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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
We'll start this with the standard disclaimer: This is a modification made to our car. The following article shows you how this was done. You alone take full responsibility for any modification you make to your own car.After having many cars pull out in front of us, seemingly not seeing our low-slung DSM, I wanted to have some lights to help us be seen. When I remembered, I would turn on the parking lights, but often I would forget, until some moron pulled a stupid move.I'm not generally a fan of Daytime Running Lights (DRL), but with all the work that goes into our cars, an insurance check and a body shop are not going to get us our cars back using today's Book values. So, I decided that the coolest I could make DRLs look, would be to run the fog lights alone.Here is the diagram of how to wire your fog lights for DRLs, without running your parking or headlights. The best part is, you can still override the fogs to stay off, by turning off the dash fog light switch.Here is the diagram of how I wired the circuit. You will need a 12vdc automotive relay -- generally handles 30Amps or more --, some heavy gauge wire, and several spade crimp connectors. We also bought the socket for the relay so that we could wire it up and solder the connections, and then simply plug the relay into the base, in case we ever need to replace the relay at some future date.The power to run the fog lamps comes from the battery connection. The power is not applied to the fog lamps unless there is power to the Radio fuse. We were careful about several things: 1) The connection to the Radio fuse is on the "Supply" side of the fuse, so that the power to run the relay was not passing through the Radio fuse itself. 2) The connection to the Fog Lamps fuse is on the "To Switch" side of the fuse. This runs the power through the dash switch so that it can be overridden for the Fog Lamps to remain off.Here are the pictures of the actual install. You can see the grounding connection with the blue crimp eyelet on it:The exposed portion of the wiring was wrapped in loom cover and sealed with electrical tape to help keep out the elements. The relay was attached right next to the fuse panel to keep the wire runs short.I had to notch the cover for the wires to exit, but you can see it makes for a stock-looking appearance:Now we can drive and always have some lights on the front to help drivers see us who might have looked right over the top of us before. If we need to idle the car, or run the engine for any reason that's not driving, we can punch the Fog Lamp switch and turn the DRLs off.
This article is designed to help 2g owners identify all the plugs in the engine bay. \The photos and wire colors were based off of a 1999 Eclipse GSX, so other years and models may vary in location and wire color.I would like to give a HUGE thanks to turbosax2 for helping with the photography and the documentation for the article!!The way the tech article will be set up will be as follows:This post will have the master list of all the connectors. Each connector will then have it's own separate post below which will contain a little description and a few pictures and diagrams. The first picture will be an overview shot to show the general location of the plug. The plug will be circled in green. The next picture will show the plug itself. Following that will be a picture of the back of the plug to show how the wires are inserted into the plug as well as wire color. And lastly will be a diagram showing the arrangement/layout of the wires as well as the wire colors. These diagrams will always be viewed when looking at the back of the plug with the clip (the part that holds the plug in) on the top.Some descriptions will come from the service manual and others from Virtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - Quadrant map.Master List 1. Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) Sensor 2. Fuel Injector 1 3. Fuel Injector 2 4. Fuel Injector 3 5. Fuel Injector 4 6. Ignition Coil (Coil Pack) 7. Ignition Power Transistor 8. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 9. Knock Sensor 10. Camshaft Position Sensor 11. Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator) 12. Volume Airflow Sensor [Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS)] 13. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve 14. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid 15. Condenser Fan Motor [Air Conditioning (A/C) Fan] 16. Brake Fluid Level Switch 17. Radiator Fan Motor [Main Fan] 18. Hood Switch 19. Dual Pressure Switch (AC) 20. Capacitor (Noise Condenser) 21. Left Headlight 22. Left Combination Light (Parking) 23. Left Side Marker 24. Right Headlight 25. Right Combination Light (Parking) 26. Right Side Marker 27. Evaporative Purge Solenoid 28. Theft Alarm Horn 29. Idle Air Control Motor (ISC, IAC) 30. Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)] 31. Back-up Light Switch 32. Front Wiring Harness and Control Wiring Harness Combination 33. Evaporative Purge Solenoid to ECU Harness Connector 34. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) 35. EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve 36. Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor 37. Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit 38. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 39. Heated Oxygen Sensor (Front O2 Sensor) 40. Starter Solenoid 41. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 42. Positive Battery Cable/Starter Motor 43. Left Fog Light 44. Right Fog Light 45. Generator (Alternator Power) 46. Generator (Alternator) 47. Power Steering Pressure Switch 48. Horn 49. Oil Pressure Switch (Dummy Light) 50. Oil Pressure Gauge Unit 51. Ignition Suppression Resistor (Fuel Injector Resistor Box) 52. Engine Speed Detection Connector 53. Windshield Wiper Motor 54. ABS Hydraulic Brake Unit 55. Left ABS Sensor 56. Right ABS SensorWire Color Key B = Black Lg = Light green Sb = Sky blue V = Violet O = Orange Y = Yellow Br = Brown G = Green Gr = Gray L = Blue P = Pink R = Red W = WhiteHere's an example on how to read the diagrams.If you look at the picture, you'll notice there is 2 wires coming out the back of the connector. The diagram has 2 boxes that contain letters from the color code list above. The first box contains RSb. The first letter is the main wire color - red. The second letter (if applicable) deals with the stripe color, which in this case is sky blue as you can see in the picture. The second box contains a G for green. There is no stripe on this wire. These diagrams only deal with main wire color and stripe color. Some of the diagrams contain blank boxes which just means there is no wire there.
The 94-96 cars (correct me if I'm mistaken) have a separate cam angle sensor and crank sensor. Other years have them both in one unit on the passenger side of the head.Here is where the CAS is located on these cars:Closeup:You'll first have to make a wiring harness to connect the 1gCAS to the cam angle sensor and crank sensor connector. (Link on how to make this harness: RRE Instructions) step 1 is to cut the wiring harnesses for both. Cut them so you have as much wiring as possible to work with as you have to route the wiring around the back of the motor. Here's where I cut the cam sensor:This is what the connector looks like for the cam angle sensor:Here's the whole pigtail I cut off.If you're still confused as to where these connectors are, they are both mounted on a metal bracket behind the motor by the firewall. Here's a picture of both pigtails mounted on the metal bracket:These are the connectors that go to the wiring harness:This is where I cut the crank sensor:Once you make your wiring harness, you have to remove the plug on the passenger side of the head where you are going to install the 1g CAS.To do this, you must remove the valve cover. Most of you have probably done this by now. Remove the spark plug wires, take out the spark plugs, and remove all the inside and outside bolts on the valve cover and remove. If you havn't taken it off in a while you may have to pry it open. Now would be a good time to get a new valve cover gasket set...especially if your old one is worn.Here is the motor with the valve cover off. You have to remove this cap to get out the plug. Just take out the two 12mm bolts.Here's the cap out and the plug out.Here's the camshaft without the plug. You can see a slot where the CAS will go into.Now, jack up your car. Take off the front driver's side wheel. Remove the plastic so you can see the crankshaft pulley. (I actually was able to do this without taking off the wheel, but taking it off makes it easier) Take a 1/2" drive (ratchet wrench) and turn the motor CLOCKWISE so that the motor is TDC. Basically there are marks on the cam gears that you want to point towards each other. The mark on the exhaust cam gear (towards the front of the car) should face 3:00. The mark on the intake cam gear (towards the back of the car) should face 9:00. Shown below:Now you have to set the 1g CAS to the right position. I can't seem to find the right words to describe what I want to say, so I'll do my best. But on the cas (shown below) the slot has one notched side. Also, the circle under it has a notch in it. You want to match up these notches.Once you've lined this up, attach the cas to the camshaft in the slot at the end. Re-install the cap over the cam with the two 12mm bolts and torque to spec. Bolt the cas to the head. Make sure the bolts are in the middle of the slot for now. In the picture below, it's at the end, but you should have it in the middle to start.Now go ahead and put the valve cover back on, and put your spark plugs back in. Now to use this cas you have to reverse the order of the spark plugs. From left to right, your cylinders are 4-3-2-1. The normal setup of spark plugs into the coil pack from left to right is 4-1-2-3. You need to reverse this so the order on the coil pack is (from left to right): 3-2-1-4. In DSMLink make sure "Invert CAS" is selected. I'm not sure how to do this without DSMLink, so someone please post up if you know what to do. Connect your wiring harness to the new 1g CAS and to the crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor on the wiring harness.Now you have to set base timing again which should be 5 degrees advance. You will need to use a timing light. Follow proper directions for using a timing light. To adjust timing, simply loosen the bolts on the cas so you can rotate it. Rotate clockwise to decrease timing, and counterclockwise to add timing.Now you're done!!
