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Photo dump.. will give details on photos at later date.
Summary
Sold house, moved in with parents while looking for land to build on. Paper weight is in the garage here.

*** NOTE*** I fixed the timing cover. Will have to dig up the post fix photos later...
View updates to this DSM profile...
 
I HAVE ZERO use for it w my current fwd. I need an awd chassis. I will trade u. I dont care for the money
You need to find an AWD shell. Im in San Antonio and im on the hunt daily out of curiosity LOL. Keep it and get into an AWD in the future.
 
Is the one parked awd? I have a shep transmission that is collecting dust.
yes sir! I'm interested, shoot me a message




6 bolt in a 2g:

6 2.0 bolt long block
97 CAS
Beehive springs
Adjustable Cam gears
280 BC cams
Pauter X beam rods
Wiesco HD pistons
ARP Head studs
Balance shaft delete
ACT StreetLite Flywheel
880CC PTE injectors
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator
Walbro 350 fuel pump
1g crushed BOV
S90 throttle body with 1g intake port to match
Front mount intercooler
Forced Performance Manifold
3" Vibrant exhaust
Koyorad radiator--modified
ECMlink V3
Speed density
Innovate wide band O2

South Bend clutch:
SS-Series 2200 Pressure Plate
TZ-Series Kevlar diskMods-Handling Megan springs
KYB shocks
PF01 EVO wheels
Outlander big brakes
 
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My father wanted to surprise me on Christmas. Plan was to drive the GSX to my new farm ¼ mile or so to my house. He was working on it a lot. All the hardware was installed including the throttle body (had to do a little custom fab to adapt the S90 to 6bolt intake manifold) and turbo piping. Last couple of days prior to planning on driving to my house he was working on swapping the engine harness I bought from a fellow DSMer on Facebook (dude collects 1g 2g DSM all day and parts them out). Bought a 97 harness from him. When my father was trying to swap it in, he hit a huge sag—a portion of the harness is cooked beyond repair. The back half replacement harness I bought was in excellent condition except for one connector. The back half we plan to also fix. We looked into replacement connectors (kit). He ended up repairing the front harness rather than replace it. We then submitted a request-for-quote to Sheridan Engineering—they had a connector kit for sale.

My father ended up getting in contact with Brad who actually lives close to where he lives (owner of Sheridan Engineering). Brad puts DSM kits together and distributes from his home! My dad setup a meet and picked up the connector kit! Brad knows a ton about the 4g63 and has been very helpful.

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Ordered a new alternator connector pigtail. Plan was to repair the installed harness and connectors. We also got heat-proof cloth electrical tape and wire loom heat shielding.

Came into another issue.. There is a threaded tab on the 20g turbo that interfered with the intercooler piping. It’s probably for attaching exhaust manifold heat shielding. Was thinking about grinding it off maybe.

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The coupling and pipe were too close to the exhaust casting.
Decided to look around for a stock 02 housing heat shield.
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Goals to accomplish at some point:
No expanded transitions in the intake piping. The S90 throttle body is 3”. The intake manifold was ported to match.
The piping is 2.5”. The outlet of the turbo is 2”. Every transition creates air expansion and turbulence, ultimately resulting in pressure drop.
Found a brand-new lower turbo head shield from RTM racing. A bit expensive, but well worth the added protection.
Now to the exhaust manifold. Need a heat shield here. Not a fan of the one from FP as it looks clunky...
They also have a blanket. Would rather a heat sink and deflector, combined with more forced air. I don’t like that this blanket will entrap the heat. A metal shield will cut the heat transfer in half, according to the laws of thermodynamics. We then need to transfer the heat from the metal to the passing air



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It gets really hot under the bay. The distressed harness reveals that. My Dad bought lots of stuff to rebuild the harness better than stock. So, components will need to be protected better. There’s an alternator heat shield we were thinking about buying... We also need to get more outside air into the engine compartment. The air scoop on my hood may help, but depends on air pressure where something like that should go. It does not force air in there


Now back to the harness...
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Here is the wiring and loom my Dad bought
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Harness will be far better than new.
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Probably going to splice in this part of the donor harness. All the connectors on the old harness and the wires are totally cooked. The donor ones are perfect. All the wire color schemes are the same
How did this car ever run?
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Noticed several different things bolt on the 6 bolt intake that are different from the 7 bolt. There really isn't enough room between 2g fuel rail and the throttle body to mount the position sensor.

