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Street Build Calm Daily Driver/Zero Pucker Factor

Year:
1999
Model/Trim:
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
  • Ownership Status:
    Currently Own
    Turbo Type:
    16g
    Drivetrain:
    FWD
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Build Type:
    • Street
    Mods-Bolt-on:
    Injen intake, K&N Filtercharger, 90% emissions delete, kept EGR for intake volumetrics.
    Mods-Engine:
    Head oil passage bored over. After market oil guage on a T from the oil pressure switch.
    Mods-EMS & Logging:
    None.
    Mods-Drivetrain:
    None.
    Mods-Handling:
    Adjustable shocks all around. Not sure what brand.
    Parts Wishlist:
    DSMLink v3. New clutch.
    Background:
    I missed my 95 talon so much, I overpaid way too much for this car.

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  1. Miker1st
    Fast forward 48 hours to leak check.
    Leaks just as bad as it did before.
    Pulled the water block back off the head.

    Did a little research and found that the stock/oem o-rings for the water pipe are really fat. Like thicc status.

    Left it half apart and went to find o-rings.
    Got distracted with charge pipe silicone couplers and ordered 4 2.25"x3" with T-Clamps because the current steam hose that was used previously is super old, cracked, and an absolute bear to try and install/remove charge piping from.

    Remembered today that I needed o-rings. Was going to wait and swing by Napa (which I may still do) because I've heard they have the correct THICCness o-rings in stock.
    Also ordered 20 from Rockauto since they are in closeout for 41 cents a piece. Also ordered the right outside door handle since it's broken and was coming from the same warehouse.
    Got distracted again and went to see what else I could add to the order from the same warehouse to save on shipping since I need other things but not ready to spend a couple hundred bucks on parts.
    Found the upstream o2 sensor on closeout from the same warehouse at 18 bucks! score! Added that to the order and called it good coz I was already up to 60 bucks after shipping and the missus isn't going to be happy either way.
    So today, I'll swing by Napa on the way home to check for that o-ring to see if I can get silicone set by this weekend and leak check before OEMs come in next Friday. (I am not that patient when I am this close to finishing a project!)
  2. Miker1st
    So, working on list item #1, here is how it has turned out so far:

    Spent about an hour pulling the radiator/turbo to a place where I could get enough space to remove the bolt holding the water pipe to the block.
    Found that this still does not give enough play to remove the pipe from the water outlet block/thermostat housing.
    Spent another hour removing the hoses, wiring, and intake charge piping to the throttle body to get room to remove the water outlet/thermostat housing.
    Removed the water outlet block w/thermostat and cleaned all the silicone off both the head and the water block.
    Review of the water pipe o-ring showed no signs of damage. Test fit in the water block shows lots of play for the o-ring to slap around inside the water pipe inlet.
    Replaced o-ring with an o-ring from a harbor freight o-ring (it was about 0.219) kit that was closer to the outer diameter of the water block inlet.
    Against all advice pointing in the opposite direction, I slathered blue RTV silicone all around the water pipe inlet and the o-ring on the water pipe because my thoughts were, it's late, I've been working on this for a couple hours now, and I really don't want to have to pull it apart again to do this over.
    Siliconed the water block and returned it to the head.
    With all four bolts in the water block hand tight, I was able to get the water pipe bolt to line back up and go into the block.
    Tightened everything down. All hoses connected so as to close the water system back up. Looped lower radiator hose outlet from the bottom of water block to fill neck just to close the system without putting the radiator back in the car. I wanted to verify it didn't leak before reassembling everything. (I have learned this from experience and many hours spent pulling stuff back apart)
  3. Miker1st
    Thanks to luve2rallye with help on the fuel pump, the car now runs!

    Now that it is running and has been around the block a couple times in spirited fashion to set the new piston rings, there is a laundry list of things that need fixed before it can be driven at any length.
    1. Replace O-Ring on the water pipe behind the turbo where it connects to the water distribution block behind the thermostat. She's pissing coolant everywhere!
    2. New/better grounding for the fuel pump connection.
    3. More grounds from the battery to the frame.
    4. Get the blow off valve recirculation line hooked back up so I'm not wasting fuel due to loss of metered air.
    5. Flush cooling system.
    6. Change oil with Zinc additive.
    7. Figure out where I can loosen the Apexi turbo back exhaust so it isn't hammering away at the frame/rear cross member.
    8. Change the front axles, the right one is shot and bangs like a gnarly metal head in concert while making right turns.
    9. Figure out the Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer. It counts down, but doesn't actually keep the car running once the key is shut off. (Googling and intuition)
    10. Figure out the Greddy PRofec B-Spec II Electronic Boost Controller. I really don't remember/ever knew how this worked exactly. (Probably just googling)
    11. Spit polish the rear floor in the hatch below the spare tire and cover it with sound dampening material.
    12. Do the same for the back seat area as far up under the carpet as I can to tone down the interior road noise. Right now it sounds like an extremely angry WWII warbird (Which is absolutely F*kin awesome! But not practical.)
    13. Change oil again with more Zinc additive.
    14. Flush and refill cooling system again with Zerex G05 Orange.
    15. Paint it some other color that doesn't attract as much attention.
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