Hey I had to change my O2 sensor so i figured i would make a tech for it while i was doing it.:)You might need to change you O2 sensor if you fouled your old one or just if you want to replace a old crusty one with a fancy new one.tools you might be needing: O2 sensor socket Ratchet with extension Torque wrench anti-seize compound(local car parts store or comes with sensor) New O2 sensor, wires, connector (the o2 sensor im using is the Denso: First time fit, it seems to be the best no reason why you shouldnt get this one, it can take leaded gas and has extra water protection among other things, all for $94 shipped) i got mine from machVthis is what your looking for on the car
This article is meant to serve as a general guide to get the horn to work with an Nrg short hub or aftermarket steering wheel. Credit goes to this particular article for the idea of using a hose clamp: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-get-your-horn-working-with-an-aftermarket-steering-wheel-using-a-clamp.373149/ Also take note of the picture from this article to see a hacksaw blade used instead of a hose clamp: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cruise-control-switch-relocation-and-horn-connection-with-aftermarket-steering-wheel.222394/ ********Note: I will not be going over srs light or how to maintain airbags Useful Videos: -For disassembly//assembly of nrg setup wheel-To understand the general concept of how the horn works skip to 1:15. The dude in the vid uses a paperclip instead of the hose clamp, but the same basic concept.Disconnect Battery!!!I'm gonna skip all the steering wheel disassembly to the part when removing the clockspring. The spring has two connectors that go under the dash, the one we want to use for our horn is white and has 3 wires: green w/ red stripe, blue, and black. Cut the connector from the clockspring leaving a decent amount of wire from the green/red wire and blue wire. The black wire will not be used so it can be cut short, covered with electrical tape, etc. If you don't want to cut up your clockspring, go to the junkyard and get yourself that one connector.This picture above shows the cut connectorAt this point, we will move on to using the hose clamp as a spring for the horn. I recently replaced my lower radiator hose and decided to use one of those hose clamps. I started by completely unscrewing the clamp and cutting the hose clamp to length using tin snips. You want to cut the solid part that doesn't have slots or find a hose clamp with a long enough section of slotted metal. You can reference the pictures to see the shape, but the general idea is to have it stationary, while also always contacting the bronze piece on the back of the short hub. The hose will be rubbing the back of the short hub so I would recommend using some Permatex Dielectric Grease to lubricate the connection. I smeared it on the hose clamp and on the entire bronze back.Install the nrg short hub to know how much you need to bend the hose clamp. I wanted to use the factory holes where the clockspring bolted to, so I made 2 bends to make almost like an omega symbol using a vise. I placed the slotted end on the lower-left screw post, marked it with a sharpie, and drilled a hole to use the factory screw. I then drilled a second hole on the other side of the clamp to try to use a white bump as a place to hold the clamp in place. I ended up missing my mark and used a Dremel to bore/extend out the hole enough to make it over the little bump. I also managed to screw in the factory screw on the lower-right post to secure the clamp further from the right side. I put a little epoxy on the bump part for extra support, but honestly feel like the second screw does a sufficient job, especially with the white bump as a retainer point.This picture above shows "white bump" mentioned priorScrew and epoxy holding the clamp in placeBack to wiring: The blue wire will be extended with a butt connector or soldered and then grounded using a ring connector. The green/red wire will also be extended to reach our hose clamp. Bend a small ring connector to make an L and place it between the screw and hose clamp on the bottom-left screw post. (Drawing of Circuit Below as well as pictures of it installed). Follow the installation process for the rest of the nrg setup using common sense or the vid from the budget tuner (linked above). Make sure all the parts connect to each other, connecting the male to female connectors of each component to each other. The short hub connects to the quick release part that sticks out, while the horn button connects to the actual quick release that bolts to the steering wheel. If you find out that the horn button has 2 male spade connectors, make a female-female adapter using a small wire and 2 female spade connectors. If you find that you only have one male connector on the horn button, follow this video:Review of basic circuitThis picture above shows the grounded blue wire (later connected with a butt connector, also ignore the messy wiring above that)This picture above shows the bent ring connector attached to the green/red wire between the clamp and screwConnect the battery and test :) Hope this helps at least someone!
In this thread Ill show you how to install a vac pump. The reason you would do this is to help launches when your brakes cant hold you back. While sitting at the line with boost, there is no vacuum going to the booster. This is mainly for people with a auto trans.You will need wire, wire strippers, crimpers, relay, hose, check valve, and the pump. You need find where you want to mount your pump. This is the pump I got.You need to remove the hose at the brake booster. You need to put a T in this line. On the remaining two ports, one goes to the booster and the other is going to the pump. In the line going to the pump is where you need a check valve put in place. Remember the pump is providing vacuum.Next you need to cut the plug off the pump and find another two pin connector. I used the same color wires so It would be easier to troubleshoot down the road. You need to wire the connector accordingly. This step isn't needed unless you wanted a plug and play system. Then you need to find a spot to run the wires through the firewall. I made a plate with a bulkhead going where my old clutch master went through. You can see in this image.After this, you'll want to get a power wire. I have a fuse block getting supplied by my battery. I have a fuse between the battery and fuse block. And then the fuse block is secondary fuses for whatever you want in the future. Find a place to mount a relay.You can use this diagram. I made a T for power rather than using 2 wires from the fuse block. You will want 12v power to pin 85 and 30. You need to run the positive wire from the pump to pin 87. The negative wire from the pump goes any ground on the car. Just find a old bolt to put the wire under.Now we need to get the wire from the ECU. For the fuel pressure solenoid we use pin 3 which is blue with a red striper. For the EGR solenoid we use light green with red stripe. The EGR is pin 6. I chose to extend both these wires where I plan on putting another relay to save time later on. I chose to use the EGR. This wire needs to go on pin 86 on the relay.Next we go on to dsmlink to confirm the install is good. You'll need to connect and go the the EGR or FPS tab. Set the values on the left side to 0. You can test multiple tps points. But I chose 5 for tps. You need to change the hg/ boost to what your ecuboost says in your log. Next with the car off but in ACC start a log. Then make sure the pump turns on and the relay clicks when you reach your desired TPS. After this you can fine tune as you need.Remember the ecu switches to ground. You cant wire the relay like this AND use a switch. This is only for dsmlink control. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. This article also assumes you are not using your current EGR and FPS solenoid. I think by the time your wanting to do this install, you already ditched emissions and the stock FPR.
The 2g's have alot of problems with the horn buttons not working. I took a few pictures and figured I'd put put something in print to go with it.First and foremost ALWAYS check your fuses first. Check both the fuse block located just above the left foot area inside the car and check the power distribution center (fuse block under hood) for blown fuses.I prefer to check most electrical problems at opposite ends first and then work my way towards the middle of the circuit. The horn under the left front head light (on 99RS models at least) and the switches at the steering wheel are the ends of the system. It's easier to get to the horn switches themselves rather than the horn.So the first thing you'll want to do is disconnect the battery. -edit: Prior to doing this, make sure you have your radio code if you are still running the factory radio. In many cases, you will have to reset the radio if you disconnect the battery. :end edit--You do this to protect yourself from having the airbag go off in your face. Make sure you disconnect the battery and let the vehicle sit for about 5 minutes.--------The airbag system is designed to deploy when the vehicle is impacted in a certain manor. In the event that the airbags are not required to deploy, the system still remains armed in the event of a second impact. The capacitors are for accidents where power to the airbag system is lost. The capacitors provide that power source to keep the airbag system in operating condition until the driver can exit the vehicle.------After the battery has been disconnected for five minutes, you can safely remove the airbag from the steering wheel. You do this by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold it to the steering wheel. There's one bolt in each area circled below. The two red circles indicate the horn switch location and on the back side of all four circled areas you will find the bolts.
