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1990 Talon Tsi English Racing build 2016

Specs & Mods

Ownership Status
Currently Own
Year
1990
Model/Trim
Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Turbo Type
GT35 Variant
Drivetrain
AWD
Transmission Type
Manual
Build Type
  1. Street
Mods-Bolt-on
FP HTA3582 turbo (the last version of it, 2014, using the smaller compressor housing with 84mm inlet).
Turbine housing is a T31 cast iron piece from ATP with 2.5" 4-bolt outlet, 0.63a/r, made for the GT35 turbine section, coated by Tirado in Texas. Turbine housing casting says "Garrett" on it.

Shearer Fab tubular exhaust manifold and hot parts kit made in 2009 (for T3 inlet turbos, designed to fit a T31 turbine housing into the stock position so it lines up with the stock downpipe position).

Tial V44 wastegate.

Magnus V3 Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold.
GSC S2 cams.
ETS 3.5" race intercooler.
BOOMBA throttle body 75 MM.
Evo TPS Sensor, MD628074
Megan downpipe, custom test pipe (Andre at Pina Motorsports), Megan 3" catback exhaust.
Fuelab 515 fuel pressure regulator. 43psi base pressure.
Fuelab 828 Series Fuel Filter, 6 Micron Micro-Fiberglass element, -6AN, Purple, mounted in the trunk.
FIC 1650cc high-Z injectors.
Resistor pack removed.
Flex fuel sensor.
Fuel pumps are 2 Walbro 255's in series. One in-tank, and one in-line. The inline is boost activated at boost onset, and is unpowered the rest of the time.

Fuel lines are Redhorse Performance hose and fittings. They are all -6AN all the way back to the trunk. These are some really good E85 hoses and fittings. They have a black nylon external braid and a stainless steel under-braid.
I have a few feet of Gates 4219BF Barricade Fuel Injection Hose (SAE 30R14 T2) in the trunk, from the tank outlet to the Fuelab filter. This is good E85 hose if you don't need the external braid. It is 225psi rated for "working pressure".

ER custom 3.5" diameter Speed Density intake pipe with K&N filter.

Moroso aluminum oil pan, part # 20960, has trap door baffles for slosh control. With Votex stainless drain plug and aluminum washers.

AEM cam gears.

Top Timing cover is a modified Zaklee cover, widened by about 0.35" and with a lot more polycarbonate in the mounting feet, plus steel drill bushings taking the bolt clamp load.
Sawed the OEM 1g timing belt cover in half for easier removal. This was more complicated than just sawing it in half.

Aftermarket oil cooler (Long Tru Cool) connected to the 1990 oil filter housing.
Wix 51381 oil filter.
Valvoline VR1 Full Synthetic motor oil. 5 quarts of 20w-50 plus 1 quart of 10w-30. Using 1 quart of 10w-30 lowers my oil pressure by 2-4 psi. It lowers the viscosity at 100 deg C from 20.5 to 18.8 cSt. That is still a "50".
FP 4AN inline turbo oil Filter with .030" orifice (black).

2 electric cooling fans:
SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61A 12" puller on the passenger side (SPAL part # 30101522).
Perma Cool 9" puller on the driver side.
They run all the time, hot or cold. Actually they run whenever the primary (intank) fuel pump is running.
I have a SPAL VA09-AP50/C-27S (11" pusher fan SPAL part # 30101502) which I want to mount in front of the radiator on the driver side. When I get that together I'll take off the 9" Perma Cool that is behind the radiator there. I don't want to skewer the SPAL to the radiator core. Want to make some proper brackets for it. It will be a winter project.

MotoRad #2040-180 "High Flow" thermostat (Winter only? Actually it seems ok for any ambient temps under about 92 deg F).
Koyo aluminum radiator w Gates Racing hoses.

Avid black steel motor mounts 75A durometer urethane.

Ignition system is stock (power transistor and coil pack). Power transistor is relocated to inside the cabin.
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs BPR7EIX (stock number 4055) at .017" gap.
NGK plug wires (blue).
TurboXS type H blow-off valve.
New non-cruise throttle cable from Mitsu obsolete parts warehouse!
Continued the rewire of my starter button all the way to the starter. So now the "start" circuit has no OEM wiring in it at all.

Alternator: NAPA 75 amp RAY 2138258 "premium reman". In the stock location.
Custom heat shield between the alternator and hot parts. Made from aluminum. The side facing the alternator is insulated with red silicone RTV with 0.008" thick fiberglass cloth embedded in it. Shield is attached to PS bracket.
Starter: New Bosch starter with solenoid. Bosch part number SR298N.
Miata small battery (regular lead-acid chemistry) NAPA part # BAT 7581R "Legend 75" .
CTEK MUS 4.3 Fully Automatic 8 Step Battery Charger LOL.
HALOTRON fire extinguisher.
_________________________
Mods-Engine
English Racing SLR 2.2 liter (short-long-rod) complete engine built for my car by English Racing.
ER spec Wiseco reduced compression height HD pistons for 2.2 liter, 9:1 compression ratio.
ER spec 153mm R&R rods (steel, not aluminum, according to Myles at ER) 100% US Made.
ER spec 94mm stroke Eagle crank. Mods to "make it better".
Kiggly Racing Main Girdle.
Rod and Main bearings are ACL Race Series. Clearance is around .0022 inches.
New OEM oil pump.
English Racing "Stage 5" race ported cylinder head, o-ringed, GSC super alloy valves 1mm oversize, GSC no-tick lifters.
Basic block and head are 6 bolt 1g DSM.
Cometic MLS Head Gasket.
Oil squirters in the crankcase are removed.
Balance shafts are removed.
_________________________
Mods-EMS & Logging
ECMLink V3 - with flex fuel updated firmware.
I sent my good shape no leaky capacitors 1990 original non-eprom ecu to ECM Tuning. They checked it out and did the eprom conversion.
GM Flex fuel sensor.
AEM 5 bar stainless MAP sensor part # 30-2130-75 (Replaces GM style Omni Power 4-bar MAP sensor) for speed density.
Running speed density with no IAT sensor.
AEM 30-2400 Boost Control Solenoid.
Mitsu OEM narrow band O2 sensor for closed loop operation.


