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2G Shed find. dsm cherry popped. FUEL PROBLEM HELP!

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MetallicBooger2g

Probationary Member
14
9
Apr 2, 2016
gp, Oregon
Glad to finally to be a part of this community. So I happened to come across the car while looking at a place my friend was looking to rent. I noticed it was super straight and was the tsi awd model. The car has 140k and cosmetically it is super nice.

It has been sitting a little shed for 5 years though so dirt, flat tires, cat paw prints (culprit spotted and scratched), smells like an old tackle box on the inside, etc. The color is the metallic greenish yellow/oslo green. I have seen it debated on which its actually called so i'm at a loss on the actual name and paint code. Does anyone have production numbers for colors and trims?

Everthing appears to be stock. Just seems like a car thats deserves to be out there again. I bought a new battery and changed the battery post connectors/3" melted c- clamp holding the positive connector on OMG. Seriously, but its the only redneck engineering I have found yet. I pulled the fuel line off the fpr and turn the key to accessory... no sound of the fuel pump priming. I hit the clutch and it jumps to the floor and stays there so im assuming the slave cylinder need to be changed. The car will not move right now I am not sure if its because I can't engage the clutch or if its the brakes are locked due to rust. The motor turns over readily but wont fire due to no fuel. So the problems and plan of attack are as follows.

1. Get the car to roll- slave cylinder, fuel pump, stuck e-brake. Will the car roll without a properly working sc or does the e-brake seem more likely to be whats preventing the car from moving?

2. Get the car home, clean and maintenance the crap out of it. Fluids,filters,belts,tires,new grounds, etc..

3. The car is said to stall at stoplights once it gets warm. So im going to check the myriad of possibilities from the maf connector and sensor, boost leaks, vac lines, intake leaks, speedo sensors, tps sensor. Anything i'm neglecting would be welcomed.

4. Basically I would like to turn it back into a dependable car with the capability to be a daily. I know there really isn't a lot of these cars around in stock trim especially in this color.

...So the novel ends.
 
All this talk and no pictures? ;)
The car "should" roll in neutral regardless of the functionality of the slave cylinder, or any of the clutch related components.
It very well could be the caliper/s locked up. I had one lock up on me, just a side note, the pistons don't compress so to speak to manually "compress" them you have to turn/twist them.
That's only true on a 1g. 2gs have a separate emergency brake shoe syst inside the disc. All 4 calipers push in on a 2g.
 
Its home! Wacked the calipers and gave it a shove and it moved. Not very easily but its getting better. I got it on a trailer with a come along. Paulyman and lazershark thanks for the responses. So here is the crappy pic of the bunch I took the others are giving me some problems uploading. I will be posting those and some updates soon.
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Some progress has been made on the car lately. New fuel filter, battery, battery connectors, bath, pumped out the old gas in the tank. Fuel pump seems to be dead so the car has yet to come back to life. I will be ordering one of those today (denso). Fuel filter was a blast to change with these ham hocks! Dexterity ftw. The car cleaned up pretty nicely though it still needs a clay bar taken to it. Gonna tackle the interior soon with some green clean. When I get the car started I will be moving on to deciphering the stalling issue its said to have. Until next time.
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Very nice find, i LOVE the color too! Good luck with everything and hopefully all goes smoothly
 
The color is the metallic greenish yellow/oslo green. I have seen it debated on which its actually called so i'm at a loss on the actual name and paint code. Does anyone have production numbers for colors and trims?
Your color is Y91 Greenish-Yellow/Tropical Frosted lime, a 1995 Eagle color....not L55 Oslo Green which is a 1996-only Mitsubishi-specific color.
 
Your color is Y91 Greenish-Yellow/Tropical Frosted lime, a 1995 Eagle color....not L55 Oslo Green which is a 1996-only Mitsubishi-specific color.
Nice thank you :thumb:. That was what I was thinking. I didn't know they had year specific colors the debates I came across make more sense now. It has been resprayed due to a suicidal deer and the body shop not being able to panel match it. It is what it is. I have been pretty busy lately so no new parts on it yet. I cleaned up the interior a little and am gonna give the carpets some love soon. As far as a name I have been leaning torwards slimer or snot rocket so be my guest on the poll.
 
Nice thank you :thumb:. That was what I was thinking. I didn't know they had year specific colors the debates I came across make more sense now. It has been resprayed due to a suicidal deer and the body shop not being able to panel match it. It is what it is. I have been pretty busy lately so no new parts on it yet. I cleaned up the interior a little and am gonna give the carpets some love soon. As far as a name I have been leaning torwards slimer or snot rocket so be my guest on the poll.
Very nice find man. I found my 2gb Talon tsi awd like that. In the middle of no where under a tree buried halfway in the dirt. Show them some love and they will return it( some times ).
 
Been busy but the Walbro 255 is on the way. So maybe Friday I will see if this thing will start! I can't wait to see what's the cause of the stalling. The fuel filter was kinked at the top nut and pretty heavy when I changed it. I'm wondering if the pump going out coupled with the restriction of the filter had its part to play. But I will be ready to check out the basics once I have some fuel where I need it. Till' Santa comes.
 
OK so hit a wall today. I pulled the sending unit and everything is covered in rust. Has anyone had this problem as well? So the car seems to have been hit in the driver rear quarter. I'm wondering if the damn tank was damaged to the point where the steel started to corrode? This is gonna be awesome...here are some pics. Tank looks like a dirty fryer. Any and all help would be appreciated.
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OK so hit a wall today. I pulled the sending unit and everything is covered in rust. Has anyone had this problem as well? So the car seems to have been hit in the driver rear quarter. I'm wondering if the damn tank was damaged to the point where the steel started to corrode? This is gonna be awesome...here are some pics. Tank looks like a dirty fryer. Any and all help would be appreciated.
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Its toast, remove the tank and take it to be boiled. I had an old truck that had this problem. You may have to buy or find a new sending unit. You might also want to check your lines.
 
Oh wow, that is just terrible. Sending units can be found on the cheap if your thrifty. Ive never heard of boiling a tank before, but you may have better luck in the junk yard.

Great find on the car though. Give it the love it deserves.
 
Godschylde that's what I plan on doing. I will be dropping the rear subframe soon. Going through my options on the fuel lines. Looking at bushings and a couple other things as well. Jfpryde "boiling" is in reference to hot tanking. It's gonna get a whole new assembly and the tank will get a boiling at the local radiator shop. No junkyard stuff. I looked a little closer and the tank appears to be fine. Just a bunch of corrosion from the assembly I believe. Since this will be a pain I'm trying to be efficient and replace what I can while the subframe is out. Any tips on dropping the tank and subframe are welcome.
 
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