Original information found here: http://www.angelfire.com/fl5/import/germantail.htmlOne of the steps found there was not needed, and some of the instructions were a little confusing so I modified it a bit while everything is still fresh in my mind.Parts needed: 2 8-ohm, 20-watt resistors from Radio Shack(Part #: 271-120) Some spare wire, you may want to pick up a roll of speaker wire at Radio Shack Wire cutters and strippers 10mm deep socket Flathead and Philipshead screwdriversNow, on to the fun:The amber-cornered European/Japanese taillights will work with the American version of the 2G Eclipse as long as you make some modifications to the wiring. Hopefully you have access to instructions on removing your taillights, but in case you haven’t I’ve included a brief description of the tools and process. A 10mm deep socket will come in handy here.Before you start, go to Radio Shack and get 2 8-ohm, 20-watt resistors(Part #: 271-120), and a roll of speaker wire if you do not already have any.1. Remove the two panels for bulb access. Also take out the center section of the interior section of the trunk. To do so you will have to take out the spare tire so you can pop the bottom part of this panel. With that popped you can lift it up and off. This will give you access to the seven nuts that hold the center Eclipse section. It will also make it easier to run some new wiring. With the center section off you can unbolt the right and left side taillights.2. Once your old taillights are removed, you need to transfer sockets/bulbs from the all red American lights to the Euro/JDM set. Mount the new taillights into the tail section and then the center Eclipse section. Plug the sockets back in the way they came out of your stock taillights.Now, keep in mind how the (US) lights are wired to work from the factory. This will help you understand the changes required to get the Euro/Japanese lights wired. The driving and parking lights are all the way across,in other words all three sockets are energized. They use a twin filament, 1157, bulb. The low wattage filaments are used for the running and parking lights. The corner(outer-most) ends never energize the high wattage filament, but fortunately they are there waiting for a new role. The two sockets toward the center use the high wattage filaments for brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashing. This is important to remember because a single wire feeds the signal for these functions. The same wire that sends the electrical pulse for the turn signal also sends the steady voltage for the brakes.The new taillights will need to be set up so the two center bulbs use the low wattage filaments for parking and running; and the high wattage for brake lights only. The corner amber socket needs to have the high wattage filament dedicated to the turn signal and hazard voltage. Remember though that a single wire sends all three to the American taillights. So the trick is to remove the brake signal to that wire and only allow the turn/hazard signal voltage through.3. To get started, you are going to cut the green wires on the outer-most bulb sockets(amber corner) about 3" from the bulb socket itself. Tape the chassis side of the wire up as it is not needed anymore, and you will be running new wires to this "pigtail" later on.4. The next step is to remove the turn and hazard signal from the wire that carries the brake light voltage. To do this you will need to access the hazard/signal flasher behind the radio. To gain access you will need to lift off the center console and the passenger side panel. It is a small black box above and behind the radio to the right side with a white connector on the bottom of it. Once you reach it, unplug the connector from the unit. It has ten wires connected to it. As you look at the connector you will see one side has a notch. To the left and right of the notch are two wire contacts each. The one on the left closest to the notch is the one that sends the signal to the back. There is a gray clip that keeps the contacts in place so take it off and don't lose it). Push out the contact identified prior. If you want to be sure you have the correct one take a voltmeter and probe the socket. You should see it activate when you press the brake pedal (duhh) and go to zero volts when you are off the pedal. When you have the contact pushed out of the socket, replace the gray lock and then tape up the wire you just removed so it cannot short on anything. Another way of testing this once the contact is pushed out, is to have a friend look at the taillights while you press the brake pedal, they should NOT come on if you pressed out the correct contact. If they do come on, put the contact you removed back in and press out the contact on the other side closest to the notch and try again. I used a small allen key to press the contacts out of the connector harness. Now put your radio back in and your console together.5. The next job is to send a brake signal to the two center sockets. To do this you need to run a wire from the signal that goes to the center "third" brakelight. This is behind the panel under the rear 1/4 window on the driver's side. To remove the panel you will need to remove your lower back seat by pulling on the pieces in the middle of the seats under the seats and lifting up. This will give you access to a screw you need to remove for the panel to come off. There is harness running up under this panel with a green wire that you will tap for its signal. You can identify the correct harness by finding the white socket that is "plugged" into the chassis. It will be a green wire coming out of this white plug, you can again take a voltmeter to test this wire by pressing the brake pedal, or just snip it and see if your third brake light still works. Once you have identified the correct wire, you will want to attach a fairly long wire to this one by soldering or just tapping and taping it. Run the wire you attached back to the taillight area and place the panel back on and put your back seat in.6. The white socket that hangs from the taillight bulb sockets are now ready for their surgery. First the driver's side. Strip back the insulation on the chassis side of the harness to reveal 3 wires, the ground (black) and the wire next to it (parking light voltage), stay. The gray/blue wire is cut leaving a 2-3" pigtail. The end that goes to the socket will be connected to the wire you soldered in the prior step(3rd brake light wire) and will also need to be daisy-chained over to the other taillight for the brake lights over there, but that comes last.7. The chassis side of the cut gray/blue wire will be extended to the amber corner socket on the left side. In addition you will need to connect the 8-Ohm resistors to a chassis ground on one end and this wire on the other. So from this single wire it splits into two wires. One to the resistor and ground and the other to the socket connector on the amber arrow. To explain this a little easier, ground one end of the resistor, and connect the green wire from the amber corner as well as the gray/blue wire to the other end of the resistor.8. Next is the right socket. The wire to be cut is gray/red. The socket side gets connected to the brake light wire daisy changed from the left light. The chassis side gets split again. One strand goes to the amber corner wire and and the other to the grounded resistor.As long as you followed these instructions 100%, everything should be working perfectly. I modified the original write-up while everything was still fresh in my head as I just did all of this last night. Just test the signals now and make sure they are working, as well as the hazard lights.Hope this helps, Spidey
I'm going to show you how to hard-wire your SD kit and Flex Fuel sensors instead of using an adapter harness for those either redoing their engine harness or you simply don't have the funds for the adapter harness.There was very little information on MAF wiring that I could find but maybe I wasn't using the right keywords.. Regardless, here's credit to this thread for having what I needed: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-maft-wiring-diagram-very-simple.442096/ After reviewing that thread, I then traced all the MAF wires across my harness to confirm where they went. There is a diagram that includes the ECU pin #'s a few pictures down if you're making a new harness. My car is a 98 GSX- your wire colors may vary but the positions of the wires should be the same.First thing you want to do is make an even cut across all the MAF wires to cut the plug off. I spread mine out so you can easily see the colors of each although they'll be listed below.Here is the pinouts for the MAF harness. Wires should be installed as seen in the pic below(looking from the back side) For example, the top MAP sensor plug would get the black #5 wire in the top left hole, green/yellow #1 wire in the top right hole, and the orange #2 wire in the bottom center hole. Note: If you're using a Omni MAP, you'll have to figure out the wiring yourself as my setup is for an AEM 5 bar MAP sensor. You will solder or crimp 2 wires onto the black #5 wire because the ground is used on both the AIT and MAP plugs. On the ethanol sensor, you will run its own separate ground from the center - pin. Do NOT tie it in with the #5 ground wire because it's a 5v ground and ECMtuning says not to, periodt. #7 will not be used so you can just heat shrink it to prevent any shorts and if you're not going to be installing the flex fuel sensor either, go ahead and heat shrink #3&4 wires as well.This diagram may be easier to read for some...I ran out of time to actually crimp the wires and install them but I will update the thread after I've done so and also include ECMLink instructions on how to log these values.
