Ryannterror
Proven Member
- 39
- 10
- Oct 9, 2014
-
Bucks County,
Pennsylvania
Very Nice! What wall thickness are you making these with?
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Now this man can weld! Even using a quality MIG, I can't do that! (thinking he's using a TIG welder which is $$$ but excellent)
Thanks guys!Beautiful
It depends on the application. But either .065" or .095".Very Nice! What wall thickness are you making these with?
Possibly. It would usually require me purchasing that rearend and having it machined (narrowed) to fit in my jig. Then I'd have to have someone draw up the new bracketry in CAD and have a shop produce a bulk order of it. It's a lot of work and expense, and I probably wouldn't be interested in dedicating that much effort for a one-off build. But for a popular rearend that would be commonly used and ordered again and again, it would be worth putting in the time.Paul, are you able/willing to fabricate these with other than Mitsubishi rear diffs?
Thanks. The drag version saves ~37.5 lbs +8.5 lbs for the sway bar, so a total of 46 lbs. The road race version sheds 29 lbs while maintaining the sway bar.Nice work! From stock set up to your set up, what's the weight difference and what's the weight difference between your chromoly and mild steel set up? I know stock is heavy!
Overall, they are the same design, but the road race version uses thicker wall tubing for added strength (and weight), brackets to mount the sway bar, and has spherical provisions to attach a sway bar to the LCA's. So the LCA's weigh more too.Paul what's the difference between drag version and road race version? Is one just using thicker wall tubing or is there additional bracing added?