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Posted by packinkimber45, Jun 25, 2008
Cylinder Head & Short Block - 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.
After you remove the old bearings you will want to clean the bearing surfaces thoroughly both on the block and the cap side. It might be a good idea to take the block to the machine shop to have it hot tanked to make sure it is totally void of all oil and contaminants. You may also want to get it line-honed. If you absolutley must, you can get away with just cleaning the bearing mating surfaces with some brake cleaner. You want to make sure these surfaces are absolutely clean. You do not want to lube the back side of the bearings. The bearings need to "stick" in place. This will not happen if there is oil/assembly lube between the bearing and the block/cap, rod/cap and you will spin a bearing.
When you are removing the bearing caps you will need to untorque in reverse order of install.
When removing the rod bearing caps the rod isnt going anywhere, you will have to physically push it out of the bore to remove it.
I recommend using assembly lube vs. engine oil when assembling parts. Its thicker and has a little more "stick" to it so as not just to run all over the place when torquing things down and will provide better lubrication on initial start up.
I believe I have addressed all your questions.
atleast until I get it. After I get that I am ordering a set of acl race series mains and rod bearings. I am not doing any recondition of the rods since I dont want to go thru all that. This started as doing tbelt/water pump/and oil pump. Funny how a simple job turns to almost a rebuild. Thanks again.