INTRODUCTION I notice there are not that many install guides for installing the Apexi Super AFC, usually its because the links are so old you can't find them. So I decided to write one up with pictures and good diagrams. I'm doing this write up for the 2G turbo's, I am not sure if the 1G or any others car is the same. I do know for sure that that the 2GNT install is totally different as the ECU is in the engine bay and it uses a MAP sensor. I also did this with the first SAFC, for the AFC, SAFCII, or SAFC NEO I am not sure if it is exactly the same. Another note is that this install guide will cover basic installation/wiring and setup. For tuning info you'd best look at the many other guides on tuners.INSTALL TIME This took me about 1 hour and 20 minutes (I checked the pictures timestamps, sure seemed longer than that). So plan to at least be working on it for an hour at the least and like 2 hours if your having trouble. Take breaks too my knees and back were killing me from all that surgery ;).WHAT YOU WILL NEED FOR THE INSTALL: Cutters Electrical Tape Soldering Iron (helps if you have a cordless one) Solder Sharp Knife Flashlight (dark in there)This is if you are going to solder the wires in which is the best way, alternatives are wire taps (but they look ugly).BULLET CONNECTORS Another thing you might want to get if your SAFC didn't come with them are bullet connectors. If you get the SAFC brand new unlike mine it will have bullet connectors. These connector are there so if you want to quickly uninstall the SAFC or more like disable it. You can unplug it and make it stock quickly.The first step is to get your work area ready. You will need to take the console side panels off on the drivers side. This will require unscrewing and pulling the panel off. You'll probably want to get your flashlight setup if there is not much light out. You also might want to get some kind of pad for your knees because you'll be on them for a while. You will want to start routing the harness where you want to install your SAFC, mine was installed under the radio. After you take the panel off it should look like this:Here is where the ECU is (its right behind that big bracket for the radio):Now that we know where the surgery will begin here is a diagram that I made with the help of turbosax2 colored wiring ECU diagram from this post (I highly suggest you print this diagram out, in color also): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/281763-2g-turbo-ecu-pinout-w-wire-colors.htmlThe diagram has has a list of what each pin/wire does, wire colors, and how thick the wire is. To the left is a map of each pin numbers. There are 4 colors for each of the ECU connectors. The left diagram is exactly how the ECU will appear when you are working it, please note that the legend is backwards, just match the colors up and you will not have a problem. The wires you will be tapping to the ECU are also highlighted in the colors that are on the SAFC. You will notice 2 of the wires have 2 colors on them and there are notes on them. This means there will be two wires either tapped or intercepted. There are also notes under the pin map.The wires we will be working with on the SAFC are: RED = SAFC POWER BLACK = GROUND BROWN = GROUND GREEN = TACHOMETER GREY = TPS PINK = MAS ORANGE = MASWe will not be using: BLUE, WHITE, and YELLOW wires. Cut the ends off of them if they are exposed and tape them or find someway to keep them out of the way.I started with the all the wires on the red connector, the lowest connector. It helps to unplug all the connectors you will be working with. I will say this once. You want to check and DOUBLE CHECK that you have the correct wire. Do this by finding the wire on the map and legend and confirming the wire color. Then double check by comparing what the pins/wires around the wire you are working with. So the first wire I am working with is the power wire. You will want to the get the RED SAFC wire out and look on the diagram. The power wire is on pin #25. Look for a red wire that is in the upper right corner of the connector. There should be a black wire on top of it and another one north west of it. Then there is a red wire to the left of it. If you confirm that, thats the one. Whew now I won't go over that again, just remember to double check it.There's the wire. Now cut into the jacket with your knife. Should look like the wire in the picture.If your soldering the wire in this is the method I used. I wet the part I cut with the soldering iron. Then I strip a little off of the SAFC wire just a little and wet it with solder. Then I put the wire in place and melt the two together. I do it this way so if I want to uninstall it later it will be easy to pull off. Anything else I will actually tie the wire around the wire then solder it but like I said I want it to be easy to uninstall. With that being explained solder the RED SAFC wire to this wire. Should look like the picture when your done.Be sure to give it a little tug when it cools down to make sure it is on there good. If you pull it and it comes right off chances are it will come off due to vibration or whatever. Now bend the wire as far as you can to get it parallel with the wire and wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape to prevent shorts. Should look like this:Now solder in the ground wire. Notice I already did it in the previous picture. The ground wire is tricky you need to solder TWO wire to it. The BROWN and BLACK wires from the SAFC. The BROWN wire needs to be closer to the ECU. Then the BLACK wire needs to be soldered further down the wire. I soldered it about 1cm away from the BROWN wire. Solder them and wrap them up. Should look like this picture:Now we're done with the RED connector. You can go ahead and plug it back in and pull get the YELLOW connector ready. Its that small one in the lower picture.Find the WHITE wire in the YELLOW connector and solder the GREEN SAFC wire to it. Then tape it up.Now plug the YELLOW connector back in and get the BLUE connector. We're almost finished. Find the BROWN wire with a RED stripe on it and solder the GREY SAFC wire to it and tape it up.Here's the last tricky part. Get your cutters and find and cut the BLUE wire (it looks green in that picture) with a YELLOW stripe on it. Notice its already cut in the picture.Now solder the PINK SAFC wire to the BLUE/yellow wire going to the ECU. Then solder the ORANGE SAFC wire to the wire other wire that goes to the MAS. Tape it up and your DONE! Go ahead and plug in the connector and double check that the others are plugged in. You can go ahead and put the side panel on if you want to. Also note that I am NOT using the bullet connectors I just soldered them in. You would solder a FEMALE connector onto the wire going to the ECU and a MALE bullet connector onto the wire going to the MAS and connect them. Then if you want to disable the SAFC just unplug the PINK and ORANGE wire and connect the BLUE/yellow wire together if you wanted to use the bullet connectors. If you soldered it too bad you need to unsolder and solder it back together.This picture shows the leftover wires you will have. These wires are not used because they are used for other cars that have different sensors or more than one airflow sensor. I know for a fact that the yellow and white wire are used on the 2GNT. The blue wire can be used to view your O2 sensor reading but I hear that it is not good to do it.Now go ahead and mount your SAFC where you want it to be. Like I said I mounted mine under the radio and I put a fuzzy dice next to it to fill in the gap. Then make sure you connected the harness to the SAFC like in the picture.This is what the wiring looks like after installation, there is A LOT of extra wire so tuck it in there somewhere it will not create any problems.BASIC SETUP FOR 2G TURBO Now go ahead and put the key in the ignition and turn it to ON. DO NOT start the car just put it to on. If you did everything right you will see the SAFC start up. If not check your wiring or if you put the connectors back in. Now hit the PREVIOUS button until you get to this screen and highlight ECT and hit next:You should see a screen like this:Go to SENSOR TYPEhighlight KARMANThen go to CAR SELECTThen set CYL to 4 and set the THR pointing NORTHEASTAlso set your HI and LOW maps to 0% if you don't want the SAFC to do anything if you haven't added injectors yet. (Ghey won't let me put anymore pictures in)You might want to also go to the monitors and see if anything is out of the ordinary. Step on the throttle and you should see the THR % move.Fire the car up and hopefully it runs, you should check if your RPMs are right. Congratulations your SAFC is now installed!Basic setup tip here: If you want to set your idle or low RPM to a particular injector find out how much percent larger your injector is compared to the stock 450cc injector.Example: If installing 550cc injectors. 550/450 = 1.22 -1 = .22 = 22% 550cc injectors are 22% larger than the stock 450cc injectors, so you will need to subtract 22% fuel to make it idle l So in the low setting you would put -22% across all RPM ranges.
I have fought with DSM alternators for years and I'm sick of the $120+ cost of replacing a weak 65amp stock unit. There are rewound units that put out 105 and 135amps but at a cost of $175-$250 I say no thank you. If you have a few basic tools a a little bit of time here is your answer.Tools needed:basic hand tools: wrenchs and sockets small grinder or dremel soldering ironParts needed:Saturn Alternator from a 93-99 Saturn 1.9L dohc ( 1996 Saturn SC2 dohc )I did the mock-up on a spare motor and have also done this on my car. It took about 30 minutes using a dremel.The benefit is a more powerful and CHEAPER alternator.Saturn, meet Mitsubishi:The alternator needs to be clearanced to allow it to rotate to be tensioned.Grindingmore grindingGrind "A" to match "B"GrindingYou retain the stock bracket and tensioner. Flip the tensioner to clear the fan blades. You will also need a longer bolt with a nut and lock washer to attach the tensioner to the alternator since the saturn unit is not threaded like the stock DSM alt.Wiring is pretty straight forward, the large yellow wire goes to the F(black) wire on the saturn connector and the small black wire goes to the L(black w/ white stripe) on the saturn connector.
