. Run the wire over to the driver side of the car. I zip-tied the wire along the factory harness to keep it all organized and to keep the wire stationary. Now you can run the wire under the seat back and into the trunk.Step 3: Modifying the tail light connections. First off, remove all your trunk panels so you can run the wire and access the tail light bulb connections. I ran the extension wire to the center brake light wire first. I cut the brake wire and connected it to my extension, and then another extension to run to each of the tail lights.Don't connect to the factory harness in this location. Since the signal wire was cut from the relay, there shouldn't be any brake signal from the factory harness. Continue running the new wire to the driver side tail light. I choose to use the inner-most light location for my brake lights. There's a black (ground) wire, a solid green (blinker) wire, and a green w/white stripe (brake signal) wire. Cut both green wires and splice your new wire to the green w/white stripe wire. This is the method for using the factory 1157 (dual filament) bulb sockets. I have chosen to use 1156 (single filament) bulbs and sockets from my spare wire harness collection. If you choose to use the 1156 sockets, cut the black ground wire as well and wire the 1156 ground to it, and its' green/white wire to the factory green/white wire. Continue the extension to the passenger side light housing and repeat all this to the exact same bulb socket. Give yourself extra slack in the wire so you don't get it pulled on when you reinstall all the panels and zip-tie it in place if you wish. Now the 2 inner lights will illuminate when you hit the brakes, but they won't illuminate with the blinkers.Now you just have to reinstall all the parts you removed. Be sure to use heat shrink on all splice/solder locations to protect your work. Before I swapped the bulb sockets, the center brake light would flash with the flashers while the brakes were on. Now that I have swapped to the 1156 bulbs, this has gone away. But, the center brake light now doesn't come on while running lights are on, and brake applied. I'll continue to look into this issue until I have perfected everything. I will update this write up as necessary.In this video, you can see the center brake slightly changing illumination with the blinkers. It didn't do this when first hooked up, so I believe it was doing this because the battery I'm using needed to be charged. It's an 18-volt drill battery. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/HLzO2Y5nUOY?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>This video is just blinkers by themselves. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/pu_8WX7JfTQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Since this topic has come up a few times lately I am submitting my wiring diagram for properly wiring your fans to a toggle switch. See the diagram and you should be cooling good in no time!
Vehicle : 1987 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-RLED CONVERSION PART 1 "FROM SUPER BRIGHT LEDS"Reg bulbs194 = 270 MA x3 1156 = 2.10 Amps x6 1157 = 2.10 Amps x6 27mm Festoon 0.100 MA x326.31 Total Bulb AmpsL.E.D's194 = 160 MA x3 1156 15 SMD = 350 MA x2 1156 26 SMD = 470 MA x2 1156 3x2 = 260 MA x2 1157 26 SMD = 250 MA x6 27mm Festoon .055 MA x34.30 AmpsTHE REMOVED BULBS "BIG AMP DROP"BULBS ON THE LEFT VS LED'S ON THE RIGHT "PARKING LIGHTS"TWO BULBS AND FOUR LEDSALL BRAKE LED'sBOTH DOORS AND DOME GOT THEM TOOFRONT PARKING LIGHTS ARE EXTREMELY BRIGHTFRONT PARKING LIGHTS ONLY, NO FOGS!!!!!!!Invoice from Led Conversion Part 1Youtube video of my car after the install cause alot of people on a SQ facebook group wanted to see it. Note: The fogs ARE NOT ON! Car was also off so its battery voltage ONLY!!!Part 1Part 2Trucklite L.E.D. specs: Low Beam (top on) - 1.80 Amps - 1300 Lumens High Beam (both on) - 3.60 Amps - 2600 LumensCurrent bulb - 60/55w: Low Beam - 4.58 Amps - 910 Lumens High Beam - 5 Amps - 1500 Lumenshttp://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-23625-truck-lite-27450c-pair-of-rectangular-led-5-x-7-truck-jeep-xj-yj-headlights.aspxAlso using this headlight harness which provides another 1.5 to 2 volts to each headlight. Whatever the alternator output is, is what the harness gives the headlights. Its plug and play. One plug hooks into the factory harness so the stock buttons work, hook up power and grounds then each plug at the headlight.http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--9003-Heavy-Duty-Headlight-Upgrade-Wiring-Harness-PRD7540.aspxLed Flasher and its silent so no clicking..... https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/cf12anl-01-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/781/835/
