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Posted by sillylepricon37, Sep 15, 2009
Newbie Forum - Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum.
tell me what you think. but how much money should i get back from the guy who sold me the turbo.??
have you done a boost leak test?
Is your wastegate fully closed?
also i am running 91 octane. (pump gas)
i talked to my buddy, he has a 60-1 turbonetics ball bearing turbo. he said it takes him a really long time to make his turbo glow red, and thats running 38lbs. he said he had to beat the sh** out of his turbo for a long time to get his to glow like mine is right now. we litterally were in the car for 5 min. we hit 4.5k rpms max. there has got to be something wrong with the turbo. he lit his cigarette of the manifold and said in 4 years he has only done this once before .
A. There is only one way to do it right. Compressor cover/j-pipe/nipple directly after turbo---boost controller---wastegate. The "---" represents vacuum line.
B. There is mechanical timing and ecu timing. Mechanical timing needs to be set correctly so you don't damage the car or have it run poorly. Did he use a timing light to set the base timing? The ecu timing (don't know the exact name unless it's base timing) is when the car decides to ignite fuel mixture in the cylinder. Advanced timing has fuel ignited earlier which allows more fuel to combust and stay in the cylinder longer causing more power to be produced. Retarded timing is just the opposite. Fuel ignites later and if real bad, the fuel will still be burning after the exhaust valves are open and going into the turbine housing causing the red hot cigarette lighter.
C. Knock is fuel detonating which is engine damaging. Caused when people attempt to run too much boost on an octane lower than what is needed. Hot intake charges can help cause knock too. Once knock happens, see B.
D. Your buddys car is also not having problems unlike yours. Ball bearing turbos have less resistance in them as well so they won't heat up as much from usage, but will still be hot from the exhaust gas. Like I said in prior posting can be up in the 1500* range. Your exhaust may be in the 1700* range if you are lean or knocking.
E. Was the turbo new, used or rebuilt. How many miles? Just putting that in there before I go and say that it's not the turbo. If there was a problem with the turbo to the point of it going red hot, it probably would have killed itself.
Myself and a few others have stated already that it sounds like you are retarding timing severly. We don't know why, which is why you need to get it logged. Do you have a wideband or EGT gauge? MAKE SURE you boost leak test and fix ALL leaks. Keep testing until there are NONE left.
Oh, and start using correct grammar please...
You say its not boosting? How do you know that? Stock boost gauge at zero? Is there a rev limit somewhere there usually isn't? Could you only get it up to a certain speed? If so, might be a TPS problem or your ECU is bugging out. Grammar and more Details sir.
Checked the cat, its good.
Mechanical Timing is dead on.
Replaced the Knock Sensor.
Turbo seems to be fine. Spins freely
Wastegate is opening to early
Manifold Is still glowing.
I got the Boost Controller and Wastegate hooked up correctly.
The BOV is releasing air.
Spark Plugs in the correct Firing order.
Checked the injectors.
I swear this car is cursed and only god knows whats wrong with it.
CAS is Cam Angle Sensor correct? If this messes with the ignition timing, the ignition timing is not adjustable on a 99
Hey guys, quick question. I just recently had a newer transmission put in my car with a stage 2 clutchmasters new clutch, had the rear main done also,starter,motor mounts. But anyways when I got the car back I waited a good break in period of 600 miles or so before I boosted.. Then just the other day I went to give it a boost. And there's nothing. I don't know whats going on.. maybe stuck open wastegate? The BOV still is letting out pressure so i know theres air flow in there, and you can hear the turbo spooling.. I'm changing out all the intercooler piping and current greddy fmic thats on there now.. hoping that will help. But any other ideas?
Check for boost leaks before changing anything.
It sounds like something is clogged up in the exhaust.
Sounded like it was spooling, built no boost.
So i checked it and it was for sure snapped in half.
Hey LiquidX, a little bit offtopic but I thought it was better to take go from the cold side of the intercooler. Because I thought that gave a more accurate value of what the boost is that is going into the intake manifold, and closer to what would be on the boost gauge.
Otherwise. What kind of turbo is it? Has it worked previously? I have been able to get my car to boost a little bit even when my internal wastegate flapper was not even hooked up to the rod off the actuator. So if you are showing no boost, then you need to check the wastegate, and boost leaks. This should be done before even trying to drive the car for the first time after any major (even minor) work.