This article presents the procedure for the ignition system wiring changes when swapping a 1991-1994 ECU into a 1990 car with a 90 wiring harness, gauges, and coil. This procedure corrects the tach signal so your tach works with a 91-94 ECU. This procedure was covered on the KeyDiver web site which I give full credit for presenting the original wiring schematics. The procedure has been removed from the site and this article is provided to replace it. There is another procedure used for the ECU swap ignition wiring but that way is much longer and requires many more parts.converting a 1990 to a 1991-1994 ECU systemFor this process the only part needed is a power transistor from a 1991-1994 2.0 engine (N/T or Turbo).The 1990 coil...

We all are aware of the tried and true VFAQ 1G Fog Light Switch “Fix” that has you remove the spring inside the switch.Here is another way of fixing the broken fog light switch. Taking a closer look at the problem with the switch, I noticed that the problem was that a small piece of molded plastic broke off of the switch housing. And when I was testing the bulb of a spare rear window defroster switch, I noticed that it had the same plastic piece still on the inside of the switch housing. All I did was swap out the guts of the fog light switch and put them in the housing of the rear defroster switch. Volia! It works just like the factory switch. The hazard button and the pop-up button will also work, since they both have a push-on...

So, while I had the headlights out of my 92 Talon for the FMIC install, I had decided to do an LED bulb conversion. No site really listed bulbs that would work and it took a little bit of customization to get them to fit, but it wasn't hard. Follow along and I will try to make it simple. LED bulbs for a 1gb are 9005 and 9006 LED bulbs for the headlights and 880 LED bulbs for our fog lights. The fog light replacement is simple, just remove and replace with the LED bulbs. Our original headlight bulbs used halogen, I believe, that uses a metal strap to hold them into our housings. I had to remove the metal straps completely so the new LED's would seat (they have an oring on them to seal out moisture). After removing the strap, you need to...

In this guide I will be describing how I replaced the MPI relay for a 1990 Eclipse GSX with 3 Bosch-style relays. This approach is useful if you had a MPI relay go out and you don't want to pay over $100 for a new one or if you are worried about sourcing one of these units in time for a track-side repair. Keep in mind that at the end of the day it's probably still quicker/easier to just buy a new MPI relay but as these get harder to find I like the idea of having an alternative strategy.Disclaimers:This has not been tested very extensively. I put this in my car and it started/idled as it should which makes me feel pretty confident that this works. However, in testing this I determined that the rest of my wiring harness was too far...

Greetings from Europe!While trying to diagnose my cruise control not working, I found out that my speed sensor signal is absent. I was looking for some information online on how to fix it and the only answer I found was - just replace the whole gauge-cluster. Well, as you might imagine, these cars are getting more and more rare, so "just go find in junkyard" option might not always be available.In this article I will guide you through how to test and fix speed sensor in 1g Eclipse for only 3 bucks and 30min of your time.The easiest way to test if your speed sensor works without disassembling any of the interior is C-65 connector right next to left driver's foot. We are looking for yellow-white pin 11.Connect your multimeter...

Part 2 of the pictures for wiring a Dynakek ARC-2 box to a 1990 DSM using the 1990 stock connectors for plug and play status!For the beginning of this thread go here ----> https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/arc2-box-plug-and-play-in-a-1990-dsm-part1.524945/Here are the rest of my pictures from the install.

Wiring an Dynatek ARC-2 box to a 1990 DSMI have had a few members ask about how to wire in the ARC-2 box to our bastard 1990 year DSM's so I tried to take a lot of pictures and put together an article that can help and DOES work, including your tach.Wiring colors to use an ARC-2 box in a 1990, using 4 pin plugs to match the 1990 harness for plug and play operation. The 4 pin connectors can be bought at Sheridan Engineering’s connector section. You may be able to source the plugs elsewhere but that is where I got all of mine. If you do this and the box ever gives you trouble, you can just unplug the box and plug back into the coils to get you to your destination.When doing this conversion, you will be changing the stock ARC-2 3 pin...