Ok I figured this out while working on the wiring harness for my 1g turbo engine swap. There doesn't seem to be any information on this reroute at all, in the forums or articles, I am writing this tech article to describe it.The 1g factory routing of the engine harness makes no sense whatsoever. All the wires enter the engine bay on the passenger side, behind the battery. The bulk of the harness goes along the firewall to the driver's side, wraps around the intake manifold, follows the fuel rail, and ends at the thermostat... Back on the passenger side. This is what the factory route looks like:There are several threads on here about wire tucks. Hiding the wire harness behind the fuel rail so that the engine bay looks cleaner. However, without rerouting the coolant sensor, o2 sensor, and cam shaft angle sensor (CAS) plugs, there will always be an unnecessary mess of wires wrapped around your intake manifold and fuel rail.I did the reroute with the wire harness out of the car. It was very easy to do this way but it can also be done with the harness in the car. You would just need to unplug pretty much everything past the idle speed controller (ISC), remove the loom, reroute the wires, re-loom, and then plug everything back in.Now for the actual reroute. With your harness exposed, trace the wires for the CAS all the way back to where the wires for the ISC branch away from the main harness. The CAS is located next to the ISC so this route makes way more sense then looping around the engine and back. Have the CAS wires follow the ISC wires and extend past the ISC plug by about 12 inches. You will need to shorten the wires.The factory harness ends with the o2 sensor and the thermostat housing sensors (coolant temperature switch, coolant temperature gauge, and the A/C thermoswitch). This means that these are the longest wires in the harness. But why when the thermostat housing is on the passenger side of the engine, on the same side the wires enter the engine bay. This reroute allows you to remove a 2 foot chunk of the harness, removing with it a lot of unnecessary clutter above the intake manifold.Trace the wires for the 02 sensor and thermostat sensors back to where the ISC branches off from the main harness. Instead of following the ISC route like the CAS wires though, the thermostat and o2 sensors will make there own route. This is what the ISC junction should look like now:From where the thermostat and o2 wires brake from the main harness, at the ISC junction, you will need about about 25 inches to comfortably reach their respective sensors. Cut the chunk out of the harness and reattach the wires to make it the desired length. As with any wiring, it is best to solder the wires back together and put heat shrink over the exposed wires.After you have rerouted and shortened everything, rewrap the harness in wire loom. Keep in mind that not all wire looms are the same. There is standard polyethylene loom which is available at most home improvement and auto parts stores, this is what I used. There is also nylon wire loom which is automotive grade and is rated at higher temperatures, however it is more expensive and not as easily accessible. The nylon loom is identified by a grey stripe that runs along its length. Another option is to reuse your old, factory loom. Shop around before making a decision on your wire loom. Install the loom and tape the ends with high grade electrical tape to keep everything contained and protected.Now the wire harness ends with the 4 injector plugs and the throttle position sensor (TPS). These are the only wires that will now travel along the fuel rail. This will give you a much cleaner engine bay and also make working on your injectors, fuel rail, intake manifold, etc easier with less clutter in your way.This is all the stuff I removed from my harness. Keep in mind that I also removed 3 A/C related plugs (A/C sightglass, thermoswitch, and compressor plugs) and the BCS plug all the way back to the ECU connectors.This is what your harness should look like when you are done. I won't have an installed picture for the next few months but when I do I will add it here.I hope you found this tech article helpful. I think the reroute makes a lot more sense then trying to hide all the wires behind your fuel rail and should freshen up your engine bay. Who wants to see the mass of wire loom covering the intake manifold anyways. If you have any questions, pm me. Also if you like/dislike my idea leave a comment so I can know. I'd like to get some feedback on this. Thanks and enjoy your DSMs!*** Thanks to Calan for the positive feedback and suggestions regarding the nylon wire loom.
