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Posted by marck_c, Apr 24, 2008
Cylinder Head & Short Block - 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.
Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
Increase the spring tension/rate and/or decrease the cams then you can keep revving until the cows come home or the bottom end blows out; whichever comes first. The optimal situation would be a conversion to double springs or those with extremely high rigidity and maintain a moderate or stock cam lobe.
The only other concern would be if the timing belt will be able to maintain extremely high RPMs, although a kevlar belt should account for that.
The durabilty of the timing belt, and it's accuracy at high rpm, with the attendant stretching issues, were some of my concerns. What rpm limit have you guys seen these belts survive reliably at.
Custom 83.5mm 10.0:1 Ross Pistons
Carillo Rods w/ ARP Fastners
ARP Head Studs, Mains, etc
MLS Head Gasket
Brian Crower Stage 3 Cams
Ferrea Dual Interferance fit Springs, w/Ti Retainers
DNPerformance Tubular Header
Ferrea 1mm OS Valves
Extrude Honed Stock Intake Manifold
Ported and Polished 1g Head
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer
Custom Moroso 3-Stage Dry Sump Kit
Evolution 8 Intercooler
Haltech E6X ECU
That was also on stock (Mitsu) timing belts, as the kevlar ones I've only seen come around in the past several months. I do not know what kind of duration the upgraded versions can get at those rpms, but the stock ones maintaining were always a concern and caused many broken hearts when frayed.
Likewise with the Cower 3's and double springs, you'll be putting a good bit more wear/tension on the belt, so it may be of concern if you intend to keep it up there for any duration. What were you using this for?
http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf) for charts on the forces involved.
plenty on the 3052.
And I will disagree.
Do we know what track he runs? Or what corner he's thinking about not having that extra shift? Or maybe he hits 170 on the front straight, and right now he's RPM limited. Point is, he wants the extra RPMs to play with for a reason.
I'm building a head for higher revs and I can think of a couple corners where I'll be able to stay in second instead of the quick upshift to third, then back down to second. That's worth it to me.
Just a thought.
I wouldn't rev past 10k though. That's what i was trying to say, regardless of what type of race it is..
Well, in drag racing, if you get fast enough, you get to a point where you dont have a chioce with the stock type tranny.
You've got the good valvesprings. Get a good timing belt if you're worried about that.
Nope. I'm not forgetting. You're moving air with less velocity using a tiny stroke vs. a stock 4g63 stroke. The stroke determines piston speed. Piston speed determines velocity. The velocity determines the required port and valve diameter. The stock stroke and matching velocity starts to see a mach number that exceeds ideal for the stock valve diameter after 9K with an 88mm 4g63 stroke. So I would assume you're ok, without putting the effort into the math.