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nsgk53

10+ Year Contributor
96
2
Sep 28, 2011
lith, Illinois
Own a 98 mitsubishi eclipse gsx 5 speed revised 7 bolt. Last year the bottom end was built with a stage 2 build for 650hp. It was built with performance internals and the crank was cut. The head had work already done and was a stage 2 head with 272 cams. The Anyways my car would leak oil after driving it and i would see the drips on my driveway. Long story short a bad oil pump. Had to keep up on the oil daily. Drove it on the highway for maybe 20 minutes one day last week and went 100hp at 17psi for about 5 minutes. I was trying to show a friend I was with my car. I guess since I had that pad oil pump i lost a little oil. From when turning my car on to the highway and to my destination I only drove the car 25 minutes. Once i got where i was going my motor started knocking and only when going over 2k. So i parked it and had it towed home. Since then i havent drove it and next day a friend looked came over and with out taking a part my motor he knew it was a rod knock for sure. few hours later I explained what to my mechanic who built the motor and he said he can do the work for $1500-$1800 which would include new king bearings, cutting the crank, labor, taking the motor out of the car and doing the work from the bottom of the engine to save time. Cutting the crank would be $150 the most, new king bearings $200 the most so $350 together. To me if they charge me $1800 and take away for the parts that would be $1450 I feel like thats a lot. Am i wrong to think that? What do you think it should cost to have all this done at a shop? I mean since they built my motor i had few problems that they would never take care off so i feel like i should be getting a better price.

What shops in Illinois would you guys recommend me to go that would do a great job and give me a better price? I was thinking boostin but there not cheap. Also i would like to have this done before shootout. The shop who said they could do the work said they could take me in this week and have it done in a week.

I have a running jdm 6 bolt 4g63 with 55k miles. I was told by few people to put that in my car but its stock and I would hate to know i have a built motor that could be fixed and not in the car and also that I had a built motor before. Some say since I need a motor ti just use it but I want to sell it. Its actually up for sale as we speak for $1000. It the jdm version so it has the red valve cover and 510cc injectors. It doesnt come with a turbo, timing belt or oil cover. It has the evo 3 exhaust manifold and a 2g intake manifold. For more money im selling the pte 5252 ball bearing turbo.

I just dont know what to do? Want to go to shootout with my car but need to fix my motor but im getting a high price for the work to be done. Also i have a 6 bolt but then I wont have a built motor and ill need a 6 bolt flywheel. I dont know how to take out a motor and never have before and I dont know how to build a motor so I cant do it my self and save money. I mean i work on my own cars but anything like rebuilding/building a motor/trans isnt something im good at. I know how to take down a trans and replace the clutch and flywheel but thats about it for the trans. If i do go with the 6 bolt for now I will have to pay someone to take out the 7 bolt motor and put in the 6 bolt motor. Then ill want a built motor again later on and the right thing would be to fix the 7 bolt since I already have a good amount tide into it that ill have to pay someone again to take the 6 bolt out and put in the 7 bolt so there goes more money when i could have just fixed the 7 bolt in the first place and just have that one taken out and put back in to not be spending money I dont need to.

So im confused on what to do, where to go and what is the smart way to go buy all this
 
Do maintenance on the 6 bolt, and drop that thing in there.

Then spend the time and money to REALLY build the "built" motor better. That 6 bolt you should be able to throw quite a bit at in stock form as long as you make sure the basics are good on it.

Then, worst case, you can sell the 6 bolt as a verifiable good running motor, sell it, and swap in your built motor without missing a beat.
 
Do maintenance on the 6 bolt, and drop that thing in there.

Then spend the time and money to REALLY build the "built" motor better. That 6 bolt you should be able to throw quite a bit at in stock form as long as you make sure the basics are good on it.

Then, worst case, you can sell the 6 bolt as a verifiable good running motor, sell it, and swap in your built motor without missing a beat.

Here is the thing. I would have to pay someone to take my 7 bolt out and install the 6 bolt. Then once the 7 bolt is built right again ill have to pay someone once again to take the 6 bolt out and install the 7 bolt. I feel like the right thing to do is do it right the first time and save money
 
Here is the thing. I would have to pay someone to take my 7 bolt out and install the 6 bolt. Then once the 7 bolt is built right again ill have to pay someone once again to take the 6 bolt out and install the 7 bolt. I feel like the right thing to do is do it right the first time and save money
If you can pull the tranny then you can pull the motor, just a few more bolts and wires. Label the wires before you pull and it will be a breeze.
 
If you can pull the tranny then you can pull the motor, just a few more bolts and wires. Label the wires before you pull and it will be a breeze.

That might be true but I had help from youtube. If there wasnt the video i watched telling me step by step what to do I wouldnt have known what I was doing. With me working a lot I dont have time to take the motor out. Im not trying to make excuses but still. I know if I did it my self i would save my self money but even if a shop did it for me the price i was given seemed to be on the higher side
 
In that case if you're not DIY'ing it, then the prices quoted before, assuming a wty is involved, is about the right price. You've got to figure the time the shop will have into r&r, machine time, assembly etc.
 
In that case if you're not DIY'ing it, then the prices quoted before, assuming a wty is involved, is about the right price. You've got to figure the time the shop will have into r&r, machine time, assembly etc.

They are just replacing the bearings, cutting the crank, taking out the motor and doing the labor for that price
 
taking the motor out of the car and doing the work from the bottom of the engine to save time.

Nope. The head has to come off and be cleaned in order to remove all the metal that was being pumped through it. Anything other than a complete tear down will likely leave you with another trashed motor.




Also i would like to have this done before shootout.

With me working a lot I dont have time to take the motor out. Im not trying to make excuses but still. I know if I did it my self i would save my self money but even if a shop did it for me the price i was given seemed to be on the higher side

Well, you better be ready to pay a premium to get this all done on that short of a timeline. And, if you're not turning your own wrenches, you're going to have to pay someone who will. How much that person charges almost always correlates to the quality of work and the end result the customer actually receives. Shops like @Boostin Performance do quality work, and therefore charge accordingly. $1,800 seems like a fair price to me, but based how you're saying that shop intends to do the work, you may want to pass and find someone who will do it correctly.

My advice would be to take a week off of work and get to dropping in that 6 bolt if you want to make the Shootout. Sort out that 7 bolt mess when you have more time and money.
 
Do maintenance on the 6 bolt, and drop that thing in there.

Then spend the time and money to REALLY build the "built" motor better. That 6 bolt you should be able to throw quite a bit at in stock form as long as you make sure the basics are good on it.

Then, worst case, you can sell the 6 bolt as a verifiable good running motor, sell it, and swap in your built motor without missing a beat.
I agree here put the time in buddy.
 
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