*****IMPORTANT***** Note that the wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture are as seen FROM the CONTROL HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. That is, you are looking at the wires going into the connector, OPPOSITE the side that is pictured. Like this: How to identify ECU pin numbers. *******************Consider this part two of The 1990 Engine Control Wiring Harness; this article covers the remaining electrical connections in the 1990 2.0L engine compartment as well as the handful of connectors that run to the interior on the driver side. For reference, the main diagram below is as viewed from the front of the vehicle; the long horizontal portion is the bit that runs underneath the radiator. This is my attempt to come full circle with the 2g Engine Bay Electrical Connections article posted by snowborder714 by providing visuals of each connector and hopefully aiding in identifying these connectors.Each connector is given an alphanumeric identifier that follows the 1991 configuration diagram found in the electronic copy of the factory service manual: Download the 1G Service Manuals. For your convenience, these are pictured here.Like the engine control harness, there are notable differences between this harness and those from later model years. Generally speaking, however, this article is relevant to all 1Ga (1990 and 1991, or those with pop-up headlights) models. On the other hand, the similarities and differences between this and the 1992+ harness(es) will not be covered now but may be added in the future; if anything, this will provide a reference for you to compare with your 1992+ harness to get an idea of what certain connections / connectors / plugs are. Now, without further ado, the complete engine compartment harness:A-21: Air Conditioner Relay Box (black connector, small 6-pin) A-21: Air Conditioner Relay Box (black connector, small 6-pin) /URL] A-22: Air Conditioner Relay Box (black connector, large 6-pin) A-24: Windshield Washer Motor (black connector, 2-pin) A-25: Pop-Up Motor Left Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-26: Front Combination Light Left Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-27: Front Combination Light Left side (black connector, 2-pin) A-28: Headlight Left Side (black connector, weird 3-pin) A-29 and A-30: Horn Left Side (slip sleeves, 1-pin ea.) A-31: Fog Light Left Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-32: Condenser Fan Motor for AC Circuit (black connector, square 4-pin) A-33: Front Turn Signal Light Left Side (white connector, straight 3-pin) A-40: Radiator Fan Assembly (black connector, square 4-pin) A-41: Front Turn Signal Light Right Side (white connector, straight 3-pin) A-42: Radiator Water Level Switch (black connector, stacked 2-pin) A-43: Fog Light Right Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-44 and A-45: Horn Right Side (slip sleeves, 1-pin ea.) A-46: Headlight Right Side (black connector, weird 3-pin) A-47: Front Combination Light Right Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-48: Front Combination Light Right Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-49: Pop-Up Motor Right Side (black connector, 2-pin) A-50: Hood Switch (black connector, 2-pin) A-52: Engine Control Wiring Harness and Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Combination (black connector, wide rectangular 4-pin) A-53: Engine Control Wiring Harness and Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Combination (black connector, large 1-pin)B-17: Power Steering Pressure Switch (brown L sleeve, small 1-pin) B-18: Alternator (ring terminal) B-19: Alternator (connector) (black connector, large 2-pin) B-21: Oil Pressure Switch (dummy light) (black connector, small 1-pin) B-22: Oil Pressure Gauge Unit (black connector, small 1-pin)C-33: Diode (orange connector, straight 3-pin) C-47: Engine Compartment Wiring Harness and Junction Block Combination (milk white connector, large 1-pin) C-48: Engine Compartment Wiring Harness and Junction Block Combination (milk white connector, wide 8-pin) C-68: Instrument Panel Wiring Harness and Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Combination (black connector, 10-pin) C-71: Engine Compartment Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination (milk white connector, wide rectangular 6-pin) C-72: Engine Compartment Wiring Harness and Body Wiring Harness Combination (white connector, 14-pin)The wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture list the original wire colors and individual wire locations are as seen FROM the HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. They should be color coded correctly, but if there is a disagreement with the letters and the color of the letters, go by the letters. When two colors are listed together, the first is the main color and the second is the color of the stripe or tracer. The letters represent the following colors:B - Black W - White R - Red G - Green L - Blue Y - Yellow O - Orange Lg – Light GreenPM me if you find any errors and I will make corrections as necessary. Thanks to pauleyman for supplying the harness! Note: There is some information that will be added in the future but this is a good base for any individuals who may need it.Finally, the following supporting vendors supply the individual connectors linked or partial kits for different model year DSMs: JNZ Tuning Extreme PSI Magnus MotorsportsAt the end of the day, they are all coming from Sheridan Engineering.EXTRA: Instead of creating another post, here's a list of the fuses in the Junction Block (J/B) (inside the cabin) by name and what number that corresponds to. These relate to factory wiring diagrams. 1 - Auto Seat Belt 2 - Empty 3 - Heater Relay 4 - Radio 5 - Cigar 6 - Door Locks 7 - 4 A/T 8 - Empty 9 - Wiper 10 - Head 11 - Gauge 12 - Turn 13 - Blank 14 - Anti-Theft 15 - Blank 16 - Heater 17 - Stop 18 - Back 19 - Room
So I decided to do this mod the other day and I followed the directions from vfaq: 2G Fog Lights with Parking LightsHowever, the instructions were a bit sketchy as far as pictures and clear instructions. I did get it to work, but didn't like the setup, so I went about altering the mod myself.Like the original states, get an in-line fuse holder and put male spade connectors on each end. Then pull the fog light fuse out, and put it in the holder. Then pull your tail light fuse (left one in the picture) and put the spade connector in with the fuse. Then link the in-line fuse back to the power side of the fog light fuse location.After that's done, you're finished. The fog lights turn on with your parking lights. They still operate normally with the switch and the high/low beam settings. You won't have to switch the fogs off in order to get them to shut off either. They will turn off with the fog switch as well as the normal light switch.
