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2G Tubular adjustable suspension parts for the entire chassis. Tubular subframes

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I agree on the steel
Wow, that looks great. Sucks bumpsteer kits are not allowed in SM.
Wow that really does suck! why dont they? its pretty much alot safer to use a bumpsteer kit due to possibly loss of control from toe out angkes it produces which is silly why they not restrict you in how low you go then,
 
Steel specifically EN16T vs 7075 T6 Aluminum is a totally different material i agree. while i possibly dont need to use 16T its pretty good in strength and shock loading and i doubt the steering puts more force then the 7075 can handle and it certainly wont bend! but im going to keep them EN16T to make sure they dont wear down and last.
 
My guess... The SCCA feels that fixing bumpsteer is not something a "street" modified car normally does. In the next class up, XP, you can more or less do whatever you'd like to the chassis. Havent ever seen a dsm in XP though.
So whats their rules on the suspension then as they must not deem any suspension mods street worthy then or am i just over thinking it haha,
 
Wow, that looks great. Sucks bumpsteer kits are not allowed in SM.
I think it's allowed, what Bobby is doing is in effect upgrading the tie rod end.
SM Rules 16.F.1
Steering modifications are permitted as follows:
1. Steering components, including the steering rack and/or box, tie rods,
idler arms, power assist devices, and related components may be replaced,
added, moved, or removed. The steering column within the pas-
senger compartment is specifically excluded from this allowance.

Funny that the rule includes "removed", so I can totally remove the rack for weight savings.
Of course that turns it into a drag car, doh!
 
Quick question: when you finalize the design... Do you have plans on building/selling them for the DSM community?
 
I think it's allowed, what Bobby is doing is in effect upgrading the tie rod end.
SM Rules 16.F.1
Steering modifications are permitted as follows:
1. Steering components, including the steering rack and/or box, tie rods,
idler arms, power assist devices, and related components may be replaced,
added, moved, or removed. The steering column within the pas-
senger compartment is specifically excluded from this allowance.

Funny that the rule includes "removed", so I can totally remove the rack for weight savings.
Of course that turns it into a drag car, doh!
Removing haha thats funny that they allow you to do that! like thats safe for any event, who writes these rules hahaha
 
I think it's allowed, what Bobby is doing is in effect upgrading the tie rod end.
SM Rules 16.F.1
Steering modifications are permitted as follows:
1. Steering components, including the steering rack and/or box, tie rods,
idler arms, power assist devices, and related components may be replaced,
added, moved, or removed. The steering column within the pas-
senger compartment is specifically excluded from this allowance.

Funny that the rule includes "removed", so I can totally remove the rack for weight savings.
Of course that turns it into a drag car, doh!


Well that's good to hear. Sign me up for a set!

Maybe it was the roll center correction that's not allowed in SP? Understanding the SCCA classing is definitely a learning curve.
 
I will sort becoming a freelancer soon to then discuss more as we are not allowed to talk about anything related to sales due to the rules which i am 100% following and agree to, so until then lets keep it to everything but them type of question please.

Thank you a for liking what im building for my car, its great to make unique items in much need as i cannot stand bump steer issues LOL, drives me crazy each time i drive the car!

And everything else that ive built and in the middle off its amazing the feedback you all give on it, i like making stuff and its nice you all take interest in my projects aswel
 
So for the actual bump steer setup you run on the street are you planning on keeping that socket head bolt in single shear like that? You are losing quite a bit of strength over the factory ball joint doing it that way.
 
So for the actual bump steer setup you run on the street are you planning on keeping that socket head bolt in single shear like that? You are losing quite a bit of strength over the factory ball joint doing it that way.
It has a special insert ive made up that slips inside the taper and sits tightly against the wall of the knuckle and bolt so there is no shear loading on this bolt inside! its the only way to do it with mass strength, the pics i posted up were mearly to show the design of the housing and what it would look like and were in no way going to be the actual finished items, just a reference to how it will sit/look and angle to.

