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Street Build Red5.

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Found a good home for an old trans pivot balls.
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Made another heat shield, same process as before. But a bit cleaner this time.
This is how I figured I would secure it, since I don't have a welder.
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Decided to do motor first, to prevent damaging the painted bay.,.........
Still managed to scratch it up.


And finally I got real plumbing, no more leaks.
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Alot had taken place, I decided not to take to many pictures since alot of the work is the unsexy side of building..... cleaning , test fittings, ect......

I'm glad to have gotten the engine and trans in. Feel like a Weight has been lifted.

Now on to wiring.
 
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Looking great!

I'd be concerned with that oil drain, though. That rubber already looks a little kinked. If it shifts at all, it's going to pinch off the drain and you're going to have issues.
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I'm inching closer to firing her up.
I'm trying not to rush anything, since I'm so close.

I finally set up a dump pipe I used a flexible pipe and routed past any parts
(like the alternator).
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I once rebuilt my TB with [#7 o-ring] and it ended up leaking .... so I bought the metal TB shaft seals, took some work but got it in.

I rebuilt it with parts from my old, old, TB.
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I didn't like any of the options for a biss screw, yes even the OEM one.
So I made my own :D
Nylon nut grinded and super heated + hammered into place!!

So far no leaks, haven't tested under pressure.
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It really came in handy, allowed me to dial my idle in perfectly.




I set up my idle with maf really quick!!
To bad that's the extent my abilities .

Need to connect SD and dial that in. Still trying to learn how to use maf for that part.
 

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Congratulations! It's been a long time coming. I like your creativity, e.g. the biss screw. With your attention to detail, you should have great confidence in this build.

The fuse box location is a natural spot. My only concern would be for the additional heat it will be feeling from the drivetrain. True, the relay performance should not be affected, but you might want to look at insulating the bottom and/or sides of the fuse box with some thin, thermal material just for margin.

I know that there are always a hundred other details to finish after an engine build, but we look forward to seeing it after the bay is complete.
 
^ like always; I appreciate the kind words.
You're right, it wouldn't hurt to add a little protection fortunately I have plenty of thermal blanket and sheet metal left.
Yeah the bis screw was a win it made adjusting the TB super quick.

I was hoping all of this detail would pay off......... so far so good
 
This is just a small update, I've been pretty busy doing other work around the house so I haven't spent as much time on the eclipse as I would have liked.

I've been dealing with non-functioning fuel gauge, besides that I made my own turbo intake pipe I think it looks pretty good unfortunately I will need to weld ports since I cannot attach a catch can.

Pulled her out of the carport to clean off the cobwebs.
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I ordered one way check valves, as recommended on this site by season members and, i'm happy i did.

I was suspicious since my idle would surge when i would pump the brakes. it turned out that i did not have a check valve in my booster line (news to me)
I tested the oem pvc valve at 20psi and it held, but at 30psi it leaked plenty. so i also installed a intake manifold vac breather in place of the pvc valve and also a check valve in between. The intake manifold held up to 40 psi both check valves sealed strong and my nylon biss/nut set up held perfectly!!!

I also used a useless catch-can and made a coolant reservoir with it.

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Any updates?
Thanks for the interest!
I have been short on time, due to my No.1 Excuse:"School".

Two substantial changes have taken place.
1. I found a trailer hitch for Red5, some one was selling it as a hitch for a different car and thus no one knew what the hitch was really for, not even the seller. But it looked to familiar and after some photo comparisons i made the hour drive and only spend 50 buck.'
I need a small trailer to aid in some of the home remodeling i've done. "renting trucks" got old.
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2. I made another crud "duct" for the intercooler to radiator and i bought a 160F thermostat, it turns out i had a 195F in there this whole time....
This plus a bit of "offset" in link and now with the bumper on and the A/C on i stay at 190F +/-.
Which is a big deal since i have been combating temp issues for a long time in this thread.



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Ive recently tuned her for cruise and moderate driving, she is steady on her A/F ratio. Will continue to break her in for now, but as we know......... She wasnt built to be mild.

Gst^ That SD is very nice to use ;)
 
*update.... The faster i go the hotter she gets....:idontknow:
Front bumper/ intercooler must still be to restricting..
214F Max @ 60mph, on today's trip to the dump.

With today's load + Trailer weight she pulled 1,000Lbs.
And she did it with ease, means a lot since she is only granny tuned.

She is not a daily just yet, but she has upgraded to the family hauler / work truck... LOL.

Lasty, i knew the camera would come in handy since i cant see the trailer without it.
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Possibly get rid of the ac condenser which means bye bye ac. I have the same fmic as you with the front bumper cut a little for the fmic, mishimoto 3 row radiator with 2 fans in front of the radiator blowing into the radiator from the time I start my car until I shut it off and mishimoto thermostat. I just got mine back on the road just over a month ago so I haven't seen any Tennessee hot Temps really or driven it without the front bumper. I have experienced some Temps around 190. I don't have ac, so no condenser and I don't have any ducting like you do.
 
It's the half rad, dude. Likely not enough surface area for the little amount of airflow you're getting. Most cars I've ever seen using a half rad that weren't drag only cars ran hot with them.

Is your turbo setup restricting your ability to run a full size rad?

Love the trailer!
 
Possibly get rid of the ac condenser which means bye bye ac. I have the same fmic as you with the front bumper cut a little for the fmic, mishimoto 3 row radiator with 2 fans in front of the radiator blowing into the radiator from the time I start my car until I shut it off and mishimoto thermostat. I just got mine back on the road just over a month ago so I haven't seen any Tennessee hot Temps really or driven it without the front bumper. I have experienced some Temps around 190. I don't have ac, so no condenser and I don't have any ducting like you do.

Ill Never ever remove the A/C... Ever, this is Florida. Iraq can be much cooler than this state when you factor in humidity

.
It's the half rad, dude. Likely not enough surface area for the little amount of airflow you're getting. Most cars I've ever seen using a half rad that weren't drag only cars ran hot with them.

Is your turbo setup restricting your ability to run a full size rad?

Love the trailer!
Yes! a full rad doesn't allow for any fan of any size.
I run cooler with a half rad then a full rad.. This is documented on this thread.


I don't know if 214F is to hot from stock temps but its the best its been its entire life in my possession.
It idles at 190F.

I love the trailer too:p.
I feel so special, LOL i get a lot of attention on the road.

I have a spare hood im going to do some venting with to test, then ill look for a spare bumper to try and make a nice looking ram air hole thing, if that works i may consider doing it to my nice painted bumper.
 
Another thing to look at is the coolant overflow you are using, doesn't look like it's setup to pull coolant back into the system.
 

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