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Turbo Rebuild, shaft play Q

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MaxGdsm

15+ Year Contributor
128
1
Apr 12, 2007
bellingham, Washington
I have a slight bit of shaft play, up and down, not side to side, in my big 16g.
Will a full rebuild kit like the one below eliminate this and how much play is okay?
Also is a rebuild kit good enough or will i have to have it balanced after a rebuild. Im trying to contemplate if it is necessary to spend the money to rebuild and what all is involved in properly rebuilding it.

Mitsubishi Kits


Mitsubishi TD05/TD05H/TD06 Standard Rebuild Kit

This is a STANDARD rebuild kit for Mitsubishi TD05/TD05H/TD06 turbochargers. If you want a COMPLETE kit, it is listed below this one. These turbos are found on 1g DSM Eclipse/Talon/Lasers (standard transmissions), Intercooled Mitsubishi Starions & Dodge/Chrysler Conquest, Volvos, and more. We also have the hard-to-find, genuine Mitsubishi heat shield available (the part on the diagram that is in front of part #2). This part is often damaged on these turbos. The price for the heat shield is $14. You can purchase one below. Detailed rebuilding instructions are available after purchase of kit. This kit will work for 12A, 14B, big and small 16G, 18G, 20G, 17C, and 19C turbos.


TD05/TD05H/TD06 Rebulid Kit

#1 Journal Bearings
#2 Retaining Rings for Journal Bearings
#3 Piston Ring for Turbine End
#5 O-Ring for Bearing Housing to Comp Housing
#6 Thrust Ring
#7 Thrust Bearing
#8 O-Ring for Seal Plate
#11 Piston Ring for Compressor End
#14 Locknut for Turbine Shaft, STANDARD THREAD


TD05/TD05H/TD06 Rebuild Kit
Price: $89.00
Qty:

Mitsubishi TD05/TD05H/TD06 Complete Superback and EVO Rebuild Kit

This is a complete rebuild kit for Mitsubishi TD05/TD05H/TD06 turbochargers. This kit will ONLY work for superback compressor wheel models such as big and small 16G, 18G, 20G, and EVO turbos. If you are converting an older style flatback compressor wheel turbo to the newer style superback (ex: 14B to 16G), you will need this kit to complete the conversion (as well as the 16G compressor wheel).


TD05Evo Kit

#1 Journal Bearings
#2 Retaining rings for journal bearings
#3 Piston ring, turbine end
#5 O-ring for compressor housing
#6 Thrust Ring
#7 Thrust Bearing
#8 O-ring for seal plate
#9 Thrust Collar
#11 Piston ring, compressor end
#12 Seal Plate
#13 Retaining ring for seal plate
#14 Left-hand thread locknut for compressor wheel
n/a Oil drain gasket

TD05/TD05H/TD06 SB Rebuild Kit
Price: $134.00
Qty:
 
A slight amount of side to side play is normal with MHI turbos, as long as there is no in and out play and it doesn't smoke, you probably don't need to rebuild it.

My brand new 16G had so much side play that the compressor wheel would touch the housing. It had me really worried, but after installing it and getting some oil thru it, it tighten up.

I wouldn't worry about a rebuild unless you are rubbing the housing.



Also if you have not found Justins rebuild FAQs yet, check them out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...d06-turbo-rebuild-part-1-a.html#post151573469
 
There will always be a slight amount of up/down (or side to side) play on a journal bearing turbo because of the slight oil tolerance required between the shaft and the journal bearing, and the journal bearing and the housing. However, it's possible for the shaft to become grooved or the journals in the housing to become enlarged. This would require the shaft to be machined or the journals to be machined to the next size, and undersized / oversized bearings would be required.

In/out play is the type of play you DON'T want to have in excess, as this displays a worn thrust plate. If the shaft is allowed to move in and out in excess, the wheels will begin to run the housings quickly because the tolerance between the wheels and the housings is as little as .010". Excessive up/down play will begin to damage the compressor inducer tips first, where excessive in/out play will quickly mow down the apex of the wheel, under the cover where it cannot be seen.

I'd say 95% of the time a standard rebuild kit should bring your worn turbo back into tolerance. The journal bearings themselves are designed to be soft so they're the part that sustains the most wear or damage.

Check out this thread for more information: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-what-worry-about-when-buying-used-turbo.html

I should've created that thread in the tech section of the site so it would be more searchable, although I wanted it in the forums so guys could reply with their experiences or add information if necessary.
 
Forcedperformance sells them..
..they also sell new TD05H turbines for $237.50, which is about $60-$70 more than any other supplier.

Any turbo shop can get you one. G-Pop, Turbochargers.com, Deadbolt....all will be FAR less than FP.
 
you say $237 for the turbine itself, you may all laugh at this but there are 16g turbo's on ebay for around $200. Either they are a steal or complete junk im not sure which ive had a 420a for the last 6 years and just recently bought a first gen 4g63 and am kinda new to the whole turbo game. Anyway im guessing they are junk turbo's right?
 
ceddy and jusmx thanks for the info, those link are helpful.
I talked to some friends who are all turbo gurus and they informed me that the oil takes up the slop im seeing and that i dont need a rebuild. as for balancing any advice? i was told no as long as i mark it before i take it apart. I gues holset turbos comrpessor and exhaust wheel are each seperately balanced so balancing isnt necessary, but i dont know about mitsu turbos.
 
I talked to some friends who are all turbo gurus and they informed me that the oil takes up the slop im seeing and that i dont need a rebuild.

That depends. SOME up/down play is acceptable; here's an example of an UNacceptable amount of shaft play:

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i239.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid239.photobucket.com/albums/ff165/jusmx141/DSMTuners%20Stuff/Blown35RShaftPlay.flv">

as for balancing any advice? i was told no as long as i mark it before i take it apart. I gues holset turbos comrpessor and exhaust wheel are each seperately balanced so balancing isnt necessary, but i dont know about mitsu turbos.
Most MHI turbos are component-balanced only, similar to the newer Holsets. On these turbos, the compressor wheel and turbine shaft are balanced seperately which speeds assembly as they're being built. This type of balancing provides acceptable balance throughout the turbo's operation, and allows you to swap wheels if you are to damage one without rebalancing the entire assembly. Most 14B's, and many 16G's/20G's are component-balanced.

Here is some good information regarding turbo balance.
 
thanks again jusmx141, very helpful. My play is no where near that, you cant really even see the play when you look at it and try to move it, so im pretty convinced its just the slop due to no oil since the turbo is out and sitting on my work bench.

Now I just need to see if im going to have to port the wastgate area to avoid creep, the previous owner said it didnt creep but his setup was diff than mine and Ide rather just be safe than sorry.

Thanks again for the great advice and help guys. Its nice to finally be able to post to the non Newb section as advice is soo much better and replies are always quicker:thumb:
 
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