The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Signs of a Spun Bearing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSMAddict

20+ Year Contributor
143
0
Oct 15, 2002
Austin_TX
Was wondering what characterisitics are associated with a car thats spun a bearing, thinking that may be my problem
 
do you think it is a rod bearing or main bearing?, if it's the rod bearing you will get a loud knocking noise all the time, if it's your main bearing your oil pressure will be really low, these are just a few signs.

:dsm:












"I'd piss on a spark plug if I thought it would help any!!"
 
im pretty sure its my rod bearing, cause yeah im getting that loud knocking/flapping noise. Its very hard to describe, but its loud and whenever im moving(and most of the time idling) ill hear it.
 
and if I have spun a rod bearing, what do u think the next best step would be in the repair process(scrap this block, or fix it)?
 
i would say that is it, the only real way is to pull the oil pan off and look and see. sorry to hear that.
 
pull the motor and have the rods and crank checked for damage, but i would say that you will need another set of rods, pistons and more than likely have to have the crank turned, the block can be bored if it did any damage to it, most of the damage is going to be in the bottom end, or you could find another motor and drop it in.
 
cost wise what do u think would be more efficient?? Go for a 6 bolt, or just work with what I have now?(75k on current motor)
 
go with a 6bolt if you can,i got to thinking about it and you may have crankwalk also.
 
even if my car didnt CW, looking like its 6bolt time, even tho I dont have the money to do it, seems to me to be the only option
 
if it just spun the rod bearing, and didnt damage anything else? is it still worth it to get it fixed, or should I no matter what just 6bolt it?
 
Throw the seven bolt out and put in a six.

By the time you rebuild everything, with the price, the pain you're going to have to go through to rebuild that motor which could more than likely crankwalk now that you've messed with the internal bearing structure on the 7 bolt, (That's at least in MY opinion, don't quote this as bible truth).. It's not worth the heartache.

With the 6 bolt, you get all sorts of NEW problems to deal with! Like shoddy installation, modification, and ECU gremlins!
 
i had the same decision to make back in march when i spun a bearing. either pay a local machine shop $1,300.00 to polish the crank a new bearings (plus removal and reinstallation) and still have to worry about crank-walk or drop in the 6-bolt. i decided to drop in the 6-bolt ($2,000.00) and hopefully not have to worry about the crank walk. after all the new parts required to convert to my 97, (approximately $1,500.00) and a boat load of labor costs from a shop who'd never done the conversion before i ended up spending about $7,000.00. hopefully your labor costs won't be as high as mine (i live in wyoming) in dropping in a 6-bolt.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top