We've all seen good and bad attempts to light the center taillight sections on 2Gs. Although they look good when finished, most of us don't have the time or skills to hand-build led boards.Here's how we lit the center section of our 2G Spyder for $75.Disclaimer: This documents how we upgraded our taillight. You are responsible for your own modifications, and any results that happen. You will have to remove some interior body panels to access the center section attachment bolts, and to access the wiring harness. We did not use voltage regulators in this application, which can protect the leds from over or under voltage. You may wish to include those if you do this mod.Disassembling the center section is covered in other threads in this forum. We used the traditional oven heating technique to soften the lens-to-housing glue.The toughest challenge was to get the silver "paint" off of the inside of the center section lens. Turns out the difficulty was because Mitsu used a lacquer paint that "melts" into the red lens. Great for longevity, but not for removing. We experimented with different techniques and chemicals, but the only thing that worked, without damaging the red lens, was careful sandblasting. As you can see in the picture below, the blasting was strong enough to removed the silver layer, but not flatten the "bumps" on the lens. This is important so that the look of the lens matches the other taillights when done. We paid our local favorite powdercoating shop $30 to blast this.Next, we cleaned and painted the inside of the center section housing with chrome paint, so that it would reflect the indirect lighting of the leds to provide a light bar look.We researched and found the perfect length, adhesive, weather-rated led strips, in warm white. The design was to have one strip on the top of the housing, and one strip on the bottom of the housing, that came on with the parking lights.We added second strips, both top and bottom, to come on when the brake lights activated. This way, the brightness of the center section will increase in brightness at night, just like the outer taillights do.The part number of the adhesive led strips is WFLS-WW30-WHT from superbightleds.com. $10 each times four (4).Here is the picture of the painted housing, with the four strips of leds installed, two in the top and two on the bottom. NOTE: It looks like all four led strips are on the bottom of the housing in this shot, but that is the reflection of two strips off the chrome housing:Now for the wiring. The wire needs to pass through the housing, so we drilled a hole in the corner of the housing and a matching larger one in the sheetmetal behind the housing, in order to get the wires next to the wiring harness. It is important you line up the holes exactly since the housing bolts up tight to the body sheetmetal and will pinch and cut the wires if it is not directly in line. Drilling a slightly larger hole in the body metal allows you to shift the center section around for best alignment, when remounting.Wiring Connections:Running Lights: One set of wire leads from each, the top and the bottom of the housing, connects to the parking lights in the harness, behind the left taillight.Brake Lights: To make sure the second set of leds only came on with the brake lights, and not one of the turn signals, we wired one set of wire leads from each, the top and the bottom of the housing, to the factory center high-mounted brake light. In our case, since this is a Spyder, the factory brake light is in the trunk lid, directly over the center section, but coupes still use the same connection into the harness.Here is a photo of a quick wiring test using the parking lights only:After testing your wiring, finish bolting the center section to the car, reattach all interior panels, and clip the center lens into the lighted center section.Below are pictures of the finished working project.Running lights:Brake lights:We hope this has helped give some of you that want to light your center taillight section, a method to do this, without spending too much time or money.
Not enough space in your favorite car's engine bay? Do you really not like that eye-sore of a battery next to your 4g63? Not wanting to add hundreds of dollars in breakers and inline fuses?Well utilizing the stock fused components you still can toss your battery in the trunk or behind the passenger seat.What you'll need:-25 dollar 4 terminal distribution busbar with plastic cover (TSIAWD666 uses one also) ~readily available on ebay-2 Gauge wire for extending the positive post connection (7 to 8 feet to reach behind seat, roughly double it to place the battery in the trunk) ~[2 dollars a foot] I went to Advance Auto for all the wires-4 Gauge wire to ground the negative (2 gauge works as well but not necessary) ~[Most likely clearance item so pretty cheap] Advance Auto-Terminal with 2 gauge wire (30" is the longest you can buy from a parts store) ~Advance Auto-Have a sharp knife or some kind of tool to remove shielding for 2 gauge wire-I used a torch (walmart adaptor with propane tank) to solder ring terminals on the large gauge wireNOTE if you want to be NHRA legal add a kill switch into the positive wire to the outside of the rear bumper, and a sealed battery box.First undo the positive connections to the stock battery terminal. Take these terminals and mount them into the new 4 terminal busbar, including any aftermarket power wires you had as well. The alternator wires from the fuse box you will need to widen their ring terminals or replace them (I opted to make the stock ones work, and I stacked them on the same lug in the bus bar)Remove the passenger seat and rear seats, and pull the carpet up to the hinge of the door. Run the power wire through the big wire loom's path (behind the glovebox on the firewall). It is shielded by a large plastic guard, so very little risk of cutting your wire and grounding it out, but I put some rubber around it anyway. Pull that wire into the bay and place the ring lug into the bus bar.Run the power wire under the carpet, I ran it through the stock amp cutout also and then back under the carpet so I can add a killswitch or circuit breaker for a little safety net that sits under the passenger seat.The wire then needs to go under the back seats and under the trunk carpet lining and connected to the battery. Pop clips hold the carpet, and levers to take out the rear seats.The ground wire connects to the negative battery post and is bolted to the upper rear seat’s mounting bolt.You can place the battery wherever you please in the trunk, mine is in front of the spare tire mount, with padding around it to prevent movement (and the trunk floor sits on top of it). A battery box is recommended, but not necessary if you aren’t trying to be NHRA legal. Just secure it so it doesn’t fly when you get on the throttle.
So I recently had my nearly new 17 month old oem 75 amp alternator go funny on me and it was time for this GALANT swap so I ordered a unit from the UK only to find out that the UK Galant is different then the US Galant!Im doing this because I could not find a part number to work with to help me search and it WILL save time in the future for others! so this should help people when they need to do this swap!this here is a UK Galant alternator matched down to the correct year and from the same engine 4g63 vr4 but this is 100 amps and I even tried the 90 amp 2.4 unit aswell but that was the same style aswell,this is the link Mitsubishi Galant VI | 100 Amp ALTERNATOR | 2.0 16V (A1939) - The Starter Motor & Alternator Company Ltdthis unit did not work due to a few reasonslink to the pics are in here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/454082-100amp-galant-alternator.htmlas you can see from them the 4 pin location and power and even the upper arm is all wrong but thats not the big problem as it still would work like that that main ISSUE is the twin arms at the bottom are to close together!so over a course of a few hours over 2 days I find a part number from a site called maniacelectricmotors ALTERNATOR FOR 1996-1998 GALANT 2.4L - 2.4L '98-'96 ALL - ALTERNATOR 13585 this is the correct unit for this swap!in the UK I found this in only 1 place/company and they only had 1 in stock and that was from Wood Auto Supplies Ltd :: ALT31219it went on real easy and works great and I cannot be happier with this small but very worth while upgrade.so just to recap the part numbers you need to cross reference when buying an alternator from a galant are A2T82791, A2T82791ZC, MD310997, A2T82792, A2T82792ZC, MD327535on a side note the company maniac electric motors also do upgraded units (higher amps) aswell if anyone wants more power from there alternator High Output 150 Amp Alternator 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L W/Turbo & Many More... - HIGH OUTPUT MITSUBISHI ALTERNATORS
This is a write up on how to wire in a AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor in a 2g and log it using dsmlink V3. Since V3 is installed on your car its possible to remove your MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor and in its place wire in a MAP sensor to log actual boost.If your still running the 2g intake manifold you'll also need to get the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter, which will let you mount the MAP sensor in place of the MDP. It can be purchased here --> RRE 2g MDP/MAP sensor adapter and to order it you need to call them, their online ordering system sucks but they do answer their phones.Heres what the RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter looks like installed on a 2g intake manifold with a AEM MAP sensor mounted to it.With that being said I'm currently running an Evo III intake manifold so mounting & vacuum source locations could be different depending on your setup. The good news is that no matter what IM your running wiring in the AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor will be the same. First things first, your going to need to run to the store and grab a few things if you don't already have them. Parts: - (1) AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor - (3) 18ga. to 22ga. butt connectors (they're the red ones) - (1) roll of black electrical tape - (1) set of wire cutter, stripper, & crimper pliers - (1) 3/4" rubber insulated clamp - (1) can of NOS energy drink - (1) RRE MDP/MAP sensor adapter (IF YOU'RE RUNNING A 2g INTAKE MANIFOLD)Wiring & Install: Unplug your MDP connector, or dig it out from the wiring harness going to your fuel injectors and TPS (heres a link to its exact location --> MDP sensor). Once you pull it out cut back the insulation around the (3) wires going to it, using caution not to cut the wires themselves.Cut the (3) wires right at the back of the connector, you won't be using it again and your going to want all the length you can get so you can mount it where you want. After you cut the wires pull out your electrical pliers and strip the insulation off, exposing the wire inside. (Use the 18ga. insulator cutter on your pliers)Grab the supplied harness that came with your AEM MAP sensor and pull the insulation off the ends of the wires, they are pre-cut if you buy it new so using the pliers isn't necessary.Attach the butt connectors to the AEM MAP sensor harness and crimp them tight around the exposed wires so there are no loose connections.Once your 100% certain the butt connectors are tight on the MAP sensor harness connect them to the exposed wires on the MDP sensor harness. The MDP harness has a green & black wire, green & yellow wire, & a solid black wire. The AEM MAP harness has a red, green, and black wire.**WIRE THEM TOGETHER LIKE THIS**- MDP green/yellow wire to MAP red wire. - MDP green/black wire to MAP green wire. - MDP black wire to MAP black wire.Then after checking that the butt connectors are secured onto the wires use the original MDP wire insulation and cover as much of the butt connectors as possible. Then, using the black electrical tape, wrap the cut insulation and butt connectors up to keep them from being exposed to the elements.To keep your MAP sensor logging accurately you need to secure it to a place it won't move around, I chose the top of my intake manifold but the firewall works too if your emissions have been removed. Just don't go crazy, you want the vacuum/boost line going to it as short as possible so it see's the boost as soon as it hits the IM.I pulled my now MAP sensor harness under the IM and then around the back of it, on the firewall side.Then using the 1" rubber clamp I secured the MAP sensor TIGHT to the top of my Evo III IM. I'm also running a catch can off the valve cover so I had an open boost source off the IM where the PCV valve was sourced to. I ran a vacuum line from the IM to the AEM MAP sensor and made sure all the connections were good and tight before I close the hood and moved onto getting everything setup in dsmlink.Logging your AEM 3.5 MAP sensor in dsmlink V3: I'm going to assume you already know how to connect to dsmlink with your laptop and pull up the Live Settings menu. Once you open up the Live Settings menu click the ECU Inputs tab, you should then see something like this on your screen.Since you wired in the AEM MAP sensor in the MDP sensors location, your going to click the Factory/none text next to the MDP and it will bring up a drop down menu to select from. We just wired in an AEM 3.5bar MAP sensor so select that from the drop down menu, it will look like this on your screen.Once thats selected you need to do (2) things... 1. Select the Save Pin Assignments button 2. Click the Lock Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) sensor box under the ECU Input Locks for Factory Code sub menu.Once everything is setup like it should be your ECU Inputs tab should look like this.Now all you need to do is start a datalog (F12) and then open your displayed values menu (F9) and find AEM3.5Bar in the displayable values and double-click it, bringing it over in the displayed values.If you made it this far your G2G and you did everything correctly! If you notice that with your car off your AEM35Bar will still log -.2 in/Hg when it should be at 0. Honestly -.2 in/Hg is pretty damn accurate but if it bothers you just double click the AEM3.5Bar in the log and pull up its preferences. You'll see in the MAP sensor preferences window there's a spot to input your altitude. I'm at sea level and to get it to read 0 I had to bring it to 400 ft.Happy Boosting and if you have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM.
