Resolved Trans temperature seems abit high!

[EC17PSE]

Recently i got done with adding a new B&M trans cooler (trucool) which is medium sized and way bigger then oem, its 15.000 BTU and a trans temp that runs from the trans to the cooler but recently been seeing temps get very high!
Converting to F its seen 320f!!! And today i added ducting to make sure all the air goes through the cooler aswel and im still seeing 284f!! I zee on here the rear is return and front is feed so i have it in the front feed as thats to the cooler from what i saw,

Now i never logged the oem setup but surely this trans cooler is not small! As its bigger then oem and all of the vendors sell this sized unit to us all!!

So what the bloody hell is the trans doing at this temp!!!

Just to confirm i have checked the gauge and it is set to °C and it sits around 135-150 °C which is very high!

Any ideas as to why im seeing this! Have i got the temp sensor placed wrongly? Its a brand new kit from a racing company here in the UK that just do sensors for race cars.

Could it be these trucool coolers are not as good as the bar and fin types like setrab and mocals.

Any advice is welcome as i need to get this sorted as its worrying me a tad

Pic is is °C

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[asexton6969]

I honestly think its reading farenheit. 320 degrees would be melting certain components in the transmission. Kiggly doesn't even see temps that high from what I remember.

 

[EC17PSE]

i will go through the settings again, but when i checked it the code flashing up was for C but i will swap it over and see if the digits alter, maybe its a reverse setup

 

[asexton6969]

Was this during normal driving or heavy launch and use? 135-150 would be very normal for daily driving.

 

[EC17PSE]

if it does check out its in C then any ideas as to the problem , Im scratching my head here as all I did was install a cooler and temp sensor

 

[EC17PSE]

Was this during normal driving or heavy launch and use? 135-150 would be very normal for daily driving.

the temps are with driving on the highway and then going some to see how the car is doing, but are these numbers your talking about in F i assume 135/150F?

 

[asexton6969]

Correct 135-150 in farenheit. Hell my 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD runs 150 and under unless hauling and then its still only 175 or so.

Honestly, you would be having transmission issues if you were seeing 320 Fahrenheit.

 

[EC17PSE]

thats what I was thinking originally but when i checked the gauge and it said C it worried me again , i shall swap it over and see what it reads on the next temp symbol

 

[EC17PSE]

Correct 135-150 in farenheit. Hell my 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD runs 150 and under unless hauling and then its still only 175 or so.

Honestly, you would be having transmission issues if you were seeing 320 Fahrenheit.

I just checked and it is 100% on C so im seeing 315F in temps according to my display

 

[EC17PSE]

so I spoke to Tim Zimmer and he sent me a link which is here http://w4a33.com/wiki/doku.php?id=transcooling#transmission_cooler_sizing

according to this the out side of the trans is the converter and said that 300F is fine and normal! and this is where the tran temp gauge reads from and mine is in this location inline! so if that is still correct then I guess my temps seem normal then,

im going to get a reading from the trans pan tomorrow with a probe and see what it reads, if all is good then I shall stop worrying or add a fan to the back of the cooler to pull air through more.

not really sure what else to do otherwise

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Ouch! -I get around 150-190* (F) out of my 1g w4a33, while cruising.. but I'm also running a huge trans cooler; a Fluidyne ~20x10" that I mounted between the FMIC & the radiator. I tapped my AT Temp gauge sensor right in the AT pan. Where do you have your temp sensor installed at?

Also, where is your cooler mounted? I originally had a smaller cooler mounted in the passenger air dam, but I found that wasn't an ideal location, as there was very little air flow to that area in stop & go traffic... having the radiator fans pull air through it, in it's new location helped tremendously (I've switched my cooling fans over to pusher mounts & the AT cooler is right in front of them).

 

[EC17PSE]

Ouch! -I get around 150-190* (F) out of my 1g w4a33, while cruising.. but I'm also running a huge trans cooler; a Fluidyne ~20x10" that I mounted between the FMIC & the radiator. I tapped my AT Temp gauge sensor right in the AT pan. Where do you have your temp sensor installed at?

Also, where is your cooler mounted? I originally had a smaller cooler mounted in the passenger air dam, but I found that wasn't an ideal location, as there was very little air flow to that area in stop & go traffic... having the radiator fans pull air through it, in it's new location helped tremendously (I've switched my cooling fans over to pusher mounts & the AT cooler is right in front of them).

My temp sensor is inline on the out port of the trans, this is what i just read as the TC outlet and is going to be higher temps then normal.

I do have it in that opening, since the oem cooler was in the same opening its decent enough for now it will do, its fully encased and has ducting so no air gets around the cooler now,

I considered putting it behind the fmic but was not sure if it would not get good air behind it, i took best guess that a small opening in pure fresh air is better then behind a fmic,

What i might do is add some air catchers on the opening, so more air is trapped going around the bumper and pulls it in, seen it before on somenother cars trying to grab more air through a cooler

 

[EC17PSE]

Going to put this down as resolved as for a few reasons,

1st, as stated above the link Tim sent me said if logging temps from the outlet side on the trans then it will likely see around 300F as thats from the TC and online trans temps in the TC can reach past 350F so im safe within ATF fluid rules for that, (still dont understand if fluid breaks down at 250f how its acceptabke for the fluid to reach 350f in the TC and be fine)? Seems a bit backwards to me! Maybe its because its done its job with the clutches and its the last thing out.

2nd, i probed my fluid directly with a long thermometer after a drive and upto temp i was getting readings in the pan of 70C which is right around 158F so for that matter its well within service levels and perfectly fine.

So i guess the worry is over and everything is perfectly ok, just need to keep an eye on it and if it rises past the limits then i shall install a fan to draw more air through.