My 7 bolt head has a black top CAS and my 6 bolt has a 97 CAS, which I found odd. I guess it will just make the 6 bolt head in a 2g plug-in-play
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Harness is done! 30 new connectors, 60+ wires...
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Tried to make a stock exhaust manifold heatshield work. Got it to fit, but looks terrible. Caved and bought the blanket from extremepsi
Stock 02 housing fits well over the Megan 02 housing (rather stock, but I couldn’t source one fast enough... ) with little modification. It did interfere with lever rod. We’ll need to bend the metal out a bit to clear. If the rod were straight, there would be no prob. Straightened the rod out, but it’ll change the throw length, should be easy fix
View attachment 630777
Figured what shape the lower pipe to the intercooler needs to be. ”s” pipe from turbo to intercooler
 
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Hit another issue with the 2g fuel fail
Theres not enough room between fuel rail and injector to plug in the harness connectors. We can make it work, but we’ll have to remove fuel rail and grind off that what interferes
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This dimension is 4” on 6 bolt, on the 7 bolt intake it is 5”
That explains at least why there's not enough clearance for the throttle body sensor
View attachment 630780

View attachment 630782

Took the rail off. As you can see, I'll need new seals. The mark is where I'd have to grind off to get connector to fit.
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1g fuel rail is different. The injector port on 2g is reinforced--an improvement. So I'll change the connector. The fuel line flange is a different angle, probably making a clearance for the throttle body sensor.
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Heat shield and rod fixed. Rod now works smoothly without any interference.
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routed the repaired harness around the back of the engine and plugged in all the injector connectors. Now we were trying to figure out all the vacuum lines.. Next he’ll put back the front harness and repair the few connectors that need replacing

Got the ”S” pipe delivered and manifold blanket
Solves the spacing issue I had before
View attachment 630784
mock up
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Turbo is done with heat shield wrap on the intercooler pipe. Front harness is repaired and connected. Got new couplers from Amazon to complete the intake pipe. Also got the new injector seals so now the modified fuel rail can be installed. Then complete the connection of the rear half of the repaired harness.

Installed the battery and rebuilt part of the harness. Hooking up the starter now. Had to remove intercooler pipe, lower heatsheild and exhaust pipe in order to reach the starter. Today hopefully we will crank the engine over. Lubricating everything we can reach-- squirting oil through spark plug hole, oil filter and filling crankcase. When it spins up we expect to have some poil pressure. So, if all is right, oil will squirt out the oil presser connector on the OFH. Plan to collect the oil that squirts out and check it for debris.

While putting in a new trigger wire for the starter went ahead and tidied up the wiring and vacuum lines.

Few hours later hooked it all up and the car came alive! Dash and interior lights. We did all the above and cranked it. Nothing squirted out where we were expecting. Next thing to do is check out that port and see if it's supposed to be oil pressure. Maybe not, could be temp or something else, thus oil would not come out there.
Now we will shore up all the instrumentation and make it pretty. There are a few dashboard lights that need to be troubleshot—new blubs maybe. But most important, making it perfect mechanically.

Read up on tuners regarding “dry cranking oil pressure”. Some said the oil system should be primed before starting for the first time. Never done this before. During one of my Dads build back in the day he oiled everything—priming does nothing more than that. Engineering hat on: this is a “pusher” pump, meaning it always starts with air in the system (oil drains back into the oil pan when engine is stopped). At least one post said you’ll never get oil pressure until you start the engine. So we’ll finish the build soon hopefully. Already tightened all the fittings and finished connecting the vacuum line. So.. Start the car later hopefully.


Instead of starting, we removed the instrument cluster to trace wires and to check led’s. Figured out the oil pressure idiot light and the two pressure sensors. Also traced the wires to the “A” pillar gage cluster (it was VERY poorly installed). Fixing all so we’ll have reliable oil pressure indication

View attachment 630829
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22 light blubs total on the cluster

Dug up all the pressure sensors
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The instrument cluster had something loose and rattling around inside. So, he took apart and four little plastic gears and a pin rod fell out. The lower trip odometer must be driven by these gears. You can zero it out, but it’ll stay there at zero. Might be able to repair it. The pin rod is held onto its pastic support, which is broken off. We ordered 3 sets of replacement lights which will convert all to LED’s. Going to try and fix the odometer
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Watched a video where this guy removed all the gage dial faces to clean the backs. He warned that removing the faces may affect dial accuracy. So, decided not to repair because the face would have to be removed.

