1G Suspension mods and 60 foots?

[Geeb]

what are your guys suspension/drivetrain mods/clutch setup/etc and 60 foots to boot?
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I got a set of full 1g koni yellows on tein springs, enkei evos on 235 poor man slicks (ice tires)

The rest of my suspension is basically stock... I've got a lot of projects going on simultaneously with the car while the blocks getting prepped at the machine shop...
IE..
Rebuilding steering rack (with flyin miada mod/welding slop), building all my fuel lines, modding my sending unit, modding fuel tank for -an return, setting up gauges (e85 %, boost, oil temp, oil pres)

Right now I'm shaving/painting my engine bay, and finishing my wire tuck..

So I'm trying to come up with a plan in the mean time for the future..

I was looking at different things like bushing kits, DIY control arms (EXCEPT most write ups have all their pics deleted which is.. Awesome..), tubular mustache bar, etc

But what effect do these things have on 60 foot times, and what else could/should be done?

My cars gutted behind the front seats. I'm looking into a roll cage, and kirkey race seat, doing a battery relocation for cleaner 90° UICP out of a q45, and little better weight distribution..


I have a welded center diff, surrounded by a Brand new built/double synchro (by dogbox performance) with a QM rally twin disc.. With a fully built motor/head bolted to it.. With poly mounts inserted..

I'm running a Pte bb 6165, .63ar hot side... Hoping for 550ish whp on e85. So I don't really need axles and such..

Just looking for any tricks/tips/help/mods to lay the power down. Especially since its my first twin disc.
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Thanks guys.-geeb

 

[diambo4life]

My Galant has D2 coilovers (street), ACT3200 with a Clutch Net (now California Clutch) unsprung 4 puck, welded center diff. I have a set of 26" slicks on it that have very little track time. 1.75 60 is my best on the street tires and slicks which were at 30psi when I ran.

The one mod I really want to do is eliminate the active rear toe stuff which I believe is hurting my 60's a lot. My old Talon hooked much better with just street tires, lowering springs/AGXs and the old school Taboo mod for the rear upper control arms. The VR4 is also a good 300-400lbs heavier.

 

[Geeb]

Does rear active toe have much to do with launching and hooking up proper?

 

[diambo4life]

Does rear active toe have much to do with launching and hooking up proper?

Not ideal for drag racing since the geometry of the suspension changes in such a way that would reduce traction. You get a lot of negative camber and toe in. It is more of a "handling" improvement suspension setup that was very popular in the 90s.

 

[boostdawd]

Back when I first got my gsx and took it to the track, all my suspension components were stock. Nothing done to the engine performance wise(14b) and running street tires. Only upgrade I had was a 4 puck clutch from zoom(my buddy worked at napa and gave me a good deal). I was running 1.7, 1.8 60ft all night. I believe the best mod u can get is seat time and practice launching.

 

[Geeb]

My first time running my first dsm (10ish years ago) was a 20g with an act 2600/street disc/almost stock everything else.. First run was a 1.8 second was a 1.6, then a boosted 350z spewed oil halfway down the track and a rusty 5.0 mustang ran into a BRAND NEW (800ish miles on it) evo while it was in line, and needless to say I didn't get another run in and didn't get a chance to go back.

This one I bought almost 2 years ago and never drove yet, will be my first twin disc.. Going to have to learn everything all over. Lol.. So yeah I hear u boostdawd

But finally things are starting to come together. With the wire tuck, full fuel line/pump setup, motor/trans built, figuring out the best suspension setup for me, repainting engine bay, de-rusting certain stuff underneath and refinishing and making the gutted interior look halfway decent..

As all(or most) of you know. Its a crazy long and detailed process. Cut corners only lead to problems later.

 

[bastarddsm]

I personally have a different view from most. I run a 4 spider center diff. I bellieve that no matter what you do to the car the rear will always have more hook than needed, especially if you are on stock axles diff and tcase. Henceforth you need to concentrate on getting the front to stick. I have not been extremely thorough with my experiments, but from what I can see so far, I think spring rate and launch technique are the 2 big players. I think you need lots of rear spring to keep the ass end from squatting, and then it forces the car to have a pitch center that is much farther back than the cg, reducing weight transfer. I certainly think that bolting on a set of name brand coil overs isn't the answer.

Welding the center diff, and being delicate with the clutch is the cheap way, but it's hard on stuff, and one wrong move breaks stuff. With an open cd and bias ply tires I've found it almost impossible to break driveline parts.

