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turned up mbc but still holds 13

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jdm9221

Proven Member
125
5
Apr 10, 2017
Osceola, Indiana
car is a 97 eclipse gsx got an safc2 yesterday and tuned it to compensate for 19lbs went to hook up the hallman boost controller, got it hooked up and turned it and got nothing. still spikes at 13,i tried hooking it up both ways and no difference. a friend of mine thinks my stock bov wont hold 19 and gave me a new one but it vents to atmosphere and ive heard bad things about doing that. any suggestions help, need the car tommorow
 
When you say spikes at 13lbs does it hold the boost steady or drop lower than that if you keep in boost? If so make sure your airfilter is not collapsing.
 
i spliced the line between my wastegate and intake manifold.

Wastegate/boost controller should get it's boost source before the throttle body.

Your BOV should also have it's own line from the IM for proper performance. If anything tap the boost gauge to the fpr's line. From the sound of it you have all three tied together?
 
Part it out. haha You doing it wrong. Bov line should be by itself, gauge should be off the fpr line, mbc should be off the manifold or intercooler pipe. Dont listen to your friend.
 
Last edited:
I copied an safc tune off a friend. He has everything exactly the same as mine except he's on 19lbs. I was just gonna turn mine up and use his tune. I put my boost gauge on my fpr line. Bov is on its own and the boost controller is in between the wastegate and intake manifold but only gets to 14lbs. No boost leaks. I've got 550s walbro 255 16g turbo fmic hallman boost controller and a few other bolt ons
 
Just pull the vacuum line off the wastegate actuator completely...You'll get the "19lbs" you're so desperately seeking.
 
Ouch. GstWithPsi is not your average guy. I see his post here and on galant forums, he has a lot of experience with these cars. Sometimes on forums sarcasm comes out wrong way I am sure no one wanted to insult you in anyway.

Anyways back on track. If your vacuum hoses are all verified then next step I would do is to make sure your wastegate is working properly. You can remove vacuum source or for test perpouse only tighten the flapper with mechanical wire so it won't blow off. Take it for a spin and watch the gauge. Don't overboost and blow it up. If now you are boosting then actuator is bad. If you still not building boost then you need to dig into turbo itself. Drop it inspect it. Also checking for boost leaks is a big one. Many people don't do it correctly. And then they post here about asking for help and in the end it was massive leak.
 
f*** off Looking for advice not smart ass comments

My apologies.

The quicker you blow it up, the quicker you'll realize literally everything you're trying to do is wrong.

Perhaps you should start your time here by creating a profile so we dont have to guess what's done to your DSM: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/welcome-to-dsmtuners-now-go-create-a-dsm-profile.499707/

I'd also recommend you refrain from taking the that sort of tone in your posts. It won't serve you well here.
 
Really dumb question here but how far is the MBC turned/screwed in? I know when I first put my controller on I backed it completely out and ran around 9lbs. Fast forward, decided to run a tad bit more. I start by turning the knob few times in, multiple times and the boost stayed at 9lbs. I had to have that thing almost completely screwed in to raise my boost levels from 9 to 13-14lbs. Just a thought.
 
If it's an eBay 16g, drop the turbo and look inside to see if the waste gate flap is even there. I had that problem twice and I kept kicking myself trying to figure out my boost problems. It would also be helpful if you created a profile for your GSX and include photos of the engine bay and any modifications you know are done to it.
 
It's the blow-off valve. Even if you welded the wastegate port closed you'd hit 13psi because the shitty plastic 2g bov will open and recirc back to the turbo.

You can replace it with a 1g, Evo, or aftermarket unit depending on your budget.
 
Just for reference. I check for boost leaks like this:

1)Remove intake tube and install boost leak tester. If you have MBC then turn it to max boost setting so it won't leak. I have STM Tester with modified hose and regulator.
2)Determan how much boost you want to run and test it slightly higher. So if if you want 19psi then test it at 25 or close to that.
3)Introduce the air into the system slowly and go inside the car and see what your boost gauge is reading. Then adjust the regulator until your boost gauge reads desire pressure. When you have done that go to town grab some beer......wrong party.....go get some soppy water and start spraying.
3)Spray around and listen for leaks. It helps to be in quit area so you can hear the leaks.

*By the way my shops compressor puts out 250 psi it's easy to blow pipes off if not carefull.
**Popular leaks are TB seals, Injectors insulators, Bov, Compressor orings, intercooler, jpipe gasket.
***My 1g bov was not holding more then 15 psi so I crushed it on the wise while pulling vacuum on it and watching when the shaft cracks open. Calibrated it with hammer. Now it holds 25psi but the drivability defiantly takes a toll. Sometimes if you let off the throttle it jerks but if you learn how to avoid it then it's not a big problem.
****I install extra oring on top of the oem new injector seals in order for it to stop leaking. Took few tries to make it stop leaking.
 
I copied an safc tune off a friend. He has everything exactly the same as mine except he's on 19lbs. I was just gonna turn mine up and use his tune. I put my boost gauge on my fpr line. Bov is on its own and the boost controller is in between the wastegate and intake manifold but only gets to 14lbs. No boost leaks. I've got 550s walbro 255 16g turbo fmic hallman boost controller and a few other bolt ons
And how did you check for leaks?
 
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