For questions about rewire, or just a guide to the rewire, these videos should help you. Gst or gsx owners both can get info from this as well. Hope these help some people out and thanks for watching. This is just the first segment i embedded. The other segments are titled the same so check em out and good luck with the rewire. Any questions or comments just post em on youtube and ill reply back.
Okay here is my understanding, and what worked for me.The gear selector is still connected to the neutral saftey switch (grey thing on left) Their is no modification needed for that.From the NSS, i will solder the diodes directly to the new wires going directly to the solenoids in the transmission in the order the picture shows. In doing so i will add 2 wires in the cab for a switch to activate 4th gear, which will only work if the selector is already in 3rd.also my 2g wire colors are different, from the NSS on the 1g the colors i have are.1.big red. blue stripe -not needed 2.big black. white stripe - not needed 3.yellow. red stripe -goes to solenoids 4.yellow - goes to solenoids 5.yellow. black stripe - goes to solenoids 6.white. black stripe - not needed 7.red. blue stripe - not needed 8.blue. red stripe - 12v power wire needed 9.black. yellow stripe - not needed 10.black - ground needed 11.black. red stripe - starter trigger wire neededI have 2 extra plugs I' made mine out of just in case something went wrong.here is the Nss plug andd the above mentioned wire colors, the clip on plugs are facing upward. I noticed on the solenoid plug, the grey actually plugs into the orange and the orange plugs into the yellow for some odd reason, Make sure you swap these around and don't get confused.Any questions please ask as I am very willing to go into more detail wherever you made need any help. After all we are here to help each other, not tell each other to search.
Eclipse to Talon Tail Light Wiring ConversionFor the longest time, I've wanted to convert my Eclipse's tail light wiring to function like the Talon's where the brake and blinker lights are completely separate from each other. If you do this with a hard top Eclipse, it could be as simple as swapping a section of the harness, and the blinker relay. However, for the Spyder, that isn't possible (without major splicing of the two different harnesses). This setup can still be done, as many members on this forum have done it, but I haven't seen any write-ups. With help from 97eclipseNT, I have completed the wiring modification, and the tail lights operate the way I want them to. I give him credit for the info I'm providing, but I'm just the one who decided to put the info together for everyone else.Tools needed: Cross-tip screwdriver Flat-tip screwdriver Wire cutters Wire strippers Wire crimpers (if using wire connectors) Soldering iron (if not using connectors; preferred) LighterParts needed: Electrical tape Solder media (if soldering; preferred) Wire connectors (if not soldering) Heat shrink Wire Zip ties (optional)Step 1: Accessing the flasher relay & cutting the wire. Use your cross-tip screwdriver to remove the center console, and then your stereo. Also remove your rear seat cushion at this point. The flasher relay is located up above and to the right of your stereo's mounting location. It's the flat black box with the 10-pin connector plugged into the bottom.Disconnect the harness from the relay. On the connector plug, locate the SOLID GREEN wire. There are NO stripes on it, but there may be the little silver rings, that's fine, it's still considered solid green. This is the ONLY wire on this plug that connects to the brake switch that is plugged into the brake pedal. Cut the wire. It doesn't matter where you cut it, but getting a soldering iron in this area can be tricky.Step 2: Extending the wire. I cut the wire closer to the plug so I'd have more wire, and therefore could have a little more room to solder the wires. Before starting all this, I rummaged through my stock pile of hacked DSM wire harnesses and pulled out a section of matching solid green wire. You don't have to color match, but it's easier if you do, so you can retrace the wires later if needed. Plus I have OCD, so not color matching wasn't an option. Make sure you have enough to reach all the way to the tail lights. I think I used somewhere between 6 and 10 feet. Now, you can solder your extension wire onto the brake signal wire you cut from the flasher relay. Or you can use wire connectors, but soldering is the best way to go. Unfortunately, this was the only location I got to solder because my iron ran out of fuel, and I didn't feel like running an extension cord for my plug-in iron. I'll redo the others later though. Once you've secured the extension wire to the signal wire, route it through the various components under the center console, and run it under the carpet between the console and rear seat cushion. Run the wire over to the driver side of the car. I zip-tied the wire along the factory harness to keep it all organized and to keep the wire stationary. Now you can run the wire under the seat back and into the trunk.Step 3: Modifying the tail light connections. First off, remove all your trunk panels so you can run the wire and access the tail light bulb connections. I ran the extension wire to the center brake light wire first. I cut the brake wire and connected it to my extension, and then another extension to run to each of the tail lights.Don't connect to the factory harness in this location. Since the signal wire was cut from the relay, there shouldn't be any brake signal from the factory harness. Continue running the new wire to the driver side tail light. I choose to use the inner-most light location for my brake lights. There's a black (ground) wire, a solid green (blinker) wire, and a green w/white stripe (brake signal) wire. Cut both green wires and splice your new wire to the green w/white stripe wire. This is the method for using the factory 1157 (dual filament) bulb sockets. I have chosen to use 1156 (single filament) bulbs and sockets from my spare wire harness collection. If you choose to use the 1156 sockets, cut the black ground wire as well and wire the 1156 ground to it, and its' green/white wire to the factory green/white wire. Continue the extension to the passenger side light housing and repeat all this to the exact same bulb socket. Give yourself extra slack in the wire so you don't get it pulled on when you reinstall all the panels and zip-tie it in place if you wish. Now the 2 inner lights will illuminate when you hit the brakes, but they won't illuminate with the blinkers.Now you just have to reinstall all the parts you removed. Be sure to use heat shrink on all splice/solder locations to protect your work. Before I swapped the bulb sockets, the center brake light would flash with the flashers while the brakes were on. Now that I have swapped to the 1156 bulbs, this has gone away. But, the center brake light now doesn't come on while running lights are on, and brake applied. I'll continue to look into this issue until I have perfected everything. I will update this write up as necessary.In this video, you can see the center brake slightly changing illumination with the blinkers. It didn't do this when first hooked up, so I believe it was doing this because the battery I'm using needed to be charged. It's an 18-volt drill battery. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/HLzO2Y5nUOY?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>This video is just blinkers by themselves. <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/pu_8WX7JfTQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
So I decided to do this mod the other day and I followed the directions from vfaq: 2G Fog Lights with Parking LightsHowever, the instructions were a bit sketchy as far as pictures and clear instructions. I did get it to work, but didn't like the setup, so I went about altering the mod myself.Like the original states, get an in-line fuse holder and put male spade connectors on each end. Then pull the fog light fuse out, and put it in the holder. Then pull your tail light fuse (left one in the picture) and put the spade connector in with the fuse. Then link the in-line fuse back to the power side of the fog light fuse location.After that's done, you're finished. The fog lights turn on with your parking lights. They still operate normally with the switch and the high/low beam settings. You won't have to switch the fogs off in order to get them to shut off either. They will turn off with the fog switch as well as the normal light switch.
