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2G Weird problem, car doesn't want to move as if driveline or brakes binding

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True, i have a Welded C-diff..

I know this is steering away from this thread, but how does that make any sence, if the VC is at the very end of tranny, how does replacing it do anything since there is no shaft connected to it. ?

Idk what you mean by replacing I guess. If you mean swapping for the eliminator, then it does the same thing as welding the center diff. It locks the front drive output and tcase output together. The tcase input shaft is splined to the center diffs spider gears, and normally has the viscous coupler connected to both pieces, allowing a certain amount of slip.
 
So finally figured this out, or at least narrowed down a good bit. It is the brakes locking up, unplugging the vac hose to the booster frees them right back up. I assume this means the booster is bad, or could something else cause that? There is a kink in my FR braided SS flex hose but that has been there since before I had the car and it's never pulled under braking, which I assume it would if that were the issue, plus I don't think that unplugging the booster would free that up.
Also was wondering, is there supposed to be some kind of check valve between the booster and vacuum source?
I didn't really check to see if it had one or not, but am wondering if perhaps there is supposed to be one, and isn't, which messed up the booster? And even if there isn't supposed to be one, would it be a good idea to put one in?
 
There should be a check valve in the intake manifold to brake booster hose. Stock one is gray. You should be able to blow through it toward the intake manifold only.

FYI - If the fluid can't flow back into the master cylinder reservoir some of the calipers may drag. The simplest test is to drive for a bit, and safely coast down to a stop away from the road, engage the emergency brake and than do a hand temperature test. Put the back of your hand close to the center of the wheel, but don't touch the wheel or the rotor. Feel the radiated heat. If a caliper is sticking it should feel scorching from a couple of inches away. If all four feel scorching it could be the master cylinder. If it's only the rear two it may be the parking brake mechanism.

Good luck.
 
Well did you figure this out? I was thinking of replacing my brake booster but it's a lot of work and I haven't noticed any brake booster symptoms recently.

According to my diagnostics info which is from the FSM, there is supposed to be a check valve in the vacuum hose right where it attaches to the brake booster and you can diagnose it with a vacuum pump.
 
I don't have my car on the road atm, as I decided I may as well upgrade my brakes, since I just got done replacing the MC and booster, and have to bleed everything anyways. It helps that I scored some Evo 8 wheels for a good price too. But 99% sure it was the booster, not sure if MC could cause the issue though, but it was definitely one or the other, I wound up just replacing both for piece of mind, plus I went to a 1" diameter MC. You don't even need a vacuum pump to test the check valve, just blow through the hose. I had forgotten that the valves are actually inside the hoses, mine is in fact still in place. I didn't see brake fluid on the booster, so it seems that it failed all on it's own.
 
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