Street Build 300-400whp 95 TSI awd

[Anthony_2gnt]

So guys, I just got myself a 1995 Eagle Talon, TSI awd. 90k original miles, bone stock everything. Clean and straight body and title I'll be working and posting updates here on everything I do to her. Have to get her running, as she is sitting at a no start right now.
EDIT: Forgot to add the parts I plan to put on my car.
1: Diagnosing the No start. If worse comes to worse, and it's a blown head, full rebuild.
2: After I get her in pristine condition, the bolt ons:
I.Fuel
b.thinking 950cc injectors
c.walboro 255 fuel pump
d. upgraded afpr
II.Air/Exhaust
a.Short Ram air intake system (DONE)
b. 3'' downpipe, 3'' exhaust
c. FP exhaust manifold
d. FMIC
III. Turbo
a. DSMlink full
b. send ecu to ecmlink to chip
c. 3 pillar gauge
d. s16g turbo (DONE)
e. turbo inlet ported
f. upgraded BOV
g. manual boost controller (DONE)
h. possibly an oil catch can

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

Update one: No Start. went through the ignition system and am getting power all the way to the plugs, and they are sparking. Checked the fuel system: I am getting fuel to the fuel rail, through the rail, and a good spray through the injectors. Tried checking compression, tool wasn't reading anything, going to try a different compression tester when I can get one. Today I need to check the CAS and timing to see if it is all aligned correctly. Car cranks, gets fuel, and gets power. So it seems right now like its timing or compression.

 

[ErikTande]

Your mod list wil get you 300 no problem. You can scratch the AFPR off the list, the stock one will handle the Walbro 255 just fine. And you can take the fuel rail off the list too, the stock rail will provide more than enough fuel for 400hp+.

Good luck!

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

Your mod list wil get you 300 no problem. You can scratch the AFPR off the list, the stock one will handle the Walbro 255 just fine. And you can take the fuel rail off the list too, the stock rail will provide more than enough fuel for 400hp+.

Good luck!

sweet thanks man

Edit: in reference to post below. Actually yeah, I do remember reading some stuff like that. I think I will stick with getting the afpr just for my own peace of mind.

 

[lasershark]

I have heard people say that you don't need an afpr for a wally 255 but most people over run the stock fpr at idle. I guess it can be hit or miss because there are a few that say you don't but the general consensus is that an afpr is needed for a 255.

I see you bought the one in Oregon.

 

[oren hughbanks]

I have a fuel lab afpr kit I got from extreme psi, great little kit for the price . If you do get a afpr, I would go for the mini style regulator it's a little easier to mount. But honestly I set my psi once, and haven't touched the thing since. I have the AEM 320lph fuel pump, I went with that since its compatible with all fuels, E85 , E100, methanol, whatever . It's a great little pump.

 

[narf]

Start with Link..... learn it. You can adjust your global/dead time settings to "Solve" the fuel pump over run. Make sure to rewire it as a "free" mod. AFPR not needed.

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

So tonight I tested my CAS, it was fine. Tested timing using http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-2g-quick-timing-belt-alignment-check.306607/ and found my crank super hard to turn when it was around tdc, Near impossible. Suspecting some things are hitting each other in the head. Compression test still isn't reading anything, making me think there just any compression haha. Anyways, I've started pulling out the motor tonight. About halfway there, should be out the next couple of days depending on school and gf.

 

[lasershark]

Before you get too far pull the plugs and then turn the crank. Frees up compression, with the plugs in, it is pretty stiff to turn them. (depending on strength) Hard to measure what's hard for one might not be hard for another. It would suck to pull the motor and not need to. Plus you could just pull the head and check it out.

Was the timing good?

 

[oren hughbanks]

Yeah sounding like you got some valve/piston contact in there.. post up some pics!

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

I had the plugs pulled, was following quite a few different threads for advice. I never actually found out if the timing was okay, as the crank would come to a point where it wouldn't turn, felt like parts were conflicting. I could just do the head pull, but I figured I might as well pull it all out, clean it up, new seals and gaskets for everything. Makes me feel better. Will have pics up as soon as I have the engine pulled. Been taking pictures to keep track off all the wires, tubes.

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

Update, haven't been working on it, school is taking up a lot of time, and we have 2 other cars in the shop right now.

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

Update, these last couples of days I've gotten both axles pulled (intermediate shaft bracket bolts on the drivers side sucked, took me forever.) Drive line disconnected and transfer case dropped down. Just about all hoses and wires disconnected from the engine, I'm sure I missed something. Was getting ready to pull it today before time ran out again (school and gf ha). Was going to pull it using a 12mm bolt on the top left of the engine, right below the valve cover. And the top right of the engine, using a power steering bolt hole. But 12mm bolt on the top left broke as it was being tightened in so I bailed on the twelve mm. Made me a little wary of them. I've now hooked up my hooks to the left back intake Mani stud, and am going to try and use the right side engine mount (one in front of the cams) to pull the engine, Should be out tomorrow.

In the mean time that I can't find time to work on the car, I have been researching.