Gauges are:
Autometer Tach
AEM 30-4350 Tru-Boost boost controller and gauge
AEM 30-4110 Wideband UEGO air/fuel gauge/controller. Bosch sensor is located in the downpipe.
AEM 30-4407 oil pressure gauge with 150 PSIG stainless sensor (30-2130-150) instead of the brass sensor. Sensor is remote located to the body with 3 feet of -4AN Vibrant stainless braided teflon hose.
I'm logging the oil pressure sensor with an ECU+ Silver Box which is very accurate for logging voltages and has very high input impedance so it isn't going to corrupt or damage the sensor in any way.
3.3-30 VDC blue digital Volts panel meter PM-123B from All Electronics.
Marshall Instruments CW00100 Liquid Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge for temporary use whenever I want to check my base fuel pressure.

My AEM 30-4110 wideband has always sent bad numbers to the logger. I'm currently switching it to an AEM 30-0300.

Fuel: Generally 40 to 60% ethanol in the summer, and 15 to 25% ethanol in the winter. The fuels I use are E85 or E98 mixed with 92 octane E10 or with 92 octane ethanol free "boat" gas from a marina or a CENEX gas station. I start adding only ethanol free gas to the tank in November, to reduce E% for the winter. Then in about late February I start adding E85 or E98 to the tank. I sort of level off at about E50 for my "summer fuel".
English Racing will sell you E98 for $7 per gallon if you bring your own tanks. Yup. Pretty nice.
_________________________
Mods-Drivetrain
Lucas English '91 tranny - Now broken (April 2019) - It was a stock rebuild, nothing fancy.
Tim Zimmer (TMZ Performance) is building a PPG dogbox transmission for it (summer of 2019). I don't want to blow up any more transmissions. It is getting too hard to find un-broken cores to start from. It's almost impossible now to build a good transmission without having an unbroken core to start from, because so many of the OEM parts are no longer available.
TMZ dogbox is finished and at English Racing (early October 2019). My car is at ER (late October). ER done with install (late November).
Lucas English brought the car back to me January 7, 2020, on his gigantic truck.
I don't like that the shifts are so variable. Sometimes they are pretty nice. Sometimes they are so violent that it sounds like damage. I'd like to have a clutch that gives me more pedal travel near the floor in the disengaged region of the travel. More disengage. Maybe that would help.

Quarter Master 8-leg twin disc "street version" clutch with blue spring (2550#), and flywheel. Bought from TMZ in January 2021. Installed by English Racing in April 2021.
Lucas English brought my car back on May 10, 2021, after installing the new Quarter Master clutch. Pedal now has plenty of travel in the disengaged region. Shifts are better with this clutch - a little less violent and less variable. Lots more disengage than the previous clutch.

Transfer Case - TMZ Stage #2 Transfer Case Build - 1.090 Ratio
Frontline Fabrication Billet Transfer Case Brace
Shot Peened Transfer Case Gearset
Tim built this T-case from the same 3000GT transmission that I sent to him for the dogbox build

Welded center diff (until Oct 2019).
Spooled center diff with PPG spool (after Oct 2019).
4-bolt LSD rear end from '93-94 (axles and diff).
Previous clutch: ACT MB1-XTSS clutch, w ACT organic street disk (until Oct 2019), w South Bend TMZ ceramic disc with 1" x 23 spline hub (from Oct 2019 to May 2021).
ACT streetlite flywheel until May 2021.

DriveShaft Shop AWD "Level 2 650HP" Front Axles. Bought new from Tim Zimmer in 2019, installed by English Racing. DSS Part number RA9797L2/RA9796/L2.

Rebuilt driveshaft - with new OEM parts (done by Nick Drake at PINA Motorsports in Kent Washington, in 2005).
Hanger bearings modified by Lucas English to stiffen up the rubber parts with hot-melt plastic glue.
Shifter is an OEM 91+ that I bought new a few years ago, and new cables.
________________________
Mods-Handling
H&R springs, KYB AGX struts, brembo sport rotors w stock calipers, Enkei 18" GF1 wheels.
Tires: 225 / 40ZR - 18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S on all 4.

Performance

Dyno HP
650 whp
Dyno TQ
510 lb/ft
Dyno Type
DynoJet
Dyno Sheet Photo Link
Dyno Shop Name
English Racing
Dyno Session Details
Conditions: 72 degrees F, 29.79 in-Hg, Humidity 26%, Fuel was approximately E60
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