Overview Vehicle: 91 Eagle Talon Tsi AWDSo you’re doing a battery relocation or just need to get some thick wire from engine bay to inside of car. Forget about trying to squeeze it through the pass side grommet (Engine harness pass through) or slicing into your steering rack boot. Make your own dedicated hole for 0g/2g wire to pass through firewallTools Required0g Wire (as much as YOU need) Wireless Drill and drill bit set up to 1-1/16” (large step bits work fantastic) Dremel rotary tool with sanding drum Home Depot Grommet Kit (8pk CPGI Asrt) Can of fast drying paint (to seal drilled hole area)Precautions Measure before drilling Carefully sand hole to remove sharp edges Allow proper ventilation for spray paintStepsInside vehicle, pull back carpeting on pass side floor and remove insulation material on floor. About 2 inches to the right of the shift linkage cables bolt, there’ll be a flat spot. Measurement reference with a tape measure.Drill a small pilot hole through the firewall. It will be a deep hole to the other side. Once you’re through, drill out to 1-1/16” on both sides (from inside and in engine bay)Then use your dremel or whatever tool to sand down the sharp edges of your drilled hole. After it’s sanded, mask the area and spray some paint to cover the exposed metal. After it is dry, insert the large grommet from the Home Depot Kit into the hole.There will be a grommet for both sides of firewall (one inside and the other engine bay side)Hard part is done now. Go ahead and slide your 0g wire through.You’ll see how the wire easily slips through and is protected by the grommets. Now you can neatly run the wire.In the past I searched for this same thing and couldn't find anything with pictures. So while I had the chance and some free time I snagged some pics.Comments or questions, PM and I'll try to help out. -Mike02rt
Ok so recently I got like 4 questions asked my direction on how to relocate the master fuse box panel from under the hood and bring it inside to the glove box. Well, first and foremost, I have no pictures, I did this trick almost 2years ago so im also writing out of memory.The other two very important things you do at this time (if you havent already done this) is one, you must relocate the battery to the trunk. There is several write ups on how to do this correctly, im gonna make it a douple point to repeat a few key items that are a must on a batt relocation. 1st, mount the battery with an actuall tie down box not ghetto style, 2nd, MUST HAVE 150amp fuse/breaker, 3rd, run a 4awg wire from the negative battery post the whole length of the car and make that negative batt post touch the engine (use the starter/bell-housing bolt just like mitsu did from the factory) Other major thing to already have done (but isnt a must) is a ABS delete.So kids, you wanna do the wire tuck/un-used plugs delete? Ok, lets get started. First im gonna outline a very important part of this job. YOU NEED TO HAVE PROPER TOOLS. An actuall pair of strippers and crimpers are needed here. The bull$hit yellow handle combo wire stip/crimp tool they sell you at walmart or the gas station isnt good enough. Throw that peice a $hit out the window. What you need is front end wire strippers (not the BS kind where the stripper is located in between the 2 handles) quality pair of crimpers (I suggest Klein Tools) flush cuts (sometimes called zip tie cutters) mini tourch and NON insolated connectors and heat shrink, flux paste and solder.For those of you that are scared to cut a plug off the harness, DONT BE! There will be certain wire/plugs that need to be extended and some that will work better shortened. When ever we cut a plug off of the Mitsu harness do like this. *example* we need to lengthen coil pack signal harness. This is a 3 wire plug, cut each wire one wire at a time, cut them so they're all stagard cut, so no butt connector will touch the connector next to it. Cut the wire so all three wires are about 3/4" of a inch apart. We now use NON insolated connectors (these are the pure metal connectors, do not have plastic coating on them) slide a peice of 3/16"s heat shrink over a wire, crimp, connect wire, crimp agin, use flux paste, now carefully use your mini tourch and drip solder over the connector, slide shrink tube over freshly made solder connection, shrink down the tubing. Repeat on other two wires using same method. Now look what ya did! You safely extended the wires like a pro, they have perfect connection that will last and theyr'e not side by side butt-connectors and the modded wires arent to