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so this hose ruptured while I was on the freeway...

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BloodBrother

Proven Member
53
2
May 19, 2016
Chehalis, Washington
Can anyone please confirm that this is a coolant line to the oil filter housing? And if it is, may I ask for the specific type of hose I need? I believe I read it needs to be braided, but how big is it? Additionally, it is secured at the top of the hose with a clamp that needs pliers to remove, however I could not see the other end, is it also secured with one of those clamps? Thanks for the input !
 

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Wow I am blown away by how helpful everyone is on this site! Thank you for the link. May I ask what you mean by service the cooling system? I was not able to get the car on a jack tonight, would going from underneath mean I have to remove anything in the way to replace that?

I notice that the hose on the link is for a 2g, would that work for a 1g just the same? I should have mentioned that.. my bad
 
I like to drain and fill the cooling system whenever I open it up, as well as replace the radiator cap and thermostat. Cheap insurance. It's been quite some time but if I remember correctly the hose is just underneath the car. Get the car jacked up and you should easily see where this hose terminates. Good luck, do it once, do it right.
 
I apologize as I am a little under the weather and having only owned a 2g I am a bit foggy on this hose for a 1g. Doing a little bit of searching I was not coming up with a part number besides 3/8 ID hose. Heater hose or any hose designed for coolant flow should work and I was seeing dimensions of roughly 7" long. I hope someone can chime in and confirm that for you.

When you can, set up a DSM profile. Welcome to the forums. They may be 26 years old but DSM's are still finding new love.

UPDATE: Ended up finding the part numbers: MD167360 and MD163197. I believe MD163197 is what you are looking for. Unfortunately, this part seems to be discontinued, however you would need to check with some of our vendors or the dealer. I tried to interchange this number and had no luck with direct replacement aftermarket companies. Try JNZTuning, your local dealer or simply bulk heater hose 3/8" ID.
 
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That is in fact a coolant hose that goes to your oil cooler if memory serves me right. Any off the shelf hose from auto zone or parts store should work. I second the inspection of all the other small coolant hoses to avoid issues in the future.
 
Thank you for your input asexton and boostdawd! I got the problem hose replaced, and I intend to replace the thermostat this weekEnd. When I went to drive the car, I noticed there wasn't power steering and the car temp started to get above normal (could be air bubbles, will bleed it tomorrow) and my check battery light came on (replaced alternator less than 2 months ago, could it have fried with the hot coolant leaking onto it from yesterday?
 
Check to ensure that you still have a belt running from your crank pulley to your water pump and alternator. It may have been thrown off causing overheating and your battery light to come on.
 
Make sure your crank pulley is in good shape and the outer rim isn't separating from the core. Also make sure that the four bolts holding it in place are properly torqued down. Then ensure that the big bolt in the center is tight and the crank sprocket hasn't begun to back away from the block.

Check that the alternator and water pump pulleys spin freely by hand before putting the belt back on. Once the belt is installed, run a finger around the outside of the belt checking for snags, bolt heads, or anything else that could grab and shred the belt.

Also check the pulleys for and sharp edges or nicks that might cut into the belt.
 
Make sure none of the pulleys have any wobble, prior to replacing the belt. Ensure the alternator and water pump feel good rotating by hand.

When you put a new belt on, it will require a considerable amount of pre-load to keep bearings from squealing. Generally, it seems to require the belt to be so tight that you can only twist it a quarter turn in the middle of the top (longest) section between pulleys. Ignore the traditional test of pushing on the belt to measure a certain amount of deflection.
Grab it in the middle of that run, and twist it. Set it as loose as you can without it squealing, but don't let it make noise for any length of time. That noise is the bearing balls/rollers sliding instead of rolling on the races inside the water pump. This will damage the bearings.

This design requires so much belt tension, that it ends up eating the alternator bearings, which seems to be the most common failure mode for them. Those alternator bearings are not available in the US, only in Japan, apparently.

BTW, those belts are susceptible to damage from road debris getting between them and a pulley, excessive heat, and soaking from oil or grease. The other possibility is a bent or loose pulley, that can cause the belt to run off. Make sure the alternator is mounted straight. The bottom mount can wear very badly, causing the alternator to sit cocked, and this can cause the belt to come off.

Disconnect the battery before adjusting/replacing the new belt, as the connections are very close to where you have to spin a wrench to loosen the bottom bolt/nut.
 
Hey guys . I finally had some time to work on the Talon. Got that hose replaced and I got 2 belts swapped out. Car is running great ! I appreciate everyone's input on the matter, the car is running because of you all, thank you.
 
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