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Where to ground block?

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South_Carolina
I wanted to add a new dedicated ground for both the engine block and the transmission.

I noticed the ground for the starter bolts to the transmisson bell housing, so would that ground out the transmission anyways? Or would it be best to add a dedicated ground?

As far as the engine block, does it matter where on the block you bolt the wire to?

And it's a better ground connection if you bring the wires to the battery correct? or is it better to actually go to the frame? My battery has a dedicated wire to the frame so I'm not sure.
 
Thanks everyone for all the explanations. I think everything above makes since, thanks for the block ground write up, that's what I was looking for. Also thanks to dsmcurse, for sharing your thoughts on CW, that made me feel alot better about the CW deal.

just on the slight topic of CW....regarding what you had mentioned about the heavy flywheels, would you happen to know if lightweight flywheels are more prefered? Obviously there's no guarnteed simple fix but I always like to read about what people report, I'll go ahead and see what I can find too, others opinions are always great to read though :thumb:

I have a 6 bolt fidanza flywheel with a stock clutch & pressure plate bolted on the newly rebuilt stage 2 transmission...I hope I'll be alright.
 
Yes if you have a six bolt engine you will never need to worry about crank walk. The worst cars for it was the 95 96 model year. When second gen was first introduced the lighter is better idea went to far. First gen seven bolts got thinner internal parts to cut weight to help the speed of the rev up. When 2Ga came out and it was the first ever 2nd gen seven bolt the whole lighter is better theme went to far. All the guts inside don't have as much beef as the other models. And not every 2G crank walked any how.

I've never seen or even heard of a six bolt gettin crank walk. I think I've met a guy once that claimed to have a first gen 7bolt crank walk but I don't know. There was a handfull of 95/96s that had this problem. But for every 95 eclipse that reported crankwalk there was probably at least 500 to that 1 that didn't CW. And those happy non crank walked engines you don't hear about... Just only hear about the broken ones.

As far as the wiring goes I don't claim to be a expert or nothin but I've been turnin wrenches for a living for over ten years and have worked in many shops doing everything from automotive to diesel to heavy equipment. For the most part I'd like to think I know what I'm talkin about. I've been a jet boat builder for about the last 6 years and learned A LOT about wiring working at the boat shops.

The wiring on the boats use a marine grade wire that's better than the standard automotive grade. I've rigged off shore boats that have had the most complicated wiring systems from isolated grounding systems to bonding straps to bildge compartment harness's built from scratch. The maranized engines that go into a jet boat (inboard) have altanators that have ground strap to block and coil pack that has ground to block. I've installed a lot of engines into off shore boats (ocean going) and had to create a bonding system to prevent electralsis as the boats don't have rubber tire connected to the earth but a aluminum hull riding in salt water.

I know all the uscg (US coast guard) standards, all the abyc (american boat yatch counsull) standards, all the nmma (national marine manufacture assication) standards and I have never ever not once heard of thrust bearing failure from wiring. I've attended auto motive tech school for awhile (which was a joke) and never heard anything like that. More so than any info a guy can read, the best info is working side by side with the old grey hair mechanics that have 30years experience crawlin around the cement floor. These old guys are the best damn knowledge you can get. And I've worked with a lot of old grey haired mechanics and have never heard any of that info from that link.

Just because you read it online doesn't make it true. Like "the internet can't lie" I love that! Ya wasn't tryin to sound smart assy or nothing earlier in post, just wanted to make clear crank walk isn't gonna happen from a lack of ground. Thanks for readin my long ass post. :)
 
Yes if you have a six bolt engine you will never need to worry about crank walk. The worst cars for it was the 95 96 model year. When second gen was first introduced the lighter is better idea went to far. First gen seven bolts got thinner internal parts to cut weight to help the speed of the rev up. When 2Ga came out and it was the first ever 2nd gen seven bolt the whole lighter is better theme went to far.

There have been a few reported cases of 6-bolt's walking. The 95/96 and 97-99 engines only differ in the thrust bearing design. The 95/96 bottom end is no weaker than any other 7-bolt (including 1st gen), just more likely to walk.
 
And the million dollar question is "will it be saved from adding additional engine grounds?"

Chances are probably not, but honestly I think it's one of those things that's impossible to prove / disprove. Who's to even say that's the cause of their problems. Still just a theory to me, it just couldn't hurt to add all the grounds you mentioned above, for alot of other reasons. I'm also hoping all the grounds will fix my small, really small battery drain. Won't know till I get all the new wires in. Again, I appreciate your write ups. This thread is resolved :thumb:
 
Well I sorta figured there was a explination... I just wanted the readers to know that they don't need to rush out and buy a ground wire as a insurance policy aginst CW.
 
does anybody have pics of the grounds and locations of where EXACTLY yall mounted them?? placement is very critical so as to why i ask, my ground at the floor of my hatch didm't work as good as the one on the shock tower. just trying to get a feel for it.

its a 1g
 
It's a small piece of metal shaped something like an "L", that goes over the upper right (front) intake manifold to TB stud, and screws into the top of the TB with a phillips screw.

Sorry... don't have a pic handy at the moment.

So THAT'S what that is.. well I'll be damned.

Nope, don't have it. :p I've just got an eyelet under a TB elbow stud nut. I wonder if I still have it in my box of spare parts...
 
So THAT'S what that is.. well I'll be damned.

Nope, don't have it. :p I've just got an eyelet under a TB elbow stud nut. I wonder if I still have it in my box of spare parts...

For future reference and to give folks an idea of what you guys are talking about: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/318002-question-ips.html#post151694585

does anybody have pics of the grounds and locations of where EXACTLY yall mounted them?? placement is very critical so as to why i ask, my ground at the floor of my hatch didm't work as good as the one on the shock tower. just trying to get a feel for it.

its a 1g

See the attachments below. These are straight from the FSM.
 

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  • 1g_GroundsInterior2.jpg
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