The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

Typical machine shop cost?!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

your sending your head in to get redone without even knowing the cost?

any machine shop should be able to give you a price quote for parts, labor, and machining before they even touch your stuff.

price varys depending on what your getting done. the shop would know better then anyone else here unless they run a machine shop.
 
there redoing all my valves an all idk exactly i just no to ylinders valves got bent when my timing belt popped

There is a lot that may need to be done and you don't have specifics.
Ask them exactly what they are going to do for that.

Are they going to be checking for and replacing any cracked guides?
How many valves are going to be replaced? Are they going to use real Mitsubishi OEM parts or whatever they get from their suppliers?
Are you going to check the tip height and adjust?
Is your head flat or will it need to be machined, if so how are they going to machine it.
Why sort of valve and seat cutting are they going to do, 3 angle?

That's just a few things off the top of my head. Let the shop educate you on what they think needs to be done. Until then it's hard to know if that's a good price or not.
 
Yeah 400$ sounds about right when people just plunk heads down @ the shop I used to work for and say "fix it pl0x :)!". But if you take it in ask them to do certain things they will usually give you a quote per cylinder.

Last time I had a typical valve job done it was 180$ for complete disassemble, cleaning, 3 angle grind, surfacing, and reassembly.
 
Sreve the wise man is on the right track.

Prices can very from region to region and shop to shop

Here in the Panhandle of Florida, the prices will be appox this..

Pressure test head for cracks................... $40
Valve job.................................................$125-160
this will include dissasembly, cleaning the casting, cut the valve seats, grind valves that are still good,reassemble head.
Surface head............................................$40
change guides ..........................................$3-5 each (Labor only)

parts will be appox too

New guides............. $3 each
Valve......................$10-12 each
seals....................... $20-30 a set

with out looking at your head, I will assume that 8 valves bent... prob the exhaust valves

so not having an over heating problem, you will not need the pressure test..

Valve job........................ $160
8 guides changed $5 x 8= $40
surface head....................$40
guides, parts........ $3 x 8=$24
Valves, part.........$12 x 8=$96
seals................................$25

total would be................. $385 plus tax/shipping

since you are spending $96 on stock replacement valves, I would go to Engnblder and get a set of stainless steel valves set of 16 is about $130 on ebay
also have the valve springs checked and replaced if needed.

some threads to read and understand some mache shop work.....

DSM Wiseman Big WOO wrote this and is very good
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341218-how-change-valve-guides-4g63t-head.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-aluminum-head-pressure-tested-cracks.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

and you may want to do this oil mod to help keep lifter tic away...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

when you go to have your head worked on you will have a better understanding of what the shop wants to do.
 
I am looking to have a head totally redone as well, I called a few local shops, and decided to stick with one of the dsm-smart shops that can be found online and through the supporting vendor section. After making a few calls, I found that there are some variables in my case since I am going to have bronze/copper guides put in. A few different shops gave me different answers. The newer/cheaper shops said they would clean the head (even though its already clean), install the guides, check the deck, do a valve job if necessary, and assemble using parts I supply, for around $500 give or take a few bucks, with stage 1 porting, stage 3 running an extra $200.
However, a few of the more expensive/established shops said differently, they said that
since I'm changing the guides, I was told I need to have oversized valves put in and a valve job done, since the new guides won't be true to the seats, and bigger valves are required once the seats are machined to fit. The port work is also much more expensive. All in all, the more expensive shops wanted close to $700 or so for the cleaning, assembly, and install. That included machining for new guides though, but with no port work. So I guess the moral of the story here is do some research, and decide what you are willing to pay for.
 
silicosys4... I want to say, it dosnt matter if the Bronze/copper or iron guides

no matter the guide, if replaced the same issue stands, the seat will be sunk some if OS valves are not used.
 
I paid $500 for...

Head: Tank, deck, pressure test, 3 angle job, install new seals, springs and retainers and valves. I provided all brand new parts, and they also assembled the head.

Block: Tank, check all clearances, hone and deck, disassemble and assemble the block with forged internals, ACL Tri-Race bearings, ARP mains and micropolish the crank.
Again, all parts were provided.

One thing is, my builder noticed that 2 valves were oversized, I called the vendor from which I purchased them and they gladly sent me 2 new standard valves.
Can I just those 2 valves and call it a day?
 
'97boostinGST..... what is it you want to do with the 2 valves? install them? cut them down to std size?
 
'97boostinGST..... what is it you want to do with the 2 valves? install them? cut them down to std size?

When I purchased the valves (standard size), they accidentally sent me two oversized valves. I nor the machine shop that did my labor noticed this until my buddy who is building the motor noticed one intake and one exhaust valve were oversized. I called the vendor and told them what happened, they shipped me two standard size valves which is what I need. The head got a 3 angle valve job with those two oversized valves and was wondering if I could just replace those 2 oversized valves with the correct standard size valves that I received. Will it affect anything?

Sorry OP, don't mean to threadjack.
 
sorry for the thread jack......

yes!! replace the valves!! put the STD ones in, and hope the shop did not use the os valve when they did the valve job.

If the shop used the os valve when they patterned in the seat for the valve job then you will need the os valves to fix it.

lap a valve or two on both the int and exh side, the seat should be centered on the valve, if it is running off the outer edge of the valve the seats are too big and will need the OS valves installed.

if you lap the OS valve in on a std seat the seat will be on the inside of the valve face(towards the valve stem)

you do need to check this out before the head is installed!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341636-how-lap-valve.html

@Black Widow97 LOL yes I am!! last time I checked
 
Code:
sorry for the thread jack......

yes!! replace the valves!! put the STD ones in, and hope the shop did not use the os valve when they did the valve job.

If the shop used the os valve when they patterned in the seat for the valve job then you will need the os valves to fix it.

lap a valve or two on both the int and exh side, the seat should be centered on the valve, if it is running off the outer edge of the valve the seats are too big and will need the OS valves installed.

if you lap the OS valve in on a std seat the seat will be on the inside of the valve face(towards the valve stem)

you do need to check this out before the head is installed!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ve.[/QUOTE]Great! Thanks for the info.
 
about 3 months ago i paid 325 to get the block bored .02 over, and honed, block surface decked, #3 cylinder clearanced for 2.3, line bored, new freeze plugs and new balance shaft bearings installed.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top