To be clear, I’m not an electrician. Just a weekend warrior. So my blower motor stopped working and this is how I went about diagnosing it and I’m not 100% sure if it’s the correct way. Remove the glove box and you’ll see the blower motor connector in red.The yellow is your relay that’s secured by a screw you cant see that holds a c clamp around the relay.I used a test light to check for power at the blower connector with the key on and blower on. Wasn’t getting power so for now I can rule out the motor. When switching the fan speed you should here the relay click. I tested power there and it only came on on one wire when switching from speed 3-4 only. Idk if that’s normal. So I removed the resistor. It’s a pain to remove...

My radio kept cutting in and out. I didn’t see any write ups about this. Noticed it was fuse contact related. Wiggles the fuse and radio would cut in and out. To tackle this, you’ll need to be on your back under the steering wheel and be patient.Previous owner must have had the fuse in and out a billion times.Begin by disconnecting all the connectors on the front side of the block.The yellow connector on the top is a pain to remove with the block secure so remove it when you remove the block. Also when reinstalling, connect that same connector before you secure the block.Now that everything is off the front except for the yellow connector, time to remove the block. Remove the. 10mm bolt at the bottom and slide it off the...

Ok not reinventing the wheel guys I know this topic has been covered but I'm a guy that likes pics with how-to threads. And I couldn't find a lot on this certain subject so here it is..some of the steps I had to copy and paste when it came to pics because I just forgot to take a picture while doing the swap..My Saturn alternator swap was done on my 1990 eagle talon. I decided to do this swap after going through 3 reman alternators from autozone that were suppose to be good even tested good but were bad! I also did it because the Saturn alternator was cheaper then an oem replacement and last longer under extreme heat and puts out more Amps then the OEM unit.1.you will have to do a lil grinding on the alternator itself and on the...

Since this topic has come up a few times lately I am submitting my wiring diagram for properly wiring your fans to a toggle switch. See the diagram and you should be cooling good in no time!

Ok I figured this out while working on the wiring harness for my 1g turbo engine swap. There doesn't seem to be any information on this reroute at all, in the forums or articles, I am writing this tech article to describe it.The 1g factory routing of the engine harness makes no sense whatsoever. All the wires enter the engine bay on the passenger side, behind the battery. The bulk of the harness goes along the firewall to the driver's side, wraps around the intake manifold, follows the fuel rail, and ends at the thermostat... Back on the passenger side. This is what the factory route looks like:There are several threads on here about wire tucks. Hiding the wire harness behind the fuel rail so that the engine bay looks cleaner...

*****IMPORTANT***** Note that the wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture are as seen FROM the CONTROL HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. That is, you are looking at the wires going into the connector, OPPOSITE the side that is pictured. Like this: How to identify ECU pin numbers. *******************Consider this part two of The 1990 Engine Control Wiring Harness; this article covers the remaining electrical connections in the 1990 2.0L engine compartment as well as the handful of connectors that run to the interior on the driver side. For reference, the main diagram below is as viewed from the front of the vehicle; the...

It all started with a mod idea for N/A 1G DSMs that will allow addition of one extra gauge while keeping the instrument panel looking un-modified (1G gauge cluster setup). Finally was able to gather up all necessary materials to make it happen:Temporary paper gauge faces will be replaced with factory-style plastic ones after the design is finalized.The mod requires only basic tools: Flat screwdriver Two phillips screwdrivers, one regular, one precision Sharp knife and/or small saw blade (for trimming plastic) 1/16" and 3/16" drill bit Drill for said bits (can be hand cranked since it will only be used for drilling plastic) Soldering iron, flux, and solder Some spare wire For this let's start with a Turbo 1G (or an N/A cluster...

I've been trying to figure out my idle surge on my 90 for a while. It's running a 91+ TB/ISC.Started out replacing possible issues, has a good 90 ECU, new black top ISC and it still surged with no vacuum leaks. In fact all of my 90's surge with the 91+ TB on it.I found a post that it was possible the 90 wiring was different from the 91+ as far as the ISC went, but no evidence of it. Well I started digging through wiring diagrams and found some interesting information, two coils of the ISC are in fact swapped between the years. My one running 90 is currently missing it's injectors, so testing will occur once I get a new set to put in, but here's the diagrams.Anyone's opinion? First picture is a 90 Diagram, second is a 91 GVR4...