fat to fit in loom. This method is plenty safe and is the correct way of doin it.Now when I did this trick I peeled off ALL the 20year old crappy plastic wire loom and replaced it with nice marine grade loom (a cloth type that can be heat shrinked when finished) Your gonna want to peel off both fenders and remove the radiator. (we'll get to why in just a few minutes) Your gonna want to have a good plan of attack at this point, you need to know that your car is running tittys and you have no problems, you know all your wires in your engine wire harness and your not scared. If your taking on a project of this size than its safe to say you already are smart enough to know what wires your engine needs to run and where all the ugly BS wires are that dont do jack.Remove the wire harness first off of the engine, Pull it completley off the car. Theres a good sized bundle going into the firewall to hook up at the ECU and a few other relays and what not under the radio. Take this whole harness off. (there will be a big black plastic connector that links the engine harness to the chassis harness, take a mental note of this)Now you have engine harness off, score. Do not start mocking up where your gonna cut plugs or where your gonna shorten/extend wires. Its temping to do at this stage of the game but your not ready for this step yet.Now we need to remove the chassis harness off the car. (now you will see why you pulled both fenders and radiator). Start by unbolting the master fuse box panel, follow the wires down, you'll see alt. charging wires goin over towards the alt, theyre tucked under the radiator support. You will also find the wires punch thru the under side of the fender and lead into the secondary fusebox panel thats at the driver side kick panel. Remove the whole thing. (forgot to mention, if you have a hard time remember plugs, wrap them with packaging tape and write their name on the tape, this sometimes helps alot)The only wires that need to be extended from the master fuse box panel are the white colored alt charging wires, crack into the underside of the fuse box panel and it becomes super obvious on how this puppy works. The alternator wires unbolt off of the fuseable link under there. You will have to replace this wire. You could just extend it but where already there, might as well upgrade the two baby lil tiny piss poor white colored wires and make it one nice 4gauge wire.Open up the glove box, remove the 2 side tabs so this sucker can really swing fully open. Gonna have to mount the plastic fuse box panel up in there. Get crative, make a braket, be super clever on your zipties, do what you gotta do to mount the fuse box up in there in such a way that if the day comes that you gotta test for blown fuses all you gotta do is open the glove box and pull the plastic cover off as normal. This really isnt hard to do. I made a braket to bolt mine in and my glove box opens and closes perfet as it should.Now that we have the fuse box panel up in the glove box your gonna take the wires that were naturally factory rigged to go down the driver side of the car and bundle them all together and run them across the underside of the dash. Your gonna have to be clever and tricky when the wires go underneith the pedals and steering shaft. Use rubber insolated clamps and bolt them down under there, use zipties and ziptie the wires up under the dash (I did this with dash in car the entire time) keep rigging the bundle over towards the secondary fusebox under there. You should now be able to plug the harness back into the secondary fusebox. Punch the rest of the wires thru the supplied fender hole. These wires will now need to be extended, using the staggard cut method and non insolated connectors that are crimped soldered and shrinked and extend plugs.Now we can do the same thing on the passenger side. (I cant really remember but I dont think Mitsu put a hole there you may have to cut a hole) the wires that were naturally factory rigged to be on the right side of the car now pop thru the passenger side fender. Underneith the fenders you will find a lip so to speak, this lip you can drill 3/16" holes (and counter sink to take the sharpness away) and use these holes to act as ziptie mounts. ziptie up your harness and bring wires out underneith the headlights all sneaky style.So now you pretty much got the chassis harness relocated and re-installed (hey, the car doesnt know if the wires are sittin under the radiator support or under the dash it dont matter to the car as long as they all work strill) Now its