In the spirit of being helpfull I'm running evo 8 front struts modified to be a coil over, shortened 2", 400lb springs, and custom valving. In the rear I have a set of blown KYB AGX and 325lb springs. Car has an open CD, evo1 3.909 gears, stock dsm first gear, 26x9.5 QTP's, and I leave off a 6500rpm free rev. Car has been going 1.55 60's the last few days, and just today ran a 9.80@144, it weighs about 3300lbs. It was 3250 the other day low fuel, I have since added a scatter shield, and driveshaft loop.

 

[Geeb]

I personally have a different view from most. I run a 4 spider center diff. I bellieve that no matter what you do to the car the rear will always have more hook than needed, especially if you are on stock axles diff and tcase. Henceforth you need to concentrate on getting the front to stick. I have not been extremely thorough with my experiments, but from what I can see so far, I think spring rate and launch technique are the 2 big players. I think you need lots of rear spring to keep the ass end from squatting, and then it forces the car to have a pitch center that is much farther back than the cg, reducing weight transfer. I certainly think that bolting on a set of name brand coil overs isn't the answer.

Welding the center diff, and being delicate with the clutch is the cheap way, but it's hard on stuff, and one wrong move breaks stuff. With an open cd and bias ply tires I've found it almost impossible to break driveline parts.

In the spirit of being helpfull I'm running evo 8 front struts modified to be a coil over, shortened 2", 400lb springs, and custom valving. In the rear I have a set of blown KYB AGX and 325lb springs. Car has an open CD, evo1 3.909 gears, stock dsm first gear, 26x9.5 QTP's, and I leave off a 6500rpm free rev. Car has been going 1.55 60's the last few days, and just today ran a 9.80@144, it weighs about 3300lbs. It was 3250 the other day low fuel, I have since added a scatter shield, and driveshaft loop.

How much power are you running?
Off what size turbo/what size hot side?

 

[bastarddsm]

Car has not been on a dyno in this configuration, I'd expect close to 700whp though with 144@3300lbs. I'm on a Holset he351 basically a hx40 in a 9cm single scroll housing, about a .63 A/R. Nothing is optimized for spool either, large runner cast exhaust manifold, jmf race intake, 1g head, kelford 272 cams. Any way this particular combination works. Any change might through it all off. It took me like 4 years to find it, but the results are awesome, no one in the 9s on a he351, and very few on a hx40. Look at the rest of the dsm/evo world, and it usually takes a 6266 or a hta86 to get there.

Anyway I had a long talk with a couple clutch guys on drag week. Long and short of it is, usually in a stick car you would have a tuneable clutch. You set up your combination, and you tune the clutch to the power/traction/track conditions. Even air cooled vw guys do it my shimming the pp to set a breakaway torque.

We can't we are stuck with limited clutch and trans options. You have to tune the combination and traction to work with the clutch.

My lat passes I was basically slowly dumping the clutch while feeding it throttle. The inertia of the flywheel would get the car rolling while the turbo caught it, and took off from there.

I know some guys tune the chassis to allow some wheel slip on the hit. They sidestep the clutch off a 2 step with lots of boost. The tires slip a bit untill the chassis catches up. It works, but you depend on all tracks hooking the same.

Sorry I'm.giving you a lot of info, without a clear path, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. The 2 step tons of boost quartermaster garbage way didn't work for me. It works for others. You gotta find what works for you and your combination. Also I only 60 1.5s, these cars will go 1.3s with my kind of power. I'm happy with a 1.5, because I can do it consistantly on a good track, and I haven't been breaking shit. That's the compromise I'm willing to make. If my car was a race car and was like 2500lbs, and I had the high dollar driveline parts, I'd be looking for more. Also keep mind most of evos in this range only go 1.5. (they have a f***ed view on suspension)

My final note, if you have the choice between more power with a looser housing, or less power and quicker spool and a tighter housing, the tighter housing is probably a better choice. Just because it might take you from needing a 7000rpm 2step to leaving off a easy free rev.

 

[Geeb]

Thanks for the reply..

But yeah I'm probably going to start off with being a tons of boost, QM twin, 2 step guy hah.. At least to start, until I get more tuneable suspension/other parts...

The only thing I was questioning is I have a jmf drag, with a q45, to 3" cold piping and 2.5 hot pipe to a .63 ar pte6165.. So it's like you said nothing else is setup for quick spool except the hot side hah..

Hopefully I can get it all tuned well together, esp with that throttle body and all..