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Tubular rear subframe - Input needed

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Driving the car on the street now. Its sad to say that I forget this beautiful piece is sitting back there. I put it on the lift and its holding up just fine. The ride quality is awesome. Although I do have hoosiers on the car.
 
Hey Paul! This is in regards to the 3kgt rear diff question I had. I was lookin over some of fastnelson's pics and thought maybe he would be a good source to get the dimensions for fitting the rear end since he fabricated a front and rear subframe for his car. Check out the pics. If anything, maybe he's got an old case laying around he could donate for the cause?

161 - street car DSMtuners Gallery
 
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The bottom center bar. Do you make this at its shortest length, shorter than the stock one, or the same length. Was interested in being able to reduce some camber this way if the axles had enough play. By pulling in the bottom a little. With how low my car is, and how wide my wheels/tires are and with addition to my current rear fender rolling, I'm still touching I believe. I think I could fit a piece of paper in between my fender and tire. So nothing can be done up top. I was hoping that something could be adjusted on the bottom some, if any to help relieve this.
 
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I was going to ask if Paul would sell the lower control arms seperately, as I would like to do the same thing.

And the inboard pick-up looks to be adjustable from the looks of the jam nut. But I'll let Paul answer that.
 
I made all adjustments to camber and toe using those arms. I actually took off some of the washers I had up top on the wishbone to bring the rim inboard a little bit.
 
Brian, I meant in and out (length) as opposed to the 2 different pick-up mounting points. Bringing the bottom of the tire inwards, instead of pushing the top out, to adjust camber.

I'd buy a set of control arms just to be able to do that.

Edit: John, that's exactly what I'd like to do.
 
So how much "Safety" room is there when too much is too much for the axles? I know there is a lot of play stock, the axles can move side to side a good deal but what would honestly be too much. Even tho my other thread blew up about camber just because I lowered the car too much for the photos I posted, I have been thinking about a way to adjust as much camber as possible by pulling inward the bottom of the wheels, instead of pushing out the top as a normal camber kit would do. But I cannot because I have no room to do so with my tires and wheel offset and size, even tho some people think I do. IF I could pull in.... IDK a quarter inch on the lower control arm and have the toe adjusted to compensate for the toe..... I could almost eliminate all of my rear camber. Which is my main camber issue when the car is leveled. 2g front doesn't camber as hard as the rear does.
 
So, I finally squred away the sway bar connection and adjustment. It's a stepped and threaded piece that slides into the heim. I then welded on a hex portion so that you can easily adjust the end links longer or shorter with a wrench or ratchet.

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Finished arms:

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I've made my mind up. Anxious to see how further testing goes and pricing... Which will obviously not be cheap. I bet over half that have said they want it, don't buy.

Keep up the good work.
 
I've made my mind up. Anxious to see how further testing goes and pricing... Which will obviously not be cheap. I bet over half that have said they want it, don't buy.

Keep up the good work.

Your probably right on the people that are interested as it would have to be half price of the Magnus unit to keep most of the Dsm car community even considering. However there will be the few that will be interested because we know what we are investing in. Only time will tell how these hold up and the end cost. Keep up the great work and always keep us informed.
 
Your probably right on the people that are interested as it would have to be half price of the Magnus unit to keep most of the Dsm car community even considering. However there will be the few that will be interested because we know what we are investing in. Only time will tell how these hold up and the end cost. Keep up the great work and always keep us informed.

Always. I'm very willing to set aside the money for this since it's clearly well built and by a knowledgeable person. Plus, anything that drops weight in a 2g, I'm all for it. Lol.

Awaiting more info on how testing is going nd when releasing is planned. Would even pick up at Shootout if possible ;)
 
This is a work of art. Excited to know the price since the Magnus subframe costs a staggering $2,500. Also how long do you expect a 1G subframe to take, having done the 2G already? Do you plan to follow the same design?
 
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