time for the magic of engine harness tuck. Im not gonna go into extream detail or nothin but heres a few tips, the fuel injectors can be installed upside down, this makes the wires come up inbetween each intake manni runner and the wires plug in upside down. The entire emmisions system can be deleted with no Ill effects (california exempt :) ) The big black plastic connector I asked you to take mental note of, ya that peice to plug in your chassis harness is still under the dash, its not woth extending or modding. The engine harness will touch here under the dash no problem.At the beggining where I said a ABS delete helps, heres why. The factory ABS system has its own seperate brain box (ABS ECU) its factory mounted on the passenger side floor. This brain box has a metal protector cover that goes over the top of it, THEN, the carpet goes down. If you delete the ABS (plenty of detailed write ups on here) then you will have no need for the ABS brain box. Throw that lil mini ECU out to the trash and use its home as a safe spot to put wires or whatever. There is a super sturdy protector cover thats made of metal that will go down and protect this stuff. On my car, this spot is used to hold the buss bar (power distrubution box) for my battery in the trunk mod.There is a ton more crap im forgetting but its late and ive been crawling around the cement floor working on a million mile semi truck all day, I GOTTA LEAVE WORK AND GET OUTA HERE LOL.Ill check back on the thread from time to time and awnser any questions, Hell, tonight I might feel like bustin out the old laptop and scan through it for old pics. If I come across any pictures that are directly related to this write-up then Ill post the pics I find for sure.Good luck, and hope this helps some.TristenFinished product should look like this :)
It all started with a mod idea for N/A 1G DSMs that will allow addition of one extra gauge while keeping the instrument panel looking un-modified (1G gauge cluster setup). Finally was able to gather up all necessary materials to make it happen:Temporary paper gauge faces will be replaced with factory-style plastic ones after the design is finalized.The mod requires only basic tools: Flat screwdriver Two phillips screwdrivers, one regular, one precision Sharp knife and/or small saw blade (for trimming plastic) 1/16" and 3/16" drill bit Drill for said bits (can be hand cranked since it will only be used for drilling plastic) Soldering iron, flux, and solder Some spare wire For this let's start with a Turbo 1G (or an N/A cluster and tach/boost gauge from a turbo) cluster removed from a car. The extra gauge to be put in is a volt meter.1~ Unbolt all bolts off back side of cluster and remove flexible wiring panel. 2~ Carefully remove clear lense and black trim off the cluster. 3~ Pull out all gauges. 4~ Pop off small "lenses" that cover warning lights on the left and in the center. 5~ Carefully pry off fuel gauge's needle. 6~ Remove two small black screws off front of fuel gauge. 7~ Remove face plate and clear "lens" off fuel gauge. 8~ Repeat steps 6 and 7 on tachometer and boost gauge. 9~ Trim tach's "lens" to accommodate the fuel gauge. 10~ Trim cluster housing so mechanics of fuel gauge can fit where boost gauge usually sits:11~ Drill a hole in tach's "lens" to allow for the fuel gauge to be bolted up.(Note where a clear piece was removed to allow the fuel gauge to be mounted)12~ Attach fuel gauge, tachometer and it's face plate to the "lens". Re-install needles on both gauges. 13~ Re-install the gauge back into cluster housing:14~ Remove glass off a volt meter by prying/pulling off metal ring that keeps it in place. 15~ Remove face plate and needle, unbolt every fastener off the back. 16~ Remove housing off the volt meter by lightly tapping on connector bolts against a hard surface. Pull off the housing after it comes loose. 17~ Inspect the volt meter and trim off all unnecessary protrusions off it.18~ Use housing as template and mark necessary holes to be drilled in cluster housing so that voltmeter will fit where fuel gauge was. 19~ Drill the holes. 20~ Determine where holes need to be drilled to install factory "lens" and face to volt meter. 21~ Drill necessary holes.22~ Attach "lens", face plate, and needle to the gauge. 23~ Mount gauge inside cluster housing. 24~ Re-install other gauges and "lenses" for warning lights. 25~ Re-install the trim piece and "lens" on the cluster. 26~ Rewire the cluster on the back side so that everything is functional.
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