Ok so recently I got like 4 questions asked my direction on how to relocate the master fuse box panel from under the hood and bring it inside to the glove box. Well, first and foremost, I have no pictures, I did this trick almost 2years ago so im also writing out of memory.The other two very important things you do at this time (if you havent already done this) is one, you must relocate the battery to the trunk. There is several write ups on how to do this correctly, im gonna make it a douple point to repeat a few key items that are a must on a batt relocation. 1st, mount the battery with an actuall tie down box not ghetto style, 2nd, MUST HAVE 150amp fuse/breaker, 3rd, run a 4awg wire from the negative battery post the whole length of the car and make that negative batt post touch the engine (use the starter/bell-housing bolt just like mitsu did from the factory) Other major thing to already have done (but isnt a must) is a ABS delete.So kids, you wanna do the wire tuck/un-used plugs delete? Ok, lets get started. First im gonna outline a very important part of this job. YOU NEED TO HAVE PROPER TOOLS. An actuall pair of strippers and crimpers are needed here. The bull$hit yellow handle combo wire stip/crimp tool they sell you at walmart or the gas station isnt good enough. Throw that peice a $hit out the window. What you need is front end wire strippers (not the BS kind where the stripper is located in between the 2 handles) quality pair of crimpers (I suggest Klein Tools) flush cuts (sometimes called zip tie cutters) mini tourch and NON insolated connectors and heat shrink, flux paste and solder.For those of you that are scared to cut a plug off the harness, DONT BE! There will be certain wire/plugs that need to be extended and some that will work better shortened. When ever we cut a plug off of the Mitsu harness do like this. *example* we need to lengthen coil pack signal harness. This is a 3 wire plug, cut each wire one wire at a time, cut them so they're all stagard cut, so no butt connector will touch the connector next to it. Cut the wire so all three wires are about 3/4" of a inch apart. We now use NON insolated connectors (these are the pure metal connectors, do not have plastic coating on them) slide a peice of 3/16"s heat shrink over a wire, crimp, connect wire, crimp agin, use flux paste, now carefully use your mini tourch and drip solder over the connector, slide shrink tube over freshly made solder connection, shrink down the tubing. Repeat on other two wires using same method. Now look what ya did! You safely extended the wires like a pro, they have perfect connection that will last and theyr'e not side by side butt-connectors and the modded wires arent to fat to fit in loom. This method is plenty safe and is the correct way of doin it.Now when I did this trick I peeled off ALL the 20year old crappy plastic wire loom and replaced it with nice marine grade loom (a cloth type that can be heat shrinked when finished) Your gonna want to peel off both fenders and remove the radiator. (we'll get to why in just a few minutes) Your gonna want to have a good plan of attack at this point, you need to know that your car is running tittys and you have no problems, you know all your wires in your engine wire harness and your not scared. If your taking on a project of this size than its safe to say you already are smart enough to know what wires your engine needs to run and where all the ugly BS wires are that dont do jack.Remove the wire harness first off of the engine, Pull it completley off the car. Theres a good sized bundle going into the firewall to hook up at the ECU and a few other relays and what not under the radio. Take this whole harness off. (there will be a big black plastic connector that links the engine harness to the chassis harness, take a mental note of this)Now you have engine harness off, score. Do not start mocking up where your gonna cut plugs or where your gonna shorten/extend wires. Its temping to do at this stage of the game but your not ready for this step yet.Now we need to remove the chassis harness off the car. (now you will see why you pulled both fenders and radiator). Start by unbolting the master fuse box panel, follow the wires down, you'll see alt. charging wires goin over towards the alt, theyre tucked under the radiator support. You will also find the wires punch thru the under side of the fender and lead into the secondary fusebox panel thats at the driver side kick panel. Remove the whole thing. (forgot to mention, if you have a hard time remember plugs, wrap them with packaging tape and write their name on the tape, this sometimes helps alot)The only wires that need to be extended from the master fuse box panel are the white colored alt charging wires, crack into the underside of the fuse box panel and it becomes super obvious on how this puppy works. The alternator wires unbolt off of the fuseable link under there. You will have to replace this wire. You could just extend it but where already there, might as well upgrade the two baby lil tiny piss poor white colored wires and make it one nice 4gauge wire.Open up the glove box, remove the 2 side tabs so this sucker can really swing fully open. Gonna have to mount the plastic fuse box panel up in there. Get crative, make a braket, be super clever on your zipties, do what you gotta do to mount the fuse box up in there in such a way that if the day comes that you gotta test for blown fuses all you gotta do is open the glove box and pull the plastic cover off as normal. This really isnt hard to do. I made a braket to bolt mine in and my glove box opens and closes perfet as it should.Now that we have the fuse box panel up in the glove box your gonna take the wires that were naturally factory rigged to go down the driver side of the car and bundle them all together and run them across the underside of the dash. Your gonna have to be clever and tricky when the wires go underneith the pedals and steering shaft. Use rubber insolated clamps and bolt them down under there, use zipties and ziptie the wires up under the dash (I did this with dash in car the entire time) keep rigging the bundle over towards the secondary fusebox under there. You should now be able to plug the harness back into the secondary fusebox. Punch the rest of the wires thru the supplied fender hole. These wires will now need to be extended, using the staggard cut method and non insolated connectors that are crimped soldered and shrinked and extend plugs.Now we can do the same thing on the passenger side. (I cant really remember but I dont think Mitsu put a hole there you may have to cut a hole) the wires that were naturally factory rigged to be on the right side of the car now pop thru the passenger side fender. Underneith the fenders you will find a lip so to speak, this lip you can drill 3/16" holes (and counter sink to take the sharpness away) and use these holes to act as ziptie mounts. ziptie up your harness and bring wires out underneith the headlights all sneaky style.So now you pretty much got the chassis harness relocated and re-installed (hey, the car doesnt know if the wires are sittin under the radiator support or under the dash it dont matter to the car as long as they all work strill) Now its time for the magic of engine harness tuck. Im not gonna go into extream detail or nothin but heres a few tips, the fuel injectors can be installed upside down, this makes the wires come up inbetween each intake manni runner and the wires plug in upside down. The entire emmisions system can be deleted with no Ill effects (california exempt :) ) The big black plastic connector I asked you to take mental note of, ya that peice to plug in your chassis harness is still under the dash, its not woth extending or modding. The engine harness will touch here under the dash no problem.At the beggining where I said a ABS delete helps, heres why. The factory ABS system has its own seperate brain box (ABS ECU) its factory mounted on the passenger side floor. This brain box has a metal protector cover that goes over the top of it, THEN, the carpet goes down. If you delete the ABS (plenty of detailed write ups on here) then you will have no need for the ABS brain box. Throw that lil mini ECU out to the trash and use its home as a safe spot to put wires or whatever. There is a super sturdy protector cover thats made of metal that will go down and protect this stuff. On my car, this spot is used to hold the buss bar (power distrubution box) for my battery in the trunk mod.There is a ton more crap im forgetting but its late and ive been crawling around the cement floor working on a million mile semi truck all day, I GOTTA LEAVE WORK AND GET OUTA HERE LOL.Ill check back on the thread from time to time and awnser any questions, Hell, tonight I might feel like bustin out the old laptop and scan through it for old pics. If I come across any pictures that are directly related to this write-up then Ill post the pics I find for sure.Good luck, and hope this helps some.TristenFinished product should look like this :)