*****IMPORTANT***** Note that the wire color layout diagrams accompanying each picture are as seen FROM the CONTROL HARNESS SIDE of the connector with the release tab (for a male side connector) or locking notch (for a female side connector) on top. That is, you are looking at the wires going into the connector, OPPOSITE the side that is pictured. Like this: How to identify ECU pin numbers. *******************This is the ENGINE CONTROL harness. If you want information on the ENGINE COMPARTMENT harness, see: The 1990 Engine COMPARTMENT Wiring Harness.As we all know, the 1990 model year had many quirks to it when compared to the later model 1Gs. Because this was a single (and the first) year of the Eclipse/Talon/Laser trio...

Ok, this is a straight forward "How-To" on the replacement of the 1G injector clips for the much easier-to-use 2G injector plugs WITHOUT RE-WIRING!!!!Here the basic differences are noticable by the 1G having the wire clip to hold onto the injector, while the 2G doesn't, it uses (2) tension clips to hold them on. This is the basis for the whole project, just simple ease for the dsmer!Just a quick view of the plug(s) I cut from a 2G harness at the yard.First thing to do is use a small flathead screwdriver or a metal pick as I did, and just gently pry the gray clip off the back of the 2G plug from both sides. I found it much easier to release the single tab first, then the triple tab second, then it will just...

Take all the bolts off holding this piece of plastic on their should be 3 or 4 bolts. Carefully unclip all the sensors in the area after (4 fuel injectors - cam angle sensor - TPS - coil pack - transistor -thermostat housing (3) sensors be careful on these cause they are brittle also the ISC - O2 sensor - throttle plate sensor (remove the fuel rail bolts 1 by 1 to remove the cruise control cable and get it out of you way its a pain in the ass, l tuck it back out of the way.Here's the wire bracket off. Take our flat head and pry out on the tabs careful in case you want to use this piece again.Here's the firewall the harness runs along the wall with bolt brackets you can remove with zip ties holding them to it. Trace it all the way...

I decided to wire my parking lights with my turn signals. if you look at the plug its a 3 wire plug with only 2 wires. and it takes a dual filament bulb. everything is there you need to do this all you have to do is finish the connection. Things i used to do this: Butt connectors Wire with pins Wire cutters/ pliers basic tools to take lights off (screw driver) 1st thing i did was of course disassemble the lights. 1. take out 2 screws holding in center part. 2. i flipped up the lights 3. then took out the two screws holding in the turn signals 4. take out the bulbs 5. take out screws holding in parking lights 6. take out bulbs 7. then unplug the bulb socket from the connector. 8. get some wire and wire pins any small gauge will work...

I have been asked several times how to do this so I figured I would post the link that I got it from. Here are my finished pics.And for the tech writeup, thank JM Fabricationshttp://www.jmfabrications.com/coilpackrelo/index.html

Your going to be hard wiring your radar detector using the power from your overhead light assembly. As with all electrical modification it's allways a good idea to disconnect the battery. All supplies are available at Radio Shack. Tools needed. A. Electrical pliers, wire strippers. B. Screw driver Phillips. C. Female Quick-Disconnects. 16-14AWG size 1/4". Quantity 2. D. Ring Tongues 14-16AWG size 1/4". Quantity 1.1. Remove outter trim piece. This just pops off. 2. Remove the two screws keeping the actual light assembly on. 3. Disconnect the wire connector to the light assembly. Set aside for now. 4. Remove wires from connector. Strip them about 1/2". 5. Your power cord for detector should also be stripped...

Apexi AVCR Install in 1g ------------------------This install really isn't that difficult if you feel ok with tapping wires at your ECU, and in my opinion the hardest part is getting that horribly designed wiring harness threw the firewall. If you have not yet looked at the AVCR kit you've purchased now would be a good time.1. First off you need to find a place where you want to mount the AVCR display/control in your car. Several members of the forum make mounting brackets/kits that will allow you to mount them in several places. I simply put mine by the stereo and did a custom job.2. While you're playing with the cars interior it's time to pull out the stereo and side panels so you can get to the ECU's wiring. You're going...