Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[martin_new]

How do I check the ecu?

 

[pauleyman]

Pumping fuel through the rail does not mean you're getting fuel. Just means the fuel pump works. Are injectors firing?

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

coolant temp sensor can cause no starts because its the first sensor the ecu checks when you start your car, Kinda like when you check the weather to see if you'll need to where a jacket, The coolant temp sensor tells the ecu how cold it is and how to adjust fuel accordingly so your car starts in the winter or when ever without using too little or too much fuel. its basically a temperature controlled variable resister so test ohms hot and cold to see if its working

 

[martin_new]

I'm going to redue my timing along with a new cps

 

[pauleyman]

What brought you to this conclusion?

 

[jared98gst]

 

[martin_new]

Just to rule out the timing and if it is well then I'm a dumb ass

 

[Dsm96GSX]

My car is running E85, 1050cc injectors, and a walbro 255 fuel pump. I just had the battery recharged. Everytime I try to cold start the car it takes a few cranks before it manages to start, and even if it starts I have to feather the throttle or it dies. Is my fuel pump dying or my injectors clogged?

 

[briansmith]

Engines need 3 things to run. Fuel spark and compression. That's all. So if it won't start 1,2, or all all are missing I would retest fuel pump running. Injector pulse fire at the coil. Fire at the plug. Compression numbers on each cylinder

 

[ufcchris]

thanks guys... unplugged clutch switch and it starts no problem.... knew it wasn't battery as the top was going up and down fine and all lights were on.

 

[mercaholik]

Is it cold out where you are? Ethanol is known for being hard to start in the cold. What do you tune with, you could try to adjust your cold start enrichment.

 

[Dsm96GSX]

Is it cold out where you are? Ethanol is known for being hard to start in the cold. What do you tune with, you could try to adjust your cold start enrichment.

Yeah its pretty cold here maybe 35-40 degrees. I am currently using Dsmlink V2.5 to tune

 

[Benzino]

I know I'm a noobie to the sight, however if you check the fuel pressure that will rule out the pump. Will it stay running after it warms up?

 

[Benzino]

Another thought would be to check the plugs for fuel foul could be the bigger injectors fouled the plugs.

 

[luv2rallye]

Also make sure your fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking (fuel back into the tank constantly) and fuel rail maintains pressure for hours after turned off.

 

[Dsm96GSX]

I know I'm a noobie to the sight, however if you check the fuel pressure that will rule out the pump. Will it stay running after it warms up?

Thanks I haven't thought about that Ill check it next time I start the car. And yes it does stay running after it warms up.

 

[Dark_Horse]

Had an interesting problem develop about a week ago. Car starts 100% of the time when the engine is cold.

If I shut the engine off when it's at operating temperature, it will not start again unless I hold the accelerator down, and even then, that doesn't work 100% of the time. It acts like it's flooded, but I don't think that can be correct because if I disconnect the battery for a few seconds, it starts up just fine.

What could be getting triggered that is preventing the car from starting when it's warmed up to operating temp that disconnecting the battery would fix?

Cliffs:
Car starts fine when cold
At operating temperature, car will not start
At operating temp, if I disconnect and reconnect the battery, the car will start

 

[GST with PSI]

I'd guess the ECU is not seeing coolant temperature. So, the sensor could be bad, the wiring could be broken, etc.

Look in ECMlnk and see if the ECU is reading coolant temperature.

 

[Dark_Horse]

Look in ECMlnk and see if the ECU is reading coolant temperature.

ECMlink is able to read coolant temp. According to my log, temp was at about 196 degrees when I shut the car off and attempted to restart. Of course, stupid me...Did not save the log.

 

[GST with PSI]

Post up an idle log of the car getting up to temp, shutting it down and attempting to restart.

 

[inthemidst]

Bad ecu

 

[Dark_Horse]

Bad ecu

I sure hope not. I had the caps replaced 2 years ago and the guys at ECMlink inspected it in 2013 and said it was fine. But I guess that could be the problem. Would sure explain why it only happens some of the time.

Post up an idle log of the car getting up to temp, shutting it down and attempting to restart.

Will do. Let me see if I can recreate the problem. It doesn't do it 100% of the time. It's random. Has happened 3x in the last 2 weeks.

 

[Dark_Horse]

I figured out the problem. The ECU is fried. That explains the burning smell that randomly appeared 2 weeks ago and the random hot start problems.

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Blown ISC driver, which means the ISC is either bad, or going bad.

 

[GST with PSI]

I had an issue much like this a short time ago. I'd like to explain a little bit about how to correlate which ECU driver is responsible for running which ISC coil (this is for a 1G ECU). I had to cross reference a wiring schematic because this is not clearly spelled out in any one place, so hopefully this saves someone the trouble in the future.

The ISC has 2 coils. They are referred to as coil pair A, and coil pair B.

Coil Pair A
-When looking into the ISC, coil pair A is pins 1, 2 and 3.
-ISC Pin 2 is ground for coil pair A
-ISC Pin 1 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 58
-ISC Pin 3 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 59
-IC107 is the ECU driver that will blow if coil pair A is bad.

Coil Pair B
-When looking into the ISC, coil pair B is pins 4, 5 and 6.
-ISC Pin 5 is ground for coil pair A
-ISC Pin 4 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 68
-ISC Pin 6 is a coil and goes to ECU pin 67
-IC105 is the ECU driver that will blow if coil pair B is bad.

ECU Injector driver information page

Here's the full thread: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB11&Number=1194088&page=0&fpart=1

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[mikexdillon]

Hey guys,
I have a 97 talon tsi awd and it will crank, sputter like its about to start, but never does, except that it will occasionally start right up and stay around 1000 rpm'so for just a few seconds, but then it's like someone reached over and turned the key.

The car used to crank long and sputter, but it would eventually start every time, but that was over the summer and it's in the 20's here today.

I specifically haven't checked the fuel pressure at the rail yet because there's no valve to test from, so if anyone has any ideas on that, let me know.

I have done:
Fuel pump
& Filter
Blew out the fuel lines
Plugs and wires
Both coolant temp sensors

I also ran a new power wire back to my fuel pump because there was a voltage drop of about 1.7 from my battery to my pump. After I did this it seems like it gets to a point where it wants to start quicker.

Any help is appreciated!