 

[bling5tatus]

I see less than 180*F in my (Lexus IS300) auto when pulling a 600lb trailer + car parts in 95*F ambient temp.

I heard that over 200* is what you don't want. If you're worried add more coolers and fans to your coolers and duct the car properly if that's not already done.

 

[EC17PSE]

I see less than 180*F in my (Lexus IS300) auto when pulling a 600lb trailer + car parts in 95*F ambient temp.

I heard that over 200* is what you don't want. If you're worried add more coolers and fans to your coolers and duct the car properly if that's not already done.

Im now not worried, if i was logging at the pan it would be alot lower, i checked the pan temp today and i was seeing 156f so thats fine,

Logging from the outlet from the TC thats when temps come out hotter and will see this on our cars, this is info i did not know until last night but now i know its all good,

 

[kronus]

Im now not worried, if i was logging at the pan it would be alot lower, i checked the pan temp today and i was seeing 156f so thats fine,

Logging from the outlet from the TC thats when temps come out hotter and will see this on our cars, this is info i did not know until last night but now i know its all good,

Did Tim Zimmer give you a safe temp limit from the outlet? I have my sensor there as well, so I’m curious what acceptable outlet temps should be.

 

[EC17PSE]

Did Tim Zimmer give you a safe temp limit from the outlet? I have my sensor there as well, so I’m curious what acceptable outlet temps should be.

Tim just sent me a link which i posted above a few replys ago, in that link it said the outlet being from the TC would be around 300F, it said no more then that but when googling the TC can reach 350-380f so im going to base my max limit on 360f and convert that to °C for my gauge which gives me 182C.if i can keep it lower then that good if not then i will sort it out to get it down to that,

I never knew about this and it was not documented anywhere on here so i think its about time i make a write up on it and make it more obvious using temp sensors in this line vs the pan

 

[asexton6969]

Good to hear, to be honest I didn't even think about it being on the outlet. I run my sensor after the cooler. I'm not so worried about my outlet temps as I am about my temps after the cooler. When those temps start to rise above normal than I know my cooler is getting heat soaked and its time to back off.

 

[kronus]

Tim just sent me a link which i posted above a few replys ago, in that link it said the outlet being from the TC would be around 300F, it said no more then that but when googling the TC can reach 350-380f so im going to base my max limit on 360f and convert that to °C for my gauge which gives me 182C.if i can keep it lower then that good if not then i will sort it out to get it down to that,

I never knew about this and it was not documented anywhere on here so i think its about time i make a write up on it and make it more obvious using temp sensors in this line vs the pan

Ah yeah, I saw the link after I posted. Thanks for the info.

 

[chrysler kid]

No, your sensor is broken.

That heat wouldn't just magically disappear.

Your other readings would be considerably higher

So you have already acknowledged the sensor is useless by having to take arbitrary secondary readings. You might as well just take it off and throw it in the trash if it just feeds you nonsense to the instrument cluster

 

[EC17PSE]

No, your sensor is broken.

That heat wouldn't just magically disappear.

Your other readings would be considerably higher

So you have already acknowledged the sensor is useless by having to take arbitrary secondary readings. You might as well just take it off and throw it in the trash if it just feeds you nonsense to the instrument cluster

The sensor is not the problem, the problem is the sensors location for the reading, i have confirmed the pan fluid temp is well within limits,

The location of the sensor reads from the torque converter so it WILL see alot higher temps,

 

[EC17PSE]

Good to hear, to be honest I didn't even think about it being on the outlet. I run my sensor after the cooler. I'm not so worried about my outlet temps as I am about my temps after the cooler. When those temps start to rise above normal than I know my cooler is getting heat soaked and its time to back off.

I was thinking of doing an after temp location but from what google showed me alot like it before to see actual temps coming out of the trans, quite afew had it in the pan which would possibly be the more ideal way for us,

After the cooler is certainly something im looking into now and see if i can use 2 sensors and 1 gauge and toggle it so j can read 1 or the other with a flick of the switch, gonna look at the wiring and see what is needed to make this way work

 

[EC17PSE]

No, your sensor is broken.

That heat wouldn't just magically disappear.

Your other readings would be considerably higher

So you have already acknowledged the sensor is useless by having to take arbitrary secondary readings. You might as well just take it off and throw it in the trash if it just feeds you nonsense to the instrument cluster

Also forgot to add this morning when i wrote this that if the temp sensor was bad it would not use the range it is seeing, it would either go very high or low but it warms up from ambiant temps to working temps,

The sensor also drops when i stop pushing because the torque converter is not working hard any more there for heat drops from it,

If it was in the pan, temps would sit quite still and only raise when going hard for a while,

With the sensor in the outlet torque conv side it is always going to be moving non stop, it wont settle because its forever drawing heat from it, its also the last thing fluid hits before getting cooled so again as per the link above the temps from this outlet WILL hit 300+ F because of this reason,

I have confirmed everything else and nothing is now a miss so simplely put the lack of data on this outlet is what threw me because not 1 mention of this is on this forum that i found while searching.

 

[007jimmy]

I prefer my temp sending unit after the cooler. I already know trans fluids going to the cooler will be considerably higher so once I start to heat soak the cooler I want to know. Probably no wrong way just as long as you monitor your temps and act accordingly.

 

[EC17PSE]

I prefer my temp sending unit after the cooler. I already know trans fluids going to the cooler will be considerably higher so once I start to heat soak the cooler I want to know. Probably no wrong way just as long as you monitor your temps and act accordingly.

Thats what i originally wanted to do, i was in 2 minds but opted to see if it goes too hit coming out it might be wrong, gonna have a think about 2nd location sensor, wether it be return or directly in the pan, but i assume the return goes straight to the pan? Do you know if this is true?