So the Spidey write up was missing parts to get your signals to work properly. Most people who attempted the wiring came out with hyper blink. I have resolved this issue and also provided pictures. Lets get to it!Tools: Two 8-Ohm 20 what resistors Radio Shack PN: 271-0120 Solder Soldering iron Wire strippers/cutters Electrical tape 20' of Auto wire 10mm deep socket Regular screwdriver Phillips Screwdriver Volt Meter Awl/small pointy objectHopefully you have access to instructions on removing your taillights, but in case you don't, I've included a brief description of the tools and process. A 10mm deep socket will come in handy here. Remove the two panels for bulb access. Also take out the center section of the interior section of the trunk. To do so you will have to take out the spare tire so you can pop the bottom part of this panel. With that popped you can lift it up and off. This will give you access to the seven nuts that hold the center Eclipse section. It will also make it easier to run some new wiring. With the center section off you can unbolt the right and left side taillights.First you need to transfer the wiring and attached bulbs and sockets from the all red American lights to the German set. A single Phillips screw holds the white socket to the light assemblies. The bulb and socket at the "arrow head" end needs to be swapped to the German lights as well.Mount the German lights into the tail section and secure with the nuts. Then the center Eclipse section.Keep in mind how the (US) lights are wired to work from the factory. This will help you understand the changes required to get the German lights wired. The driving and parking lights are all the way across, in other words all three sockets are energized. They use a twin filament, 1157, bulb. The low wattage filaments are used for the running and parking lights. The arrowhead ends never energize the high wattage filament, but fortunately they are there waiting for a new role. The two sockets toward the center use the high wattage filaments for brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashing. This is important to remember because a single wire feeds the signal for these functions. The same wire that sends the electrical pulse for the turn signal also sends the steady voltage for the brakes.The German taillights will need to be set up so the two center bulbs use the low wattage filaments for parking and running; and the high wattage for brake lights only. The arrowhead amber socket needs to have the high wattage filament dedicated to the turn signal and hazard voltage. Remember though that a single wire sends all three to the American taillights. So the trick is to remove the brake signal to that wire and only allow the turn/hazard signal voltage through.*Not Noted before* To prepare things you will need to move the pin in the arrowhead bulb connector from one side of the socket to the other. The center contact is ground and does not need to be moved. Take an awl and poke the contact out of the socket and also remove the rubber plug from the side you are moving it to. Put the rubber plug into the hole the contact came out of. This swap will mean that voltage will now activate the high wattage filament of the 1157 bulb. Now cut the wire you just moved about 3 to 4 inches away from the socket. You will be attaching a new wire to these "pig tails" later. Tape the rest of the wire you just cut (the chassis side) so it will not ground out on anything.You should end up with this.*Not Noted before* You will also need to swap the connections in the socket itself. Do this by Removing the pigtail and bulb. Then simultaneously press the black clips on either side of the center pin, towards the center pin and out (away from you). Once out. Turn the connection 180* and re insert it into the socket.Starting with thisPut it back in this way.End resultYou will need to go to Radio Shack and pick up a couple (two) 8 Ohm, 20-watt resistors (pn: 271-0120). These are ceramic resistors and will simulate the resistance of another bulb. Without this additional resistance the turn signals will "quick flash". But we will get to that later.The next step is to remove the turn and hazard signal from the wire that carries the brake light voltage. To do this you will need to access the hazard/signal flasher behind the radio. To gain access you will need to lift off the center console and the passenger side panel. I will assume that you either know or can find the directions on this.Once it is all off pull the connector off the unit. It has ten wires connected to it. As you look at the connector you will see one side has a notch. To the left and right of the notch are two wire contacts each. The one on the left closest to the notch is the one that sends the signal to the back.There is a gray clip that keeps the contacts in place so take it off (and don't lose it). Push out the contact identified prior. If you want to be sure you have the correct one take a voltmeter and probe the socket. You should see it activate when you press the brake pedal (duhh) and go to zero volts when you are off the pedal. When you have the contact pushed out of the socket, replace the gray lock and then tape up the wire you just removed so it cannot short on anything.Now put your radio back in and your console together.The next job is to send a brake signal to the two center sockets. To do this you need to run a wire from the signal that goes to the center "third" brake light. This is behind the panel under the rear window on the driver's side. There is a green/red wire that you will tap for its signal. To do so you will need to strip back some of the insulation and solder a new wire to it. This new wire will need to be fed to the tail light area.The white socket that hangs from the taillight bulb sockets are now ready for their surgery. First the driver's side. Strip back the insulation on the chassis side of the harness to reveal 3 wires, the ground (black) and the wire next to it (parking light voltage), stay. The gray/blue wire is cut leaving a 2-3" pigtail. The end that goes to the socket will be connected to the wire you soldered in the prior step(3rd brake light wire) and will also need to be daisy-chained over to the other taillight for the brake lights over there, but that comes last.The chassis side of the cut gray/blue wire will be extended to the amber corner socket on the left side. In addition you will need to connect the 8-Ohm resistors to a chassis ground on one end and this wire on the other. So from this single wire it splits into two wires. One to the resistor and ground and the other to the socket connector on the amber arrow. To explain this a little easier, ground one end of the resistor, and connect the green wire from the amber corner as well as the gray/blue wire to the other end of the resistor.Next is the right socket. The wire to be cut is gray/red. The socket side gets connected to the brake light wire daisy changed from the left light. The chassis side gets split again. One strand goes to the amber corner wire and and the other to the grounded resistor.VIDEO PROOF!http://vid237.photobucket.com/albums/ff120/unionfootball_88/20130423_203659_zps9c8c46eb.mp4I had a longer version but it had too many pictures. I was prompted to delete some and accidentally clicked cancel change. As I was in edit mode. However I still added the parts that the other how to was missing. If you need any more help. Please feel free to ask.
Continued from: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/452730-auto-dimming-mirror-conversion-part-1-a.htmlAuto-dimming mirror conversion for 2G DSMs: Part 2: Wiring the UnitTonight I finally started working on the wiring for my auto-dim rear view mirror. I've been itching to do this for the past couple days, but kept getting distracted by other things. But it is now figured out and is fully functional.So let's get started: I searched on a website known as ShopKey5 for the 300M auto-dim mirror wire schematic and came up with this diagram, which I took pics of and cropped them together.Don't be intimidated with the diagram though. You're only going to be using 2 wires; the Black w/LT green stripe wire (ground), and the Black w/DK blue stripe wire (fused ignition {run-start}). The only other wire we can use on our cars is the Violet w/black stripe (reverse lamp feed), but I haven't yet found info on what exactly it hooks to on vehicles that have this system standard. I do know its' purpose is to un-dim at night when the vehicle is in reverse so you can see clearer. I have never had an issue with my stock mirror being dimmed while backing up though, so I don't see this as a problem.I chose to use my power mirror power supply for this mirror. The light green w/black stripe wire is the ignition source for the mirror controls. Since I was there, I'm also using the mirror control ground wire too. It's the solid black wire, NOT the black w/yellow stripe wire.Once those are connected, route your wire harness up to the rear view mirror and plug it into the back. The mirror will now be powered once you turn the ignition on and it comes on automatically. You can then turn the mirror off with its' off button if you desire.Here's a video I took to show it functioning. It gets darker than it appears in the video, but this is just to show that it does indeed work. Enjoy....<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8F5kuZQSpeU?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I wanted a small and obscure switch to turn on my fans, and I found it right in front of me.Step 1: acquire cheap flashlight from harbor freight.step 2: take the rubber grommet off and pull out the switchstep 3: remove rear wiper plug and mark spot to drill. Be careful, it's a tight fit. Final hole size is 5/16"step 4: solder some wires to the switch and epoxy it instep 5: enjoy your small cheap switch with a very satisfying clickNote the quick disconnect connector. It'll make installing and removing the vents alot easier.On a 2g the ecu controls the fan. Connecting pin 20 to ground will activate both fans on hi and connecting to pin 21 will activate the cooling fan on low. pin 20 is the green/orange on the bottom plug on the ecu.
For comparison with the 2Gb information in:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/These are off a 11/94 production date 2G Eclipse GSX. For being the early year (95-96) there are 2 different plugs styles.The first is the location and plug style of the CAS. Its location is between the fuel rail and the intake cam gear, just below them. The wiring color is (from left to right): 1. black 2. blue with a red stripe 3. red.The next is the ABS module located front driver side, next to the power steering reservoir. It has 2 plugs. The plug to the left has 9 wires coming off of it and they are (from left to right then down to next row from left to right): 1. blue with yellow stripe 2. black 3. green with red stripe 4. green with yellow stripe 5. empty 6. yellow with green stripe (directly under #1) 7. red with black stripe 8. orange 9. red with yellow stripe 10. green with black stripe.The black plug to the right only has 2 wires coming off of it and they are both red wires with black stripes.
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