Also in relation to the socket cap bolt, its an m12 12.9 grade bolt and thats plenty more strength then its ever going to see. heck even an m8 can pass for a bolt on this location but m10-m12 is better and i choose the m12. this is plenty safe enough for the job its going to do and the loads it will see on the streets and race track, once its all clamped up will all the special spacings ive designed and location inserts its going to be a pretty firm piece of kit! the rod ends are also chromoly, kevlar lined which is far better and stronger then the teflon lined ones and ive been using these rod ends for years without 1 failure yet!

Plus if you check out other brands for evos and so forth they also use bolts without an issue just fine so no need to worry LOL, ive done my homework as they say.
 
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So for the actual bump steer setup you run on the street are you planning on keeping that socket head bolt in single shear like that? You are losing quite a bit of strength over the factory ball joint doing it that way.
Ive just re read your reply and i think i over looked what you ment in the design, i now see your referring to the where the rod end is sitting in relation to the spacers, this is infact a place it can be less strength sure but its not going to be to the levels the bolt can withstand and alot of the cars I build at work and Ferraris can bolts like these in a similer form but on the suspension which has alot higher stress then the tie rod ends do, if it was a longer bolt and i was alot further away from the steering arm i may consider something else but its not far from the core support of the steering arm so it retains alot of its strength, but i get your concern but its honestly not an issue
 
Hey guys, and girls (if any viewing this)

Here are some pics and details on my parts im making for my car,

The first pic is of the revised inner mounting brackets on the rear upper arms, i did this because i found after mocking up on the passengers side that the drivers side is slightly different in the wheel tub area and as i bolted it down it closed the gap i had left in the bracket so to counter act that or rather avoid that ive taken the top of the bracket down around 5mm on the rear to clear the section responsible for this! (Dont worry about the picture and bracket as its only to show me the new revised version in person. everything else is still the same.

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The 2nd lot of pics are of my finished bump steer adaptors and bits for mock up for the knuckle.

Since i started this ive now changed from EN16T grade steel to EN8 grade steel, reason is because EN8 is plenty strong enough and machines just aswell.

The main body is about 3mm longer out back to give more thread since i had to take a few mm inside for the rod end to keep its strength. (Dont worry it does not clash when tested) it has 19mm flats for a wrench and i will loctite the rod end in as its still only adjustable from the inner rod end side which is still like oem.

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The small piece in the pic is what ive sampled to go into the taper section of the knuckle this allows me to get a nice snug fit and stop any movement as this is the only way to fill the space left from the taper, this was the first sample and i need to modify it to be slightly bigger as it has a minute wiggle and i mean minute!!! plans are to go slightly over and have is compress once it clamped down.

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This last pic is of the outer rod end to mount to the knuckle, this has to be chopped down around 10-13mm as if i left it full length it would actually hit the inner tie rod ends, it still has 19-20mm of shaft and is more then enough for its job in hand. on the car i checked, it has plenty of room still inside the m14 side even when placed at ride height and bolted up so still room for a good amount of adjustment.

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The bolts are going to be slightly longer to give me for solid shaft and i will trim down the excess thread that i dont need once its all clamped down with a few spare to make sure its not going to back off of them.

the spacers between the rod end I have not had a chance to get around to yet but im doing 2 different heights so it means if i adjust the heights for any reason i can just swap them around and it adjusts it by 2mm which is enough over the distance, any more and washers can be used but I highly doubt it will ever be that far out since im at about 1.25" lower on the front.


This is all i have to share at the moment to share, I do have more but its not quite ready for any pics or postings as im still working on them and small details.

Again thanks for looking and hope you all enjoy the development and progress with my car
 
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So its been a while and I thought I would make a proper thread on this.

My plan has been to make adjustable upper wishbones for the front and rear for some time now, my later plan is to also make all the arms including the front lower compression arm!!! Thats a big task but for now the uppers, I have had plans and drawings for about a year but didnt like the design i thought out so they was scrapped, NOW i had now decided on a design i think is better and the best option in terms of ease of adjusting and strength. So much so that I have now comitted and have all the parts i need to actually mock up a jig soon and build these.

Starting with the fronts then i will sort the rears out as the rear is a bit easier as i dont have to add another spherical for the knuckle/top joint so is a bit easier to design.

