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what are the pros and cons of automatic and manual transmissions?

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RedEyeBanDiT

15+ Year Contributor
207
1
Dec 4, 2006
Rowley, Massachusetts
hey im new to these cars and want to learn more before i decide to buy one.

i was wondering what is better for drag racing, an automatic or manual?

which would be faster/quicker with simple mods (intake exhause bov uppipe) ?

what launches better for dragging? which is worse on the car the auto or manual launch?

whats known to break more, the autos or standards ?

thanks im a newb!
 
Exactly,everyone is saying autotrans for drag..Will someone delete that rebuilding is a pain on Knochgoon's post..I have only rebuilt one auto and one manual tranny in my life, and I must say that with the proper tools, the auto was MUCH easier to rebuild..There are alot of upgrades out there for auto trans as well..Man valve bodies, shift kits, better shift solonoids, tranny coolers,..EagleTalonTim sell those wonderful auto shift boxes, if you feel the need to shift.. point is there are tons of stuff for performance in an auto tranny..

I deleted it. I was going off the word of a friend. :shhh: Oops.

I've yet to see the manual valve bodies for our cars. The shift kits are nice, and tranny coolers are a must.
 
I'd say go with the 5 speed. Automatic transmissions take a lot of the fun out of drag racing and as far as I've looked more expensive to upgrade then a manual trans.

they are not more expensive at all!

to upgrade an auto to hold more power you will need the following
-end clutch kit $89
-shift kit $92
-trans cooler ~$90
-restalled converter ~$400
-labour for the internal work ~$300
-synthetic fluid ~$100

so for about a grand you get a trans thats very capable of holding 500hp. compare that to a manual.
-clutch
-flywheel
-TOB
-etc....

I don't know the exact prices for these things but they add up quickly to be more than the auto.
 
they are not more expensive at all!

to upgrade an auto to hold more power you will need the following
-end clutch kit $89
-shift kit $92
-trans cooler ~$90
-restalled converter ~$400
-labour for the internal work ~$300
-synthetic fluid ~$100

so for about a grand you get a trans thats very capable of holding 500hp. compare that to a manual.
-clutch
-flywheel
-TOB
-etc....

I don't know the exact prices for these things but they add up quickly to be more than the auto.

I have a manual that was built be tre but im considering swaping over to an auto once my 5 speed goes out or if i decide to drag the car more often. Also you cant beat how reliable and consistent autos can be.

Ive seen some auto trannys with the "blue wire mod" and fresh fluid running real fast times. This goes to show how underrated these trannys are!
 
I have a built Auto trans from IPT with 3300 stall. A year ago i was running that setup on a 16g on 18 psi. It was really cool practically having the 16g fully spooled on the line before launch. I can honestly say out launching 5 speed subaru's and some evo's was pretty fun.
The power potential and consistency is great with a great spool up off the line. Im going with a new setup this year with a Gt35r. Im really curious how that will spool up, i might need Anti-lag and nitrous.
5 speed s are fun but i would take the Auto for a big race, at least i wont be sad that i missed a gear ;)
 
Yeah thats true, but i have decided to go full stand alone AEM. Let's see how that will work or DSMlink. IPT does have a modified valve body for us, thats what i have in mine.
The whole negative Auto opinion of some people that like to shift can change, when you see how mean the launch on an auto is. I do not look at parasitic loss as an issue because enough torque will get you down the track, not to mention the launch makes up for it. It can be a bit expensive, but rebuilds wont be an issue for a while. There are external problems that 5 speeds have such as breaking axles and wasted clutches having to drop tranny for. All in all everyone has their niche :cool:
 
I have a built Auto trans from IPT with 3300 stall. A year ago i was running that setup on a 16g on 18 psi. It was really cool practically having the 16g fully spooled on the line before launch. I can honestly say out launching 5 speed subaru's and some evo's was pretty fun.
The power potential and consistency is great with a great spool up off the line. Im going with a new setup this year with a Gt35r. Im really curious how that will spool up, i might need Anti-lag and nitrous.

I hope you turned up the boost on that 16g to at least 22 psi before switching to a 35R..You will HAVE to turn up the boost on that 35R, 18 psi ain't gonna do it...I have had both, still own both turbos..I wish I would of had my Meth kit before I took off the Evo 16g..My IPT re-stall had no problems stalling it on the line..
The GT35r is another story, still loads of fun on the street, just don't ask it to spool up on the line...
 
So long as you
are still using the same large dia convertor, it will be efficient from 5k
onwards. That's why your 40mph at 7k in 1st matches the graph. The
smaller dia high stalls are more inefficient up top. I use a 3.2k stall
so I still have decent engine braking.

What smaller diameter converter are you referring too ? I've been checking the junkyards for a possible smaller diameter converter to improve stalling on the line..
 
What smaller diameter converter are you referring too ? I've been checking the junkyards for a possible smaller diameter converter to improve stalling on the line..
Convertor tech might have been posted elsewhere. This is my quote
The 10" convertors put into 1g/2g autos for racing etc are not std
They are donor casings with our stator/spag etc machined to fit
The 10" can be modded to 4000+ rpm stall for big turbos, cams & no nos
Our 11" from memory can be modded to 3500 rpm stall max I think ?
The 11" slips less above 4k than a 10". Meaning more efficient on fuel & times
I'll probably get shot down for this but, an 11" with nos beats a 10" without
Cheers !
 
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