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What filler rod do you use for intercooler piping?

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compression

15+ Year Contributor
1,433
11
Dec 9, 2004
vero beach, Florida
I have been having alot of trouble welding intercooler piping, and i have become convinced that my filler rod may be giving me the trouble, its IA 4043 3/32's rod,

Now using a ck9 with a 3/32 2% lanthenated tungsten tried on all kinds of different a/c balance settings, amperage , and 20 cfh argon.

I put just enough amperage to get a puddle on both sides but i cant break the oxidize film off the filler rod when i put it in unless i add more heat, then the intercooler pipes melt away from each other..

A video would be AMAZING , just a quick video welding intercooler pipes together.
 
You'll need to take an air/electric powered abrasive pad and knock all the coating off. Nearly all aluminum is coated to protect against corrosion.

The coating has a melting point of something like 2000*. So the aluminum will melt away underneath before ever puddling.

I take the air gun and scuff it real good then a quick blast of brake clean.
 
the oxide film is about 3200, and the aluminum 1200 or 1600 idr. But i can establish a puddle on the piping, just when i add the filler it goes to shit.
 
the oxide film is about 3200, and the aluminum 1200 or 1600 idr. But i can establish a puddle on the piping, just when i add the filler it goes to shit.

Ok, i knew it was a good bit higher then the aluminum.

You sure you removed the coating from both sides? It sounds exactly like the problems i had when i forgot to do so.
 
No coating unless its painted, powder coated, etc. The oxide layer is naturally formed almost instantaneously after cleaning.

As for your welding issue, what is the base material? Different grades of aluminum require different types of filler rod.
 
The oxide layer is naturally formed almost instantaneously after cleaning.

You still need to remove it. Thats tig basics.

Taken straight from "Beginner Guide to Aluminum"


"Tip #1 -- Clean the aluminum. This is the most important tip I have. I read this in several places before I began to practice welding, but it didn't seem so sink in and I wasted a lot of metal by trying to weld two pieces of dirty aluminum together. ALUMINUM THAT LOOKS BRAND NEW AND CLEAN IS ACTUALLY DIRTY. IT'S NOT LIKE STEEL.

Here are some of the signs that your aluminum is dirty.
A wandering arc -You can't get a puddle started without burning through or distorting the metal
Your filler won't blend into the puddle, instead it rolls into a difficult to re-melt ball.
The aluminum seems to have surface tension, like beads of water on a waxed surface.
When trying to join 2 pieces the edges curl away from each other and form an even bigger gap.

Here's what's happening: Aluminum quickly forms an more or less invisible coating of aluminum oxide. Aluminum oxide melts at three times the temperature of aluminum. When you try to weld uncleaned aluminum, the aluminum under the aluminum oxide coating will melt but the aluminum oxide coating will stay solid and act as a membrane, much like a water balloon. When you finally succeed in penetrating the coating, the very runny aluminum inside will flow out all at once, much like a bursting water balloon.

Here's how I prep the aluminum for welding.
First, I spray the aluminum with acetone. Don't use brake cleaner unless it's 100% acetone. If you need convincing, check this out -- Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Article Thanks for the tip Andrew!
Then, I rinse the aluminum in water, just in case there's any nasty residue. The aluminum should be completely dry before welding, including all of the nooks and crannies.
Then, I use a stainless steel brush (make sure the brush is stainless, I've read this is important) to scrub the aluminum shiny clean around the area to be welded.

Some articles I've read suggest that the aluminum should be scrubbed in one direction only to avoid working contaminants into the aluminum. I don't always follow this rule and I haven't noticed any problems stemming from it, but I'm not working on anything too critical and I'm far from an expert. I've also read that 3M Scotchbrite pads are a good way to prep aluminum. If you do not weld on the aluminum immediately after cleaning, you should give it a touch up cleaning before you start to weld. I've read eight hours exposure after cleaning is the maximum acceptable without re-cleaning."


Welding - Beginner Guide to Aluminum

As for your welding issue, what is the base material? Different grades of aluminum require different types of filler rod.

The average intercooler piping seems to be 6061 and if that were the case the 4043 hes using will be the easiest to weld with because of the silicon.
 
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Well, AC balance is supposed to help immensely with that oxide layer, to where you shouldnt have to do much beyond a good thorough acetone wipe down I've witnessed people weld my intercooler pipes right in front of me with less then 15-20 seconds of prep and come out beautiful.

As far as AC balance goes, Ive gone with the common 70% En, 65%, pretty much from 80% En, to 80% Ep! just to find out what the hell my problem is. Note, on the longevity tigs, its known as Clearance Effect, which i believe is somehow an AC balance "simulation" or something.. idk. it DOES make a substantial difference depending on how its set.

I have managed to get some decent little beads here and there on the pipes (only aluminum ive ever tried ), but i cant weld them together, it just melts the sides away from each other whenever i add enough heat to attempt to break the oxide film from the Filler Rod.

Do you think 3/32's is just too big for the low amperage i have to go with? Maybe if i could adjust my Frequency it may be a little easier? Its stuck and the 60Hz on this particular machine.

Here are some of the signs that your aluminum is dirty.
A wandering arc -You can’t get a puddle started without burning through or distorting the metal
Your filler won’t blend into the puddle, instead it rolls into a difficult to re-melt ball.
The aluminum seems to have surface tension, like beads of water on a waxed surface.
When trying to join 2 pieces the edges curl away from each other and form an even bigger gap.

H

BINGO!

i don't have an issue with starting the arc, establishing a puddle, nor surface tension? (that i have noticed)

I am quite embarrassed to say i havent wiped any of this aluminum down with acetone, i just kind of wiped it down with paper towel, it came straight out of a plastic packaging from extra pieces i have had.. So i suppose that would most likely be the cure.


Wow, i use brake cleaner on pretty much all of my dirty parts... That is extremely scary, as i work in my garage alone and i have two little girls 15-20 feet away from me in the house! OMG
 
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BINGO!

i don't have an issue with starting the arc, establishing a puddle, nor surface tension? (that i have noticed)

I am quite embarrassed to say i havent wiped any of this aluminum down with acetone, i just kind of wiped it down with paper towel, it came straight out of a plastic packaging from extra pieces i have had.. So i suppose that would most likely be the cure.

I always take it a step further than that even. Take the air grinder out with the green pad(forget the name) and rough it up a bit. Its aluminum so some wet sanding always takes it right back to a mirror finish anyway.

Then after i hit both sides and any edges with the green pads i soak em down with brake clean and give em a good shake.

It should be a piece of cake afterwards. You'll most likely have to turn the machine down even. Its pretty amazing the difference it makes.

Example of the green pad i was referring to:
 

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STOP TELLING PEOPLE TO USE BRAKE CLEANER!

Ok give me a day or two and I'll get you a video. I hardly use acetone or a wire brush to clean mine. A pic of your intercooler pipes? To make sure it's not anodized? That will give you a hell of a time welding it.
 
You have to stay away from any chlorinated products. Most brake parts cleaners today aren't chlorinated and all the new stuff are usually comprised of acetone/xylene/methanol and ethylbenzene. Those pads are called surface conditioning pads and those are great for aluminum. Another thing though with acetone, wear gloves cause your skin will absorb the acetone and that over time is a no no.
 
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