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Posted by rtrocket59, Aug 10, 2011
Appearance/Interior/Exterior - All interior and exterior tech discussions; body and paint, conversions, lighting, washing, waxing, etc. Probationary Members can post here.
so its ok to sand the actual carbon fiber? will it mess up the finished look at all?
Seems like this is what I'm going to do! And he just started working at a body repair shop so he thought he knew what he was doing haha
Log on here and ask the experts. First use their search, probably not the first person repairing carbon fibre mess ups.
If you Cut into the weave, yes it will damage the Carbon Fiber, but most gelcoat topcoats are thick, and you would really have to sand alot to get through it.
Looks like you are just randomly sanding a section at a time. Use a sanding block and form x"s in the sand scratches. Keep sanding until you can see the carbon fibre weave underneath then stop. What you looking for is uniformity. Looks like you've already hit the carbon fibre on the front of the hood.
I would start at the top of the hood and sand left to right, top to bottom until the weave straightens out and becomes uniform. Use plenty of water, slow and steady.
The front passenger side of the hood looks about right, still a little "wavy" in about the center part of that spot.
yes! i realized after that picture that i shouldnt do it randomly and started to sand with 800 grate and 2000. it looks a lot better but still needs mad work. ill clean the hood the way you described it, sand, than post some pictures on how it looks after that.
The haze should be uniform, darker/shiny spots shouldn't be there, if you are unsure drag a fingernail over the surface, if it leaves a mark chances are you're ok in that spot, if the line looks dashed, you still have clear on top.
Keep it at 800, I personally would have machine sanded with a DA at 400-500 grit, once you have that uniform haze, switch it up to 1200, then 1500, then 2k and above. You need to really finish out, and reduce the amount of sanding scratches.
if you are re clearing, you can quit at 1500 grit.
If you are actually thinking about polishing the gelcoat, then 3000 grit, and a good rubbing compound.
which one is better?
Clear would be best. With the uv protection sanded off, the gel coat will yellow right away. Also you will never be able to polish the gel coat to look shiny like clear would make it look.
Since You are Spraying Clear over an essentially "unpainted" surface there really isn't much of a "chemical" bond that takes place, which is probably why it flaked in the first place. expect to redo the clear in 2-3 years, or sooner depending on storage.
Soo don't use anything with acetone? And what's tsp?
Yep, Acetone will actually soften, and degrade Fiberglass, and gelcoats.
TSP is available, at any Lowes, Home depot, etc. Usually found in the paint department.
oh yeah, Tri Sodium Phosphate, also if mixed with Talcum powder into a thick paste removes oil from driveways.
@ Chrispy Hood Pins are recommended, since most of the time the hood latch is just "glassed" in, and through constant vibration, exposure tot he elements, delamination can occur, leading up to catastrophic failure. It doesn't happen to everyone, but a few dollars spent on hood pins, saves bodywork, and busted windshields later.
the thick line actually broke the carbon fiber and fiberglass underneath. but at both parts you can see the spiderweb of glaze cracking