I wish i knew how to put all this onto a system to show in 3D modeling but im not very good with that stuff so drawings might have to make do.

The tube i am going to be using is CDS (no seams) 25mm x 2mm wall! I had considered 1.5mm wall but just thought it might be on the risky side of things so 2mm will be stong enough.

All the rod ends and sphericals are teflon injected race series bearings from a motorsport company here in the UK! No crap cheap bearings here. I opted for a spherical outer bearing as I feel for now this to be the better option but I have considered the coleman racings balljoint and that is still a possibility but not just yet. Yes it may look cleaner but and I might make a set up and check them out after ive used these for a while but for now I will stick with my design and see how it pans out.

All bolt hardware is going to be 12.9 grade zinc socket cap bolts for high strength.

All locking hardware, jam nuts and lower metal locking nuts (no nylocs) are all stainless steel for long life, the metal locking nut for the lower is self locking and can be reused several times from what I have read online so worth the extra cost.

If you all have any questions please ask or any feedback and thoughts i will gladly try and explain as best as I can. I plan to have the jig made and my sets made up by the end of july or sooner.

Pictures are just of the parts i got in today. I will add my drawings and pictures sometime soon
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yeaah that looks like a good project, do you have access to an alignment machine to check how close your work is to proper alignment angles?
 
yeaah that looks like a good project, do you have access to an alignment machine to check how close your work is to proper alignment angles?
I do and i dont! im in the middle of talking to hubstands about a kit and using the string kit to get pretty good measurements but i do have access to hunter systems and such,

All my arms will be worked out to keep close to or exact to the arm offsets espically for the fronts as thats important for not fouling, ive done slight tweeks on the fronts but for good reasons which will become clear once i get to the stage of posting about them,

my rears ive built have worked amazingly well so far and the adjustment ive incorperated has helped alot,

Im still working on the fronts but also working on the rear lowers and rear lateral arms now aswell with multi inner mountings aswell, as the more adjustment the better! At least for racing anyway.
 
Just to let everyone know whos watching or in this thread that I have now listed the rear uppers for sale in the freelancer section, you can also comment there now aswell since its been altered to allow questions etc in the sale post.

Thanks
 
Got some jigging done today and i started with the galant version arms, to keep the length of the oem droplink which is 60mm C/C i had to drop the side bracket a bit and where it sits now im just shy of the oem location so unscrew it abit and thats bang on 60 C/C! This is the only way i could currently work out to keep it all 100℅ adjustable in both arms and droplink and is just a mock up but a few tabs will be welded to it for support on the droplink bracketry.

The oem one is next up but i have to build a new jig for that but i do have parts already machined ready to put on the jig. The oem arms are a pain as i cannot find any other way to do the arm and keep the droplinks 60 C/C at all! Its ok though as i have had to mimic another set i seen ages ago made by paul, i wish i didnt have to do it this way but since we have super short droplinks its ultra hard to do it differently! I really wish i could make another way work and it be my own way but sometimes it dont work out like that!!!

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Boy do I wish you were doing this on a first gen.
Sorry, if i had a 1G i wouod also do similer parts for it aswell but since im 2G and I want to race its what im concentrating on.
 
So here it is, the oem rear lower arms! I really wish i could design it differently for obvious reasons to some, i just cannot find a good way to make 2 adjustable pivots for the droplink AND keep its distance!

Also on my list was to make arms to use the evo lower shock mounts but the shock itself would be offset too much to do this which sucks as being conneced to the lower arm wouod have been real nice! I think this may be why they used a knuckle at the rear aswell due to the offset

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That looks very purdy.
Thanks, I'm going to flip the bearing housing I think and machine for a thicker snap ring and wider aswell, I'm just worried of it breaking it but my research has told me the snap ring I'm using is good for 10/12,000 lbs pressure! So I may be OK but I'm still going to flip it that way it's got more meat in the housing up top then below but to be honest I think both ways are fine as both make pretty equal forces up/down but I just feel happier this other way LOL
 
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Great work!

Now if we only had a viable swaybar option
 
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