Limited ports on the OFH, so we put this juryrig together
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This particular 6 bolt has the forward facing oil filter type, which has only on location for an oil pressure sensor. The side facing filter type for 6 bolt has 2 stock pressure tap locations for sensors. in addition, it has other ports which may be adaptable for a 3rd pressure sensor. Plan is to buy one.
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Until we get one, we’ll use the ”T” juryrig and the ”A” pillar pressure gage and drop the cluster gage.

Decided to not use the ”A” pillar gages for now. The instrument cluster oil pressure is all done for that. We’re now putting back all the stuff we took off to rewire the starter (exhaust pipe, turbo piping and intake piping) Then we’ll install the radiator and fan. Lastly top off the fluids. Need to do a little troubleshooting on the hydraulic clutch.
Dash cluster LED’s arrived. We were in the garage bleeding the clutch fluid when they delivered. So far, the clutch seems ok.
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Found the OFH we were looking for, should arrive in the mail soon!

Here is the forward facing OFH installed
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The juryrig

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Found a grommet at O’Reilly’s that fixed the reservoir sensor.

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Engine completed!
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Cleaned up a few more things (cleaned as we went). Mounted the manual boost with new tubing
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Fluids are all topped off except radiator. The thermostat housing flange leaks. Took it apart. It has powder coating all over the flange surfaces. We’ll have to remove it in order to plane both surfaces. That was the last thing on the list before starting. Could go ahead and try a start, but it would not be wise without coolant.

Decided to search for a new 6 bolt thermostat housing
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Source of leak. Will put it back together with RTV for now.
First start attempt--no fuel pressure. Starter motor does not disengage smoothly
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Need to verify if fuel pump is working first

Verified the fuel pump is not running. Jumped the pump--it runs great. It’s a power problem. Checking power-to relay next. There was a red wire that we guess went to a old audio system in the car. Well found out that was the power to the fuel pump relay!

Still no start. Getting power to pump during the start cycle, but its intermittent. So the relay may be bad. Going to bypass the relay during a start.


OFH arrived!
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Thermostat housing also arrived!
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Messed around in the cabin some more.. wow this place is packed!
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Figured out the ECU installed in the car is from a 1995. E2T61677 = 95 ECU. 90% sure those are the number on the ECU I could see. That must be the issue. ECU not getting correct signal from CAS.. therefore no ignition.

Bought a new starter thinking it would help with the engagement problem. Still the same issue. Started to extensively read about this problem, mostly relating to 6-bolt swap. When thje problem is that the start motor just spins without engagement, it’s usually due to wrong flywheel in installed-10.5” vs 11. Theres also talk about the wrong starter plate. There is no credidble conclusions relating to rough starter engagement. We may have the wrong flywheel or starter plate. REALLY don’t want to pull the transmission! We’re going to fabricate different thickness of shims and try that. Could not find anything online using this approach..
The thing we’re not sure about is the 1g plate thinner than the 2g. I think they’re the same or very close. So the only remainging issue may be the wrong flywheel. But makes no sense to me. If it were the wrong flywheel (smaller) the starter would not engage--just spin. There’s really not enough room to install a shim plate. But I guess i’ll give it a shot. Not motivated to R&R that starter again.
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Found picture of 1g plate on 2g transmission. We’ll pull the starter off again and try to take a pic.
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This pic is indicticative of a 6-bolt starter plate on a 2g transmission.Starter does not fit perfectly.. If the plate were interfering with the correct positioning of the starter to the flywheel, we’d have to pull the transmission and replace it.
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Might know whats going on. It is not possible for the starter gear to catch on the bottom of that starter plate (see next pic). But it id highly likely that the starter is cocked and not square relative to the bell housing and flywheel because it catches on the bottom, but NOT the top during installation. The tighter I torque the bolts, the more it cocks. The gear is forced into meshing with the flywheel by the solenoid. But the return relies on the flywheel momentum to unmesh the spring to pull in back. The spring rate, by design, is less than solenoid force.
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Narrowed opening, not wide enough. This is why the 2g starter plate should be used on a 2g mt. No one has said why a 1g plate will not work (from what i’ve found so far).

Going to remove the intake manifold. May as well replace with one my buddy powerder coated for me then port it to match the S90.
Have to pull off the fuel fail :( it can’t be put back without all new seals
Also have to remove exhaust pipe--can’t get to the bottom side row of intake manifold bolts 🙁
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Ordered new injector seals and intake manifold gasket
We’re not using the idle fuel control or vac solenoid
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This will free up some room under the manifold
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Confirms the starter was cocked
 
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