About $350-450 for my head to he rebuilt.
Valve job $195
Resurface $50
Each valve $9
Each guide $8
Disassemble and Reassemble $30
Pressure test $40
From Moffitt and Bratton machine shop.
(On recommendation, and when I called to see if they worked on Mitsubishi turbo engines, he went, "you mean the 4g63 engine?" Made me pretty happy.)

Timing belt kit about to be ordered once I've gotten the head into the shop, getting on from STM for 270.
Along with a water pump from ExtremePsi.

Going to order some new NGK spark plugs and wires as well.

And another kit from STM, complete engine overhaul gasket and seals kit so that I can just get everything done while its out of the car.

 

[oren hughbanks]

Good idea on the gasket and seals kit which one did u get?

 

[Tom6221]

are you going to use stock valvework or go with upgraded parts?

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_engine_gasket_kit.htm this is the gasket kit I'm going to get. Haven't got anything else, so I'm up for recommendations. And on the valve work, I have been debating on buying revised lifter, Brian Crower valves +1mm, and some guides if I can. But the shop doesn't offer a warranty if they use parts I supply ha

 

[oren hughbanks]

I got a top line gasket kit, it did the job but they were a little on the cheap side. I'd say go for the revised lifters while u have it apart. They r only like a hundred bucks or so. Cruise the classifieds on here can definitely score some good deals. So that machine shop won't offer you a warranty? That's kinda crappy. In just my opinion, I wouldn't stress to much about about going super built on the head. Having beefier springs and retainers is very nice insurance, but since you probably won't be revving it to 8-9k rpm, a oem spec head should be just fine. But I would get some ARP studs, can't go wrong there. And a nice quality torque wrench for putting it all back together. Did u check the deck surface to make sure it's still straight? also might have the shop enlarge the stud holes on the head to make sure the ARP studs will fit with no problem.

I got my t.wrench at Lowe's it's a kobalt. It's a awesome torque wrench for the price. It comes with its own certification for accuracy hand signed with matching serial numbers, certified accurate within .5% !

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

So update for today, I got the engine out. Have started dissassembly. Oh ya, and I got a couple torque wrenches (ft lbs, and In Lbs.) and some rachet wrenches woo
Few Pictures

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

Took my head into the machine shop this morning. Really confident in the machinist, he seemed to know a lot about our engines, and works on them all the time. I am going to have the deck milled, a valve job done, replacement of bent valves and cracked guides, and cleaned. While the head is in the shop, I will be working on disassembling the rest of the block, and taking off the transmission. After the Block is fully taken apart I will be bringing it into the shop as well to see what he recommends.

 

[oren hughbanks]

Nice work so far bro. Pretty much ran into the same thing on my build. Decided to just start from scratch and get it all done right.
I took my block to my local to a local shop, had the deck milled , bored .020 over, honed and hot tanked two times. I had the tech at the shop assemble the bottom end for me, since I don't have any of the gauges required. He did a great Job I'll post up some pics.
From my build, I wish I had gone forged on the pistons. I'm sure my 2g piston, 1g rod combo will hold up fine, but now that I have gotten use to the power and I want more. The shop owner at my machine shop is a old school guy, and set up my block with a 45 degree hone on the cylinder walls. I was a little doubtful at first, but man I gotta say those rings sealed up fantastic! Great compression.

I went with OEM Mitsubishi rings for the 2g pistons, .020 oversized of course. They were pricey, 160.00 for the set but I figure what could be more important than the rings.

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

I think that I am going to go with just some upgraded Rods, just some eagle rods with arp bolts, for the bottom end. The 2g pistons should be just fine for the hp goal i want 300-400/450. I'm going to take in the block and have the machinist see if it needs any work to the cylinders (I don't think they do, the cross/hatches look really nice still) and have him assemble the bottom end because I would trust him to get everything within spec better than I can. Eventually some 272 cams (exhaust & intake), with some Brian Crower springs. and revised lifters for the top end. That's about it for the engine itself on upgrades.
I don't really want to bore the cylinders unless I need to

 

[oren hughbanks]

I'd say get some 1g rods! They r very strong and way cheaper. Idk if u have ever seen the comparison between the 1g and 2g but Damn way beefier. ARP bolts are a must. 're using major bolts like that scares the poopoo outta me. I Did the ARP main studs too, worth every penny. I have 2 sets of 1g rods if your interested bro I'll hook u up

 

[1990dsmkid]

You do know that 2g pistons are press on and aftermarket rods are free floating right? To use 2g pistons, groves will need to be cut to hold the clips that keep the wrist pins in. If you are going to buy aftermarket rods, might as well spend the extra money on some forged pistons. Otherwise save your money and keep stock rods and pistons.

1g rods on a 7bolt crank requires maching and needs to be done right and accurate. Not worth the money in my opinion.

 

[oren hughbanks]

 

[Anthony_2gnt]

I actually had no idea about the free floating vs press on, oops my bad. Aand yeah I didn't want to do 1g rods on a 7-bolt, I knew that would be more work. I guess I will just have the shop check out my rods and pistons and if they are fine stay with them, and if not, get some rods and forged pistons. Thanks dsmkid