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Rotary Valve Cylinder Head Prototype

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So if anyone else is as confused as i was the first 3x times looking at this thread, here is an animation that calms the mind.

Thank you for posting. Great explanation video.
 
I have the complete manual books for the 95, I can go step by step to explain but it will take for ever, I can take pics and send you all the required pages to get it running so you can figure it out.

You are almos ther with the project, I'm anctious to see it running.

Yes please that would be very helpful. I have been going off of these
http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72
http://www.hotrodcoffeeshop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72
I think the manual should clear up for me whatever it is I am missing.


Ok I'm getting power on pin 16 (boost meter) via switch, and ground in pin 71 (ignition switch - ST).

All this test was with the ecu disconnected so let me know what happen.

Thanks for the info. I'll check if my wiring gives the same result. A little confused why pin 71 would be grounded though since I think it should go high when cranking.
 
Here is the MFI system
 

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Thanks miguelmcv I got it working! The CEL comes on and my scanner talkes to the ECU via the OBD2 port!

I opened up the ECU and there were two leaking capacitors. I replaced them and cleaned up the board. At that point still no CEL but it was evident the ECU was booting up because some of the outputs were doing what they should. Thanks to the schematics shared I see the CEL does not get +12V from the ECU as I assumed, rather the ECU sinks that pin to ground. Once I got it wired up correctly the CEL comes on for 5 seconds when I power on and then goes off.

I mounted the fuel cell today. Next I'll get the hoses plumbed, install some new sensors, torque down the valve cover, fill with fluids and crank her over :)
 
I'm so close. I got the fuel pump wired up and fuel lines connected today. My knock sensor and CAS came in today as they were broken (as in peices) on the donor car... Unfortunately I hit a bit of a snag with the CAS. The car the motor came out of is a '95 Talon but the block has a different VIN which IIRC is a '96 model. I knew there was a change to the CAS so at the parts store I confirmed the '95 and '96 CAS is the same part # so I had them order it. When I picked it up today it's clearly the old style (disk type) and what was in the car is the new style (barrel shape). The wiring harness that was in the car that I am using has has the old plug. I'm not sure if the car ran in this configuration. I brought home the new style sensor in hopes it will work with my ECU. Going to do some research on this and the pin out of the sensors so I can hack the wiring together.
 
This is so awesome! Cant wait to hear it run curious how it will sound! Are you on evom also? I think I may have followed some of your threads years ago?
 
CASwiring.gif
CASwiring95-96.gif



You seem beyond capable, i hope this can help.
There are a few ways you can modify the sensors to work.
in your video, do you have 2 sensors reading the mechanical timing? The oem one your asking about and a machined mounted one(exhaust cam)?

The loose wires^**
the blue one is the one that matters, it should have originally connected to the crank, or cam Gear to recieve a signal depends on the year i cant rememner.
Myself like many others use one sensor, to feed both signals to the ecu.
To trick it into reading mechanical time. Good luck.
 
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2ga (95/96) and 2gb (97/99) are identical wiring (different connnector), they both have black (ground), red (+) and blue in the center (signal) can be blue with red stripe or solid.

Just wire them same way here is the connector of a 2gb showing the wiring, the only thing is using the 97/99 sensor on a 95 ecu the firing order has to be reversed or just swap the center spark wires to the outer side and the outers to the center.
 
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Thanks a bunch guys! That is just what I need to know to get this worked out.

in your video, do you have 2 sensors reading the mechanical timing? The oem one your asking about and a machined mounted one(exhaust cam)?

Yes two sensors. The one in question on the exhaust "cam" and I also have the stock crank angle sensor that has the three wire triangular plug.

This is so awesome! Cant wait to hear it run curious how it will sound! Are you on evom also? I think I may have followed some of your threads years ago?

No, I am not on there. If you know someone that has done this with a DSM or similar I would love to see it.
 
This looks like a really cool engineering project. However, I see you have the oem cam gears and timing belt installed (where the gears rotate in the same direction), and the rotary valves rotate in opposite directions. In your last video I saw the gears located behind the cam gears when you were talking about the cam sensor. Do you rotary cams rotate opposite and the cam gears are just there to keep the bottom half timed?
 
Ahhhhh it never ends. So I'm not getting spark anymore. I was not getting a signal from the CPS originaly. So I took it out and there was some metallic debris stuck on it as it's magnetic. I cleaned everything off and it started working. And now nothing but sometimes I can get it to work but its really intermittent and there does not seem to be a pattern. I ordered a new one that should be in at the local parts store at 2pm today..
 
This looks like a really cool engineering project. However, I see you have the oem cam gears and timing belt installed (where the gears rotate in the same direction), and the rotary valves rotate in opposite directions. In your last video I saw the gears located behind the cam gears when you were talking about the cam sensor. Do you rotary cams rotate opposite and the cam gears are just there to keep the bottom half timed?

Yes I used the OEM cam gears and they are in the stock position relative to the block so I can use the OEM timing belt.

There are metal gears the OEM cam gears are connected to, these drive the rotary valves. This setup actually results in the rotary valves turning the same direction and speed the OEM cams would normally turn.

This video should help make sense of it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BOXxM_qBlCF/
 
Sweet. Good video. Somehow I didn't think about this before though. You have the cam position sensor attached to the exhaust cam when it should be attached to the intake cam. That will prevent start-up when you get to that point.
 
Yes I think that would be the case of not timed correctly. I would have put it on the intake side but the regulator on the fuel rail is in the way. The cam gears turn the same direction and I hopefully timed it correctly. If there is something I'm not understanding let me know.
 
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