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Resolved Will boost gauge read innacurate???

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SNAKE_15

10+ Year Contributor
572
48
Aug 28, 2012
Bakersfield, California
Haven't finished installing all my gauges yet and I don't get off work till 8 to see. In the mean time, i wanna know if my boost gauge will read accurate the way I routed it? I tee'd off the line that goes to the fpr solenoid and ran the line through the passenger side boot and to the instrumental dual pod cluster.
 

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That's the way I have mine bro! No problems for years! Your good! Just make sure the line doesn't get pinched. That's why I run prosport gauges, the sending unit stays in the engine bay and no worries of kinks!
What a relief. Just to make sure we're on the same page, it's the passenger side boot I routed mine and not the steering coulumn boot on the driver side.. That what you did too right?
 
Well I use a prosport gauge and doesn't have a line going in just wires. But my old gizzmo I had running thru the driver side somwhere probably next to the steering column. You will be fine as long as the route is clean, no sharp edges that could cut the line. And no sharp turns that can kink it. If all that is good you should be just fine bro! Just make sure where you ran it thru the boot it's not pinching the line at all! Also I would maybe run it thru by the drivers side if it was me, maybe not by the steering column, but a spot that doesn't have moving parts. The shorter the line the more accurate and less chance of problems!
 
You do know routing that way through the passenger side with that hose you are increasing the length drastically which will affect your readings, shorter is better. Try blowing through that line at 5 ft then 15 it takes more air/volume/pressure to travel a longer length, to long of hoses will allow them to expand or contract too much as well.
 
You do know routing that way through the passenger side with that hose you are increasing the length drastically which will affect your readings, shorter is better. Try blowing through that line at 5 ft then 15 it takes more air/volume/pressure to travel a longer length, to long of hoses will allow them to expand or contract too much as well.
I didn't think about it before and I chose that route so that the wires are hidden completely. I guess I should reroute the boost gauge line but leave my wideband their since it won't matter for that gauge?
 
Wires/hoses will be completly hid from the drIverside side as well, if you tapped into the fuel solenoid on the drivers side you shouldn't see any lines,. I ran mine through a hole in the firewall just under the fuel solenoid. Must use a rubber bung/boot so the vacuum hose doesn't get cut by the sharp metal from the drill hole in the firewall.
 
So you have yours like this?
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I would think that's a bigger pain/less accurate then this way.

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