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Not too bad if it's an improvement. However, it may be a good idea to dip both sides of the canvas. Back in 2014 I dropped my head liner as much as I could and sprayed a canvas sealant on the under side that was supposed to work. It worked going through the car wash at the dealership I worked at back then, but within two weeks it stopped working. I never did treat the outside surface though. Maybe it's worth doing to both sides...

Here's part of my on-going leakage. Since the day this happened, I've carried a tarp in the trunk for emergencies.

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I think part of the problem with these canvas tops is that once water soaks the material it wicks through where ever it touches something solid. Something to do with the surface tension being broken or something I'm sure.

I too have a nice big blue tarp in my trunk. For months after buying the car I had no idea how bad the top leaked until we went on vacation for a week in Florida. It rained here at home the whole time. I had to get a lot of water out of the car after that. Since then, I've just kept a bunch of towels in the car and tossed the tarp over the top during BAD storms.
 
I've also been shopping around for a new top as my glass completely separated from mine. Sad thing is mine doesn't leak at all anywhere and it's in great shape :( I've been looking at a few company's on ebay and they have great reviews as well as a guide on how to install. I'm going to tackle this project this coming winter and take step by step pictures to help anyone who needs it.
 
I just took this video 5 minutes ago. The top is due for another respray soon. Its been about 10 or 11 months since I last applied it. $5 a can at walmart. Way better than that plastidip. Honestly, I dont even know why I am still bothering with this thread. You guys dont even care to listen, still believing plastidip is the answer.

https://vid.me/6WsR
 
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Doubleot said:
I've also been shopping around for a new top as my glass completely separated from mine. Sad thing is mine doesn't leak at all anywhere and it's in great shape :( I've been looking at a few company's on ebay and they have great reviews as well as a guide on how to install. I'm going to tackle this project this coming winter and take step by step pictures to help anyone who needs it.
Click to expand...

Please do!!

lasthope05 said:
I just took this video 5 minutes ago. The top is due for another respray soon. Its been about 10 or 11 months since I last applied it. $5 a can at walmart. Way better than that plastidip. Honestly, I dont even know why I am still bothering with this thread. You guys dont even care to listen, still believing plastidip is the answer.

https://vid.me/6WsR
Click to expand...


I'm not a fan of plastidip by any means, I'm just looking for alternatives that'll help until I can replace the canvas. What is it that you used?
 
spyderdrifter said:
I'm not a fan of plastidip by any means, I'm just looking for alternatives that'll help until I can replace the canvas. What is it that you used?
Click to expand...

I linked it in one of my previous posts. You have to clean the top first really well (I use surf city convertible top cleaner, also available at walmart). Allow it to full dry for a couple hours in the sun or until the next day and then apply the waterproofer.

lasthope05 said:
To the OP, if its just the waterproofing thats worn and the top is not ripped, I would just use an outdoors silicone wateproofer. This is what I use ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/Atsko-Silicone-Water-Guard-10.5-oz/29873159 ). $5 a can and I do it once a year. Works extremely well. Once you start spraying crap like plastidip, you will ruin the top.
Click to expand...
 
Upon driving to work this early evening in a steady rain, it has been found that the Plasti Dip indeed does very little to seal the top...at least the number of coats that two and a half cans provided. I still have the typical heavy drips where water collects in the frame above the side windows then surprises you when you make that first turn or stop.

Oh well, at least it looks better!
 
spyderdrifter said:
Awesome, thanks. Will look for that cleaner too.

One other thing, do you know how this stuff holds up to a pressure washer?
Click to expand...

It holds up to washes but, as with all topical coatings, the less you touch it the longer it stays. It goes without saying no chemical cleaners and only the occasional shampoo if necessary. Otherwise, the top just gets a brushing with a stiff bristle brush with it looks dusty.
 
lasthope05 said:
It holds up to washes but, as with all topical coatings, the less you touch it the longer it stays. It goes without saying no chemical cleaners and only the occasional shampoo if necessary. Otherwise, the top just gets a brushing with a stiff bristle brush with it looks dusty.
Click to expand...

That works. I normally don't wash my top due to the leaks anyway.
 
If you guys are getting water there, you need to clean out the water channel in the A pillar and tighten the latches.
 
lasthope05 said:
If you guys are getting water there, you need to clean out the water channel in the A pillar and tighten the latches.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the holes that lead down through the A pillars? I tried to clean mine with a little compressed air. Didn't seem to help / work. Anybody have a good idea on how to clean those out?

BTW, it's nice to have a running thread about the Spyder top and all the issues we're having!
 
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I use a combination of compressed air and a single solid strand copper wire(romex) to clear the channels. The wire is stiff enough to easily go through the channel but can still conform to the bends. Make sure you clear the exit at the bottom too.

There are quite a few thread out there about top care and tricks. The biggest improvement you will notice is the waterproofing. Once a proper coating is applied the water just simply rolls off.
 
Can any of you post a picture showing the exact location of these channel openings? I have an idea of where they are, but never done it before. Plus it'd be good reference for future members.
 
Well...

I finally decided to try sealing mine with Flex Seal. It's been a couple months and not a drop has come through. The Plastidip made it look good again, but did only a little by way of sealing it. I tried Rustoleum Never Wet but it really can't do much to seal the tiny holes between the woven fabric of our canvas tops. I removed all the old, dry, dusty inside seal and recoated the inside with the Flex Seal.

My advice? If you just REALLY want to be able to say you saved your original top for a fraction of the cost of a new top...get you some Flex Seal. If you want to keep your life simple and don't mind throwing money at a problem...take your car to a shop and have a new top installed.

Check out the video:

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Drop Top Road Trip said:
Well...

I finally decided to try sealing mine with Flex Seal. It's been a couple months and not a drop has come through. The Plastidip made it look good again, but did only a little by way of sealing it. I tried Rustoleum Never Wet but it really can't do much to seal the tiny holes between the woven fabric of our canvas tops. I removed all the old, dry, dusty inside seal and recoated the inside with the Flex Seal.

My advice? If you just REALLY want to be able to say you saved your original top for a fraction of the cost of a new top...get you some Flex Seal. If you want to keep your life simple and don't mind throwing money at a problem...take your car to a shop and have a new top installed.

Check out the video:

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Click to expand...
Thanks man I'll watch the video. Unfortunately my top has two rips in it one right above my head and one towards the back. Plus leaks at the front corners... Found a top online for $400ish I'll be saving for
 
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Did a refresh coat last month. Beading for months, lasts almost a full year and only cost $5. Nothing seeps through.
 
Billy Mays would be proud!!!
 
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